3/8 reefing lines still recommended?

[Jeff Fongemie]

We were experimenting with the reefing setup on my new-to-us NS26 Ultra. After running the 3/8" reefing line through the cringles and hauling up the sail, there seemed to be a significant increase in friction - yes the choker and was loose.

We then added small blocks to the cringles on the leech, which helped slightly, but I'm not keen on the idea of blocks flapping in the wind.

Looking for improvements, my existing reefing lines are old and stiff, so new, more supple lines would likely be beneficial. I'm also wondering if I should switch to a smaller diameter, low-stretch line. Has anyone tried 5/16" with something like Sta-Set? The 3/8" seems too bulky for the job.

Jeff

1986 Nonsuch 26 Ultra
Maine

[Jeff Fongemie]

Digging deeper, I did find one person on this list using 5/16. 

I'm wondering if the benefit of is worth the tradeoff to the feel-in-hand with the smaller diameter? 

[Joe Valinoti]

The smaller the line, the harder it is to grip.  Particularly in heavy air.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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[newelljc9]

Has anybody tried using dyneema for the reefing pennants and splicing it into a standard rope on the deck? This should reduce friction while not compromising grip in heavy weather. My rig only requires a single reefing pennant per reef which I tend to set before leaving the mooring and raising the sail. Since the rig is well balanced, I have never needed to double reef yet. I do use a small block at the tack, but only use the cringle on the roach. Friction is not an issue, even at my age. 

John Newell

Mascouche 26C #1

Toronto

On Saturday, September 13, 2025 at 7:57:29 AM UTC-4 Jeff Fongemie wrote:

[John Barbour - Nature 26U Toronto]

Every fall, I remove my running lines and wash them. It's surprising how dirty the water becomes, and the lines stay relatively soft.  

John Barbour

Nature 26 U

Toronto

[Thor Powell, Nonsuch 26, Victoria BC]

Definitely you can go down one size with modern lines in all applications these days.  I have blocks at the  tack and they work well. But I not on the leech, not sure I want them flopping around and besides I have a larger leech. .  Some folks are trying friction rings on the leech.  I have used dyneema in a cam cleat but in a winch I think you'd need a cover.  

[Rob Cohen "Soave" NS33 Westport, CT]

John, 

Regarding your idea about splicing dyneema reefing pennants.  Back when we were racing Flying Scots folks used to make ultra light spinnaker sheets with dyneema cored rope with polyester cover.  They would strip the cover off the sail end of the sheet.  For the transition you bury some of the cover in the core. ( Here ) is a video showing an example.  

Same principle could apply for the reefing line, but I'm not sure I see the need for slippery reefing lines as clearly as other folks. 

Rob

s/v SOAVE

NS33 #009

Cedar Point YC

Westport, CT

[Mike BIANKA]

Try using a Dyneema soft shackle attached to the sail cringle and the reefing line through the soft shackle. Easier on the sail than a block.

Mike

BIANKA

1986 30U

Long Island