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Chara Dagres
I have upgraded to windows 10 back in july(?) when it came out. For a couple of months it worked just perfectly fine. After a while probably because of some updates my ethernet stopped to operate normally, in a nutshell randomly but really often and on high download speeds simply stops workin.. i mean by that that my network becomes restricted ...running troubleshootin solves the problem 9/10 times. If i dont run troubleshooting (resetting the adapter) the device manager shows an error "Code 10" in the device's description.
So i started to read after the problem. Ive found many similar problems but none of those solutions worked for me, but found out it will be probably a driver problem. Contacted several forums and maybe microsoft community site offered the solution which was simply don't use the driver windows automaticly installs but the one on the acer support site... fine altough the last driver available only win7 compatible it worked just fine.
In fact i had to reinstall some stuff to make them work properly but i forgot about drivers because everything seemed fine. Then i connected through the LAN interface and the error came up again so here is what i have tried so far:
My wifi works perfectly fine. There are no programs(drivers) listed regarding the ethernet LAN interface. Probably because windows automaticly installs the "latest" "comaptible" version of the driver.
yeah that didnt work, it eventually prevents windows from getting updates, driver porblem remains..... the windows default driver is still not useable the latst working driver is "incompatible" either windows doesnt let it install or if i force it .... code 10 error....
The solutin offered by microsoft community site was i should install the driver running the setup.exe in compatibility mode. After a lot of failure succesfully installed in win7 compatibility mode but the device is again(still) has code 10 error... the event log for device in device manager says the device is configured and installed but didnt started, the entry didnt started has a text box which contains this:
According to the Broadcom-Website, the latest driver is 15.6.0.14. Windows 10 does not use this Version, but the Version 15.6.1.3 from the date you mention (18.08.2015). So per default it is not possible to revert to an older driver.
But the sad fact: the older driver does not resolve the network problem. I even installed the old Win7 driver, but I got the same error like you: (10). So it is possible to install the broadcom driver (even latest), but it does not resolve the problem!
I have a 5570g, and have been plagued with this issue since upgrading from W7 to Windows 10. I never had any internet drop out issues, but any attempt to transfer data to / from a network share, would cause the adapter to fail within seconds.
Hey, Thomas, I need your help. I have downloaded the 17.2.0.2 Broadcom x64 drivers but now I have hit a massive brick wall. I cannot delete the old drivers. As in, the driver stays at 15.6.1.3 even after I uninstall it or completely wipe the NIC adapter thing from the device manager. The issue is big as I am trying to sell my laptop ASAP. Mind helping me? To help me just tell me how to delete the old drivers and maybe walk me through the other steps to make sure that I do not **bleep** it up. Also, will the settings go back once I wipe my laptop with "Restore to Factory Settings" option? If, it will then helping me this one time will be enough.
After you have installed the new driver, connect to the internet, force windows update. Probably it will download its standard driver again and reinstall it. But now you can tell windows to revert to the previous one (per device manager), because luckily there was our version 17.2.0.2 before. Windows will then stay there and all will be fine.
The issue is still not resolved. At the moment I saved all the drivers that I will use on an external HDD and will Factory Reset the Laptop because I will have to soon anyways. So, I have attempted your method and it still did not work. What happened is that my laptop after "installing" the new file has two separate files in the update driver section. Both of them have no actual name but "Broadcom NetLink Gigabit Ethernet" as a thing. Also, the file in itself (the .inf file) after right clicking and installing does the process in under a second. Is that correct?
In addition to the issues that I just described, there is one more, and I think it is worse. When I try to "update" the driver, it tells me that it cannot find the file. All of this added up is super annoying. I really hope that someone can kinda walk me through the process.
ArseniyKD It is correct, that the installation of the INF-File runs so fast, because it just copies the driver to the driver repository. After that you have to tell your NIC to use it. What you obviously tried, I guess, when you saw "Broadcom NetLink Gigabit Ethernet" two times. Just try it out which one of them is correct. You can check the version afterwards in the device manager.
