Corroded Movie

[Gabby Dreher]

Corrodecomes from Latin corrodere ("to gnaw to pieces"), a combination of the prefix "cor-" (used here as an intensifier with the meaning of "completely") and the verb "rodere" ("to gnaw"). At one time, "corrode" was used to literally indicate the action of gnawing away, as in "woodworms corroded the wood." But it is the more figurative senses from the action of gnawing or eating away that have persisted, as in "salt water corroded the iron" or "graphic content on television and the Internet is corroding the moral fabric of society."

Some of the older capsules were made of lead (which were banned in '96). Capsules are generally for aesthetics, and have no effect on the wine inside. But if you intend to drink any bottle with a corroded capsule, make sure to clean the lip before pouring wine.

We see oxidized capsules on almost a daily basis, and classify it only as a cosmetic issue which is often associated with a humid cellar. It is true that older capsules have a higher tenancy to oxidize, but we do still see it happen with new bottles - and it is often producer specific. Opus One is a great example - those black capsules show it well and it seems like you have an almost a 50/50 chance of seeing an oxidized cap on an older Opus.

If the capsule is corroded, is it customary (or necessary) to remove the capsule to inspect the cork for leakage, etc to verify? Also, if I have a corroded capsule should I remove it (or do anything else) to prevent damage of any kind? Occasionally I see bottles offered with the capsule removed and was curious why that would be.

Pat,

It is neither customary or necessary to remove a corroded capsule. I have seen no correlation between corroded capsules and signs of seepage. I would not recommend removing the capsule, as that could have an effect on the resale value of a wine. It is not necessary. Corrosion and oxidation of capsules is merely a cosmetic defect of a bottle and has no effect on the wine inside the bottle.

My copper coloured Ring video doorbell is severely corroded. I have many other Ring products which are installed outside at the same location and they have not suffered any noticeable deterioration. Is there a replacement case available? Or are there special cleaning instructions. The copper is peeling away and the metal underneath is corroding seriously. I suspect that the weather tightness of the product will soon be compromised.

Hi @user81202. With Ring Doorbells being outside devices, they are exposed to the elements and over time, the can deteriorate. I suggest cleaning the device regularly to prevent any issues. As for the warranty, you can check here to see if your device qualifies for a replacement. Also, if you have the Ring Protect Plan, you may be able to get a replacement. For assistance, you can contact our support team via Facebook or Twitter by sending them a direct message. Thank you and let me know if you have any additional questions.

Hello, I just got a K1000 SE and some lenses. I was trying to put a new battery in the body, but it seems like the compartment is corroded shut. Rather than wrestling with it and messing up the body, is there any way to open it, maybe some cleaner or something that won't mess up the body?

Thanks everyone for your help, I ended up taking off the bottom plate and using some cleaner to loosen up the battery cover. So now I have to get a battery and test the camera out... might have to sell one of my other cameras so I can keep this one......

Tom Cheshire , Jul 09, 2010; 08:25 p.m. wrote: "If the battery has been in there a long time it might have expanded a bit thus jamming the cover. In cases like that we have had to apply heat with a soldering iron to make the metal expand a bit..."

Batteries usually 'explode' in a fire due to the boiling of the electrolyte and the issuance of steam. If the battery has leaked, it's probably all dry and when 'cooked', no steam just roasted cell is the probable result.

Leakage also plays havoc with copper wires. I've fixed some older rangefinders wherein the wires drew up the electrolyte (capillary action perhaps) from the battery holder and slowly had dissolved over time.

I removed it by drilling two small holes in the battery cover near the outer edge. I then inserted two finishing nails to act as pins and applied some WD40 around the circumference of the cover. After about a twenty minute wait, I slipped a slender screwdriver between the "pins" and used it as a lever to twist off the cover. It came right off for me. I was able to clean the threads on the cover and reuse it.

