Genoa halyard turning block top of mast
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Roger Goodfellow
May 26, 2026, 10:53:39 AM (5 days ago) May 26
to Beneteau Owners
I have a Beneteau first 310 1991.
Subject block is jammed with halyard.
I had someone up the mast and they were unable to free halyard.
Any suggestions please.
William Pribe
May 26, 2026, 11:34:27 AM (5 days ago) May 26
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Good Morning,
I had a First 310 and that happened to me also. The shive is plastic and the shive split, jamming the halyard. I had to take down the mast to get the halyard free and replaced the shive. I ordered aluminum shives and replaced all of them with the aluminum ones.
Bill Pribe
Wing Jammer 36.7
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Roger Goodfellow
May 26, 2026, 1:13:26 PM (5 days ago) May 26
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Thank you so much.
Sent from my iPad
On May 26, 2026, at 10:34 AM, William Pribe <wpr...@gmail.com> wrote:
S/V Slainte; First 310
May 27, 2026, 8:21:45 PM (4 days ago) May 27
to Beneteau Owners
Yes, sounds like the sheave is broken or flat spotted. think the simplest solution in the long run is to drop the stick. Good news is it will give you the opportunity to inspect everything and replace the worn out stuff as needed. I replaced all the sheaves in mine, rewired, etc. the first year I had my 310. Good luck with it.
Hay Tanning
May 28, 2026, 12:15:26 AM (4 days ago) May 28
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Hello, i recently changed the oil and oil Filter on my 2006 Beneteau 423 and it was fairly simple. Is changing the Fuel Filter basic as well. I would sinply unscrew the old one and replacing it with a new one? Or do I need to shut off the Fuel and bleed the air out later?
The is for the Fuel filter nearby the oil filter. Not the one with the water separator.
Any advice is appreciated. I should have watched the mechanic when he changed it a year ago and I can't find any good YouTube videos on it.
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Mark J Wilme
May 28, 2026, 10:32:20 AM (3 days ago) May 28
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Not familiar with the 423 so some generic questions
what engine and which fuel filter?
on most larger marine diesel engines you will have 2 filters -the remote filter somewhere in the engine bay between the tank and the engine (which i believe is called the primary filter) and an on-block filter as well that is part of the engine as shipped by the engine manufacturer (secondary).
I am not a mechanic but here is my process
Primary filter -close the shut off vale on the inbound side of the filter between tank and filter. If there is a valve on the output side of the filter close that too (prevent backflow). Put in a drip pan and absorbent rags. Put gloves on. Crack the seal on the filter with a filter wrench if needed then unscrew the filter. I usually keep and strain the fuel thats in the filter but you can also dispose of it also. Make sure you have also removed the rubber gasket/seal. Fill the replacement filter with fuel and ensure the replacement gasket is seated on the filter then offer it up and tighten by hand, i also put a light film of diesel ffuel on the seal with my finger before installing. I do give it a little tweak with a wrench to snug it up also.
Secondary filter - can be hard to locate, either find engine model # and look for photos online or follow the fuel hoses from the primary or back from the injectors. If this is the first time changing this filter it is likely painted over. Again, close any upstream fuel cocks. After I crack the seal I would then wipe it down before i unscrew the thread just to avoid paint fleck contamination. Process is the same - o-ring/seal, insert dry filter, trickle in some fuel and delicately screw it in place.
Don't forget to reopen all the fuel cocks and check for fuel leaks
On modern marine diesel engines i believe they are self priming. But if you do get alot of air in the fuel lines you may need to prime the system (expel the air). some engines have a finger mounted primer on them In other cases you can crack and injector seal and just wait for the air to spurt out as you crank the engine (likely a two person job)
I am sure the next question is about filter porosity - right ?
what engine and which fuel filter?
on most larger marine diesel engines you will have 2 filters -the remote filter somewhere in the engine bay between the tank and the engine (which i believe is called the primary filter) and an on-block filter as well that is part of the engine as shipped by the engine manufacturer (secondary).
I am not a mechanic but here is my process
Primary filter -close the shut off vale on the inbound side of the filter between tank and filter. If there is a valve on the output side of the filter close that too (prevent backflow). Put in a drip pan and absorbent rags. Put gloves on. Crack the seal on the filter with a filter wrench if needed then unscrew the filter. I usually keep and strain the fuel thats in the filter but you can also dispose of it also. Make sure you have also removed the rubber gasket/seal. Fill the replacement filter with fuel and ensure the replacement gasket is seated on the filter then offer it up and tighten by hand, i also put a light film of diesel ffuel on the seal with my finger before installing. I do give it a little tweak with a wrench to snug it up also.
Secondary filter - can be hard to locate, either find engine model # and look for photos online or follow the fuel hoses from the primary or back from the injectors. If this is the first time changing this filter it is likely painted over. Again, close any upstream fuel cocks. After I crack the seal I would then wipe it down before i unscrew the thread just to avoid paint fleck contamination. Process is the same - o-ring/seal, insert dry filter, trickle in some fuel and delicately screw it in place.
Don't forget to reopen all the fuel cocks and check for fuel leaks
On modern marine diesel engines i believe they are self priming. But if you do get alot of air in the fuel lines you may need to prime the system (expel the air). some engines have a finger mounted primer on them In other cases you can crack and injector seal and just wait for the air to spurt out as you crank the engine (likely a two person job)
I am sure the next question is about filter porosity - right ?
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