'Race Around Europe' Trip - the story
Mark Jones
Well, left work at 5.00pm and casually caught a 5-minute bus to Zurich
International 'Flughafen' airport (now that is the way to leave work on
a Thursday night!). Spent an hour or two shopping in the airport and
thoughtfully purchased 2 box of Sprungli chocolates (for friends I was
catching up with); http://www.spruengli.ch. Yes - these are the best
choccies in the world!
Realised I had forgotten my password, but no worries, I was able to
travel on my Swiss identity card; I definitely was feeling Swiss. And
then - first obstacle - they wouldn't check me in because I was on a
one-way ticket - return unknown (as I had no idea which country, or
indeed when I would return to Switzerland from the 2 week odyssey). So
looking like a terrorist in my G-Star jeans and polo shirt I stood by
as the ticket person checked with security - sheesh.
A short 1-hour flight and I landed in Prague! Catching a taxi to the
airport (infrastructure still poorly developed), I was surprised to
find, that the hotel Georgia had chosen was art-deco modern and really
nice; http://www.kkhotels.com/index.asp?ID=282#Hauptbereich. It was
flash! full glass elevator. On top of that, it was located in the heart
of old Prague right next to 'Powder Tower'. I settled in and decided to
drop the choccies down to reception as a present when Georgia and
Spence arrived ... yet strangely no Georgia Camplin, or Spencer Lowndes
surnames were on the guest registry ... surely they didn't book another
hotel, or maybe a pseudonym (very celebrity like) ... ah well, not for
me to worry about and went to sleep early knowing that I had to get up
early and be at Prague Airport the following morning to pickup Kate ...
Mark Jones
Well, a refreshing sleep later, I woke up - checked the mobile and ...
worst fears confirmed - Gerogia and Spencer had checked into the
cheaper (equally well located) K+K Hotel in Prague! - good one. So
plopping on my thongs, shorts, and polo shirt (true Aussie tourist), I
headed down to the v.formal continental breakfast - wow! Breakfast is
my favourite meal (and one I rarely miss) and what a spread; so went
berserk and had cereal, bacon and eggs, and a pastry with 2 glasses of
orange juice and a cup of tea (this became the routine over the next 2
weeks - each breakfast). Right then into a taxi to Prague Airport
(again) to pick up Kate.
Second obstacle - after waiting (what seemed like ages, but could have
been an hour or so - never been the best person for waiting) received
an sms; Kate's baggage has been mislaid!! So out she came flustered and
a brief greeting ensued; a very strange airport experience - as I
hadn't seen this girl for over 3 months (and yet here she was) very
surreal. Once Lufthansa were organised (into getting things sorted!) we
headed back to ol' town Prague to finally meet up with Georgia and
Spencer.
Arrived back at the hotel and Kate wants to go shopping for clothes!! -
not a good sign; immediately I had visions of being trawled through
countless of nameless fashion boutiques throughout Europe! Fair enough
though as she had no other clothes (apart from the ones she flew in)
and it was already warm - a beautiful 25 degree sunny day. So a quick
detour later, and finally met Georgia and Spencer (and they agreed the
K+K Hotel, I was staying at was flash) - luckily I was earning Swiss
Francs. And at last, the I was a tourist and we headed out ... to have
a morning beer and catch up ;)
The rest of the day we wandered the streets of Prague seeing some
strange toilet art
http://www.flickr.com/photos/markyjones/259142389/in/set-72157594309979317/
and the crazy Charles bridge (possibly the most over-touristed
destination on the planet) before heading up to Prazky Hrad (Prague
Castle - the largest medieval castle complex in Europe). A truly
impressive complex, with a v.big St.Vitus cathedral - we took the
challenge and headed up the 300 steps or so (that spiral veered upwards
unendingly) to reveal a truly impressive view of Prague old town.
Exhausted from the days adventures, we grabbed a quick bite to eat at a
local restaurant and headed off for an early night.
Mark Jones
After a somewhat aimless, gypsy-like, random previous day, I decided we
definitely needed some organisation. Having done some research before
arriving to Prague (as any traveller brought up in the city of Lonely
Planet - i.e. Melbourne), I 'convinced' everyone to head to a little
cafe for brunch / morning coffee. So we arrived at Cafe Slavia on river
Vltava and enjoyed a rather good cappucino and the views of Prague
castle in the background. Post early morning banter, we headed out
about again in Prague - yes another stunning 20+ degree sunny day.
Spencer (with a very big SLR camera) looked all serious and started
getting into the act of being a professional photographer (although 3
months - post trip, yet to see any photos!!).
