Allmand 31- Freedom II -- Balsa wood filler - window section install -- LEAKS

[Gene Exley]

Hello All,

 

Still working on the boat, although the list maybe getting shorter, I wonder If I will ever get all the jobs completed to sail it.

 

Latest project -  re caulking the Bowmar hatches, which is now complete and went rather well , gaining confidence, to now do  the windows and ports.  I have started the task, of re caulking the starboard window, and will expect to continue to do the rest of them  as well as the ports, after  seeing the results of the forward starboard window condition. Spent the week end pulling the first window.

 

Balsa core rotten, on forward starboard window ( mostly near the rear section corner , 2-3 inches on the bottom and side of the window, and also on the top  section of the window under the frame section of balsa core), I have dug out the soggy wet core, let the boat air dry, and also ran a fan on it all weekend, for three days. and now feel I and am getting ready to go to the next step -- fill the missing balsa core holes prior to  re caulking the window.

 

Any recommendation as to what is the best type of  filler to use to insert in the sections which now has no balsa core?  I am looking for something which will be strong and able to hold the screws without having the fiber glass sag?  Easy to install, and easy clean up,

I feel the top section of the window -- getting the filler in, will be more difficult to fill, based on trying to fill upward and having gravity work against you, while insuring you have no voids or air gaps and insuring it won’t fall out after you fill the hole.

 

Another question I was wondering is: does  the water get  sucked  up into the top of the window balsa core from the frame? or is it entering from The wood trim over the window on the top of the deck?  Do I also have to pull this wood trim also on the top side to prevent it going into the top section of the window?

 

Now that I have the window and frame out, my intent is to sand the frames section clean, paint the frames to stop rust, and I am considering trying to also glazed the glass or install new rubber gasket material prior to re installing back on the boat.  Since I’m not the first to attack this job, I’m seeking your advice from the voice of experience,  as  to the best approach from your hand on effort.  Does anyone know where I can obtain the rubber gasket material, which covers the exterior window glass?  How does it get re installed?   Any advise would be helpful. Thank you all,  in advance for your help and advice.

 

Gene Exley

Freedom II

gex...@nortechsys.com

480-710-7076 mobile   

  

  

[Chris Windeler]

I would use epoxy paste or filler. The only reason there is balsa wood between the skins is to lower the weight and the cost.

Chris

-- 
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Allmand" group.
To post to this group, send email to All...@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to Allmand-u...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/Allmand
Visit the Allmand Sail site at http://www.allmandsail.com
Allmand Files: https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B0KWQYvl2FcWMGM2NzgyMTYtNDE3Yi00YWU5LTgyMTUtMWU4YzlmODA0NzU3&hl=en

--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Allmand" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email toallmand+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[captgatt]

Gene,
I experienced a lot of dry rot on my 35 all around the hatch over the quarter berth. I removed the hatch to discover most of the screws were actually loose due to rot and allowing rain water to seep through the deck and soak the headliner, the wood frames behind the headliner and the adjacent plywood around the quarter berth window.  I had to replace all of that.  To repair the problem with the hatch I scraped out as much of the rotted wood that I could from between the layers of glass making up the top of the deck and ceiling from the inside overhead.This created a horizontal channel under the screw holes.  After this I drilled into the screw holes with a drill bit a little larger than the original holes and created a vertical channel meeting  the previously mentioned   horizontal channel.  I also drilled other slightly larger holes in line with the screw holes in a couple of spots keeping them placed so that the hatch frame would cover  them when put back on. 
Now the fix. I bought a thin watery two part epoxy available at West Marine that seeps into wood and fills in spaces.   I also bought a package of large syringes also available at West Marine. I injected the epoxy into all of the screw holes (this was a slow process) and the other drilled holes until  the holes were full. I can not remember the name of this product but it comes with two squeeze bottles, one epoxy and one hardener and an empty bottle for mixing.  This stuff worked great! It filled all of the void channels, and stood up to drilling pilot holes where the old screws came out of and has been holding in  all of the screws.  I still used 5200 in the pilot holes, and on the screws as always to insure a good waterproof seal for the screws.  I have not had any re-occurrence  of leakage into the quarter berth or the new headliner.  If you encounter any more dry rot you should give this a try.  If you want to insure no air gaps you might have to drill an exit hole for the resin so that you can see it oozing out.  Thus you know no gaps.  If you have a vertical surface as in your windows you may have to drill diagonally or at a downward angle to help the flow into the gap above and below the repair at an upward angle for an exit.  I hope that some of this is helpful.

FG
ZIG ZAG

[Sherry]

I just did this on my 35'.  I followed Don Casey's instructions  with the injectors also.  It helps putting blue paint tape on holes and doing one hole at a time.  Casey shows how in great detail.

Also, redid gaskets.  Portholes are Beckson (hatches Bomar) and when I tried to install gaskets I had a really hard time.  I called manufacturer and they admitted they posted incorrect instructions and sent me new ones.  I have the file if you are interested.  Basically, cover porthole from outside to prevent light.  Next, using hammer (yes hammer), lightly tap one corner in while stretching slightly.  Watch the lines on gasket to make sure they are straight (why no outside light..it's problematic) then lightly hammer across, no stretching on straightways.

