T&T: weather proof connections

[Richard P via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

I have a 12 ft. high radar mast that oiss difficult to climb. On the top I
have several electrical connections to lights and other devices. Within a
few years these connections always corrode to the point of uselessness. The
heat sealed crimp connections, even with the glue, eventually fail because
they are never completely sealed. Maybe soldering is the best bet but I am
wondering if anyone has a better solution to make outside wire connections
that won’t eventually fail.

Richard
M/V Lilliana
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[Bob McLeran via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Suggest trying hot glue. We've used it for years on the open ends of of
some of our exterior heat-shrink/soldered (marine) connections. In a few
locations, such as connections to spreader lights, we use a terminal
block, also covered with hot glue. We've tried heat shrink tape over
marine connections, but the sun eventually deteriorates it; for whatever
reason hot glue seems to outlast everything.

<><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><>
Bob McLeran and Judy Young Manatee Cove Marina
MV Sanderling Patrick Air Force Base
DeFever 41 Trawler Melbourne, Florida
Blog: http://mvsanderling.net/Blog
Web: http://cruising.mvsanderling.net/

On 3/10/2019 05:14 PM, Richard P via Trawlers-and-Trawlering wrote:
> I have a 12 ft. high radar mast that oiss difficult to climb. On the top I
> have several electrical connections to lights and other devices. Within a
> few years these connections always corrode to the point of uselessness. The
> heat sealed crimp connections, even with the glue, eventually fail because
> they are never completely sealed. Maybe soldering is the best bet but I am
> wondering if anyone has a better solution to make outside wire connections

> that won’t eventually fail.

[John Walsh via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Slide a piece of plastic tube just larger than the connection and fill both
ends with silicone. It should stay as is, but if concerned, you can put
hose clamps on both sides. Definitely not elegant, but I had an antenna
connection on a fly bridge that lasted the 12 years until I sold the boat.

John
Riviera Dunes, FL

[Steve Sipe via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Some details might be worth considering. If you're using heat shrink
terminal connectors, they're very easy to damage when crimping, so use a
high quality crimping tool and make sure there's no distortion of the
cover.  I've had frequent experience with heat shrink terminals that
were damaged during crimping, they must be checked meticulously for
damage of the cover.  Better yet, just use bare crimps and cover each
with shrink tube.   The shrink tube should be 1) dual wall 2) 3:1
recovery 3) don't try to seal two conductors with a single shrink tube,
it will ultimately leak, unless they're in a jacketed multi-conductor
cable. If that's the case, a round jacket will, as you might imagine,
seal better.
Make sure the recovered OD of the shrink tube is smaller than the wire
you're covering so you're sure to get a good seal.  The 3:1 tube will
recover thicker, and will last longer. We used 3:1  dual wall shrink
tube on submersible pump cable splices for years, they lived under water
for 20+yrs. and didn't leak. Just to clarify, dual wall indicates hot
melt adhesive lined.

-------
Steve Sipe
Solo 4303 /Maerin/
University Cove

On 3/10/2019 5:14 PM, Richard P via Trawlers-and-Trawlering wrote:
> I have a 12 ft. high radar mast that oiss difficult to climb. On the top I
> have several electrical connections to lights and other devices. Within a
> few years these connections always corrode to the point of uselessness. The
> heat sealed crimp connections, even with the glue, eventually fail because
> they are never completely sealed. Maybe soldering is the best bet but I am
> wondering if anyone has a better solution to make outside wire connections
> that won’t eventually fail.
>
> Richard

_______________________________________________

[Al Thomason via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Rickard,

One idea is how I did my Bullet WiFi Repeater: Using self adhesive mastic sheets in the way that Telco and Cable TV companies make their connections highly water resistant.

http://mvvikingstar.blogspot.com/2014/02/wifi-repeater-for-boat-update.html#WaterProof

In short, using self bonding SCOTT 2210 mastic (or equivalent). 1st step is to wrap things up using good quality electrical tape, but make sure the sticky side if facing OUT! Known as a Courtesy Wrap, it will keep the mastic from attaching to things if down the road you want to open things up. Next apply sheet(s) of the 2210 mastic from each wire end, overlapping and forming it into a solid mass. Then finish wrap with good electrical tape to give some UV protection.

You should be able to purchase the mastic at a local electrical supply house (proper one, not Big Box store). Comes in 4" squares or a roll.


Wrap things up like that and you will never have water intrusion issues. Plus, if you do the Courtesy Warp you can cut it apart at some time if you need to get in there.

-al-




Viking Star
45' Monk Sr. / McQueen
mvVikingStar.blogspot.com

[Al Thomason via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

FYI: Russell D. contacted me off-line and said he has been using Stott 2228 mastic. Found the following chart and it seems the 2228 might well be a more suitable version vs. the 2210.


http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/770751O/3mtm-sealing-insulating-mastic-tape-comparison-chart.pdf?fn=EMD%20Tape%20Sealing%20and%20Mastic%20Comp


Thanks Russell!

-al-


Viking Star
45' Monk Sr. / McQueen
mvVikingStar.blogspot.com