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Issue - FHS 2 March 06, 2008 IN-STORE: Men buy, Women Shop - Women’s Wear at Hi-Street stores - ITC to open more lifestyle stores - Century to launch four brands - Reliance Brands tying up with foreign brands - Raymond to double outlets in 3 years   NEWS India News ITC to open more lifestyle stores ITC Ltd’s lifestyle retailing business division is planning to set up more Wills Lifestyle, John Players and Miss Players stores across India. It also wants to create a stronger brand and retail identity for Wills Lifestyle as a more international and aspirational brand. ITC has started a new store concept with FRCH Design of the US, a specialist in store and mall design with three concept stores already launched in Mumbai and Delhi. The number of Wills Lifestyle stores will be increased from 250 to 400 by the end of 2008-09. Aero Club to expand apparel Aero Club, the company that owns the footwear brand Woodland, plans to expand its apparel range, including denim. The brand has a new marketing strategy and expansion plans, with a fresh ad campaign. The plan is to reach a target of a Rs 500 crore turnover in two years. Timex may buy out jewellery companies Timex India is planning to open exclusive jewellery showrooms in Indian metros with an initial investment of Rs 15 crore. To this end, it is in discussion with Mumbai-based mid-sized jewellery companies for a possible buyout or a strategic alliance for back-end support. India’s jewellery market is close to Rs 1 lakh crore, with the organised sector at about 10% of this and growing by almost 25-30% year-on-year. Apart from Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Kolkata, Chennai and Hyderabad, Timex is planning jewellery showrooms in other big towns and small cities. Century to launch four brands Century Textile & Industries which owns the Cottons by Century brand, is planning to launch four new brands targeting the youth, denimwear and kidswear segments. The youth brand called Century UVA and the denimwear brand Century Denim will be launched by April, and will be priced in the mid segment. The company will also launch a kidswear brand and a premium menswear brand in due course. Century UVA will be priced between Rs 695 -Rs 1,295, denimwear will start from Rs 895 and the premium menswear range will start above Rs 2,000. L’Oreal identifies India among top 5 markets L'Oreal has identified India as one of its top-five growing businesses globally. The company’s sales in India grew a whopping 40.3% last year. It attributes its success to its penetrated distribution channel and team work. L'Oreal India has four divisions -- consumer products, professional products, active cosmetics and luxury products. Its portfolio covers amongst others, L'Oreal Paris, Maybelline NY, Garnier, Lancome and Vichy. Ritesh Properties enters garment retail with Femella Ritesh Properties and Industries, a real estate company, is entering the retail sector with Femella, a designer range of Indian contemporary women’s wear. The collection will be available at ‘Femella’ exclusive showrooms in Delhi. Eventually 500 retail stores across the country will be opened in the next five years. Reliance Brands tying up with foreign brands Reliance Brands, a subsidiary of Reliance Retail, is tying up with Polo Ralph Lauren and Versace prêt-a-porter, according to reports. Polo Ralph Lauren designs and distributes premium apparel, home, accessories and fragrances, under labels like Polo by Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Ralph Lauren, Black Label, Blue Label, Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Chaps and Club Monaco. Versace pret-e-porter aims at the lower end of the fashion market. Jockey to reposition to lifestyle Jockey has started a repositioning initiative in order to establish itself as a lifestyle brand. The focus will be on the leisure wear segment. Accordingly, the company is increasing products for women, and entering super-premium categories. It is also opening more outlets and focusing on non-innerwear products like pyjamas and gym wear.   