Leather Production - Managing Quality

[Annabella Webmaster]

Managing Quality

The dictionary definition of quality in any product is that it is the
characteristic property of that product, and a measure of its standard
of excellence of the product.

Quality in a finished leather, or leather product, means an attractive
appearance, a long lasting material and a high standard of
workmanship. It is related to price and a good quality relates to a
higher price compared with a lower standard of quality. The assessment
of value, for a certain quality at a certain price, depends on the
customer. However, often they are not aware of differences in leather
quality.

Leather production starts with a material, which is already below the
top quality standard in surface appearance, in different degrees. All
of the variables should be related to the raw material price.
Processing aims to improve the appearance, and so add value. This will
involve more costs for the lower grades, compared with the lower costs
for the top quality raw material, because much more work is needed to
produce an acceptable appearance. For example, the top quality aniline
leather has the thin, transparent coloured finish film. Lower
qualities need to have covering pigment films, which cover and
disguise defects, before they can have an approximately similar
aniline appearance. The focus on upgrading the lower priced material
has been most successful in the supply of lower priced footwear and
leather goods. Of course, it still does not really look like the top
quality, but the lower price compensates for this and makes it
attractive to the customer from the value aspect. The customer market
has to be selected for the particular raw material and production
potential available from the facilities.

MANAGING QUALITY - STANDARDS AND PROCESS CONTROLS

Leather needs to have a consistent appearance, with a consistent
chemical and physical composition. It also has to behave consistently
in the manufacture of the product, for example in the lasting and
shaping of a shoe. Customers need to have confidence that the tannery
is in control and will be a reliable supplier for quality and
delivery. It is always important, but especially for exports from an
industry in a developing country, where a good reputation has to be
earned and maintained.

To manage quality, control of the relevant property is needed to make
this reliable product from a variable raw material. Many of the
characteristics of leather are subjective (appearance, feel and
softness) but some are objective (thickness and colour). A quality
standard does not truly refer to perfection but to an agreed balance
between the customer’s need and the supplier’s capability, which may
be described in the sales contract and may incorporate a sample
pattern for colour, feel or type of appearance. It is also involves
mutual understanding and agreement. For raw hides and skins, the
standard may be the proportion of different grades of sound material,
with grades based on the potential final value of the leather
produced. The customer needs to have the consistency and reliability
of a uniform supply, within an agreed tolerance.

Once the different standards are established, plans are made to
control these at different process stages, by checks and inspections.
It is known that process conditions need to be consistent to achieve
reliability. Consequently, recording systems are needed, depending on
the product required, to achieve the desired reproducibility. The
whole manufacturing system can be developed to ensure that each
employee plays a part in ensuring that each operation done is a
correct step to produce the standard required. The controls need not
be complicated but they should begin early in the processing and be
maintained consistently.


Contributed By Mr. Woodley, Michael
International Consultant
May, 2007
http://www.ab-corporategifts.com