Two trip ideas

[Craig Parker]

Hi all,

I assume it will finally get hot in Chicago at some point this summer.

Does anyone want to plan on going to either:

• Lion's Head, Ontario, Canada, or
  
• http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lions-head/107831680

• DWS at Kinkaid Lake in southern Illinois?
• http://dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks/r5/Kinkaid.htm

I've done Kinkaid Lake, but not Lion's Head.

Anyone who is interested, please chime in so that we can start planning.

Craig

[Alex Taylor]

What can you tell me about the lake? All I've heard is that there is some free water soloing there. I'm definitely interested...

Also if you are thinking Ontario I have a bunch of pdf guidebooks and other info I could send you, but not much on lions head specifically.

[Josh Harmon]

I've actually never been, but I've heard Kinkaid's a blast. Fyi though, while the main cliffline has some great routes, the easiest is either 10b or 10d. 

Lion's Head definitely looks worthy of a trip. I'd be willing to take a 4-day weekend and go up there.

On Sun, Jul 7, 2013 at 6:11 PM, Alex Taylor <alexta...@gmail.com> wrote:

What can you tell me about the lake? All I've heard is that there is some free water soloing there. I'm definitely interested...

Also if you are thinking Ontario I have a bunch of pdf guidebooks and other info I could send you, but not much on lions head specifically.

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[Alex Taylor]

Yea Lion's Head sounds awesome, although I believe it is mostly more difficult stuff too. I think there is one 9 ish route.

If you go to Lion's Head I have heard that there is some awesome cliff diving at Cyprus Lake, which is nearby.

I've also heard that unless you are solidly climbing 12's then you need to go with a local. Many of the climbs require rappelling in and hanging belay, so once you start you have to be able to finish, unless you are really confident in your swimming ability. Also since both guidebooks are old and out of print, even if you get a copy, it is unlikely that you will be able to know what you are climbing until after you finish it...

[amwar3]

I might be down to go depending on the date.  Lion's Head looks cool but I have no trad experience so I don't know if that could actually work.  Kinkaid looks like it might be more up my alley.  I haven't been there but I've climbed at Jackson Falls, which is another really cool place to go in southern Illinois.

Adin

[Craig Parker]

Regarding Kinkaid Lake, there is basically just one spot where you can do routes.  The easiest route is about 10c/d.  I was very close to getting it, but never did, in part because I was barefoot.  Nevertheless, I had a blast making progress, falling, and hanging out.  Also, you can just walk up to the spot where you can jump.  I'm attaching a picture, but the colors a bit washed out because I had my camera dialed in to the wrong film speed.

When we went to KL, we stayed in the national forest nearby.  Nobody else was there, so that was cool.  Then we did DWS on Saturday.  Then we drove to Jackson Falls, camped, and climbed the next day.  It was a good weekend.

The only thing I would change is that I would want to rent a pontoon boat.  We were late making reservations, so we ended up with two john boats, which we couldn't really chill in.  The pontoon thing would be hella cool.

Regarding Lion's Head, I also have heard that it can be intimidating if you don't have some local knowledge. However, I think there are more than a few routes below 10 and there are sport routes.  My take: I'd be okay hiring someone, but we also could just toprope stuff from above or be prepared for jumaring and/or aiding if a route shuts us down.  Nothin' wrong with a bit of adventure, I say.

[Craig Parker]

Oh, and here's some more info on LH:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/Canada/Ontario/Central_Ontario/Lions_Head/

By the way, I will be out of town without cell phone service from July 17th to July 24th, so I'd like to do a lot of planning for whatever we do as soon as we can.

[sandra morris]

Hey guys.  I'm not avail  for trip but I have been to both places you are considering.  If you go to SoIL know that the lake will be your only climbing option as it will be too hot and slimy for Jfalls.  And Craig is right the easiest route there is stiff especially if you arent an overhang climber.  I would recommend laps on the 11s on rope one and 2 at lpac as training.  Remember also you can't hang and work out moves so you can fall A LOT and it takes a toll on you even if you hit the water right.  Even if you do make it to the top you still have to jump off at around 50 ft.  That said it is super fun!

As for Lions head even if you don't have a guidebook there are plenty of climbers around to ask about the ratings.  Also most of the classics have the route name and rating painted next to the anchors on the top.  I had probably my worst accident ever there as i was on lead and grabbed a huge jug above a bolt and the jug broke off in my hand and I hit the ledge above the last bolt.  I had to climb out which was painful but do able.  Lucky I didnt break anything.  Anyway be careful of the limestone there.  It really is beautiful.   Another option for you guys is red wing mn.  Awesome place only 5 hour drive and soft ratings.  Good for the ego.  Best.  Sandy

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[Craig Parker]

Thanks, Sandy.

I agree that Jackson Falls may not be ideal in summer, but we actually had a good time there the day after it was 94 at Kinkaid.

Also, the very top of the cliff at Kinkaid might be 50, but there is a shelf at 25 or so that was a pretty great spot to climb to or hang out on after getting there via a bit a scrambling.

[Craig Parker]

So, it doesn't feel like Canada is going to happen this year, but there seems to be enough interest in Kinkaid to start talking dates.

When could people go in August?

Here's a video of the routes (at about 3:00 is the easiest one):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NPs6yCB9Lo

[Alex Taylor]

I might be able to go to Canada August 9th to 15th...

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Alexander D. Taylor
Student

DePaul University

(540) 250-0038

alex.ta...@gmail.com

[amwar3]

Can people go during the week?  I can only do Monday the 19th through Friday the 20th.

[Dan Stirton]

Kinkaid Lake looks awesome. i'm leaving for LA soon but I could do a weekday trip either the 30th-2nd or the 13th-16th, what do you guys think?

On Friday, July 5, 2013 2:16:29 PM UTC-5, Craig Parker wrote: