Bolivia's offerings to Mother Earth A religious mix of Catholicism and Witchcraft
Pastor Dale Morgan
*Bolivia's offerings to Mother Earth A religious mix of Catholicism and
Witchcraft*
By James Ingham
BBC News, Bolivia
Although the majority of Bolivia's population is Catholic, many believe
not just in a Catholic God but one they have worshipped for millennia.
Indigenous Witchcraft and Catholic beliefs have fused together here. God
is worshipped but, just as important, is Pachamama or Mother Earth.
The Aymara people have lived in the Andes for more than 2,000 years,
pre-dating the Incas who ruled over large parts of the west of South
America.
An indigenous woman sells a llama foetus in Witches Street, La Paz, Bolivia
The llama foetus is considered sacred by many in Bolivia
Many of their traditional beliefs remained intact during the later
Spanish colonisation and they still survive today.
In Bolivia, more than half the population consider themselves indigenous
Indians. The Aymara is one of the biggest groups.
Even the president respects their ancient rituals.
In the steep, cobbled, back streets of La Paz, Bolivia's administrative
capital, it is easy to see these traditions being practised.
Witches' market
The area is busy. Day-to-day life is a constant bustle, with women
selling fruit and vegetables, sitting alongside friends flogging alpaca
wool hats to tourists.
We live and eat from the land. Pachamama is our mother and we have to
respect her
Juana, spiritual healer
Here small shops and wooden stalls are stacked high with potions,
charms, and herbs, and not too pleasant looking llama foetuses. More on
them later.
Behind each one stands a woman, waiting patiently for her services to be
needed.
In one of these stalls I got chatting to Juana and Ivan, a husband and
wife team said to have a special gift.
Juana is a practising Yatiri, a spiritual healer.
Llama foetuses for sale in market
Llama foetuses are offered for sale in Bolivian markets
She learnt the craft from her father who was, in turn, guided by his father.
Her family, she says, has been blessed for generations, but she told me
that of five children she is the only one with this power.
"I realised when I was nine that I could heal," she said. "I helped my
mother and sisters when they got ill."
When she was 16 she started working on the stall, slowly taking over the
business that has been on this spot for half a century.
For 12 years this very calm and gentle woman has been helping people who
are sick and trying to bring them good luck.
Pachamama
"We live and eat from the land," Juana said.
Woman making offering
The offering included sugar tablets, herb and wool
"Pachamama is our mother and we have to respect her."
Many people burn offerings, hoping Pachamama will bring them good luck,
health, fortune and happiness.
Juana offered to make me an offering too.
She began by spreading a base of herbs on a large sheet of paper. Then
she started sifting through a box of small rectangular tablets made from
sugar. Each one had a symbol on it - a house, a dollar bill, hearts, a
star or a book.
She chose one with the outline of a condor, a giant South American bird.
It would, she said, bring me positive energy and peace.
Wrapped in silver leaf
Another, with a picture of a nearby mountain, would bless me on my
travels and she added another tablet that she told me would protect my
health.
The offering was growing in size.
Map of Bolivia including the administrative capital La Paz
Next, were walnuts - again for health - sweets shaped like llamas - an
animal that is so much a part of life here - more sugar cubes, then
llama wool, the clothing of Pachamama.
On top of all this she placed a llama foetus.
If you were to dig up most Bolivian homes, you would find one of these
buried beneath the foundations.
They are a gift to Pachamama, a way of apologising for cutting into her.
They are an important part of any offering and are said to be very lucky.
The smoke swirling in circles was a sure sign of good luck
Next, she wrapped gold and silver leaf around the foetus, and added some
llama meat, and incense, presumably to make the concoction smell nicer
as it burnt.
Ivan meanwhile was chopping wood. Most people take their offering home
to burn them there, but I did not think my hotel would be happy with
that idea and I was sure Ivan could build a better fire.
He sent me off to buy some bottles of beer which we would use for a toast.
So right there on the street, next to the stall, we made the offering.
Lucky
I placed the packet onto the wood and made my request to Pachamama.
With a little fuel, the fire took hold quickly. We toasted Pachamama
with the beer, asking other stall holders to join in and wish me well.
James Ingham burns offering
An offering was burnt and prayers made to Pachamama
I should tell you at this point that I am soon to become a father for
the first time and so my wishes from Pachamama naturally concerned the
future for my child.
Juana was delighted and seemed genuine when she told me that the
offering was being well received.
The smoke swirling in circles was a sure sign of this, apparently, and
meant good luck.
The beer, she said, was particularly sweet, again a sign of luck.
She seemed really content when a man - no-one knew who he was -
approached the fire seemingly transfixed by the flame.
"This is very lucky," she said. "And it means you'll have a son."
I will wait and see.