Hoe lyk die ding vir julle? Werk dit maklik aan
julle kant? Moet ek dit verder verander of wat? Mopet ek aanhou soek
vir n alternatief?
This is a Ride report of a motorcycle trip I made recently. I travelled
from Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar to Nosy Be, the holiday
and sin capital of Madagascar and back.
I am a missionary in Madagascar. I teach at a theological seminary of
the FJKM, that is Ny Fiangonan' I Jesoa Kristy eto Madagasikara. The
Church of Jesus Christ in Madagascar. The FJKM is a reformed church of
the presbyterian fold.
Why did I go on this trip? (I am trying to be philosophical.)
There is something romantic about the whole road trip thing. Something
mythical and mystical.
You are also challenged to face your fears and doubts, well at least
some of them. Can I do this? What if the bike breaks down? What if I
crash? Do I have the skills to face the challenges? En n klomp ander
vrae.
The 19th I had a million good reasons for cancelling, but I did not!
haha!
Packed and ready. The odometer read 19229.8km and I
added 1807.5km by the time I got back here.
Day One I travelled from Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar to
Ambondromamy to the west. Only 399.3 km. But it took me a while.
The roads in Madagascar can be called many things,
but not straight! Imagine the Olivier's Hoek Pass. Now imagine a much
narrower road that is not nearly as straight, level or well maintained.
Don't forget to add the odd goat, zebu, chicken, duck or crazy
pedestrian. But most of all, remember that ALL other vehicles, two or
four wheeled, will treat you like SA taxis treat someone from a warring
taxi faction!
In Madagascar roads only have one side, and that is
the center! Everybody sticks to the center, straddling the white line
(if it is actually painted) like a thief that got stuck on a barbed
wire fence.
If you approach a blind corner, you stay away from
the centre, even if that is the best line, for the guy coming from the
other side WILL be on your side of the line. And as far as I know,
bikes tend to lose fights with four wheeled vehicles!
First stop was in Ankazobe (At the Big Tree). Had a
cup of Malagasy coffee. This coffee is used by to render nuclear waste
inert. It is that strong. But after 5 years I'm getting used to it.
Also I haven't slept for the last 4.99 years.
I have not been on this road before. The RN4, Nationale
4runs east west, from Tamatave to Mahajanga. And it is one of the
busiest roads on the island. And by the time I got to Ankazobe, I have
used up my quota of swear words for 2009.
Dodging trucks and taxis.
I stayed over in Ambondromamy for two nites, visiting a American
missionary. It's hot. With a humidity of about 7 000 000% And from
there on it got just worse. (I don't deal well with heat and humidity.
Sweat like a pig in a rubber suit!)
A picture of me and Daly. It was her birthday.
Malagasy kids are either scared of big white people, or very scared of
them. Daly and I became friends quite easily. Her grandmother is a
doctor in Ambondormamy, and my missionary friend lodges with them.
The next stretch was from Ambondromamy to Befotaka (Lots of Mud) about
340km to the north.
I crossed quite a few single lane bridges.

In Mampikony I had coffee and rice-cakes.
The lady on the left works at the local hotel. She
told me that they don't serve coffee and then led me across the road to
a coffee vendor. She kept me company and walked me back to the
motorbike.
This guy was fixing cellphones. I do not know why he
heated them over a coal fire. You know the expression "'n Boer maak 'n
plan' (A Boer finds a solution), well let me tell you the Malagasy are
light years ahead in that area. They can fix anything with a piece of
wire, cracked wood and a brown banana. I kid you not. Poverty, and not
neccesity, seems to be the mother of invention.
The road to the north has recently been re-tarred. It is wonderful now.
The 80-something stretch between Mampikony and Port Berge could take
anything from 10 hours to a week or more if you got stuck in the mud.
(No this is not a story. I know of a truck that took four months from
Ambondromamy to Diego in the north. Mud, mud mud.)

Now there is only about 40km of bad road. And it was pretty muddy. I
had only one aim: Don't fall! And that made me forget about the camera.
The mud was not deep mud, but as slippery as can be. You lose traction
just like that. This picture does not do the mud justice, but believe
me it was slippery!
You must always be on the look out for cattle. The zebu is actually a
kind of water buffalo.
Rice is the staple food in Madagascar. Rice for breakfast, lunch and
dinner. And rice cakes with you coffee as a snack. Most people grow
rice.
Kids doing their best Ninja impressions. To impress me or scare me? You
decide!
At the Hotely Aleloia I had some coffee. This is also where I noticed
that I lost my 5L jerry can! It just fell of!
The bridge over the Sofia river is 800m long. Quite a long bridges,
longest in Madagascar by far.
A while after crossing the bridge, I spotted this gecko! Poor guy
probably got onto the bike in Ambondromamy.
In Befotaka I noticed my weird tan. I wore elbow guards all the way and
not a jacket. And I forgot to put on sunscreen. Big mistake! Blisters!
Christmas Tree - Befotaka style
Vir die res vd storie http://jandreinmadagascar.wordpress.com/
Maar dit is vir my belangrik
dat ek hoor wat julle dink?