I ground the heads off the bolts. Didn't have a need for the old cheek blocks so I ground through them. With the heads ground off the blocks were easy to remove and the threaded bolts could be clamped and unscrewed.
I replaced the blocks wirh Lewmar foot blocks with jammers. I was able to use the same backing plates and have access tto the securing nuts.
It was a relatively easy job.
I raised the foot blocks by one inch.
All is working well.
Dick
s/v Lady Cybil
Grenada, WI
psherwood <p...@witanco.com>: Oct 18 10:04AM -0700
Thanks all for the input on getting the turning blocks off; I was afraid
the project would have a heartburn factor as high as everyone reports.
Yeah, my plan is to have Garhauer make something to fit, once I get the
frozen machine screws out. Guido was most helpful with the new traveler
and transition plates for the new rope clutches. Cheers,
Phil
s/v Cynosure
headin' to San Carlos in a couple of weeks
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Michael Moradzadeh <m...@yachtpc.com>: Oct 18 02:36PM -0700
Once you get the machine screws out, you will be left with a very nicely
made foot block. Clean it up, lube it, and you may be very happy with it.
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Robert Settle <robert...@gmail.com>: Oct 18 01:57PM -0700
I too removed all the deck hardware on my (Perry Norseman) boat. I was
amazed that the yard welder was able to remove many of the bolts and screws
-even ones whose heads broke off. He used his TIG torch to quickly weld a
nut to the top of the screw head. When even those broke off he welded a
pyramid of filler metal to the broken bolt shaft then when it was still hot
dropped a nut on top and hit it with a hammer. He then filled in the hole
in the nut with more filler. They all came out. All without any damage to
the surrounding structures. Even on my aluminum steering pedestal. Simply
amazed me.
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