TW Scott tailwheel info

[Steve Dalton]

Here's what I learned from my tailwheel overhaul in 2005. I'd attach
a picure, but don't know how to. ??

Well, Ski and I had "Tailwheel Tim" rebuild our tailwheels. Tim has
built every Scott tailwheel for the past 10 years. He was VERY
helpful in explaining stuff about the Scott's.

After the overhaul, and installing the correct springs/chains, I've
had one shimmy in five landings, but overall it is much better. Also,
it taxi's great, and the tailwheel breaks free for sharp turns like a
dream.

Here's what I learned from Tim:

-When you take the top and bottom half of the tailwheel apart there
should be FOUR compression springs in the little holes that hold
them. I had three and Ski had two. Tim says somebody took the others
out, as they are in it when he builds them.

-The U-shaped spring steel thing with the tab ends that "locks" the
tailwheel centered can be put in upside down. Use a Phillips
screwdriver thru the center hole to test mount it without the shims.
Then flip it over and try it that way. Which ever way has the least
wiggle is the correct fit.

-There are two thin spring steel shims that go in with the U-shaped
spring. One shim is thicker than the other. THE THICK ONE GOES
BEHIND THE SPRING. He could not fit the thin one in the front side,
not enough clearance. He said it's OK without the thin front one if
it's too tight to go in, but MUST have the thicker rear one. He
mentioned that the drawing many people have is wrong about this.

-The phenolic thrust washers must be in good shape, or replace them
(they're cheap).

-Here's the coolest part of the trip to Tim. How do you get the
bearing off the shaft? It's EASY. Slide a drift pin in the holes
that the grease vents out onto the tailwheel tire from and whack the
bearing off. He took it off in 5 seconds! Important: this ruins the
steel thrust washer under the bearing and it must be replaced.

-He pounds the new bearing on with a tool like a big socket. No big
deal, pound it on.

-Obviously make sure you reassemble it properly when you put the top
and bottom halves back together. The proper torque for the castle nut
that hold the halves together is 15 INCH-pounds. INCH, not foot-
pounds.

-This was a biggie on my plane. I had the WRONG tailwheel springs/
chains. The correct springs are in Scott part #3239 Spring Connector
Kit. They are large, gold colored, coil springs with the ends bent
into hooks.

-Connect the chains to the OUTER holes in the control arm of the
tailwheel. Using the correct springs and these holes works great.
Now, the control arms cannot be bent up, the spring cushions the
tension perfectly, preventing the arms from bending. The chains
should NOT be too tight. A little slack is OK. The tailwheel is
designed to operate that way.

[Ira Saligman]

WE were thinking of trying to get a shorter tailwheel extension bar.

A 3 point landing attitude, is well above stall with enough energy on the
plane to get airborne again.

Has anyone addressed this on their plane?

Ira Saligman

o 610 940 0420
c 610 324 5500
f 215 243 7699

isal...@Saligman.com

[da...@mcgirt.net]

Honestly, it has never occured to me as a problem.. I will admit I rarely 3 point land unless the strip is less than 1900 ft..

David



Sent from my BlackBerry wireless handheld.

-----Original Message-----
From: "Ira Saligman" <isal...@saligman.com>

Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 05:55:28
To:<Yak-52-TW-O...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [Yak52TW] Re: TW Scott tailwheel info

[Herb Coussons]

I agree -
wheel land the 52TW

Herb

[David McGirt]

Plus it is harder to wave at the cute blonds in the crowd 3-pointing ...

[Ira Saligman]

When you fly a TW, the cute blondes should be waving to you.

[David McGirt]

Have to hedge by bet.. :)