Propane leak

[Bob]

I decided after 37 years to replace the propane supply hoses, pressure gauge, regulator, solenoid, and propane sniffer on my NS 30C.   My question is about checking for leaks.  The system passed the soapy water test.  Notes in Boat US information about this task state that the system must hold pressure for a minimum of 3 minutes.  The original Seaward stove info states that the system must hold pressure for 15 minutes.  I suppose that if the pressure begins to drop ever so slightly after 3 min or 15 min, whichever I choose, there is no need for concern.  This puzzles me because the pressure does, in fact, slowly drop to zero after several hours.  This tells me that propane is escaping into the bilge.  Doesn't sound safe to me!!  I will appreciate some advice.  Also I have noticed that the solenoid does heat up a bit (feels hot to the touch) when turned on to allow propane to pass through.  Is this normal?  

Thank you!

Bob McPeek

Pau Hana, NS30C

[Thor Powell Mariner's Cat V 26C Brentwood Bay BC]

The solenoid switch consumes the most power on our boat, fortunately never open for very long. As for the leak down.  We open the tank valve then the solenoid, use the appliance, shut the tank, and let for example the stove burn out... the turn the solenoid off. 

Several hours, being less than 3 may be a  concern. I have a propane expert coming by tomorrow, I will ask him....

T

[Mark Powers]

We follow the same practice as Thor. We also have a length of red wool tied around the propane line in the propane locker. When we open the valve on the tank the wool is draped over the edge of the locker. When the valve is turned off we tuck the wool back in the locker. This give us a visual  reminder to shut the tank off. The valve on the tank is only open while we are using an appliance and we burn off the propane in the line when we are done. 

Leak down tests show it takes several hours for the pressure to fully drop in the lines. My guess is that the most likely point for lose of pressure is the galley stove. Propane is explosive when the propane to air mixture is between 2% and 10%. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/explosive-concentration-limits-d_423.html

Mark Powers

La Reina 26C

Vancouver, B.C.

[Thor Powell Mariner's Cat V 26C Brentwood Bay BC]

The installer came today and here is the info.

The soap test, the 3 minute rule, because it can take time for bubbles to form.

The system should hold pressure and he would not accept the kind of loss you are experiencing.

He thinks there may be a leak at the on off controls of an appliance . His suggestion is to cap the lines, then check. This eliminates any defects in the line and attached terminal fittings.  Then connect one appliance at a time and wait for the culprit to appear

Thor

[Robert Mcpeek]

For 20+ years I followed the same procedure as you.  The Paloma heater died and I purchased an Excel which does not have a pilot.  I decided it was a good time to replace all the hoses, wiring, regulator, solenoid, sniffer, pressure gauge, etc.  I hired a propane guy who was recommended to me, but he was a real disaster. I haven't been able to find anyone who understands the propane system on a boat.  Of course, propane collecting in the bilge is the problem.  

     I have two propane hoses from the locker, one for the water heater and one for the stove.  Each has a shutoff valve in the propane locker. I connected the propane tank to this plumbing with both valves shut off  in the locker and the solenoid on. I used the commercial leak test solution that I purchased.  No leaks.  

     Pressure gauge read 140 lbs.  It held 140 lbs for 10 minutes.  

     After 10 more minutes it read 135lbs. and held at 135 for a total of 40 min 

     After 40 minutes it slowly began to drop tp 130 lbs. 

     After 55 min it dropped to 120 lbs.

     Atfter 60 minutes it had dropped to 125 lbs.   

So, it lost 15 lbs of pressure in 60 minutes 

   According to Thor's installer, at the same ambient temperature  there must be no pressure loss for hours, days, weeks...  

Connecting the two hoses is my next step.  It seems to me that with a water heater  that does not have a pilot  this hose must experience no loss in pressure over time.   I will always shut off the propane tank when the water heater and/or stove are not in use.   When I return to the boat after leaving it for an extended time, the water heater should just fire up right after I turn on the propane tank and the hot water faucet.     