Hope this helps.  

FYI...I also found rot around inspection plate in cockpit floor.  I did the 2 part epoxy (West System and Slow Hardener) injection on that also.

Sherry Raintree

--

[d.a.v.e]

On out 31 the wood in there were just strips cut out.  I removed the hatches dug the wood out, after the first chunk came out everything else came out easy and it was an hollow fiberglass hole about an inch deep.  I did this for all 3 hatches when we replaced them.  I cut up 4 new strips of wood & glued them in there and drilled new holes in the wood.  Pretty easy & no epoxy mess :)

[d.a.v.e]

I pulled them out and took them to the glass store with the rubber that was in there.  They replaced the plex that was in there with new and then put the rubber in and siliconed it all in.  Been in for 3 yrs now with no leaks.  I tried repainting the outside with spray paint but that did not seem to hold up so well?

[apple...@wildblue.net]

hi every one .. my name is jim Donavan    and I am the new owner of an allmand  31 . I purchased it in rio vista ,ca. and rented a trailer and hauled it up north to Oregon . I have it at its new home at the salmon harbor marina ,Winchester bay ,Oregon .   . I was wonder if all the allmands have the prop shaft offset to starboard and has any one  taken the deck a part under the mast to replace the rotten wood .. the screws that hold the stainless mast support tube are bent and sticking out in the cabin 3/4 of and inch so I assume that the wood is shot under the mast  step     ... even my wife likes this boat .  that is saying a lot .  ;-)    .  jim

[Lipham]

Welcome Jim

Yes, several Allmand owners have replaced the step. I've been luck and have not had too.

Sent from my iPad

--

[d.a.v.e]

We did ours 3yrs ago. It was not a major job. I replaced the old wood with new that had been dipped/soaked in polyurthane. A fellow owner did his the year before and replaced the wood section with a big hunk of Alumn.

I figured the original wood lasted 30+yrs no need to over do it :)

[Gene Exley]

Thanks for your email, I’ll give it a try when it get a little cooler in Sarasota.

 

From: all...@googlegroups.com [mailto:all...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of captgatt
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 11:22 AM
To: all...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Allmand] Re: Allmand 31- Freedom II -- Balsa wood filler - window section install -- LEAKS

 

!Gene,

I experienced a lot of dry rot on my 35 all around the hatch over the quarter berth. I removed the hatch to discover most of the screws were actually loose due to rot and allowing rain water to seep through the deck and soak the headliner, the wood frames behind the headliner and the adjacent plywood around the quarter berth window.  I had to replace all of that.  To repair the problem with the hatch I scraped out as much of the rotted wood that I could from between the layers of glass making up the top of the deck and ceiling from the inside overhead.This created a horizontal channel under the screw holes.  After this I drilled into the screw holes with a drill bit a little larger than the original holes and created a vertical channel meeting  the previously mentioned   horizontal channel.  I also drilled other slightly larger holes in line with the screw holes in a couple of spots keeping them placed so that the hatch frame would cover  them when put back on. 

Now the fix. I bought a thin watery two part epoxy available at West Marine that seeps into wood and fills in spaces.   I also bought a package of large syringes also available at West Marine. I injected the epoxy into all of the screw holes and the other drilled holes until  the holes were full. I can not remember the name of this product but it comes with two squeeze bottles, one epoxy and one hardener and an empty bottle for mixing.  This stuff worked great! It filled all of the void channels, and stood up to drilling pilot holes where the old screws came out of ahheld all of the screws f. 

On Sunday, June 1, 2014 6:54:46 PM UTC-4, Gene Exley wrote:

On Sunday, June 1, 2014 6:54:46 PM UTC-4, Gene Exley wrote:

--

[Jim]

Hi Gene, 

Just realized you're close to me in Sarasota. I'm at Bradenton Beach Marina. 

Jim 

Sent from my iPhone

[Gene Exley]

Jim

 

I’m in Bay shone Gardens on 2th S. Slip 111

My phone is 941-934-8203

 

Give me a call some time I would like to meet and show you the boat.

 

Regards,

 

Gene

[Jim]

Gene, I would love to see your boat and chat about our A - 31s! 

I'm going to be over to my boat in a couple of weekends from now. I will    give you a call before then and see if we can get together. 

Jim 

Sent from my iPhone

[Gene Exley]

Jim

 

D you live in Bradenton?

 

My cell is 480-710-7076

Home phone 941-924-8203

 

The previous email had the wrong phone number.

Look forward to meeting you.

 

Please send me your phone  info.

[Jim]

Hi Gene, 

I live in Orlando but keep my boat at Bradenton Beach marina on the ICW. 

I bought my boat 6 years ago from someone in Charlotte Harbor and moved it north. Been upgrading the boat as I go along but there is never enough time to get it all done. Earlier this year I repowered to a Yanmar 24. Fit perfect & Works great! 

My phone is 407- 257-5301. Direct email is jimf...@aol.com 

Jim 

Sent from my iPhone