Leak into bilge from lower water tank

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Eddie Hornick

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Aug 5, 2020, 11:54:19 AM8/5/20
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Hello
I've searched Google group for any past discussions and don't see any. Has anyone had a leak from aft end of keel water tank into the bilge behind it? Mine is very minor and would take days to set off the bilge pump. It also looks like a previous owner has glassed over the joint and caulked it from bilge side to try to stop it. It still seeps out on to bilge floor slowly. Any ideas for a fix?
Thanks!
Eddie Hornick
1984 Allmand 35 "Traveller"
Hull 51

Harry Jansen

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Aug 5, 2020, 12:19:46 PM8/5/20
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The water tank on hull number 301 a 1983 31 ft is under the V-berth. The ice box (fridge) drains into the bilge as does the wet locker next to the companionway steps.


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Eddie Hornick

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Aug 5, 2020, 12:34:58 PM8/5/20
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I'm not sure about the 31 but the 35 has a tank just above the keel ballast and also the one under vee berth. I tested the leak by pumping dry the water tanks and the seepage stopped so im pretty sure its from the lower tank.

John MacLean

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Aug 7, 2020, 11:44:30 AM8/7/20
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Hello Eddie,

If you are a Facebook user try going here for a response:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1301497460003213/

Mac


From: all...@googlegroups.com <all...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Eddie Hornick <ceho...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2020 11:54 AM
To: All...@googlegroups.com <All...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [Allmand] Leak into bilge from lower water tank
 
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Michele D.

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Aug 7, 2020, 11:45:07 AM8/7/20
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I have a 1983 35tri in Maine.  To fix mine, I cut open the water tank to repair the fracture in the bottom of the water tank - you will find it is a very thin hand lay up.  Not a small project, but its aggravating to have water exchange from tank to sump to tank !  A bladder tank might solve it but I didn't go that route.

Good luck!
Michele

Eddie Hornick

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Aug 7, 2020, 1:45:18 PM8/7/20
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Michele,
How large of a hole? 
Was it just in the top of the tank or I was thinking maybe cutting some of the hole over the top corner and down the face of the bilge plate an inch or two ending up with an angle shaped cut out making the cut out stronger and possibly easier to hold in place while epoxying it back in?
I figure ill want to try to pressure or steam wash inside of tank while it is open as well so a larger hole will help.
I dont see a good way to hook in a bladder tank to the upper Vee Berth tank so I doubt that is really an option.
Main thing was to know if this has happened before because that helps on deciding on a fix. Good to know.
Thanks!
Eddie

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KEITH REYNOLDS

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Aug 7, 2020, 2:10:44 PM8/7/20
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Eddie,
I have a keel tank just as you on one of my Allmand 35's. The former owner reported it leaked so he had bypassed that tank. I have notice what appears to be an access cover above that tank that is fairly large. If yours doesn't have one I would make one. I have opened up other fiberglass tanks and to repair them from the inside you need working room as well as being able to get grinders inside the tank and enough room to use them.

On the 31 ( I haven't looked at the 35's yet) the factory installed a very large cover. It is difficult to remove after the screws have been pulled out because they used a very aggressive sealant but it is possible with care. I have done it. On my 31/34 I turned the 50 gallon tank into a 110 gallon tank by jigsawing the vertical seams apart and moving the tank sides outward, forward downward and aft as the case may be for each side. Even at that I still left some air space between the tank wall and the hull side. It has worked great for the last 29 years.

Relative to your suggestion that you would use epoxy I have some observations. Our fiberglass laminates Do Not include any epoxy. That material excels at needs that require adhesion or if it was used originally in the laminate for strength or weight savings. Polyester or Vinylester resins do not stick well to epoxy. Only epoxy sticks to epoxy. When I do all my fiberglass work I stick to the two fiberglass resins mentioned. You are never going to make the boat any stronger or lighter by using epoxy. It only complicates future repairs. Take the time to layup the fiberglass correctly and get any excess resin And air out of the laminate by using a fiberglass serrated roller designed for that purpose. I like using one of the smaller versions for jobs such as yours. I have had great success with this method. It also reduces any fairing necessary if you have rolled it properly with those rollers. My more than 10 foot wide transom has survived 31 years, thousands of offshore miles for 4 Cape Hatteras roundings, one of which was quite noteworthy.

Best of luck with your repair,
Keith on several Camelot's
On 08/07/2020 1:45 PM Eddie Hornick <ceho...@gmail.com> wrote:


Michele,
How large of a hole? 
Was it just in the top of the tank or I was thinking maybe cutting some of the hole over the top corner and down the face of the bilge plate an inch or two ending up with an angle shaped cut out making the cut out stronger and possibly easier to hold in place while epoxying it back in?
I figure ill want to try to pressure or steam wash inside of tank while it is open as well so a larger hole will helpk with you.

James Goepel

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Aug 7, 2020, 2:25:50 PM8/7/20
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M.L.D.R.

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Aug 9, 2020, 7:22:56 PM8/9/20
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Eddie,

Kieth is very right.  Better to grind away the area so you can "chase" the damage as far as it goes, then lay up new fiberglass.  On my 35 there is a hose connecting the two tanks so I'm thinking of a keel bladder tank in the future.  I like the idea of the inspection port too.  

Michele

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