    I think I understand. Is my explanation and conclusion above correct?  

Thanks,

Bob McPeek,NS30C, Pau Hana

San Francisco. 

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[Thor Powell Mariner's Cat V 26C Brentwood Bay BC]

Makes sense. Plug the lines at the terminal end in the boat with a cap. If it leaks plug it at the point where the lines connect to the devices in the locker.

My installer mentioned that regulators can sometimes leak, so pour some dish soap around and over the regulator may be a good first step before starting on the lines.   IMHO it should not be dropping in this manner.

T

[Tom Schoenhofer North Star 26C#28 Penetang]

I'm not a gas fitter. This is just my observation.

The pressure gauge at 110 psi is between the tank and the regulator. After the regulator the propane pressure should be very low. A very tiny leak is difficult to find at this pressure.

With the appliance off, solenoid off(after the gauge) and tank valve off the 100 to 120 psi at the tank in summer will drop 20 to 30psi by breakfast. How fast seems to depend on change in ambient temperatures so maybe this drop is because the tank is colder in the morning. I have never seen 140psi but maybe it's hotter in San Francisco as that is propane vapor pressure at 85 deg F. At our more usual 70 deg F propane vapor pressure is 110psi.

However, after a week the gauge always reads 0.

I've been told that the rubber hoses leak propane very slowly. I could not find a leak with soapy water. I find this leaking hard to believe but that appears to be what's happening. It's disturbing because if it is leaking where does it go? Propane is 50% heavier than air. If the gauge reads 0 the solenoid valve must also be leaking. At 0.5psi there isn't much gas in the 12 feet of hose so I'm not worried.

After a week, the hose seems to be empty of gas or has gas in it that is below the required concentration to ignite at the stove so the line has to be bled for 10 to 15 seconds. If the stove is used once a day or even after two days, no bleeding required.

Where this was a pain was the Paloma. I had to hold the pilot button down for ages before it would purge the hose and light after leaving the boat for a week. My insurance company made me remove the Paloma. Solved that problem.

Other boats with propane stoves have the same issue so I thought this was normal.

I also try to remember to close the tank valve whenever I'm not using the stove.

Leaving the solenoid on, draws 1 amp, and it can get nice and warm.

I definitely need a new sniffer after 39 years.

Tom

26C #28

Penetanguishene

[Thor Powell Mariner's Cat V 26C Brentwood Bay BC]

I get 100 psi on a full tank like Tom. After the tank pressure s  really does not drop until nearly empty. But when it drops iit is a sigh we are close to empty.   Ambient temps in the mid 70's F  We never leave the tank open for very long so I have no idea what the leak down may be. 

[rjmc...@aol.com]

Thor, Mark and Tom,

I thank all of you for your thoughts and suggestions.  Have any of you installed an automatic tankless water heater such as the Excel? If yes, does the gas line need to be bled or purged whenever the water heater has not been used for a few days due to the "automatic" loss of pressure in the gas line, or do you just turn on the hot water faucet and let the battery powered  lighter click away for a minute or two?  ? 

Bob

On Wednesday, October 28, 2020 at 2:10:50 PM UTC-7 rjmc...@aol.com wrote:

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

Bob,

La Reina came to me with a Wolter on demand propane fired water heater. I replaced it with an Excel  heater. I do not have to bleed the line to use the heater.  I turn on the water and can hear the igniter click briefly and then hear the propane ignite. It fires up much quicker than the stove top. Typically it fires up within 5 to 10 seconds. Usually in the 5 second range even after the propane and heater have not been used for a few weeks.

Mark

[Thor Powell Mariner's Cat V 26C Brentwood Bay BC]

I plan to install a Excel in the spring... took out the old one P a few years ago. 

On Saturday, October 31, 2020 at 3:18:29 PM UTC-7 rjmc...@aol.com wrote:

[Robert McPeek]

Hi Mark,

This is very helpful. Do you turn off the propane when you leave the boat?  

Bob

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 1, 2020, at 10:32 AM, Thor Powell Mariner's Cat V 26C Brentwood Bay BC <thor....@gmail.com> wrote:

I plan to install a Excel in the spring... took out the old one P a few years ago. 

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[Katmando]

Even though Katmando has a propane detector I make it a point to turn off the propane at source when I am not using it.  

Brian McCuaig. NS30u

Whitby, Ontario

“Having a yacht is reason for being more cheerful than most." 

On Nov 1, 2020, at 15:19, 'Robert McPeek' via INA Nonsuch Discussion Group <INA-Nonsuch-Di...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

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[Julian Smith]

Just a comment about the Excel propane heater: early last season, Leda's would not light. Perusing the instruction manual (or maybe this forum, I can't remember which), I read that low water pressure may be a cause for lack of ignition. One replacement pump impeller later, I was back in business.

Julian Smith

Leda

N26C

Shelburne, VT

[Robert Mcpeek]

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From: Julian Smith <julian...@gmail.com>
To: INA Nonsuch Discussion Group <INA-Nonsuch-Di...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Sun, Nov 1, 2020 2:45 pm
Subject: Re: Propane leak

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[Robert Mcpeek]

Thank you, Julian.  This is very helpful information, and possibly will save me a lot of time someday.

Bob McPeek

Pau Hana

NS30C

San Francisco

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Sent: Sun, Nov 1, 2020 2:45 pm
Subject: Re: Propane leak

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[Robert Mcpeek]

Hi Brian,

Thanks.  I do the same.  Does your on demand water heater, perhaps an Excel, light right up without having to bleed the line?

Bob McPeek

Pau Hana 

NS30C

San Francisco

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Sent: Sun, Nov 1, 2020 1:03 pm
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[Jim Cosgrove]

I don’t know how old Julian’s Excel water heater is, but a few years ago Excel came out with a new model that is lights even with very low water pressure. I had been having some issues so I upgraded to the new model and have had zero problems since then. 

Jim Cosgrove

FATE 30U #343

Galesville, MD 

Sent from my iPad

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[Katmando]

Yes except if the boat hasn’t been used for a few weeks. Then I just light the stove for a few minutes.

Cheers

Brian McCuaig. NS30u

Whitby, Ontario

“Having a yacht is reason for being more cheerful than most." 

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[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

We turn the propane off at the tank after I finish with the appliance, stove or water heater.  There is a plastic note by the stove to remind me. If we are leaving the boat or going for a sail we burn off the propane in the line.

MArk

[Peter Grabow]

Hi JIm,

Which Excel Model # did you buy?

What size is your LPG line? - my originals read 3/8"...

What is the gas line fitting size?  It appears that the Low Pressure Excel has 1/2" gas fitting... if your line is 3/8", where did you find a fitting to step-up the connection?

I am looking to replace my still working original Paloma that has a pilot light to make the water heater compliant/safer. Someone had mentioned an Excel unit that was an 'drop-in' replacement for the Paloma (but I can't find the info in the threads)... Can someone provide this info please?

I already have a flue for the Paloma and want to connect the new unit to this flue... though the Excel is 'no vent' is one able to connect it to the vent? I, again, cannot locate where someone said they did this - is it pretty straight forward?

I am not comfortable without venting to the outside...

Thank you,

Peter Grabow

S/V CAKE WALK III

1987 30U 430

Jersey City, NJ

[Ernie Abugov N22 - #56 "Moustaches" Toronto]

Peter -

I think that the installation that you are trying to find is the one done by Paul Miller, on Sandpiper (not Sandpaper ... ).

Ernie A. in Toronto

[Paul Miller]

Might have been me Peter. I used a household heating boot with minor modifications to connect my Excel to the old Paloma vent. The Excel had to be shimmed off the bulkhead about a half to three quarters of an inch but actually used two out of three of the old mounting holes.

