Marine Engine Mod Apk
Jennifer Leos
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Change the camshaft, exhaust manifold and the carburetors, then remove the marine bellhousing and install into a 2002. That's what I would do or if your really ambitious build a m12 turbo f1 engine and the car to go with it.
The m10 made a really great marine engine the down fall is BMW insisted on making there own leg (the out drive part) and it wasn't up to the job parts are few and far between, I have seen a Volvo leg adapted to the engine but the owner said it wasn't cheap.
Yes, and I have also asked for manifold from many other places in Europe and Australia without any luck. It seems that the only option is to do it myself. The German Boat Forum has some good instructions and guide lines with pictures of stainless steel self-made exhaust systems for BMW marine engines. But, of course, buying a part would be much easier.
EPA has adopted exhaust emission standards for marine diesel engines installed in a variety of marine vessels ranging in size and application from small recreational vessels to tugboats and large ocean-going vessels.
A couple of years ago we started to notice that we were getting much more soot on the transom from the exhaust than we liked. Then last year we started to see un-burned fuel on the water aft of the boat and coating the dinghy. Clearly all was not well even though the engine continued to start easily and run reliably, as it always had.
We pulled the injectors and had them rebuilt. We pulled the injection pump and had it calibrated and rebuilt. Still the problem got worse. Then we started to lose top-end RPM, a sure symptom of loss of power.
A vague bell went off in my memory: When the engine was new we had a problem with fumes in the engine room. I measured blow-by at that time and had even written the result in an old log, which, miracle of miracles, we were able to find. The reading: 8 inches of water. At the time, I had called Cummins North East (CNE), the dealer that sold me the engine, to ask about this reading and was told that it was not a problem and that the maximum for a new engine was 12 inches. But the Cummins document we found last year seems to indicate (it is not as clear as one would like) that 3 inches is the maximum for this engine!
All very good points, thanks. Clearly you are knowledgeable about engines and you are with the majority of experts that we consulted on the rebuild. Next post we will look at the whole rebuild or replace decision.
The engine was checked out by Billings Diesel and Marine, a master Cummins dealer and one of the best in the business. They confirmed that the cylinders were out of spec and that the engine was toast unless rebuilt. And clearly a rebuild was not worth it. See the rest of the posts in this series for why.
After the problems I had with my Cummins and the way Cummins, and their distributor treated me, I would not buy one of their engines at any price. You might want to look at Perkins/Cat or John Deer. And all of the modern electronic diesels have about the same fuel efficiency, regardless of brand.
You say that you believe the cylinders were not bored out correctly during manufacturing and that they were lemon shaped. Interesting. I was wondering which side of the cylinders were out of round. Would this not effect the power stoke and increase wear? Would the rings still rotate under operation? Im suprised if the cylinders were out of round that you would not see issues with the power cylinder componets when u completed a teardown. You say you have seen an increase in blowby pressure from engine installation but no wear on the components. Other casuses of high blowby are injector washers and turbo failure from the others pointed out. If the cause was power cylinder related you would have high oil consumption and your oil analysis would also highlight issues.
Having said that, I have long ago moved on from this. Even at the time, there was no point in starting a big forensic examination on my dime since Cummins had already told me to go pound sand, as it were.
Thanks for the thoughts. I think there is a huge difference in quality, and probably distributor service attitude, between the Cummins B and C series. I suspect that your engines were C series, and mine was a B.
When I'm motoring, I like to check the engine room every hour or so. Having a peek at the beast in the bilge will often alert me to something wrong, long before it becomes a major issue or one of the alarms goes off.
My boat has two helm stations, one at the forward end of the main saloon and another on the flybridge. In good weather, I like to operate the boat from the flybridge, or as my family calls it, up top. This is great, but the helmsman is farther removed from the noise, smells, and other quirks of the engine room, so spotting something amiss is just that much harder.
I have a diesel engine, but if you have a gasoline motor, any electrical appliance that you use in the engine room, including a camera, needs to be ignition protected as per American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) and U.S. Coast Guard guidelines.
In essence this project is fairly simple. The hardest and most time-consuming part is likely to be running the cables neatly, and that was certainly true in my case. All boats are different, but the principles are the same. Here's how I went about installing an engine room camera on my boat.
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