Testors Decal Paper Instructions
Nguyet Mahrenholz
The big thing is whether you are making decals with only dark graphics, or whether you need light colors or white in the design. The later are quite problematic, while dark colors may easily be done on clear decal paper. Light colored and white designs require white backed decal paper, which can be a bear to use.
I've only used the Testors paper with the bonding spray. I've found a couple things. I can't get really dark blacks (trying to do aircraft side numbers). I tried printing on a photo setting, which looked great until I applied the bonding spray, then the ink bled a little at the edges so I had a purple haze around the edge of the numbers. One suggestion I got was to print 2 sets and just put one on top of the other which seems to darken the final product considerably. I've also found that I have to apply about 3 heavier coats of the bonding spray or the decals just fall apart.
I have found printing inkjet decals is very sensitive to brand and even model of printer. I ended up buying a cheap HP printer just for decals. My good printer is an Epson, and I had a lot of trouble with Epson inks. The printer I bought was fifty bucks, and the store agreed to take it back if it did not work with decal paper, as long as I brought it back in two weeks. Tried it the day I bought it and it worked fine on the paper I regularly used, so it is a keeper. But again, matching ink and paper can be a problem.
I haven't had any real issues with the paper. The program that comes in the testor's starter kit is ok, but if you want to make your own designs you need to buy the upgrade. If you have microsoft word you can easily create a document with the same size specs as the sheet. My only problem with the paper is that I tend to save up my decal printing needs and then when I fill the digital "page" I print out the sheet. Go VERY easy on the developer. Use a few light coats to ensure the ink doesn't run.
I have a question on this Don. Surething recommends using only a light coat over the ink, but the problem is, my ink still dissolves. I'm using the clear decal paper for a dark graphic. Should I put the bonder on heavier despite what they say?
Scott LeitnerI have a question on this Don. Surething recommends using only a light coat over the ink, but the problem is, my ink still dissolves. I'm using the clear decal paper for a dark graphic. Should I put the bonder on heavier despite what they say?
You need to run some tests. Some clear coats themselves will dissolve inks and make fuzzy edges on the design. Other clearcoat/ink combos will look fine until you get them in water. So make a test pieces, and spray it with a thin coat of sealer. Then inspect it. If it has fuzzied up, you need a different combination of ink and clearcoat. If it is okay after clearcoat, put it in water. if it starts to dissolve then, you need more clearcoat. I still recommend a thin first coat of clearcoat, followed later by a heavier second coat. Getting the right clearcoat for a given ink is a challenge, but once you find it you are on your way.
What settings are you using on your printer? I found that if I told the printer I was using photo paper (or anything glossy) that I had problems with the ink getting fuzzy when I sprayed the bonder on. I actually had the best luck using the normal paper, normal quality setting and printing the decal twice, and then using a toothpick to put one right on top of the other and line it up. I was doing names on the nose of a 1/48 aircraft, so they weren't that large and it worked fine.
I find I have to wait at least a full 24 hours- two days is even better- before clear coating. I happened to read the instructions on some photo paper (Epson) and they recommended not handling images until at least two days. Even then, I spray a very light coat of clearcoat first and let it dry. I then go back and put on a second coat.
I have used inkjet printers that I could not clearcoat the printing ever- the inks dissolved in any clear coat I tried. I relegated those printers to non-decal work. Decal making does require a good match between ink and paper.
That's good to know since I already destroyed some. I also use ink jet vinyl. pretty thin. Works good if you can completely trim around the decal. Saved me when I ruined the Star Trek Bird of Prey (TOS).
I used to use Microscale Laser Decal Paper on my company's Xerox printer and loved it, but I don't have that option anymore. At Hobby Lobby they have this 'Water Transfer Decal Paper and I'm thinking of trying it. I used the Testor's Inkjet version years ago and the ink reacted like water on oil. Has anyone used this brand before?
i have not used that brand, but have used the testors with no problem and many more brands and find them to be all about the same..did you clear coat the decal after the ink dried ? if you did not then that was the problem..all ink jet decal paper has to be clear coated after printed.
I clear coated when I used the Microscale laser paper with the laser copier, because the ink can be scratched off easily. But when using the Testor's Inkjet paper in the home printer, it wouldn't even print on the paper. The ink just bubbled up.
There should be a setting in your printer software for different types of paper. I use a Canon inkjet photo printer and the inkjet decal papers I've used specify that the printer needs to be set for glossy photo paper.
That sounds backwards. Laser decal paper just has a "plain" decal film, where ink jet decal paper has decal film which is coated with ink absorbing coating to prevent the liquid ink from beading up. The problem as described states that the ink beads up on the paper surface (it is not being absorbed).
Not really - I have an Alps printer for making decals and I use laser paper. But I do know that ink jet decal paper has special coating to absorb ink. I think the best advice here was to try different type of paper setting as the amount of ink printed changes depending on the type of paper. I also seem to recall reading that some ink jet printers do not work well for decal printing.
I've used Testors inkjet decal paper since 2009 ... I've never had a problem ... printer setting on glossy photo paper ...
2 to 3 light coats of Testors decal Bonder spray let dry overnight and they are ready to apply ... I use Automotive lacquer
on my models after the decals have been applied ... ??
I too have made lots of inkjet decals. 1st with Testors paper and then with aftermarket paper off ebay. If I set my print quality to "normal" the prints are a bit light in coverage. If I set my print quality to "best" then the color saturation is quite acceptable. The only exception is if I use "best" for black only decals, I get the beading you are getting. A word of advise, let the ink dry 24 hours before attempting to clear them. Hit them too soon and the ink may run. I learned that on some red printed decals that made the white background pink. Testors Decal Bonder (9200?) works fantastic as a clear overcoat. Unfortunately, it is no longer available. I think it is an enamel glosscoat. I have yet to experiment with substitutes.
I just bought a packet of six decal papers from Testors. Pull out the instructions and they're in every language but English. What do I have to know to use this paper? I bought a 6 pack of white paper.
Basically, you print your design to the highest quality possible, like printing a photo. Let it dry completely, for a couple days actually is best. Spray it with some sort of sealer... I'm sorry I can't remember what to use... Let that dry for a couple days. Cut it, dunk it, stick it... That's really all there is to it. It does take a little trial and error, but if I can do it, anybody can. I'll try to hunt up what to use as a sealer tonight after I get home.
Testors decal sealer smells, looks and acts just like good old Testors Dullcote (flat clear lacquer). Which is probably exactly what it is. For making decals, I've used the Testors decal sealer, Dullcote, and also Krylon's Flat Clear Acrylic. All worked well.
Another tip, black seems to "crack" when the ink dries. Thin lines or lettering doesn't do it so bad, but large black areas do. To help avoid this, try making large black areas either a very dark blue or a very dark gray. I know this may sound weird, but that slight shift in color to a blue or gray seems to eliminate the cracking issue.
I have used both the Evan Designs and the Micro-Mark inkjet decal papers. While I thought I was getting good results with the Evan Designs paper, the results I achieved with the Micro-Mark paper were incredible! I have not tried decal paper for laser printers as I do not own a color laser printer. I don't know if it is true that laser prints are waterproof and don't require a sealer. Keep in mind that most decals need to be set in place with decal solvents such as Micro Set, Micro Sol or Solvaset. These solvents may still disturb even "waterproof" laser prints. As it is just a matter of spraying a light coat of a clear finish over the decal, I would apply the clear coat regardless.
I've not ordered it directly from them as the hobby shops in my area usually carry it in stock, but I've used their laser product for years with an ALPS printer and have been very happy with the results.
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