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Nguyet Mahrenholz

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Aug 3, 2024, 12:58:29 AM8/3/24

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I bought a new replacement battery from the HP Parts Surfer. While it's better than my old one, I feel like I should be getting more battery life out of it as this new one lasts around 2 to 2 and a half hours. I've seen a lot of forums talking about uninstalling and reinstalling battery drivers and many people respond saying that it has improved their battery life. However, every forum I see has a different set of steps to doing it, even from official HP representatives. They all pertain to deleting "Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery" and restarting the computer, but some go as far as removing the battery or holding the power button for a certain amount of time. I just want to know if there's a specific way of doing it.

I followed the steps, and I assume it worked because the battery component reappeared in the device manager. I'm not sure if it improved my battery life like many other people have claimed, but thank you for the help.

This section describes battery-specific entries in the INF file. For more information about creating and distributing INF files and installing drivers, see Creating an INF File and INF File Sections and Directives.

The INF Models section specifies the PnP hardware ID of the battery (shown as pnpid in the example). If the device is enumerated through ACPI, this section must also specify the EISA-style ID (shown as acpidevnum). For information about creating these IDs, see the Advanced Configuration and Power Interface Specification, which is available through the ACPI / Power Management website.

The INF DDInstall.Services section includes an INF AddService directive that specifies additional information about the battery driver. A battery driver's INF file should indicate that the driver is a kernel driver that uses normal error handling and starts during initialization of the operating system. Battery drivers specify the load order group Extended Base.

I actually discovered that I can use my UPS to do it. So my machine is connected to a "smart" UPS which has a communication port (not sure what the cord type is) which then you connect to your computer using USB.

This is tricky to pull off. The on-battery/on-power flag is provided by ACPI in the BIOS, and the flags are handled in the kernel as part of the ACPI driver. Near as I can figure, lying to this driver layer is not exposed in any way. However, it does look like Microsoft has a discrete device for the battery and AC adapters themselves, so a special AC Adapter driver may allow you manually select your power state. I don't know of one, but it is a place to look. Alternately, a special 'power development' ACPI layer may be lurking somewhere.

I thought I read that I could see the battery level of the Ikea shades using the "Ikea Window Blinds" driver. Where.
Also how do you fill this information out?
Thanks
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It looks like you are missing lots of information under "Current States" (top right of your screenshot). This could be because you just added the device(s?) and they haven't reported anything yet, or it could be a communication problem between the device and your hub.

If you just switched to this driver, try a "Configure." If that doesn't change anything (it might not but is normally a good idea after switching drivers), try a "Refresh," which should try to fetch this data. If nothing changes there after that, I'd lean towards "problem." The first thing you could to there is leave everything in place on Hubitat (e.g., don't delete the device) but just reset and re-pair it to see if that helps.

If not, blinds are often in odd locations that your hub or Zigbee routers ("repeaters") may have trouble reaching. In this case, you may want to look into general network troubleshooting of making sure you have a solid mesh, etc. Hard to say more without knowing more in this case, but that's where I'd start given the likely possibilities if nothing else helps.

Well, I have refreshed, I have hit configure, I do now see infomation in the current status section on the right, still no battery status, and my Commands are different. I am missing "Hard Open", "Off" and "On". I can open and close with the app. I can open and close and setup routines with Alexa. Oh, and I added 2 more shades and everything shows the same thing. Looked on phone and desktop. Any ideas. It is the battery I really need to see. Thanks

Good Idea. I just added the driver you linked me to. I then went and looked and I had 2 drivers with the exact same name, by different people. So I took all 4 shades, changed them to generic shades controller. Deleted both drivers I had. Readded the one you linked, changed the shades to it, updated, refreshed etc.... and BINGO. YEAH. Thank you.

I recently upgraded my Intel Evo laptop to Windows 11, and I'm facing an issue with rapid battery drain. Even with minimal usage and power-saving settings enabled, my laptop's battery seems to be draining much faster compared to when I was using Windows 10. I have checked for updates and installed the latest drivers, but the problem persists.

I have tried adjusting power settings, disabling unnecessary background processes, and reducing screen brightness, but the battery life is still not up to par. I primarily use my laptop for work and need it to last throughout the day without needing frequent charging.

Happens to my camaro. This is my fix. Push and hold down button. Hold for 3 seconds when fully open, then pres and hold up till fully closed and hold for 3 seconds. Should clear

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GMC Service guy is not telling me that they're sure its a Body Control Module issue. Getting low voltage readings through the module even though the battery is fully charged. They've now got a new one on order to replace the one in the truck.

I have run into this many of times on these vehicles since i am the electrical specialist at our dealership . Unfortunately I can't see the vehicle to test it so I am not going to say it is not a body control module failure. Because it absolutely could be. Do I think it is? No. But again I can't test it personally so I will not say they are definitely wrong. I will explain to you though why I believe it is wrong and what I think you should look for in case the BCM does not fix it. And please, If the BCM fixes it let us know. I really enjoy these types of problems and am interested.

The BCM uses voltage to keep it's memory (this is why it could be a bad BCM) When it falls below a certain voltage the Capacitors in the BCM discharge and this sends it into a relearn mode (telling you to roll the windows up and down, ect..) This is why I don't think the BCM is the problem.

I believe you have a voltage drop problem on one of your battery cables. This is actually an easy test and don't take long. Do a loaded voltage drop test across your battery cables. You need less than 0.1 volt across all of them even though 0.2 volts is acceptable.

If your voltage drop is higher on any of those cables or across the battery block (which is where I normally find the problem. Either a lug that's barely loose or a crack in the plate) replace it. The reason it's coming up with this is because during cranking the voltage drop is higher than normal. If you have (let's say) 2 volts of drop during cranking that means on a perfect battery your BCM would be seeing 10.8 volts and discharge the capacitors causing your vehicle to go into relearn mode.

Here is the catch. Your vehicle isn't doing it every day (which makes me think it is the battery block again..loose lug or crack) so you will not see the full drop. But anything higher than 0.20 needs to be replaced. This will fix your problem IF the BCM doens't fix it. Because again... I can't test the BCM myself. I just have my doubts about it... But it is possible.

If you need me to explain anything else, how to do the test or ect... Just quote me and ask so I get the message on my phone. If not i check here every few days. The Ad's are killing me and I don't really like to come here much anymore.