220v

[Егор Ульянов]

Thereare 2 different voltages to pay attention to. Most spindles are 220v - the 3-phase circuit between the VFD and the spindle is at 220v. I have seen some 110v spindles, but 220v is more common The voltage between the wall outlet and your VFD can be a different voltage - as long as you get a VFD that supports the configuration.

The fact that 2.2 kW spindle/VFD kits for 110 V are sold is due to the fact that they fool the buyer about the REAL current draw of such a spindle/VFD. See Incorrect or missing data on cheap chinese VFDs and spindles.

I would like to install a couple of these at my house in the UK but note that the input voltage on the label only says 110v at 60Hz. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to get it to work or perhaps even if the transformer already supports that voltage?

Before buying, I checked with Wyze support if it will work with 220v (what we use here in South Africa) and they advised against it. The rebel in me went ahead with it anyway, based on @EduG 's advice above.

Hi Juanh - It looks like you plugged this 110 Volt only device directly into a 220 volt line without using a transformer and that has not fried your device?! Is the device still working with no issues?

I have a question about how the amps measurement is reported both for the main system and the expansion module. For example I have one CT hooked to one leg of my hot water heater which reads 5000watts when energized. I have the multiplier on two. I look at the amps and it shows 43 amps which appears to be double the actual load. (30 amp breaker). Same question for the main clamps; is it also reporting double the actual 220v amps?

I have the same problems here (reported the double Amp problem somewhere else in the forums) and I also observed the negative values on the Other (the dryer reaches nearly twice the power measured on the mains.

I installed my system yesterday and noticed the problem immediately. Mainly because my EV also shows the incoming amps and I can compare that to the outgoing amps from the Emporia system. It does appear that kW are calculated correctly, but it looks like you are dividing by 120 instead of 240 to calculate the amps on the double breaker circuits. It is difficult to see what the true usage of power is when the circuit box is a mix of 120v and 240v circuits.

hello all. I bought a 2.2kw spindle setup new from a local guy, i assumed it was 110v and it turned out to be 220v. i have no 220v in my shop. does anyone know if the spindle that came in the 220v kit will work if i just buy a 110v VFD or should i sell the whole kit and buy a 110v kit?

The next question is, what is the optimal motor size/diameter for each of those power ratings, and after that, what is the largest diameter tool which would make sense, and what speed rates would generate suitable chiploads w/in the range of feed rates the machine is capable of, which results in the corollary: Are there any such ratings which are not addressed in the market?

It would likely trip the breaker when the Spindle exceeds 1500W of load. If certain failures occur in the proper sequence, an electrical fire could occur. By design and proper engineering the breaker should trip first, but things happen.

What in the heck do I have to do to get a panelboard that I can connect 220v and/or 240v fixtures to! I tried changing the board manually in family editor, but then I couldn't select a distribution system for it. I found one on seek.autodesk, yet I still can't assign a distribution system to it to make it usable. I know I'm not an expert on electrical systems here, but I feel this should not be this hard. Is what I am trying to do so uncommon? Hook up a 220v receptacle to a panel in a residential setting? No, I do not think so! So why is this so difficult!?

No, it doesn't matter what I do. I still can't connect this panel to a distribution system. Once again I don't know why this is so hard to do. Isn't this the standard? Why is there only this 208v wye panel as default? here's the panel I am currently trying to use. See if anyone can get it to work.

Hey alright, I finally got it to work by setting the number of poles on the panel to two. But now the distribution system's voltage definition's minimum and maximum voltage settings don't work like they're supposed to because I still can't connect the dryer and stove's 220v outlets to the panel. The 240v for the kiln connects just fine the voltage definition says 220 - 250. So what's the problem? I think it's Autodesk.

Okay, I actually went with the edited Revit built in model. I'm just going to give you the entire project. I'm a student and this is the house our instructor gave us for our MEP class. It's in the first floor electrical plan, you'll see the 220's in the bathroom and kitchen there. Please see if you can figure out how to connect them. Thank you

Im buying a 1500w Laser Machine from China and Im running into this problem. From all the forums ive read, you guys seem to make the most sense.The machine specs is 220v +-10% 60hz as per the name plate and manual.I have 220v single phase in my shop in Canada, which has the same system as the US.

From what ive gathered, ground would be connected ground and the machines Live wire will be on our 1 hot and their N wire will be on the other hot. So 2 hots and 1 Ground.Other US/Canada users with this machine run it this way with no problems it seems but my question would be even though it does run, is there anything that might go wrong because of the split phase/no neutral here in Us/Can? Safety wise, operation wise, yes it will work or seem to work but is there a difference that might cause an issue in the future.PIC 1 - wires from machinePIC 2 - Machine SchematicPIC 3 - Our 220v system here in Canada/usPIC 4 - Chinas 220v system

I'd say that's 20Amps per leg @ 220v (40amps total). hence the 10 awg wire. Lenght of the run can come into play and if you are a long run from the box then you could experience an issue and need to go up to a bigger wire. Look at the motor plate to make sure of the amp rating that will dictate the wire guage but the manual should be accurate for that model. The 40amp fuse is inline to the motor as overload protection i.e. it pulls too much it would trip saving the motor.

Me i'd do 10awg with a 30a breaker at the box which is what i've seen with 5hp saws(thats a general statement). If you want the fuse put it inline down stream from the breaker, but you'd trip the breaker before you hit the 40amps IMO(in most cases not surging). Most mag switches these days have thermal overload protection so fuse part looks interesting. Main point I'd make don't confuse that fuse with a breaker. It's a code violation to have a 40a breaker mated to 10 awg wire.

Unfortunately the only info I have on the saw is what I have read in the manual and online. The wire run will be 20' or less. I think I will go with the 3hp model 36-L352. I don't see my self cutting any 12/4 any time soon.

Most (again depends on the motor plate) will be 20 amps @ 220 so that means 10 amps per leg. The cost of copper these days is just unreal. I know why theft is so huge now its almost on par with gold. Unless you want to be able to do 110 at the same outlet as the 220 (sometimes that might be nice) or the saw mandates it. (digital displays etc that would require 110) you only need two hots and a ground. My 3hp griz saw has been 12/2. I have a 2hp bandsaw that could run on 14/2 because its only 7.5 amps per leg (15 total) @ 220. In my shop which is probably pretty typical I have 2 220v circuits. I have one dedicated to the dust collector 2hp 12/2 on a 20a breaker. I have a second circuit that is wired in series to several locations to serve my other 220v devices which include a 12" jointer, 17" Bandsaw, and the 3hp TS. Since I will never be operating two pieces at the same time that made sense. The run you speak of is nothing distance will not be an issue for you. I have recently switched over and started uing 3 phase power much better and 3 phase tools cheaper. I did put in a rotary phase converter but thats not hard. (sorry don't want to confuse the topic) . Again, if you only want to run the saw you don't need the 3rd conductor. As to the 3 .vs. 5 If you want it get it. I've never ever said dang I regret having to much power. My next upgrade is to a 5hp sawstop. Now that comes with additional cost for copper and breaker but its once.

I have a real good article on 220v and if you want shoot me a pm and I'll send it to you. Wiring is not complicated but you MUST do it to code or you could get yourself into a bad situation. Good luck.

However, I would seriously rethink buying the 5hp. That saw is designed for a production environment and that doesn't sound like your situation. Even though there is a minimal price difference, you'll spend far more in wiring upgrades than it's worth. I have a 3hp Powermatic that sometimes runs 5-6 hours continuously with absolutely no problem. I'm not a production environment, but I'm certainly a busy shop these days. All my stationary equipment is on 20 or 30 amp 240v circuits.

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