Giordano expansion plans in India Giordano International has opened three more stores in Mumbai and Delhi. It is planning to open more shops in Bangalore, Hyderabad, Pune, Kolkata and other major cities. According to reports, the company sees India as a very important market on account of its economic growth. Raymond to double outlets in 3 years Raymond Apparel plans to double its retail outlets in three years, from 430 stores at present to 950. The expansion will include opening stores in tier IV and tier V towns across the country. Atul Wasan to open celebrity memorabilia store Atul Wasan, the former cricketer, is to open the first ever "Indian celebrity memorabilia store" in the coming year. The store will stock goods used by Bollywood celebrities, as well as by sports stars, television stars, politicians and the page three celebrities. It will be a shop-in-shop in one of the retail outlets. Wasan in addition is looking at opening stand alone stores and selling thorugh a website. The shops and website will open next year. Van Heusen Woman wins Most Admired Womanswear award Van Heusen Woman has won the “Most Admired Womanswear Brand of the year”Award at the Lycra Images fashion Awards 2008. This was the first brand in India to introduce colour blocked merchandise across its product categories and three categories of accessories. Evinix Accessories to launch new retail concept stores Evinix Accessories is launching Comfortable Urban and Trendy (CUT), a retail store brand to offer apparels and accessories. 40 different brands across apparel, accessories and footwear targeted at the young, will offer 80 style based combinations. The concept is one of rapid retail, which is new in India, one that offers a large style range but limited quantities. Evinix will focus on mini metros and smaller towns like Nagpur, Surat, Rajkot and others for the initial roll out. 125 stores of 4000-5000 sqft will be opened in the next 15 months, at an investment of Rs 170 cr. Koutons plans for expansion Koutons Retail India plans to enter the West Asia market by the end of this year. The company had recently floated an IPO to raise money. Out of this Rs 45 cr will be utilized to open 100 flagship stores in 30 cities. By 2010, it plans to have 1000 men’s stores and 2000 Charlie Outlook stores. It also plans to launch a premium menswear brand early next year, by either acquiring an existing brand or creating a new one. A budget of Rs 50 cr has been earmarked for this. In addition, Koutons plans on setting up a new big plant in Haryana, which will enhance its production capacity. Big Bazaar ties up with Star Group for clothing Big Bazaar has tied up with Star Group's licensing and merchandising division to introduce a 250 piece designer collection of ethnic wear called ‘Star Parivaar'. The collection has styles inspired by various Star soaps and will be launched in dedicated Star Parivaar boutiques in Big Bazaar outlets across India. Prices start at Rs 799. Italy shoemaker Geox wants factory in Maharashtra Italian shoe brand Geox wants to set up a manufacturing facility in Maharashtra, according to newspaper reports. Geox is known for shoes which have soles that prevent sweaty feet. Esprit looking at acquiring luxury brands With $786 million at its disposal, Esprit is looking for acquisition targets to take it into the luxury apparel sector. Strong sales and lower stock market valuations will help Esprit's acquisition strategy, which was designed to improve its brand image. Back to Top International News Kamali to Design Line for Wal-Mart Designer Norma Kamali has entered into a licensing deal with Wal-Mart to create an exclusive collection, according to reports. The designer will have a lifestyle brand under her own name that will cover women's wear, children's clothing, accessories, footwear and home, at Wal-Mart's mass prices. Claiborne closing Mexx Retail in the U.K. Liz Claiborne Inc. is closing Mexx Retail in the U.K., as part of its strategy to divest nonprofitable elements. Mexx will continue its wholesale business and factory outlets in the U.K. and Ireland. The 300 affected employees in the U.K., will be supported through a redeployment and an enhanced retention programme.   Wal-Mart in Canada to sell Indian garments Wal Mart Stores Inc. will sell Indian garments for men, women and children across Canada, through an agreement with Ranka Enterprises. 20 Wal-Mart stores will sell Indian family apparel under the brand name “Bollywood signatures”. Adam Lippes to do collection for Mango Adam Lippes, the Spanish designer, has signed an agreement to do a collection for Mango. He will produce two apparel collections for women and men for both spring and fall 2009. The Adam for Mango S/S line will be available in the brand's stores worldwide, except U.S. and Canada, beginning on March 15, 2009. The fall collection will arrive in early September of 2009.   