Film Gloves
Carmen Kalua
In an effort to preserve the physical condition of your slide film, hand protection should be worn to prevent transferring oils and fingerprints to the film surface. These cotton gloves are an excellent, re-usable solution for safe film handling.
I've been trying to find gloves that work with PPF forever. My hands are trashed, it's even worse now that winter is here. Nothing I've found works so far. I have lotion bottles all over my dresser from trying different ones........I look like a very lonely guy.
I do a ton of PPF. Lots of RV's and good amount of cars. Lately have been working with my Doctor on why my Liver Enzyme levels are too high. We have done Ultrasounds, countless bloodwork and ruled out any meds and beer as culprit. I asked him this week if working with ISO Alcohol daily to the point of my hands looking like prunes would have anything to do with it. He said for sure, enough ISO alcohol absorption could cause elevated enzyme levels in people sensitive to other things like acetaminophen (Tylenol). So he told me to not even sniff or use any ISO Alcohol for 3 weeks to see if it clears up my numbers. So I am trying to chase down the correct gloves myself asap.
Like most people I have discovered my hands are incredibly sensitive to any chemicals that may get on them during processing. However, I think my hands are also sensitive to the latex gloves I have been using as well. My fingers have been pretty gnarly lately as a result.
The only time I use/used Protective Gloves is when dealing with some of the more 'dangerous' Toners, and then, I still use Tongs. Maybe the more toxic 'dangerous' Toners are not available now, I don't know.
If you choose to use Tongs but are concerned about splashes of chemicals, then I use the Kirkland brand that Hector mentioned for other jobs: they're a thin, tactile, inexpensive glove that will offer some protection from splashes, but, I still wouldn't be jumping my pinkies into the soup.
Fwi, some developing agents, especially the color developers, are considered to be skin sensitizers. This means that someone might handle them for a long period, perhaps years, with no reaction. Then suddenly, one day, they have a severe allergic reaction - red itchy hands with broken skin, and the severe allergy never goes away (the skin heals, but any further exposure sets the reaction off right away).
I think that metol, a b&w developing agent, MIGHT be a sensitizer (but nowhere near as bad as the color developers). For some detailed info look up the MSDS (material safety data sheets) for the specific developer you are using. It will have sections on what's in it, what are possible hazards, and protective equipment, etc. Keep in mind that the MSDS tend to go overboard on the side of safety; to get a sense of this, try looking up the MSDS for some things you are familiar with, for example, water or table salt, etc.
I was just thinking - maybe... some people use their hands, fingers in the chemical trays because they use (for example) a 10x8 tray for 10x8 printing. I don't do that. I use 24x 20 trays (maybe a bit bigger, I think) for 10x8 prints, hence 'sloshing around' is easy, using a pair of tongs.
I've never been able to print well with gloves-I lose too much tactile feel with them. I keep towels next to my trays and rinse/wipe my fingers frequently. The only time I really suck it up and use gloves is when I'm using stuff that's especially toxic(I'm not handling a permanganate/sulfuric acid bleach bare handed) or am working with something that will stain.
I'm a chemist in my day job, and can often spend all day wearing gloves. Admittedly "danger" threshold for chemicals is different than it is for many people, and maybe that's not the best idea, but basically I spend enough time with gloves on during the day that I don't want to come home and wear them in the darkroom.
My father retired years ago as an industrial photographer from a steel company here. He and a buddy talked a boss into letting them try a few photographs to convince the higher-ups of the need for a photo dept, it worked and they had a great time.
Agree. 'Good Quality' tongs might be hard to find nowadays, I didn't think of that. I haven't looked lately. For up to 11x14 paper mine have good grip, They're stainless steel, flat rounded ends bent at 15 degrees about 1/2" from the end, they've a really strong spring. Probably about 20 years old. No idea what they cost me.
Tongs work better if the tray is one size larger than your largest print. It's easier to get them under the print when there's more space on the side. I used 11x14" trays for 8x10's, and occasionally for 11x14 prints. I even did a few 16x20" prints by looping it under a wooden dowel on the diagonal, keeping it wet by moving it back and forth.
I have spent this morning refiling various strips of film, from the filing sheets supplied by my previous processor in Lyon into new Hama sheets which have hole punched strips at the side for going in a ring binder (the supplied ones didn't). I have been using Kenro film handling gloves, which are supposed to be anti-static but like pretty much everything I have bought that was branded Kenro, they are useless and seem to actually attract dust and static. This makes the film strips nearly impossible to insert into the very flimsy and floppy Hama crystal paper filing sheets, as the static makes the film strips stick to the filing sheets
2) I would like to find better filing sheets than the Hama crystal paper ones (available in UK). The material of the Hama sheets is very floppy and translucent rather than transparent. It is sometimes quite difficult to make out what is on the film strips, especially B&W negatives. I would prefer transparent sheets with a punched hole strip at the side. Also the Hama sheets don't have stepped back and front papers, where you could then leave a small amount of each film strip showing to make extraction easier. With the Hama, both the front and rear paper are cut flush at the end of the slot, so you have to scrabble about inside each slot to grasp the film to pull it out. The only ones I can find for sale in the UK are Kenro acetate ones (see my feelings about Kenro above) or the Hama Glassine/Crystal ones. Does acetate deteriorate and stick to the film strips over a few years?
Another vote for Printfile products, I use them for 35mm and 120. I know you mentioned sourcing them in the UK but they are available from B&H in the USA: -REG/Print_File_PF357B25_Archival_Storage_Page_for.html?sts=pi
Recommending gloves is risky because the last thing I want is to disappoint
a valued associate. With caution I recommend that you choose a conductive glove
(as you mentioned) that can be washed. I prefer gloves that do not have a textured
grip area, and instead I put finger cots over the fingers I wish to make non-slip.
It really helps when sliding negatives into the filing sheets. Often the finger cots
are all I need - no gloves.
The technicians at my workplace also worked on a grounded anti-static mat
and wore long sleeves to avoid skin-dust. (Skin is where a lot of our indoor
dust comes from.)
So, keywords anti-static, conductive, washable and dissipative finger cots.
I have bought Kaiser in the past from RK in the UK but just before I came out to France in April I tried to order some more and they said they were having order problems. That is when I bought the 100 pack of Hama sleeves. I think RK were the only people in the UK who carried Kaiser.
They would need to offer something special as they are double the price of Printfile sleeves but about the same price as Panodia Cel 135 sleeves in France. If they are thicker plastic that would be good as it makes inserting and removing strips much easier.
"tiny" indeed I always think the X-pan was modelled on that camera, probably not but then all rangefinders have the same genes. If you only need a few let me know I have plenty I don't shoot enough 120 these days.
Also in support of the PrintFile archival foils. I use them for 35 mm and 4x5" large format negatives. Here in the US the 35 mm archive foil comes in two versions - fitting five or six frames in one row. I prefer the five-row letter-size format since they fit into a standard folder. Issue here is that for about 36 exposures, they never fit all in one foil which would be the case with the six frame row ones.
These non-woven shoe covers protect against dirt, grease, grime, and light liquid splashes. They are constructed with low-lint white, premium, 55-gram microporous PE film-laminated material that is breathable.
Cotton Gloves are perfect for handling film and prints, particularly during scanning, print or mounting. Made of unbleached cotton, these lightweight gloves will help protect your film and prints from oils, dirt and chemicals.
Cotton Gloves Large Pair are perfect for handling film and prints, particularly during scanning, printing or mounting. Made of unbleached cotton, these lightweight gloves will help protect your film and prints from oils, dirt and chemicals.
Continuing his tradition of art meets horror, Brewster decided to film the movie in black and white. The result is a noir-horror experience that evokes some of the same feelings as Fritz Lang and Alfred Hitchcock.
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I continue to celebrate the wonder that is Jamie Scott Gordon, who portrays the psychologist, Finn Galloway. He brings such life, turmoil, and darkness to each of his roles and he carries these films, even when part of an ensemble.
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