In keeping with the organised theme, we headed to the first (of many)
walking tours. Bianca was the guide - a rotund little native Czech who
had numerous little anecdotes about Czech people and the sites of the
city. A bit of a marathon, the walking tour went for 6 hours - notable
aspects to this:- Spencer wilted (from early morning photographic
efforts) and was back at the hotel post lunch; Georgia and Kate became
best buddies and shared in the reminiscing of similar backgrounds
(including singing the some primary school songs); we returned to
Prague castle again!; I became Bianca's favourite and aided in
corralling the 45 people on the walking tour; and we met a couple of
other English-speakers including a fellow cycling enthusiast 'Jack' who
I traded war stories with for the majority of the afternoon (including
arranging a post-walking tour beer).
Again, v.tired after a big day out; I was still keen to head to a local
Czech restaurant (outside of old Prague town which was v.touristy! and
infested with a stag party or two!) - so we jumped into a taxi (which
drived crazily as, we the tourists, directed him to the restaurant) and
headed to 'Aromi' which is supposedly a favourite amongst the chefs of
Prague for its fresh food. Well - fresh is correct! we were presented
with a plate of lots of fish (lobsters still alive) - scared off; we
ordered ... 4 gnocchis - v.adventurous! Then Spencer and I decided to
choose some wine; recognising only one shiraz we purchased - (I think
it equated to about a $250 bottle of wine) which, was not that
surprisingly, very nice. Finishing a fine meal we then headed to a
local bar (getting a taxi ordered by a v.friendly waiter from Aromi who
ensured that the taxi cost next to 0, which was handy after the wine
incident, and a good tip if I ever was in the Amazing Race; always let
locals do the talking!).
Landing in Radost F/X bar in Prague (I missed catching up with a beer
with Jack my walking tour buddy who was travelling by himself,
something, to this day, I am still guilty about) we were greeted with
some v.trendy local Czechs. Here a few beers, and a few absinthes
later: we found out how Spencer had wooed Georgia (by describing how he
was into charity events), how absinthe didn't cause hallucinations, but
was just a very strong alcoholic drink (although I seem to recall, I
was the only one drinking), and we bumped into some English medical
students who really entertained with a few awesome stories (I recall
one being about Sir Gawain).
Georgia and Spencer (being the oldies) started to tire, so me and Kate
headed to the dance floor - which was bit too tech. So back to the bar,
and I managed to make the classic mistake of letting the bar man make
us a drink; I foolishly insisted on it being with milk, and some blue
number was served (tasted curdled). This was the straw that broke the
camel's back and the four of us headed home: v.weary, slightly pissed
(some more than others ... aka me from the absinthe earlier in the
night).
Mark Jones
The last day of Spencer and Georgia; everyone was somewhat low-key when
we met up (even after another fabulous brekkie at the hotel) from the
previous day + night adventures. In line with this mood, we boarded a
horse and carriage and sat back in the tourist-land that is Prague old
town and were chauffeured around the sights. It was sunny, balmy again
(truly the weather in Prague was phenomenal)! As such, we continued the
theme of not doing much and boarded a boat cruise where we joined some
American oldies couple and lapped up the sun while cruising under the
Charles Bridge.
At last, it was time to say goodbye - so we met for a one final beer
and said our goodbyes. Au revoir - Spencer and Georgia - it was fun
hanging out in Prague, Czech Republic!
And then there were just two. So me and Kate began our travels ...
quite weary and exhausted from a big weekend - a quiet dinner and an
early night was had (as is Kate's wont!) and a big bombshell - the most
fatal words to any relationship were uttered 'I think I just want to be
friends' ...
Mark Jones
Woke up somewhat grumpy (as expected) and probably not the only one.
Kate and I, made our way to the Prague train station where we boarded
the 4.5 hour train ride to Bratislava, Slovakia. Mulling on the news
the night beforehand, I iPod'd up and tried to get some sleep (as I do
in trains). Not much chit chat, and in hindsight, it was the low light
of the 2 week odyssey.
At last, we finally made it to Bratislava where Kate thought she forgot
her mobile!! A mad dash back to the train, and I foolhardily jumped on
the train to find it (actually jumped on the wrong carriage, and indeed
I believe I headed in the wrong direction). Mid-flight as I was running
through the carriage, had the sixth sense to realise that the train may
leave soon, and jumped out, just prior to the train heading to ...
Dubrovnik - now that would have made it a disastrous day!
Got a v.expensive taxi to Narelle's flat (whom I had just met in
London, England a couple of weeks previously) and then waited for
another hour or so for the v.hard-working Narelle (she average 18-hour
days in the 2 days we stayed with her!!) to have a lunch break. Finally
all bags dumped we headed into Bratislava early afternoon; both of us -
'a bit over it'!
And along came 'Mark-Kate counselling 101'; mid-afternoon, Kate
suggested going to a pub to have a meal where we stayed ... for the
next 6 hours! This was faciliated by (i) it being a trendy little
lounge / beer garden; (ii) an almighty rain storm; (iii) a few pints
and a hearty feed and (iv) great bar music. And most importantly, a BIG
discussion was had, allowing both of us just to start sorting out what
we were doing travelling together. Around 8pm we finally de-hibernated
from the beer garden and walked through the streets of Bratislava - and
straight into ... night opera!! A really unexpected, fascinating and
enjoyable end to the night, as we sat with the other Bratislavans
listening to Mozart from Vienna!
