Deco Evening Wear: An Overview of the '20s, '30s, and early '40s
Eliza
In the Style of the Twenties, Thirties and Forties
The Art Deco Society of California is well-known for our glamorous
events. Many people have told us that coming to our Gatsby Summer
Afternoon or Art Deco Preservation Ball is, for them, "Just like being
in a classic movie!"
These delightful excursions into the past combine many elements of the
culture we are trying to preserve: music, dance, fashion, automobiles,
architecture. One of the most striking aspects of walking into an Art
Deco Society event is the realization that there are no spectators;
every guest is a participant, a contributor to the vintage ambience.
The event is even more enjoyable when you are an integral part of it!
However, for the novice Decophile, this poses a problem: how to put
together an outfit that one is comfortable with, yet evokes the Deco
Era and allows one to get into vintage character. It is not necessary
to be head-to-toe perfect (although after a time that may come too!).
It is simply a question of following the silhouette of the decade that
best suits your figure and your persona. You will find that in most
cases, 'the look' is quite achievable using modem clothing and
accessories!
A NOTE FOR MEN
We don't say much about evening wear for men because the 'rules' are
fairly well-known and haven't changed much over the decades. Briefly,
his choices are:
WHITE TIE: Formal wear, or 'tails' -- the full dress suit with
swallowtail coat, white tie, white vest. The vest can be single- or
double-breasted, or white pique cotton or silk. Stiff, starched linen
shirt, often with white pique front, and wing collar, fastened with
pearl or moonstone studs. Top hat and white gloves, and a cape or
Chesterfield overcoat, complete the ensemble.
BLACK TIE: "Informal" wear, dinner jacket or 'tuxedo' -- a more modern
look, basically the same line as the everyday 'sack suit.' Trousers are
black; jacket is most often black, but midnight blue (in the 20s) and
white (in the 40s) were also worn. The white shirt is semi-stiff, fold
or wing collar, with a black bow tie. Vest (black or white) or
cummerbund finishes the suit.
"THE LOOK" IN BRIEF: SUMMARIES DECADE BY DECADE
Below are short summaries of favorite evening looks for each decade of
the Deco Era. But the best way to see these clothes 'in action,' so to
speak, is to go to the movies and see the best work of the best
designers, on the most beautiful women of their time. Woman's reach
should exceed her grasp, after all -- how else to explain our
idolization of those gorgeous visions of the silver screen!
1920s: The best look for very slim ladies. The silhouette is straight,
generally falling straight from the shoulder to just below the knee.
Sometimes the dress is belted at the hips, or caught at one hip with a
large silk flower or jeweled brooch. Usually sleeveless, the fabrics
tend to be light chiffons, crepes, or satins, generally in solid colors
for evening, often embroidered or beaded. Hems are knee-length,
although for evening the handkerchief hem or scooped hem (short in
front, long in back) added a sense of formality. Hair was short and/or
close to the head. Evening cloches are rare; more often a simple band
or silk flower was the only ornament.
1930s: A lovely style in which to show off sleek curves. The best-known
look is the bias cut gown, which lightly skims the body, lovingly
hugging the hips and bust, and cascades smoothly to floor length. The
favorite fabrics were crepe and satin, in black, white and colors both
vivid and soft. One signature look is the sleeveless bodice, draped in
front, and plunging to the waist in back. Interesting sleeve
treatments, sometimes incorporating scarves or capes, often added
interest and unique style. Hair is still close to the head, but a bit
longer, wavier, more feminine.
1940s: Especially flattering to the well-endowed woman. The 40s gown
generally emphasized the waist -- contrasting its slimness between
padded shoulders and full bodice, and the full, gathered skirt, to
create an hourglass figure. Often the dress would incorporate a sewn-in
cummerbund or waistband, set off by beads, studs, jewels, or simply a
contrasting color. Drama and whimsy are expressed in unusual
embellishments at the corsage, waist, or hip. Often the bodice would be
beaded and/or embroidered in a sunburst or asymmetrical design.
Hairstyles of the 40s were fuller; hair was often drawn into a
pompadour in front, sometimes with hair cascading in waves and curls to
the shoulder, and sometimes topped with a small hat.
Again, we emphasize that it is not necessary to become a collector to
'dress up Deco' -- with a trip to any dress store, department store, or
even second-hand store, you will find a dress that follows one of the
above examples. You might even have something already in your closet!
Modem designers often draw from the styles of the past. So, period or
'perioid' -- it's your choice!