Gap shows a revamped line for Fall Gap has recently shown its Fall line designed by Patrick Robinson, which is a complete revamp of its traditional look. Women’s jeans are cut very wide legged, cargo pants are slimmed down, the colour palette and fabric quality are elevated, and all lines look connected. Outerwear too is very new looking. There are boxy peacoats, wool flannel puffer jackets, and layerable knits. Let us see if things turn round now for the troubled retailer. Back to Top TRENDS Latest trend in Footwear The freshest footwear trend in Europe and USA is the two-tone spectator style, which is popular in both in the usual lace-up and less traditional interpretations. USA survey finds price most important factor The results of the 2008 Consumer Sentiment Index released in the USA lately, suggest that shoppers are far more likely to shop at department stores than monobrand speciality retailers. Earlier, product and services were more important than price. But with the recent downturn in the economy, price is at the No 1 position. It has become fashionable to be conservative about spending money. In addition, shoppers are short of time, so prefer to get all their shopping done in one store. In practical terms, it means that a JC Penney is likely to do better than a Gap.   Back to Top   IN-STORE Men buy, Women Shop By Team ThinkTank To subscribe, log on to www.studioatomium.com Men, who have often been accused of being merely replacement shoppers, tend to be more utilitarian when they hit the malls and shopping centers. It's a mission. Get in. Get what's needed. Get out. Quickly. Women, on the other hand, generally like to look around, talk to sales associates and experience the shopping. They walk around, smell perfume, touch clothes, dab on cosmetics. They want attention and they want direction. Recently, many leading brands for men’s formals, have introduced the women’s formal range, and standalone stores. But the store display and design is way different from the men’s store. In a typical men’s formal section, you’ll find the shirts stacked properly, and if the visual merchandising norms are religiously followed, you might get the display ‘size’ wise and well colored blocked. Whereas, in a women’s formal section, 95% of the merchandise in on ‘hang’, usually front facing, rather than the usual stacks. Also, the matching trousers/bottoms/skirts will be displayed right next to them or on the same fixture, if possible. You might find a matching bag, scarf or even footwear within the respective area. The stacking in these women shops is generally 5%. All you’ll see is a stack of 2-3 (single piece of S, M & L) of a similar design and of the same color. Rest all of them are on hang-rod. On the other hand, men’s stacks carry up to 8 pieces, featuring just 4 sizes, viz. one in size 38, two of size 40, three in size 42, and two again of size 44. In 99% women’s wear shops, you’ll find the store containing hang-rods only. There is no front facing option/fixture available in the store. This is because, on a hang rod you may display more garments as it comes under capacity fixture. Boutiques have hang-rods only as women find it very easy to browse. Even stores like Mango, CK Jeans & Guess have surprisingly hang-rods only. But the merchandise is well color blocked and coordinated. One hang-rod will carriy only greens, whereas another one will have the entire collection in pinks, with 3-4 tops and then 3-4 bottoms, and then different print in the same color repeated in the same display fashion. But, there is no stopping on innovation. Fixture designers have now turned the hang-rods into a featured fixture. Refer to figure 2.1. This way you can have very calculative stocks and that too the women what . Moreover, it carries more merchandise than a front facing straight arm, and looks neat too. New stores like ‘Ruh’ & ‘Kimaya’ carry these featured hang-rods throughout the store. Many stores are using the metal Hang-rods with the nods, refer figure 2.2. Waterfall arms (refer figure 2.3) and straight arms are also seen in these women’s formal stores. Women told surveyors that they find straight arms little uncomfortable as the display doesn’t comes up well. On the other hand, the waterfall arms are more preferred as you can see the entire color range displayed on the arm. Apart from Aftershock & Zapp; Shoppers’ Stop, Pantaloons and similar department stores use these waterfalls in there many sections. However, the popular music store Planet M too use waterfall arm to display the Tee Shirts. Women don’t like it when sales associates show them different styles and new items. "I told him what I was looking for and why, and he set out to find me the right suit," said one woman. "I didn't have to do anything." Here, the shopping fun was killed by the associate by not letting the female customer browse. To sum up, the store designers and retailers have to learn the consumer shopping behavior, especially women, when it comes to display of merchandise and store layout. As they say: men shop as hunters, women shop as gatherers. Women’s Wear at Hi-Street stores