I use the slider pitch and roll sensitivity if needed its a good place to start however I have run into a quad that would not tune well and VTOL quick tune fixed the issue. I recommend it. It works for Quads and VTOL even in simulations like Realflight.
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So if I turn off Overrun and off Closed Loop, then cruise around for about an hour with auto tune on, will this be good for my cruise map? Or do I have to have someone in the passenger seat and make me go to every cell?
QuickTune has resulted in driveable cars but I stopped using it after realizing the car rolls way too much on default settings, which means the sway bars and possibly the springs/dampers are way too soft.
QuickTune has resulted in driveable cars but I stopped using it after realizing the car rolls way too much on default settings, which means the sway bars and possibly the springs/dampers are way too soft
Have a look in this thread for proof, starting at pg 151 a guy named TridentCoyote (PTG Greeksniper) tested out various tunes with my QuickTune tunes being among the fastest. All my tunes are straight out of QuickTune with no adjustments whatsoever.
Thanks for the other recommendations. I will try them. I just wanted something quick and easy to use on the phone. I know cars but not enough to get the in-depth tuning stuff. This user wrote a decent guide here (third link): _postst71564_CW-s-Tuning-Guide--Calc---NEW-MOBILE-WEB-APP---Available.aspx
QuickTune is a free software tool for parameter configuration of NOVUS controllers and indicators. With its clean interface, any lay or advanced user can friendly access and modify all device functions for proper configuration. Designed for easy and quick commissioning, it provides diagnosis and monitoring resources to field technicians. More than a software, QuickTune is a tool. Furthermore, QuickTune offers the main features to meet most users and profile needs in the industry.
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For anyone struggling with setups here is a handy tool that I use. It's a setup calculator based in Microsoft Excel. Simply fill in the columns on the left side (which are based on the stock specifications of your car) and the program will generate a baseline setup for you. From there you can test your setup and then let the program make changes for you (read the thread below for instructions.) I'm no setup guru, but this program is what I rely on for my setups. If any one has questions I'd be happy to help out.
3. If the car needs major changes (way tight or way loose) then change the value of "Suspension Level." Higher values (3,4) tighten the car, lower values (1,2) loosen the car. Changes here make pretty big handling changes to the car, so only use this if you need to make a big change to the chassis. Up or down one value is about all I've ever done.
4. If the car's overall handling feels good but you're having trouble entering or exiting corners then you make minor changes by changing the Corner Entry/Exit settings. For corner entry a positive number loosens the car and a negative number tightens the car. The effects are reversed for Corner Exit. These settings make minor changes to the chassis, so this is essentially where you work to fine-tune your setup. You'll spend more time tweaking these setting than you will changing the Suspension Level.
Here's some advice: always keep notes before you make a big change to your setup. Once you start tinkering it's easy to screw up what might have been a good setup, and if you didn't write it down then you're back to square-one. Also, pay attention to how the Excel sheet changes the values based upon your input. It will help you learn how the settings actually work so that you can make minor adjustments on your own. The program is good, but it's not perfect.
Both Indy and I using it and all of my tunes I have posted were generated using this tool. Its not perfect but it does provide a really good baseline tune to start with and offers some flexibility in adjustments.
When I run a Quick Tune, the abundances for mass 69, 219, 502 are half compare to Autotune. What is the reason? Do I need to run a calibration after every Quick Tune because the Quick Tune will save the tune parameters to atune file.
If your acquisition method is set to run the EMV in GAIN mode, the gain curve should be nearly the same as it was and the system will adjust for any differences in the EMV. You could also run QuickTune and then manually change the tune file EMV to the value it was before the QuickTune and save it. Or, you could manually run the mass axis and peak width portions of the autotune and save the tune file.
The tune on most clean operating MSDs is amazingly stable. Every full tune can adjust every parameter so the tune values may look different but that's because the algorithm always adjusts them. It could be that all you need to do is to do File, Generate Report. This turns on the PFTBA and give a report using the loaded tune file parameters but gets new data - new tune ion peaks and the spectrum. You must manually look at it to know if it's acceptable before using it.
Also, the amount of time the PFTBA valve is on will change the abundances. It starts higher and tapers off over time before stabilizing as the vacuum equalizes between the chamber and the PFTBA vial through the very small restrictor inside the PFTBA valve. After the valve turns off, that pressure will re-equilibrate over time and the process starts again.
The script slowly increases the relevant gains until it detects an oscillation. It then reduces the gains by 60% and moves onto the next gain.Once all the gains have been tuned the tune completes and the user can decide to save or discard the new gains.
be sure that you have prepared the vehicle for tuning by setting up parameters discussed here: Setting the Aircraft Up for Tuning. Also to assure the best tune, setup the noise notch filtering, see Managing Gyro Noise with the Dynamic Harmonic Notch Filters. You may run QuickTune without this step to obtain initial fine tune, see Manual tuning of Roll and Pitch if the vehicle cant do an initial hover stably. Then setup the filters and retune for best results.
If necessary reposition the vehicle using the RC transmitter. This will temporarily pause tuning and restore the original gains. Tuning will resume a few seconds after the RC sticks are returned to their center position
a premium tune may not do anything for you if you don't have a ram air filter or cold-air intake. also steeda does have 83 and 89 octane tunes. Not to mention the tune and sct unit will set you back $400. If you throw that money at it, fork out the extra $200 and get the CAI or Short Ram air filter.
K&N Air Filter. Shouldn't run you more than $50 and will increase your airflow. When I first dropped one in my car it ran real rich until the computer adjusted. Really not going to give you much of a performance or MPG boost, but for $50 what do you want.
Talk to Matt or Gus at Steeda. I have a 2011 Sport and I installed there Ford Fusion Sport Cold Air Intake with the 93 tune along with there TB spacer and noticed an immediate increase in torque and horsepower. Thanks Gus for the great service
The 87 Tune Sleeveless and Sleeve both did wonders for me. I did have the 91 available but I had no problem with the 87, I had extra passing power and even had to be careful with more Wheel Spin at WOT.
The Steeda intake uses the same parts as the stock intake system to pull air from outside the engine. I saw a few dyno sheets/runs of guys with the I take and tune pull higher numbers and better times on the track.
I've datalogged my car on the stock and Steeda CAI. IAT was +/-3 degrees with the same weather. It seals with the hood and uses the "ram air" piece from the stock air box. Not to mention, without the sleeve, the MAF housing is larger, flowing more air.
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