Paul M

NS30U #211, Sandpiper 

Cowichan Bay, B.C.

[Peter Grabow]

Thanks Ernie!

[Peter Grabow]

Thank you Paul -

I do recall seeing that photo.

How did you connect the Excel's 1/2" NPT Male connection to what appears to be the correct LGP hose line that has a 3/8" swivel female flair connection?

Peter 

[Paul Miller]

II do remember having to get a transition fitting for it but don’t remember exactly what it was. It wasn’t hard to find though. 

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Paul M
NS30U #211, Sandpiper

Cowichan Bay B.C.

[Paul Miller]

I had a look but couldn’t find the fitting. What I did find was a picture of the spacers I used to shim the Excel to match the position of the Paloma vent if that might help you.

[Mike BIANKA]

Several years ago I dismantled the stove on my NS after discovering severe corrosion in the burner area. I now use a single burner cook top  with 1 pound Propane canisters. Easier to find than getting a 20 pound tank refilled when cruising.  Has not affected my cooking needs. My 12 inch cast iron fry pan fits better on it too. Four canisters seems to last the whole season. Also have a portable Butane stove should I need an additional burner but, never needed it. 

[Peter Grabow]

Thanks Paul. The visual is very helpful.

I looked at my Paloma and there appear to be a step-down fitting connecting the 1/2" on the Paloma to the 3/8" LPG hose.  I will either try to find those (perhaps Excel has them) or if it comes apart easy enough and looks to be in good shape, maybe I will reuse it.

Right now I am going to hold off on the new water heater until I can be sure of all parts/fittings/connections. 

I am going to replace the regulator/gauge/solenoid in the propane locker now.

Peter

On Sunday, March 28, 2021 at 11:39:34 AM UTC-4 sandpip...@gmail.com wrote:

[Peter Grabow]

Hi Mike,

Hope you are well!  Thanks for the input. 

While undertaking this propane project, I will be certain to check the stove for issues.  I have given a cursory review in the past but nothing in-depth. If I find issues similar to what you found, I may go the same route as you.

Peter

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

Mike,

4 pounds for a season! A number of possibilities come to mind: you are eating out too much, you are not eating enough, you are on a liquid diet, your sailing season is too short or some combination of the three.

Peter,

I installed a 5.5 litre per minute Excel and used the vent from the previously installed Wolter heater.

Mark Powers

[Mike]

Mark

I'm certainly not having a problem getting calories into the system while on board. That's part of the problem.:) Number one priority is coffee in the morning of course. Though with 10 kilowatts of battery on board making fresh bread with the 48 volt inverter and a bread maker makes for delicious sandwiches. Of course some rum flavored bbq chicken always hits the spot in the evening. I do usually have a stockpile of frozen homemade sauces and broths that I can pull out of the home refrigerator and bring on board. I also will occasionally go ashore for lunch if I'm in a port that has a restaurant that entices me. Though I prefer dinners on board after enjoying the sunset.

Another reason I'm able to minimize propane use is I took out the Paloma water heater and did not replace it. I have found the solar heated bucket is enough most days along with the occasional marina shower if available. If I do want a hot shower inside the boat (or in the cockpit) I use a portable Coleman Hot Water heater: https://biankablog.blogspot.com/2009/07/in-hot-water.html

 

Mike

BIANKA

1986 30U

biankablog.blogspot.com 

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group/0495dcc4-20df-40c5-a4eb-567c4fef88ffn%40googlegroups.com

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[Mike]

Peter:

Yeah, I had a yikes moment when I did the inspection of the burners. 

https://biankablog.blogspot.com/2014/04/rethinking-propane-use-on-board.html

The single burner idea was going be temporary but, I found it worked out quite well. No more guessing how much propane is left in the tank as long as I have at least 1 pound propane canister in the propane locker I have several weeks of propane use. Also allowed for much more storage in propane locker with the tanks removed. Now a quick trip to just about any hardware or department store and I can restock as needed. The second butane backup unit allows me to have an alternate source of fuel too in the unlikely event a propane canister is not available.

