wing tank holes

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ktg

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Nov 21, 2010, 1:55:17 PM11/21/10
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kevin, what size holes do you recommend in the bottom of the center
section skin for the fuel lines?

thanks. kevin g

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kevin kimball

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Nov 21, 2010, 2:02:00 PM11/21/10
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Kevin,

We use 1" holes on the bottom but you can go a bit bigger if you like. Get the finger strainers from spruce that will go in the tank, get a socket that fits them and size the hole to be able to insert the socket onto the strainer and make sure you will be able to remove the strainer in the future if needed. Same for the vent fitting on top. No strainer there but be sure it is big enough to install the fitting.


Sincerely,

Kevin Kimball, Vice President
Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc.
PO Box 849
5354 Cemetery Road
Zellwood, FL 32798-0849
407.889.3451 phone
407.889.7168 fax
www.saettaboats.com
www.pittsmodel12.com
www.jimkimballenterprises.com
Email: Ke...@jimkimballenterprises.com

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ktg

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Nov 21, 2010, 2:12:32 PM11/21/10
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thanks. i was also concerned with being able to wrap and glue the
fabric inside the holes. it appears it will be difficult even with
the fittings removed but i guess one can manage.


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kevin kimball

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Nov 21, 2010, 2:15:26 PM11/21/10
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Don't warp the fabric into the holes. That is not a good idea. don't even cut the holes open until after all paint is done and just prior to mounting the wing on the fuselage for the final time.


Sincerely,

Kevin Kimball, Vice President
Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc.
PO Box 849
5354 Cemetery Road
Zellwood, FL 32798-0849
407.889.3451 phone
407.889.7168 fax
www.saettaboats.com
www.pittsmodel12.com
www.jimkimballenterprises.com
Email: Ke...@jimkimballenterprises.com

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ktg

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Nov 21, 2010, 3:35:36 PM11/21/10
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will i be cutting a hole in the fabric just big enough to fit the
fittings thru or will the hole be cut to match the 1" hole in the
plywood?

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kevin kimball

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Nov 21, 2010, 4:00:35 PM11/21/10
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Up to you really. For our airplanes, I usually cut the hole just slightly larger than the AN fitting to be threaded into the finger strainer.


Sincerely,

Kevin Kimball, Vice President
Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc.
PO Box 849
5354 Cemetery Road
Zellwood, FL 32798-0849
407.889.3451 phone
407.889.7168 fax
www.saettaboats.com
www.pittsmodel12.com
www.jimkimballenterprises.com
Email: Ke...@jimkimballenterprises.com

Phil Raine

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Nov 23, 2010, 12:38:55 PM11/23/10
to Pitts Model 12
Kevin, are there no strainers used on the main tank ?

On Nov 21, 10:00 pm, kevin kimball <kjkimb...@me.com> wrote:
> Up to you really.  For our airplanes, I usually cut the hole just slightly larger than the AN fitting to be threaded into the finger strainer.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Kevin Kimball, Vice President
> Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc.
> PO Box 849
> 5354 Cemetery Road
> Zellwood, FL 32798-0849
> 407.889.3451 phone
> 407.889.7168 faxwww.saettaboats.comwww.pittsmodel12.comwww.jimkimballenterprises.com
> Email:  Ke...@jimkimballenterprises.com
>
> On Nov 21, 2010, at 3:35 PM, ktg wrote:
>
>
>
> > will i be cutting a hole in the fabric just big enough to fit the fittings thru or will the hole be cut to match the 1" hole in the plywood?
>
> > Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Nov 21, 2010, at 1:15 PM, kevin kimball <kjkimb...@me.com> wrote:
>
> >> Don't warp the fabric into the holes.  That is not a good idea. don't even cut the holes open until after all paint is done and just prior to mounting the wing on the fuselage for the final time.
>
> >> Sincerely,
>
> >> Kevin Kimball, Vice President
> >> Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc.
> >> PO Box 849
> >> 5354 Cemetery Road
> >> Zellwood, FL 32798-0849
> >> 407.889.3451 phone
> >> 407.889.7168 fax
> >>www.saettaboats.com
> >>www.pittsmodel12.com
> >>www.jimkimballenterprises.com
> >> Email:  Ke...@jimkimballenterprises.com
>
> >> On Nov 21, 2010, at 2:12 PM, ktg wrote:
>
> >>> thanks.  i was also concerned with being able to wrap and glue the fabric inside the holes.  it appears it will be difficult even with the fittings removed but i guess one can manage.
>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
>
> >>> On Nov 21, 2010, at 1:02 PM, kevin kimball <kjkimb...@me.com> wrote:
>
> >>>> Kevin,
>
> >>>> We use 1" holes on the bottom but you can go a bit bigger if you like.  Get the finger strainers from spruce that will go in the tank, get a socket that fits them and size the hole to be able to insert the socket onto the
>
> > --
> > PLEASE READ THIS -
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>
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> > Jim Kimball Enterpriseswww.PittsModel12.com
> >www.2wings.com- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Kevin