Thanks everyone for your responses. What I ended up doing was taking the bottom plate off and soaking the battery cover with lemon juice and then there are two notches on the inside of the battery cover that needle nose pliers fit into snugly and then loosened it up that way. I think I need to clean the battery compartment and check the wiring because the meter isnt working. Thanks again for all the suggestions!!

I have a Fitbit Charge HR that I cycle out with a Blaze. Love them both. However, my CHR won't charge anymore. In looking at the terminals it appears that the contacts are corroded away (black/brown dots in the middle of the copper terminals). I'm guessing that since I use the CHR when I work out that the sweat has eroded the terminals away.

It is hard to see in the picture, but where the copper connection terminals are... they aren't there. It looks like plastic. You can still see a bit of the copper connection material on the outside edges but nothing in the middle where the charger physically/electrically touches/connects to the CHR. Over the years the CHR has progressively gotten worse that you had to fiddle with the connection more and more to get it to start. Once you found the sweet spot it would charge. My guess is that this was because you'd be wiggling it until it moved to a spot with the terminal still intact... and now the terminal has receded too far so you can't wiggle it into submission.

The problem isn't so much that it won't charge but rather that the terminals are eroded. Instead of two round connection terminals on the CHR mine has two ports but they aren't copper anymore... They are black/brown in the center (where the cord terminals would touch) like there is no more conductive metal there. It looks like fitbit makes those terminals by simply coating the plastic chassis with a conductive material. If you look real close in my picture you can see that the terminals look eroded in the middle (sorry for the shoddy picture of the issue as I don't have great macro camera gear at the moment).

I have a DVM so I can test it but I think the issue is less of an electrical issue and more of a physical/mechanical issue due to the conductive charging parts eroding away and thus disallowing a physical connection.

So with that said I am not sure if there will be continuity going through the CHR as it doesn't seem to be continuous through my Blaze. If you have a CHR, then I'd be interested to see what you get on your reading between the two terminals.

Below is a drawing of what the terminals used to look like and below is what mine looks like. If you look closely at the original picture in the original post you might be able to make it out better with the below graphic.

My Fitbit Inspire HR charging contacts have exactly the same problem (I like your picture!). I currently find that cleaning the contacts on the tracker with a contact wool bud soaked in isopropanol alcohol allows it to charge - but I have to do this every time. Fitbit should give me free supplies or give me a new tracker! I'll be buying a much cheaper Amazon brand next time. Fitbit are over priced and short lived.

I have had this exact same problem with my Inspire HR. Support gave me a 35% coupon that I never used and I kept deal with it. DE ided to try to solder it tonight. Couldn't get the solder to drop into the hole nicely. Ended up melting some of the plastic around the hole and now it defintely wont charge.

After thinking that I completely broke my Inspire HR after the above. I decided to one last time take a swing at fixing it. I got an exacto knife with a very fine tip, and I scraped in each small circle. To my amazement, I was able to see more gold contact shining. So I kept going. I then got some isopropyl alchohal and with a q-tip cleaned the contacts. Went back and forth scraping and cleaning and to my amazement my Inspire charges just fine now. I think the gold contacts are deeper than we realize and corrosion and **ahem** makes it look like the plating has worn off.

I thought my Versa would need to be replaced regardless if it wouldn't charge so figured it wouldn't hurt to try scraping the leads with an Exacto knife. You're right... they are deeper than I thought! I was able to get them cleaned of the gunk and it immediately charged when placed in the base. Thanks so much for the idea!

On a Pentax Spotmatic and some Zenit - the latter I haven't looked at recently.

I'd like to keep these cameras functioning, and the reason I got the Spotmatic was because the meter is broken in my SPII, so any ideas ideas on how to loosen the corosion without damaging the electronics?

I was thinking WD-40 but I don't want it to leak into the camera body.

EDIT: Changed the title to be more clear about my problem.

Originally posted at 8:36PM, 7 March 2009 PDT(permalink)

gigantic rock edited this topic ages ago.

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