Mike

BIANKA

1986 30U

biankablog.blogspot.com 

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group/1334894501.783824.1617016427587%40mail.yahoo.com

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[ronw...@rocketmail.com]

I couldn't locate a Origo non pressure alcohol gimballed stove top as either new or used, so I purchased a Eno propane model. I decided against the idea of a single tank for the reasons stated above, plus the only tank I could find to fit my locker was only 5 or 6 lbs. I can get that many 1 lb bottles in the locker. I used a single hose connection from the locker to the stove with 3/8 fitting on the stove end and standard propane bottle connector on the locker end. I used a short hose with adaptor and shut off valve to connect the 1 lb bottle.  As a safety precaution I do not leave the bottle attached when not in use, and have special brass caps with a seal to replace the original plastic caps.

I have used the Origo non-pressure stoves for years and have always been happy with them, but it seems that some EU regulations have made them impractical to manufacture in Europe and no one else builds a similar product. Too bad.

Ron Weber

N22 Magic Time

Punta Gorda Fl 

[Peter Grabow]

Hi Mike -

Apologies for my delayed response. Was busy getting the boat ready for the earliest sail ever - April 4th!!!

I appreciate the additional input. Your Bianka Blog has always been a source of great information - many thanks for sharing!!

Peter

[Peter Grabow]

Hi Paul,

I purchased the low-pressure propane water heater from Excel. Thank you, the others, for the recommendation.

The new Excel unit came with the fitting to connect to the 3/8" gas line, so that is taken care of.

1) What material did you use to make the spacers shown in your photo?

2) Did you use HVAC Duct Tape to secure the hood to the heater and the original chimney?  Most HVAC duct tapes have a mx temp of around 265 degrees F, but I found one that has a temp rating of 325 degrees F...  any idea how hot the exhaust from the heater gets?

Thanks!

Peter Grabow

S/V CAKE WALK III

1987 30 Ultra 430

Jersey City, NJ

On Sunday, March 28, 2021 at 11:39:34 AM UTC-4 sandpip...@gmail.com wrote:

[Paul Miller]

Hi Peter,

I used some Baltic Birch plywood I had around by the looks of it. Any plywood would be fine. I just have the boot fitted snug above the heater, no tape. It took a little alteration but it fits fairly well. The exhaust is hot and really wants to go up. I have a CO/CO2 sensor right near it and have never had an alarm.

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[Peter Grabow]

Hi Paul -

Thanks for the quick response!

Do you think that I would be taking an undue risk if I used the old Paloma vent hood, which is slightly wider front to back but slightly shorter from side to side than the Excel unit, and sealed all around with the HVAC high tempurature tape?  I am not one for mickey-mousing with something that could be potentially dangerous...

Do you recall what the dimensions on the hood you used are?

I know the vent-tube hole has a 4"ID, and the exterior of the Excel measures 4 3/4" front to back and 11 3/8" side to side - but I am having difficulty finding a vent hood/register that is maybe 12" x 5" but with a 4" round connection -

Peter

[Paul Miller]

As I remember it was wide enough but not quite long enough so maybe 4”x11”.

I used it for a year before I altered it.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group/766c689d-43e3-4c3f-bd26-ad73ea4264edn%40googlegroups.com.

[Paul Miller]

I think you would be fine with the old Paloma hood. It likely doesn’t even need the tape.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group/766c689d-43e3-4c3f-bd26-ad73ea4264edn%40googlegroups.com.

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

On La Reina I used the existing hood from the Wolter heater with the Excel. I used some duct work sheet metal to make a small plate/chimney that fits on top of the Excel and inside the hood. I don't have sheet metal working tools so it is not pretty but it works and is hidden from view.