Mark Jones
A new day, a new beginning - for Kate and I ... not quite ... but we
were both a lot happier after spending some quality one-to-one time the
day previously. Despite this, we were both sleepy (me from having been
woken the night previously by Kate's mobile) and Kate from having to
think about where she would be working when she got home from her 2
week holiday.
Nonetheless, having not seen much of Bratislava the day previously
(residing in a pub for the majority of the day!) I was keen to get out
and about. So, we headed out into the streets - and found out that
Bratislava was v.interesting! : it is quite small, has a number of
interesting statues situated throughout the old town, is v.friendly,
has quite a few v.trendy pubs / restaurants, was heavily favoured by
Maria Theresa (only female Empress of Austria and Habsburg ruler,
mother of Marie Antoinette, and probably one of Europe's leading female
rulers, after Catherine the Great who coincidentally ruled at the same
time), and it was relatively tourist-free after the madness of Prague,
Czech Republic.
So a pretty cruisy day where we just took it easy, an Internet cafe was
visited for the first time (to touch base back home) and on a somewhat
cold, wet day in Bratislava we tended to veer from one cafe to another
as we discussed the merits of various jobs (that Kate could take) and
all other things important (and not so important!).
Mark Jones
Enjoying the pace of Bratislava and Narelle's really nice flat - we
decided to stay one more day in Bratislava, and despite, having stayed
there for 2 days we hadn't actually seen that much (but had spent a lot
of time talking)!!
So again we headed out to Bratislava and went on a rather piss-weak
walking tour where we didn't really learn, or find out that much.
Nonetheless, with the weather on the improve, after 2 days of grey
skies, we were much more inclined to go a-wandering and we trekked up
the Bratislava castle to check out the view and the communist utopia
(i.e. concrete apartment blocs) on the horizon of Bratislava; what a
way to live!
Returned to the pub / lounge we had spent the majority of day 1 in
Bratislava and managed to spend more 'quality time' there as we had a
good dinner (and a few beers) and hung out with the cool kids of
Bratislava.
Mark Jones
Finally, we decided to leave Bratislava, and for the first time we
actually saw and caught up with Narelle (because we woke up early!).
Decided to avoid the v.expensive taxi and catch a tram to the train
station. On board a tram, us Melbourne kids felt at home - there was
even the tram freak (a gypsy mother who seemed to be promoting anti
social behaviour in her children who were systematically vandalising
everything in sight - v.funny, although somewhat disturbing). Feeling
v.independent and uber-knowledgeable for travelling like a local we
forgot one little detail ... yes - tickets!!! And Murphy's law - we
were busted by two rather unscrupulous Bratislavans who escorted us the
train station atm where we could withdraw the 60 euros we paid them
(indeed it could have been more, but have since buried this memory
very, very deep!).
So we left Bratislava - the time Kate and I had to have; on writing
this, I don't recall we actually did that much there (but strangely
recall it fondly), but there is no doubt we had sussed out each other a
lot more from when we had reacquainted in Prague, Czech Republic. Still
not completely at ease with each other, I vaguely recall having some
ideas on heading back to Zurich on the weekend that was looming for a
myriad of reasons (but predominantly because, I could travel around
Europe any time if I worked in Zurich, Switzerland).
So onward to Hungary, Budapest!
Mark Jones
The good weather returned - waking up in Hungary, Budapest at the
v.flash Hotel Gellert (well at least on the outside, in the inside it
resembled a very old hospital!), there were blue, sunny skies. Wow!
what a big European town, Hungary seemed to be - teeming with traffic,
hustle and bustle it was a wake-up after sleepy and grey Bratislava,
Slovakia.
So off to another walking tour - and here we met the best guide ever!!
Kata, a PhD student who passionately, intelligently, and patriotically
described the history of Hungary and why there was civil unrest outside
the Hungarian parliament each night we were there. A truly interesting
city, Hungary had been only independent since the late 1980s after
being subjugated by one empire or another for about 400 years. I found
out that Budapest had the first subway system in mainland Europe, that
the inventor of the Rubiks cube and the hologram were Hungarians, and
that the current President admitted that he openly lied to his people
(in bringing Hungary to the point of bankruptcy) yet still remained in
power??! A truly magnificent experience.
Post walking tour, we decided to enjoy the Gellert baths where we were
staying and spent an hour or two in the natural springs which while
relaxing were v.busy, and somewhat run down (funnily enough, we did not
go back to the baths on any of the other days we stayed in Budapest,
because of this; plus there was just so much to see and do!).
We then walked and walked and walked to a fine dinner up on the hill of
Budapest's castle, before calling it for the day.