This is a tough one. Looking initially for the Qualcom Atheros QCA9377 drivers. The one referenced elsewhere at -wireless-download.php?chipset=104&system=5 does not have a reference for the VEN_168C&DEV_0042&SUBSYS_E09A105B&REV_30 hardware of this laptop. Forcing the install of this driver give an error 10, whatever that is. Still no wireless devices found so that means it's not working.
Actually it is a wee bit more tricky .... I wanted to go to a dual boot system Win7/10 and wanted to gain control over the system so wanted to switch back to MBR file system and use boot manager. To do this, I'd have to reinstall Windows 10. I used a tool "Product Key" to get my Win 10 product key and then download the Windows 10 iso via -windows-10-offline-iso-files-and-create-installation-media/. You'll have a table of selections for download and just use the Windows Home edition if you are dwonloading from a different system. Whatever you do, DO NOT select Windows 10 Home "Single Language" or you'll have to reinstall later because the SN will be wrong. Now use free ImgBurn or other favorite to burn an install DVD of the Win 10 ISO. Mark the Windows 10 serial number on the disc for future reference. You might want to find a 16GB or larger USB Thumb drive and go through the acer system routine to make a factory restore image on a USB stick before you destroy your image, just in case you descide to go back to the old setup later. Of course all data is lost when you reinstall Windows 10 so ensure you have any of your system info backed up if you were previously using the system. (This procedure is really best on a fresh install.) Then burn the Windows 10 ISO to DVD and get ready to delete the existing Windows 10 installation after copying down the Windows 10 serial number.
Begin the rebuild: I power on and spam F2 to get the bios menu and I switch from UEFI to Legacy setting, reboot, spam the F2 again and set secure boot off and set the boot order to where the CD/DVD is first in the boot order (F5/F6). Now this assumes dual boot Win7/10 desired from here on but if you want only one, e.g. Win 7 alone or Win 10 with MBR boot manager instead of UEFI, then leave all the empty space allocatable and install the single system on a empty partition instead of making two partitions and cutting it in half for 2. Load the Win 10 DVD and reboot and re-install windows 10 first if you will be adding Win 7 next as dual boot; if not, then use only the DVD for the desired one. If you'll be installing Win 7 alone then you'll need to find a working SN, there are ways you can legally transfer your SN from a crashed machine plus find various bargains on someonen selling same. Most of the SNs you buy that are sold at less than the retain are called OEM installs and they require a different Win 7 install disk than the shrink wrap retail version. Know what you are buying and what disk you need before you spend hours and learn you have to start over.
Windows 10 should go on first or if you are only installing Win 7, just go with it. Click Custom Install during the intial load of the DVD and delete all the partitions (including resotre) and start with a fresh empty drive, then you can optionally allocate around 50% to two partitions (one for each Win 7/10) and optionally select the top 500GB or so to install Windows 10 then. Go through all the options, use the configure option always to set all the spyware off (although you'll never get it all off, even with tools) but try anyway. I don't think you will need any of the drivers off the Acer support page but they're there if you do. You'll lose Power DVD 12. Oh well, try VLC Player.
OK, if you downloaded the correct Win 10 DVD the system will auto register with your old SN and you won't have to do anything as far as authentication. You can't use the same SN for Win10, however, you'll have to purchase a new SN for Win 7. Now with the DVD for Win 7 (relative label to the SN you purchase OEM/Retail) start the Win 7 installation. Same place as before on Win 10, only this time on Win 7, select Custom install. HOWEVER this time choose the 500GB unallocated partition you DID NOT INSTALL win 10 on. Let it rip. Now soon you'll want to rearange the boot seq menu in the BIOS to stop the initial delay in waiting for the DVD, or leave it that way if you frequently boot that way (haven't found any Linux that will boot from this BIOS, believe some are downgrading to a 1.0V or much lower in order to run Linux; please report if you find a working solution.)
Now get the network working first and before doing anything else, it's best to just allocate about 3 hours and let Windows 7 SP1 run through the first update phase, about 158 updates, 2 hours to figure out what it needs and about 1 hour to install. (No telementary installed on first pass it appears as of today). Once all the initial updates are done (and maybe a few more), it's time to open Device Manager and get rid of the hardware missing driver issues.
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