Mark Powers

[Peter Grabow]

Thank you Paul and Mark for this additional input! Very helpful... I now seem to have options.

I would prefer to use the orginal hood from the Paloma, as it is a robust piece of hardware and I know it fits the chimney perfectly.  Again, my only concern is that the side to side is a little short in lenght and leaves a gap on either end of about 11/16ths of an inch where hot exhaust can escape into the cabinet instead of going up the flue.

I will look at this more carefully over the next few days to see if I can alter it similar to what you have done, and if not, will get a hood similar to what yo both have done and work that to fit.

Again, thank you!

Peter Grabow

S/V CAKE WALK III

1987 30 Ultra 430

Jersey City, NJ

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

Peter,

You should be able to use the Paloma hood without modifying it. I sounds like it is a better fit for the Excel than the Wolter hood. 

I had a drill, a set of tin snips and a pair of linesmen pliers to make the adaptor. I did not use the existing Excel vent top because I did not want to mess it up but you could easily modify it by some judicious cutting and bending to make some vertical tabs. Then cut a  flat strip of sheet metal to make a vertical collar that goes around the tabs to form a short chimney that will fit inside the Paloma hood. Use a few sheet metal screws or pop rivets to attach the chimney to the tabs. You can seal the joint between the Excel plate and the chimney with aluminium tape (not duct tape).

Mark Powers

[Peter Grabow]

Hi Paul and Mark -

An update - and again, thank you for all of your input/suggestions and encouragement.

I bought a HVAC register box to use as a new venthood, just in case I couldn't make the old Paloma venthood fit.  I wanted to reuse the Paloma venthood if possible as it is a much more robust unit than the HVAC register box.

Good news is that I was able to modify the Paloma venthood with some tinsnips and careful bending to fit the top of the Excel so only the tiniest (and I mean tiny) amount of the Excel top opening wasn't covered by metal. I secured the entire venthood to the Excel with HVAC foil tape that has a high temperature rating (325 degrees F) and it also covered those tiny corner openings.  I measured the total height very carefully to make sure that the venthood sat low enough into the Excel to allow for it to join with the chimney tube and still align with the existing bottom bolts.

I had some left over plywood from making shelves for the bowlocker in my new dinghy, and made a layered sandwich to reproduce the spacers Paul showed in a photo.

The hardest part was lining up the new, top bolt with the bracket on the Excel - probably would have been easier with two people!

The rest of the parts for upgrading the entire propane system are intransit, but I made the water connections to the new Excel, and after making a slight adjustment for a bit of water leaking at a connection, all seems to work well.  You can even hear the igniter click on and off as the water is turned on and off... all it needs is some propane!

Here are a few shots -

Peter Grabow

S/V CAKE WALK III

1987 30 Ultra 430

Jersey City, NJ

[Peter Grabow]

Hello All -

A special thanks again to Paul, Jim, Mark, Ernie, and Mike for your input above on the above water heater project. Your guidance/suggestions made this project much easier!!

We finally used the new Excel water heater under actual overnight/on the anchor conditions... WOW! what a difference!!! The low psi water pressure startup is great! No switch to repeatedly turn to try to spark the pilot (because there isn't one)... just turn on the gas tank at the helm, flip the solenoid switch, and turn on a faucet... Hot water!!! it so easy!!! and the water temp seemed to be much more consistent than the old Paloma, which made showering a lot nicer!!

Peter Grabow

S/V CAKE WALK III

1987 30 Ultra 430

Jersey City, NJ

[Joe Valinoti]

On my engine heated setup, no valves, no switches, just turn the faucet on!!

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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[Ernie Abugov N22 - #56 "Moustaches" Toronto]

Joe -

On my little NS22, things are simple (wellll ..... um .... sort of). No hot water and no "running" pumped water. But, if I did have it, I'd go your route - engine heated H2O.

