Sealing Leaks
Frank
Sealing Leaks
House air leakage
Click for larger image
Many air leaks and drafts are easy to find because they are easy to feel — like those around windows and doors. But holes hidden in attics, basements, and crawlspaces are usually bigger problems. Sealing these leaks with caulk, spray foam, or weather stripping will have a great impact on improving your comfort and reducing utility bills. Click on the house diagram to see common air leak locations that you should aim to seal.
Homeowners are often concerned about sealing their house too tightly; however, this is very unlikely in most older homes. A certain amount of fresh air is needed for good indoor air quality and there are specifications that set the minimum amount of fresh air needed for a house. If you are concerned about how tight your home is, hire a contractor, such as a Home Energy Rater, who can use diagnostic tools to measure your home's actual leakage. If your home is too tight, a fresh air ventilation system may be recommended.
After any home sealing project, have a heating and cooling technician check to make sure that your combustion appliances (gas- or oil-fired furnace, water heater, and dryer) are venting properly. For additional information on Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) issues related to homes, such as combustion safety.
This spiel is direct from http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_sealing
This is on the home improvement tab indicating an existing home, yet they use the term "Home Energy Rater" Huh??? Click the "Home Energy Rater" link and it takes you to the new homes section.
No wonder homeowners are so confused and not interested in this type of improvement. The EPA and D of E can't even get it right.
"After any home sealing project, have a heating and cooling technician check to make sure that your combustion appliances (gas- or oil-fired furnace, water heater, and dryer) are venting properly."
What?? I thought we were suppose to do that type of follow up, not to mention the fact that most HVAC people don't have the knowledge or equipment to do it to BPI standards.
Check the "Recommended Levels of Insulation" link. We are in zone 4, R38- R60 in the attic, what?? Even on a 12/12 pitch roof you can not get R-60 at the outside walls, you also can not get R-38 on the outside walls on the typical 6-8/12 pitch roof in this area.
Okay I'm done tearing into this fubar program for now, I will find more issues that need to be addressed.
With all that said I think the HPwES program and the BPI standards is the best thing going right now.
Anybody interested in making it better?
That will require 3 things, first take it out of the governments control, If it has merit people will recognize that and do it, second don't look at it as a main source of revenue/income, it is add on stuff to a cosmetic job, IMO if you don't have a broad hands on experience in home construction/improvement you should not be evaluating homes for comfort,safety, and efficiency, third release the sphincter muscle from the cartaroid artery.
Frank