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Nov 23, 2010, 1:12:29 PM11/23/10
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That is correct. The wing tank gets strainers since it will spend most twine empty and could have bugs or debris collect in it. Main tank always has fuel.

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Kevin

Darin Bishop

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Aug 27, 2015, 3:29:43 AM8/27/15
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Re-awakening this old thread from 2010.....with some more questions to clarify the top wing tank area prior to varnish.
 
  • Can anyone suggest a trick to mark where to cut the the four fuel strainer holes in the bottom and the two holews in the top tank cover for the filler neck and the vent? I was thinking of getting some NPT threaded plugs and cutting points on them with the lathe, then I could screw them into the tank and dent the wood where I need to drill. No idea on the top cover though other than measure and sneak up on it with undersized holes and a lot of test fitting as I hog it out.
 
  • I didn't drill any drain holes in the center section tail rib bays aft of the wing tank near the hand hold. Do we worry about condensation building up there?
 
Also a couple hardware questions:
 
  • Am I correct in assuming I need four of the standard finger strainers shown below with the 3/8" male pipe thread and 1/4" female pipe thread? Not the larger ones.
 
 
  •  Also, what hardware is used for the top wing tank fuel vent?
 
Thanks in advance for the answers!
 
Darin Bishop
Clipboard-1.jpg
Clipboard-2.jpg

Kevin Kimball

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Aug 27, 2015, 8:34:21 AM8/27/15
to 1Pitts12 List List
Darin,

We simply thread 4 AN6 straight fittings into the bungs, set the tank in the wing, move it around a little and it scratches the varnish inside the tank bay.  We then know where to cut holes.  We cut 3/4” holes, then install the tank and open the holes up enough to thread the fittings in again.  At that point, we slip a socket over the fittings (same size will fir the finger strainers) and trace the outline of the socket on the plywood.  Then open the holes to allow the socket to pass.  That way, if ever need to remove a strainer, will be able to do so by only cutting the fabric open more.

All bays need drain holes, in front of spar and at trailing edge and CS bow.

yes, 3/8”-1/4” strainers.

a straight AN4 flair fitting then make a 90 bend tube from 14” alum tube, sleeve and nut, install pointing forward after cover and paint.


Sincerely,

Kevin Kimball, President
Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc.
PO Box 849
5354 Cemetery Road
Zellwood, FL 32798-0849
On Aug 27, 2015, at 3:29 AM, Darin Bishop <db2...@2wings.com> wrote:

Re-awakening this old thread from 2010.....with some more questions to clarify the top wing tank area prior to varnish.
 
  • Can anyone suggest a trick to mark where to cut the the four fuel strainer holes in the bottom and the two holews in the top tank cover for the filler neck and the vent? I was thinking of getting some NPT threaded plugs and cutting points on them with the lathe, then I could screw them into the tank and dent the wood where I need to drill. No idea on the top cover though other than measure and sneak up on it with undersized holes and a lot of test fitting as I hog it out.
 
  • I didn't drill any drain holes in the center section tail rib bays aft of the wing tank near the hand hold. Do we worry about condensation building up there?
 
Also a couple hardware questions:
 
  • Am I correct in assuming I need four of the standard finger strainers shown below with the 3/8" male pipe thread and 1/4" female pipe thread? Not the larger ones.
 
<Clipboard-1.jpg>
 
  •  Also, what hardware is used for the top wing tank fuel vent?
 
<Clipboard-2.jpg>
Thanks in advance for the answers!
 
Darin Bishop

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