We've hired lots of narrowboats and small Penichettes, etc. in the UK and Europe and those 25 - 35 HP Beta and Nanni engines heated that water to scalding and kept it that way for 24 hours+. Dead simple and very effective.

Ernie A. in Toronto

[Peter Grabow]

Hi Joe!

I did consider switching to your set-up... the engine heated water tank, as it has worked very well for you. And certainly has it's advantages.

However, since I was already replacing the rest of the propane system it seemed simpler to replace part for part rather than install a different set-up.

In addition, we have a tendency to spend 2 or 3 nights in a row on anchor, and not having to run the engine after a full day or two of quiet was a factor as well.

30 hours (or any length of time) after dropping anchor, we can have a hot shower, wash dishes, etc without any waiting or engine running...

Best regards,

Peter

On Wednesday, June 9, 2021 at 6:20:37 PM UTC-4 joes...@gmail.com wrote:

[Joe Valinoti]

By taking Navy showers, we can get two days.  ‘course, I had a lot of practice in the 36 years I spent in that canoe club.

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

 

Joe

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[Philip Dearden]

Joe, sorry if you've already posted this but do you have a diagram of your engine-heated system and how you set it up? I've had all kinds of systems over the years and prefer the simplicity of the engine heat system...but how to implement on a 26C?

Phil

S/V Cato NS26C 

Salt Spring Island BC

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

Phil,

Go to the Nonsuch Photo Gallery and the 26C Group. Look up Catbert. There are some photos of his engine driven hot water system. Just remember that any unit you buy has to be able to fit through the locker opening.  With the heater above the engine you have to install a header tank above the water heater.

Mark Powers

[Philip Dearden]

Thanks Mark....I guess this also adds weight! You'd recommend the Excel I guess?

Still waiting for the holding tank replacement....

Phil

Dr Philip Dearden

Professor 
Department of Geography
University of Victoria
PO Box 3060
Victoria, BC
Tel 250 721 7335 (work).

http://www.uvic.ca/socialsciences/geography/people/faculty/deardenphilip.php

               

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[Joe Valinoti]

Phil:  I’m not sure of the space you have behind the engine on a 26.  Enclosed are photos of my 6 gallon unit located below the cockpit.  I also gained another dorade/vent and much more storage above the galley.

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

The layout on the 26C does not really allow for mounting behind the engine. It wold block service access to the engine. I think the best location is at the back of the cockpit lockers like the placement on Catbert. 

Joe,

 what is the terminal clamp used for in the first photo you posted? 

Mark Powers

[Joe Valinoti]

That is an old picture.  It was a clip, no longer used, to connect the oil sump pump.  It now has a switch. 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

~~~~~(\_ ~(\_ ~(\_~~~~~~~~~~

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[Philip Dearden]

Thanks Joe...as Mark pointed out, it may be more of a challenge in the 26!

Phil

Dr Philip Dearden

Professor 
Department of Geography
University of Victoria
PO Box 3060
Victoria, BC
Tel 250 721 7335 (work).

http://www.uvic.ca/socialsciences/geography/people/faculty/deardenphilip.php

               

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[Robert Mcpeek]

I installed my new EXCEL. When I turn on the hot water I get hot water in about a minute. The digital temp gage on the tank then begins to move into high temps fast, something begins to crackle and pop, the flame goes out and the EXCEL shuts down, the temp gage heads down slowly and within a few minutes the heater still won't light.  I assume it's a safety switch.  Can someone explain what's happening and tell me how to fix it? 
Thanks,

Bob McPeek

Pau Hana, NS30C

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[Paul Miller]

That almost sounds like what happens if you don’t have your water pressure turned on.

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[Robert Mcpeek]

Nope, Water pressure is on and hot water coming out the faucet.  

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[Joe Valinoti]

Guys:  Consider changing your subject line to Excell water heater.

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

 

Joe

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