Port Gaskets

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

It is time to change the gaskets in the Atkinson & Hoyle ports on my 26. I have already flip them over so replacement is in the cards. According to the Atkinson & Hoyle site the gaskets are 3/8” in diameter for pre 1985 ports. They are a high density soft  durometer neoprene rod that they sell for $11 Cdn per foot. McMaster-Carr sells two 3/8” neoprene rods, one they call soft, durometer 50, $2.70 per foot and the other a durometer rate of 70, $1.38 per foot. I can’t find a durometer number on the A&H site.

M&C states the soft seals better. I am thinking of going with the  soft. It will take about 3’ per port.

Anyone with experience or thoughts on thes?

Mark Powers

[Mike Jennings]

I believe that 70 durometer is about the hardness of a hockey puck. 

Mike Jennings.

NSC5 Chancy.

Port Moody, BC.

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[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

Thinking that would be too hard. The articles I found indicate hockey pucks are in the 90-95 range. Here is a link I found discussing hardness for gaskets.

Mark Powers

https://breinerco.com/what-is-durometer-and-how-does-it-impact-gaskets-and-seals-2/

[Ernie Abugov P/O NS22 o/b #56 "Moustaches"]

IMHO - go with soft #50 from M&C. Cheapest option. At this rate, it's costing you $9.00 per port. IF, in time, they don't work out, replace them with the #70s. That will add another $4.00 per port. Worst possible outlay - $13.00 per port. As opposed to an immediate punitive outlay of $33.00 from good old Atkins and Hoyle.

Why are they SO greedy, I ask you ??

Ernie A. in Toronto

[Bob Gehrman]

I used this foam rod and it works great in my 1987. 

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/8605K124

Bob Gehrman 

NS30U #396 “Quickbeam “

Baltimore Maryland 

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[Don Crossley]

Mark,

To do gaskets on my deck hatches, I ordered gasket material online from Granger Canada, and picked up from their Burnaby store to save shipping cost. Much cheaper than Atkins & Hoyle. I don't know if they have size you need for portlights, but worth a look. McMaster-Carr, being US, means extra costs with dollar exchange, shipping, customs brokerage.... etc.

Product was rubber seal from Trim Lok, search on Grainger.

I also used a 3M double sided tape to attach gasket to portlight frame. Its used in automotive industry and repair shops to attach mouldings and other bits to car exteriors. Very easy to use, got it at Canadian Tire. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3m-automotive-exterior-attachment-tape-6-3-mm-x-4-5-m-0477606p.html?rq=3m+tape  See photo, frame with 3m tape, before gasket.

Hope that helps,

Don

PS - having some trouble with my email, part of this message maybe repeated.

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[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

Thank you Don, that does help. Grainger in Burnaby has the 3/8” (.38”) round on back order. It is suppose to be available in Sept.
25’ for $36.75 or  $1.47per foot Cdn. I was able to find it with a search of Trim Lok. Would not have found it otherwise.

Mark Powers

[Mark Nerenhausen]

we are replacing our gaskets and have two additional questions for those who have done it already.  1. what do you use to clean the old adhesive off on the groove in the port?.  2. what adhesive do you recommend?

Mark Nerenhausen

Cloud Hidden

Nonsuch 30U,  #370

New Bern, NC

[Tim R]

Is this size for the 7 cabin ports or for the 2 cabintop hatches?  We need to redo the 7 cabin ports on our 1986 NS26Ue.

Tim in STL
White O’morn NS e26U #216
Harbor Point Yacht Club
West Alton, MO

[Greg Silver]

Mark, I renewed Atkins and Hoyle hatches on my Hinterhoeller Niagara 35 a few years ago, same hardware as our Nonsuches. I cut out most of the old gasket with a knife, taking care not to scratch the alloy frame, then used a plastic scraper which I shaped to fit in the groove to peel off most of what was still stuck, then I used an old toothbrush and acetone to get the rest  out. Wear goggles, gloves and. long sleeves, etc. for this to protect yourself from acetone. I used Silaprene adhesive sealant to fasten the gasket back in. Here's a link to a little video I made at the time showing the process of fastening the gasket in .  https://www.facebook.com/CapeBretonSailing/videos/2071593972890824

Greg Silver

Misty Cat, 26C #121

St. Peter's, Cape Breton

Nova Scotia

[Bob Gehrman]

Mark -

Getting the old adhesive off is the hardest part of the job. I found that a wooden dowel wrapped in sandpaper worked the best. You might also try some Debond Marine Formula spray to help, but elbow grease is the real key.

