WTB - 126mm OLD 7 speed cassette hyperglide 36 or 40 hole rear hub

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John Hawrylak

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Feb 22, 2014, 9:20:52 AM2/22/14
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126mm OLD rear hub - 7 speed Shimano Hyper-glide Cassettes (not Uniglide)  36 or 40 spoke 

 

Want to get a front dynohub wheel (700C) for lights for brevets and need a 700C rear.  Currently have 27” wheels with 7spd freewheel.  Allows me to upgrade my 1988 Schwinn Voyageur to a freehub without spreading the rear triangle.  E-Bay was not too helpful

 

A 126mm 7 speed cassette hub must be out there somewhere, sitting forlornly, unused, assigned to the dust bin by its 9/10 speed descendents.  I’ll give a good home, with lots of miles.


John Hawrylak

Woodstown NJ

Oleritter

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Feb 23, 2014, 11:06:32 AM2/23/14
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I have converted 130mm OLD hubs to 126mm and 7 speed by changing just the free hub, along with changing or shortening the axle.  An older uniglide free hub does fit on later hyperglide hubs.  I believe sometimes the tranisitional hubs can be changed by just removing spacers from each side of hub, but will likely require again changing or cutting/grinding the axle, and possibly a little re dishing. 

I might have a freehub if you want to try this, and some uniglide cassettes/cogs also.

Andrew

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Feb 23, 2014, 4:04:56 PM2/23/14
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John, I've just found what you are asking for,coincidentally in amongst a pile of bike stuff I'm selling to finance a 650b randonneur. It's a low-ish end Shimano FH-HB20. At the moment it's part of a wheelset with some quite straight Kin Lin rims, but to get it to you from Australia at any reasonable postage I'd need to send just the hub. I've got some dura-ace quality steel balls to put in the wheel bearings though. The free hub feels good.

Andrew

James McKinley

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Feb 23, 2014, 9:03:25 PM2/23/14
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I think I've got what you want, see the image.  It's yours for postage, whole wheel or just the hub.  Not sure how to tell hyper-glide from uni-glide.

Jim
photo (6).JPG

Andrew

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Feb 24, 2014, 12:41:39 AM2/24/14
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The offers just get better......make sure you take the cassette off before you pull the wheel apart - you'll never hold just the hub tight enough in a vice without damaging it. 

HG has the sculpted indents in the sides of the teeth to help with shifting.  Uni-glide and other earlier teeth are all pretty regular with squarer tops to each tooth.  Sheldon Brown has  pics to tell the difference.

Nick Payne

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Feb 24, 2014, 12:47:16 AM2/24/14
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Uniglide cassettes are held on by the smallest cog being threaded onto the cassette body, which has a thread cut into the outside of it. On Hyperglide cassettes, all cogs are splined and the cassette is held in place by a lockring that screws onto a thread cut into the inside of the body. Quite a few hubs from around the date of the changeover from Uniglide to Hyperglide had cassette bodies that will take either cassette - the bodies are threaded both internally for a lockring and externally for a cog.

Nick
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bikerbob

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Feb 24, 2014, 10:17:49 AM2/24/14
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John,

They are available as NOS from Chain Reaction:  http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-rsx-a410-rear-hub/rp-prod87011

I bought one a year ago, and like other reviewers say, the grease is old and you will need to overhaul the hub, but big deal since they are so low priced.  Even with shipping the total was abour $20.

... Bob
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