By Mira Gupta As an addendum to the story above, we decided to visit three hi-street stores offering women’s wear in addition to menswear, to check out what was on offer. It has to be clarified here that two out of the three were on sale, so may not be showing at their best. That said, here is what we saw. Wills Lifestyle The shop had an extensive women’s section, covering casuals, office and party wear. Everyday trousers in camel, tan and black at Rs 1500-2000, jackets in cord, knits and herringbone patterns at Rs 1500-2000, Tshirts at Rs 1000, capris, dresses and skirts in printed knits and prints, were some garments on offer. The party section offered tops and other garments in silk, and some odd clothes by Monisha Jaising and Rohit Gandhi/Rahul Khanna. A tunic by Monisha was selling at Rs 11000, and was an approximate version of her autumn/winter line. There was an accessories line on offer, which covered ill conceived and poorly executed shoes and handbags. Wills scores on how extensive the merchandise is, but must improve on finish, styling, and the silhouette of the garments, which look drapy, ill cut and ill finished. The choice of the fabrics too is unimaginative, though to be fair, since they were on sale, these must be the remainders for the season. Van Heusen Van Heusen has been nominated the most admired women’s wear brand lately, and with good reason. Here too there were casuals, office and party wear on offer, but with far better finish and styling. The prices were roughly on par with Wills, though some more expensive garments, such as party jackets at Rs 6000 were available. We were impressed with a lovely silk top with beading at Rs 3000, and skirts with a cute ribbon detail at the waist in candy colours at Rs 1400. The office line was extensive and offered blazers that looked well cut in good fabrics. Bags, slippers and an attractive line of costume jewelry were available in the accessory section. Allen Solly Allen Solly had the smallest range of merchandise available out of the three shops surveyed, and seemed to be sticking to a more basic formula of denims in various washes at roughly Rs 1400, trousers in velvets in pretty colours, some frumpy looking dresses in broderie anglaise and checks at about Rs 1200-1500, and attractive Tshirts in Spring candy colours. This shop too offered an office section, which though less extensive than Van Heusen, was adequate in its range of garments. Blazers at Rs 4000 and slightly more casual ones in pink/blue stripes were attractive, and so were a large range of shirts in stripes/checks. A small line of bags was also available. We carried away the impression that though the office wear segment is well covered in women’s wear by hi-street shops, they have a long way to go in casuals and party wear. Keeping in mind that these shops started off with men’s wear, it makes sense that office wear for women is well executed, since fabrics and cuts would be similar to men’s wear. But a bigger push is required to make the other sections more original, attractive and appealing. Back to Top MISCELLANEOUS   IAM launches second batch of “Apparel Marketing & Merchandising” The Institute of Apparel Management has started its first batch of 1 year full time PG programme “Apparel Marketing & Merchandising” in Aug’ 07. The institute has also commenced 1 year part time programme “Apparel Retail Merchandising” in Nov’07 for working professionals to pursue careers in apparel industry. The Institute has now started its second batch of 1 year full time PG programme “Apparel Marketing & Merchandising”. The orientation programme was conducted on 6th February’08 whereas various speakers from the industry were present to share their thoughts & highlight prospects for apparel industry. This one-year programme aims to create managers with the skills, knowledge and attitude to meet the demands of apparel industry. The programme is structured into 2 semesters.Students also undergo an 8-weeks internship after completion of the 1st semester in leading Apparel, Export, Retail & Domestic organizations in India or 4 weeks Customized programme in partnership with London College of Fashion, UK followed by 4-weeks internship in leading Apparel Export, Retail & Domestic organizations in India. The customized programme aims to provide an understanding of the UK market in terms of buying patterns, retail structure and formats. The objective of international exposure is to provide the understanding of international perspective of fashion and apparel management. Back to Top EDITOR IN CHIEF : VINOD KAUL EDITOR : MIRA GUPTA Subscribe Contact Us Tell a Friend About Us Unsubscribe

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