3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive 08008 holds the foam well. Don't be sparing with it - you want it to cover the cavity pretty well and put pressure on the assembly until it cures.

Good luck!

Bob Gehrman

NS36 #52 "Fortunate"

Greenwich Bay, Rhode Island

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[Joe Valinoti]

I’d be careful not to get Acetone on the deck or cabin top.  so, there is a Acetone alternative with the same cleaning properties but not hazardous.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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[Bill M]

Try denatured alcohol for cleaning. I used it to redo my cabin top and forward port light hatches. Put it on with rag and let it soak for a couple of minutes. Used a wire brush in a Dremel tool to get off the last residue. I used 50 durometer on the cabin top. The portlight was smaller diameter and I forget what durometer I sued, 70 or 75 and that is too stiff. My wife has a hard time closing that portlight. It is getting easier as the gasket conforms. Definitely doesn't leak. As an aside I made some wooden shims to put between the cabin top and the liner so I could tighten the screws without deforming the fiberglass.

Bill Mortensen

NS30U #335

Noank, CT

[peter farley]

I am looking at doing this also. Can someone share how they get the port lids off the base? Mine appears to have a long pin with a spring in the middle. I was afraid to just drive the pin out.

Thanks 

Peter Farley 

Knot in a hurry # 328 30u

Keyport nj

[tedsdad]

If the ports are ones that open fully, i.e. almost 180 degrees open, then you're OK to drive the pin out. The problem with ones that only open about 100 degrees will be getting the spring back on during reassembly.

Ed Cook

Chat-eau, N26c, #173

Middle River, MD

Sent from my Galaxy

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[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

Not the best a

Roach but I found that I could pull the old gasket and secure the new one with clear DAP sealant. The old sealant used by A&D stayed attached to the frame and accepted the DAP. Remember all the sealant is doing, is holding the gasket in place when the port is open. 

Don Crossley told me he used 3M double sided tape. I tried but if the metal wasn’t scrupulously clean the tape would not stick. The DAP was more forgiving and was thick enough it did not run or come off of the frame. I replaced most of the seals with the frame in place. 

I am with Ed, if the ports don’t open 180 degrees you really should remove the port from the boat to allow it to fully open. It is possible to drive the pin out with the port in place but getting it back in with the spring in the right place is a lesson in humility and provides an opportunity to increase you vocabulary.

Mark Powers

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

“not the best approach” That is what meant to type.

Mark Powers

[Sprio]

I removed the ports (all 10 of them) and reinstalled them twice, and found that getting the lid off while the ports are still installed is easier than getting the lid off once they're out. This is because, when the ports are still in the boat, you don't need any help holding them down while tapping the pin out. Once the ports are on your desk, it becomes a two-man job.

Also, installing the port (base) in the boat is an easier job when the lid is off. You don't have to fight the lid getting the bolts in, and you don't have to hold that extra weight while doing so. I found that getting the pin in afterward, did not give me a headache, it was very doable.

To get the pin out, I hammered the first inches with a pen driver. When the driver would go no further, I grabbed the pin with a Vice grip, hitting the Vice to hammer the rest of the pin out. Not a hard job, even with the springs not cooperating.

Only one BUT is, that (in case of a N36) at least one porthole does not have enough space next to it to allow getting the pin fully out. In this case you have two options, get the port out of the boat or get creative...

mark h

n36#25

netherlands

Op zondag 24 november 2024 om 22:21:08 UTC+1 schreef tedsdad: