Hanging Edelux II

[BA]

Did anyone else notice that Peter White has the hanging Edelux II listed on his site? 

http://peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt-headlights.asp

Has anyone used one yet, and if so, any feedback on it? 

Thanks!
Blake Anderson
coping with the winter doldrums in Lincoln Nebr.

[Guy Washburn]

Rats. Just bought the upright version. Haven't even installed it yet...

[Jan Heine]

The lights aren't available yet, even if they are listed on Peter White's site. They are expected in mid-March. Since we are the main instigators of this project, we'll be the first to get them. If you'd like to be alerted, you can sign up for our customer newsletter at

http://www.compasscycle.com/newsletter.html

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
Seattle WA USA
http://www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[Mark Bulgier]

Jan Heine wrote:

> The lights aren't available yet, even if they are listed on Peter White's site. They are expected in mid-March.

> Since we are the main instigators of this project, we'll be the first to get them. 

Will it have the same lack of a tail light attachment?  I know why they left it off, on the original hanging Edelux, but I wish they could come up with a good way to have a tail light wired to a hanging lamp. That's been a deal-breaker for me so far.  Maybe I'll just have to get over it.

Mark Bulgier
Seattle

[somervillebikes]

Mark,

According to Peter White's website, two versions of the Hanging Edelux II will be offered: one with and one without taillight control, so it looks like they've responded to that common complaint.

I'm still scratching my head why Schmidt designed the original hanging Edelux I without taillight control, seeing as <1% of owners had the luxury of a separate integrated switch (like a stem switch).  Puzzled by this, I decided to take one apart and find out why. I knew they had to eliminate the taillight terminal with the new mounting position so that water pooling wouldn't be an issue, but I couldn't figure out why they didn't solve the taillight issue another way when there was a very obvious solution.  I did learn that the taillight output circuit was still there on the circuit board, with nothing soldered to it.  By replacing the stock 2-conductor co-axial wire with 3-conductor tri-axial wire (that looks identical and has the same 3mm round O.D), I was able to reintroduce taillight control. I ended up modifying a handful of these lights for people.  Looks like I won't need to with the new Edelux II...

Anton

[Jan Heine]

Schmidt asked us what we wanted, since the hanging lights were our idea in the first place. We told them that we wanted one version that had the taillight connection and switch (but no sensor, since the sensor doesn't really work when you put the light underneath a handlebar bag). We also asked for a second version that has neither taillight connector nor switch, for bikes with external switches.

It appears that we are getting what we asked for, but as always, I am ready to make announcements when I have the product in my hands...

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
Seattle WA USA
http://www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

-- 

[Lee Legrand]

Is there a way to set up these lights with a switch for a bike that looks more integrated?  I have seen bicycles that have a switch part of a threadless headset fed steering tube but not for a bicycle that uses a threaded headset.  Excuse me if something like this has been answered before but I do not this light nor have I seen pictures in which headlights for a threaded headset does not look like it has not been added on as in after thought.

On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 10:42 PM, Jan Heine <hei...@earthlink.net> wrote:

At 6:53 PM -0800 2/26/15, Mark Bulgier wrote:

Schmidt asked us what we wanted, since the hanging lights were our idea in the first place. We told them that we wanted one version that had the taillight connection and switch (but no sensor, since the sensor doesn't really work when you put the light underneath a handlebar bag). We also asked for a second version that has neither taillight connector nor switch, for bikes with external switches.

It appears that we are getting what we asked for, but as always, I am ready to make announcements when I have the product in my hands...

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
Seattle WA USA
http://www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

-- 

[Steve Park]

Yay!
Been waiting on one of these to light up my Weigle.

On Thursday, February 26, 2015 at 6:07:32 PM UTC-5, Blake Anderson wrote:

[somervillebikes]

Lee,

This is easily done on threadless systems, but for threaded systems with quill stems, it's much more of a challenge and require a completely custom solution.  I've toyed with the idea of integrating a headset-style rotary switch inside the end of the handlebar, like a bar-end plug, but it would require a very creative exit point for the wiring, possibly routing into the stem from the handlebar clamp area (totally internalized) and down through a hole in the expander wedge.  Very tricky, but the idea keeps coming back to me. It would require a lot of custom fabrication.

Other than that, it's possible to fabricate a discreet switch on a fender taillight, which usually have a lot of free usable space inside for some type of flush-mounted button switch. It could control the headlight, rather than the headlight switch controlling the taillight.

Anton

[Lee Legrand]

Hi Anton,

I am aware of the solutions using threadless but I was looking for more of a solution using threaded headsets.  I have seen something of a solution but I cannot tell from the pictures how it is setup.  It is a Rene Herse 1952, randonneur bicycle with a switch/lever located on a seatpost, just to the side of tail light.  Not sure if you have a threaded headset, how you can run a wire past the expanded wedge and into the top tube to the seat post.  Here is a picture of what I have found.

http://www.reneherse.com/RHchrome.html

The description says "Rene Herse dynamo lever". 

[Alex Wetmore]

I'd do it by making a custom quill stem and mounting a small switch on the side of the forward extension.  A hole could be drilled in the wedge to pass the wire through down into the steerer.

It would be much easier to mount the switch on the back of the handlebar bag rack.  This location is close to the rider's hands, yet out of the way.

I personally wouldn't drill out handlebars unless they were sleeved and the hole was in the center of the sleeve.  That could be used and seems to be what Anton was thinking about.  It would be pretty tricky to get everything routed properly.

The switch on the Schmidt is pretty nice and low profile.  If moving the switch to a custom location is difficult then I'd personally avoid it.

alex

---

From: 65...@googlegroups.com <65...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Lee Legrand <krm...@gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 8:39 AM
To: somervillebikes
Cc: 65...@googlegroups.com; Jan Heine; Mark Bulgier; blakean...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [650B] Hanging Edelux II

 

[Jan Heine]

If you want a switch in the steerer tube, you need an empty steerer tube... The easiest way to do this is to braze a smaller-diameter extension into the top of the steerer tube, and then clamp a smaller-diameter custom-made stem to this. That is what Herse, Singer and Daudon did. Daudon put a tool kit into the now-empty steerer - which is where I got the idea to put a rotating switch there...

With an Aheadset system, you need to have a way to pre-load the headset. Either, you remove the switch assembly every time you tighten the headset (as Hahn Rossman does), or you use an external collar to pre-load the headset rather than the star-fangled nut (Boulder Bicycles does that).

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
Seattle WA USA
http://www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

[Mark Bulgier]

Lee Legrand wrote:

> I have seen something of a solution but I cannot tell from the pictures how it is setup.  It is a Rene Herse 1952, randonneur

> bicycle with a switch/lever located on a seatpost, just to the side of tail light. http://www.reneherse.com/RHchrome.html

Lee, that's a mechanical device that moves the bottle-style generator away from the rim or tire where it rubs when turned on.  It's not a "light switch" in the sense of interrupting the electrical circuit.  SP makes a front hub generator that can be switched off mechanically, but that's an outlier -- most hubs are "always on" mechanically, so what you need is an electrical switch.

Alex Wetmore wrote:
> A hole could be drilled in the wedge to pass the wire through down into the steerer.

Or just get one of the wedges that come with lightening holes built in to the extrusion.  Plenty of room for wires, and lighter too (attachments)

Mark Bulgier
Seattle

[somervillebikes]

If the wiring hole is in the center of the clamp area, that is not where stress risers form. I would propose having a wiring hole centered in the clamp area, and aligned with the hole in the clamp where the stem extension is joined.  The wire would route through the extension and through another hole to where the neck and quill are.  Then it would pass through the a perforated wedge like the one proposed by Mark.

I think the idea of a little rotary switch in place of the bar-end plug, made specifically to look the part, would be the bee's knees of integrated switches for threaded quill stems.

Anton

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[Mark Bulgier]

Anton,

I'm not sure I like the idea of a (presumably expensive) custom made part out at the end of the bar, first thing to hit when the bike falls over.

But I'm not the intended customer for such a thing -- I just want the switch on the headlight. I see the appeal of the trick internal routing, and I've been known to succumb to various kinds kinds of trickness over the years, but I like my lighting to be kept simple as possible.

Just my own idiosyncratic whim, not casting aspersions on anyone who wants trick internal routing and custom switches. I admire them in fact, just don't want them on my bike. Probably finicky to install, and likely would make it harder to swap out stems or bars, which I seem to do more than most folks.

Mark Bulgier

[odds...@gmail.com]

" Daudon put a tool kit into the now-empty steerer - which is where I got the idea to put a rotating switch there.."

Bit of a thread hijack, but when I read from Jan that I had to do a double take. A tool kit inside the steerer tube? How can that be? Wouldn't you need a tool to get the tool kit? Makes for an amusing circular puzzle.

Well a little time with Msr. Google provided this image: https://vintagebicyclerestoration.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/2014-03-07-001-028.jpg

The top cap screws onto the top of the steerer. Unscrew it to reveal a tube that holds the tool kit. Cool! Only question that remains is what tools of significance could possibly be held within this thin little tube?

[Jan Heine]

At 4:11 PM -0800 2/27/15, Mark Bulgier wrote:

>But I'm not the intended customer for such a thing -- I just want
>the switch on the headlight. I see the appeal of the trick internal
>routing, and I've been known to succumb to various kinds kinds of
>trickness over the years, but I like my lighting to be kept simple
>as possible.

Internal wiring actually is the simplest and safest form. It's
protected from the elements. Both my car and my house have internal
wiring, and I never worry about them. On my bikes, the same... When I
used to have external wiring, it tended to get snagged and broken...

However, internal wiring does take more time to set up initially.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle WA USA
http://www.bikequarterly.com

[Jan Heine]

There is a photo of the toolkit on a Daudon in our book The Golden Age of Handbuilt Bicycles. The tool kit holds a few Mafac wrenches, plus tire levers. All you need to work on your Daudon - the bolts are standardized in a few sizes...

Faure (also in the book) put the tools on a handlebar plugs, which you unscrewed to get to the tools, which folded out like a Swiss Army Knife...

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle WA USA
http://www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

[Mark Bulgier]

Sorry, I meant putting the remote switch in the handlebar as Anton was envisioning. That was what I thought would be too finicky.

I like running wires inside the fork, frame, fenders and/or racks. Agreed they are much safer there, the bike is easier to clean, and it just looks nice.

Mark Bulgier

On Feb 27, 2015 4:28 PM, "Jan Heine" <hei...@earthlink.net> wrote:

At 4:11 PM -0800 2/27/15, Mark Bulgier wrote:

But I'm not the intended customer for such a thing -- I just want the switch on the headlight. I see the appeal of the trick internal routing, and I've been known to succumb to various kinds kinds of trickness over the years, but I like my lighting to be kept simple as possible.

Internal wiring actually is the simplest and safest form. It's protected from the elements. Both my car and my house have internal wiring, and I never worry about them. On my bikes, the same... When I used to have external wiring, it tended to get snagged and broken...

However, internal wiring does take more time to set up initially.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle WA USA
http://www.bikequarterly.com

[somervillebikes]

Mark, not to belabor the point, but I am working on a design for a rotary switch that could, in theory, be used as a bar-end switch that would be pretty resilient to crashes. The shape would be tapered conical, much like some common bar-end plugs, and would not really stick out far enough to be vulnerable to getting whacked.

Regardless, it looks promising that the new Edelux II hanging variants will have the option of built-in taillight switching.

Anton

[satanas]

I'm not convinced internal wiring is more reliable, or less hassle. I have a Tony Oliver frame which has ports for internal wiring just behind the head tube (under the downtube), behind the BB (for a Sanyo BB dyno input), and at the rear of the LH chainstay (for the tail light - mounted on the fender). It all looks very cool and neat, but on more than one occasion the lights failed and I ended up bypassing the internal wiring to fix them; this happened on randonnees. Now, maybe things are better now lights have earth wiring, and other details may have improved since the 1980s, but based on my experiences I'd rather have the wiring where I can get at it easily, and use an LED tail light with batteries so there's no long wiring runs to get damaged. This may be less elegant, but it's easy to fix IME.

Later,

Stephen (who believes in Murphy's Law)

[Jan Heine]

Ideally, internal wiring means that all the
wiring is internal, with no ports that transition
from external to internal. With the SON SL system
and the René Herse carbon brush in the headset,
it is almost achievable. On my latest bike, the
only place where the wire is exposed is about 1"
from the front fender edge to the headlight.

Of course, it has to be done right. If you run
the wire over a sharp edge (say at the joint
between down and seat tubes inside the BB shell),
it will eventually rub through the insulation and
cause a short. If you eliminate the sharp edge
while building the frame and then reinforce the
wire with heat-shrink tubing, it should be fine
for decades. In fact, I have ridden unrestored
René Herse bikes from the 1950s where the lights
work just fine.

It's often a choice between "unlikely to go
wrong" and "easy to fix". Most of the world has
settled on the former, but the bike world still
isn't ready for the high standards of fabrication
that requires, so we are stuck with "probably
will go wrong, so let's make it easy to fix". No
cars run all the wires, fuel and brake lines on
the outside of the body, so they are easier to
fix (and will get ripped off in every fender
bender, as well as snag your clothes as you get
in and out of the car). They are internal, but
done well enough that they rarely go wrong (at
least if you have a quality car). Bikes can be
built to the same standards, but unfortunately,
they rarely are.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle WA USA
http://www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

At 6:08 AM -0800 2/28/15, satanas wrote:
>I'm not convinced internal wiring is more
>reliable, or less hassle. I have a Tony Oliver
>frame which has ports for internal wiring just
>behind the head tube (under the downtube),
>behind the BB (for a Sanyo BB dyno input), and
>at the rear of the LH chainstay (for the tail
>light - mounted on the fender). It all looks
>very cool and neat, but on more than one
>occasion the lights failed and I ended up
>bypassing the internal wiring to fix them; this
>happened on randonnees.

--

[Rick Johnson]

On 2/28/2015 8:26 AM, Jan Heine wrote:
> Most of the world has settled on the former, but the bike world still
> isn't ready for the high standards of fabrication that requires, so we
> are stuck with "probably will go wrong, so let's make it easy to fix".
> No cars run all the wires, fuel and brake lines on the outside of the
> body, so they are easier to fix (and will get ripped off in every
> fender bender, as well as snag your clothes as you get in and out of
> the car). They are internal, but done well enough that they rarely go
> wrong (at least if you have a quality car). Bikes can be built to the
> same standards, but unfortunately, they rarely are.

That's an excellent point Jan. I come from a background of motorsports
(cars and motorcycles) where failure in competition is not an option. I
know of people who were fired from very high profile positions over a
single failed terminal connection. Now I design industrial and
commercial electronics - some applications for military aviation and
others that guarantee a 20 year harsh environment service life.

When I look at the state of anything electrical pertaining to bicycles
it is clear that the industry as a whole has a lot to learn in that
area. Electrical systems can be incredibly reliable but details matter -
beginning with the engineering, going through material selection and
finishing with process consistency while building the final product.

There is a saying that goes "90% of electrical problems are mechanical".
Meaning of course that most problems are with how the system was
designed, built, installed or maintained - not a fault with the
electrical function.

Rick

Rick Johnson
Bend Oregon

* * *

[Jason Marshall]

Jan makes a good point about how cars and houses are internally wired and I agree that internal wiring has it's advantages including superior aesthetics.  In fairness though most of us don't take our cars or houses apart, pack them in a case and fly across the planet.  If one needs to remove the bars, rack, and or fork that adds another set of problems to consider. 

O

[somervillebikes]

The SON SL hub and carbon brush certainly take lighting integration to the next level, but until that level of integration becomes mainstream, there are many ways to make semi-integrated wiring systems reliable and convenient for disassembly.  Are the thousands of wires and electrical junctions in a car all part of one master wiring harness?  No. They are hundreds of sub-harnesses all plugged into each other, with sometimes up to a dozen plug junctions along their paths.  Are these the main cause of electrical problems in cars? No.  Wire termination has come a long days since the old Lucas ("Prince of Darkness") automotive electrical systems. They've become optimized to the point of being non-issues.  I see no reason why that can't be the case with bicycle electrical systems. I've been working with electrical systems for 30 years (automotive and home, and bicycles for five), and from my perspective most failures come from poor design and/or poor execution, but terminal connections are not in and of themselves unreliable.

The four most important elements to robust electrical wiring are proper securing points, appropriate strain reliefs where required, abrasion resistance where required, and robust termination that will not corrode, nor loosen from vibrations or repeated disconnecting/reconnecting.  Anywhere where a wire passes through a planar hole, such as through a brazed frame ring or fender, there should be a rubber or plastic grommet.  Even the most inexpensive Dutch city bikes often have these.  Strain reliefs, which can take the form of a section of shrink tubing annealed over the wire, should be used anywhere where the wire is subject to kinking. Shrink tubing can also be used as for abrasion resistance in areas where a grommet can't be used (such as when a wire enters or exits a fender rolled edge).

Here's an example of appropriate grommeting, strain relief and termination. This bike was designed to have the rear fender easily removable despite having a wired taillight.

Here's an example of strain/abrasion relief where a grommet is not possible (exiting a fender's rolled edge-- notice too there is a grommet where the wire will pass through the fender to the taillight). Even though the exit hole in the rolled edge is deburred, repeated vibration over decades can eventually result in the wire's insulation getting abraded. The shrink tubing is pretty tough, so will prevent that.

Anton

[Lee Legrand]

I do not like the idea of a wire running in the fenders where the wheel is turning.  Almost feels like something could be caught from debri flying into the fender and pull that wire out and damage it.  How safe is the wire under that fender Anton?

--

[somervillebikes]

Lee, there's always a chance that the wire will get snagged, but in practice this is rare.  Old French city bikes had wires running under the fender, and occasionally they would get abraded by the tire if allowed to sag.  I mentioned that one of the key elements in reliable wiring is proper securing points, and what I didn't show you is how that wire is secured between the rolled edge and the taillight grommet. The wire is supported through a hollow guide (which is bolted to the taillight stud) on its way to the grommet. Here's a pic:

Sure there's still a chance the wire can get snagged by a twig or something, but in five years of doing this sort of wiring (and a lot of riding on trails/gravel/mud) I've not had an issue.  A seat-post taillight with wiring that never has to exit the frame obviously will be more immune than this, but if you want a wired taillight fender, this is how it has to be.

Anton

[William Lindsay]

Anton

As you know I'm a big fan of your work.  As I think you know, I'm of the school of thought "do it right or don't do it at all".  Your wiring work shows me how to do it right, and in part that's why I "don't do it at all" for my taillight.  Since there are really cheap, really light, great looking, bright, and automatic battery powered fender taillights, that's the route I've taken.  When I get a custom, though, I'm going to consult with you.

I had an idea.  The connectorless Schmidt hub uses the metal nearby for a conductive path, namely the fork itself.  SKF plastic fenders are really isolated strips of metal sandwiched in recycled plastic.  Wouldn't it be kind of slick if one of those strips was the conductor for your taillight?  Terminated right at the mounting hole, the act of attaching a taillight makes the connection there.  The act of bolting the fender to the chainstay bridge makes the connection there.  Then there's no wire at all snaked through a rolled edge.  It would be even more integrated.  I can't think of a reason that wouldn't work.  It would just take the engineering and manufacturing will on the part of those who make the fenders. 

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, Ca

[Jason Marshall]

I like this concept Bill.  Or alternatively how about a manufacturer offering pre-wired fender that has secure connection breaks and minimal exposed wiring.

[Eric Keller]

My understanding is that the SKF has two strips to serve as conductors for a light.  The gutter inside the Berthoud fenders works really well to hold wire.  Just do something to make sure that the ends pull the wire lightly under tension and it will stay in the gutter no problem.  I also use glue

[Mark Bulgier]

William Lindsay wrote:

SKF plastic fenders are really isolated strips of metal sandwiched in recycled plastic.  Wouldn't it be kind of slick if one of those strips was the conductor for your taillight? 

We had that back in the 80s!  Esge fenders (precursor of SKF) had three metal strips insulated from each other in plastic, center strip for ground.  They even supplied little plug-in jacks that screwed into the plastic with sort of knurling around the edges to bite into the metal for a good contact.  Then there was the male end that crimped onto the wire, and plugged into this jack, for a quick-disconnect.

Not as well thought out as it should have been -- the male connector was aluminum, so you couldn't solder it to the wire (with any normal solder anyway), and they tended to crack when you attempted to crimp them.  I seem to remember we got the system working after a fashion, but it wasn't as reliable as I'd have liked.  I honestly don't remember why we stopped using this method but I assume it was because it wasn't reliable.

I still have a couple of them, here's some pics (attached)

Mark Bulgier
Seattle

[somervillebikes]

Bill, that's a great idea. I vaguely remember others talking about this... not sure if there are nominally one or two conductor "Strips" embedded in the thermoplastic, and whether one of them gets grounded when bolting to the fender to the frame.  I definitely like the idea! I have a set of SKF fenders in my bin, way too narrow for any of my current bikes, but I'll check and see what type of metal strips they have built-in.

Anton

[Nick Payne]

I still have a taillight somewhere that was specifically designed to fit an ESGE fender and use those conductive strips to carry the current from the generator or battery. But it's been consigned to the parts bin ever since decent flashing LED lights became available.

[Rick Johnson]

If anyone wants to chase this "power in the fender rabbit" (what could be a modern "embedded power" application) I suggest looking at Flexible Flat Cable (FFC). This is an increasingly common flat flexible cable system that could be laminated into the structure of a fender or applied under a tape strip. Some varieties even have an adhesive backing.
As the efficiency of LED lighting has improved the lower power requirements make this approach something worth considering. For instance the common Parlex PSR1635 series will carry 3A of current and is less than 0.2mm thick and 8mm wide (for two conductors).

YMMV.

Rick

Rick Johnson
Bend Oregon

*    *    *

[somervillebikes]

3A rating is 30-fold higher than the current needed by a taillight, which is nominally 0.1A, so that FFC is pretty compelling!  I might have to consider this as an alternative to using the rolled edge as a conduit for a single conductor wire...

Thanks for that link...

Anton

[Andrew Fatseas]

Ikuo at Grand Bois cycles just uses a normal piece of wire and tapes it the underside of the fender with aluminium tape (thick, strong aluminium tape that I think may be 3M).  The tape is very tough and does not come off.  It's a lot simpler than trying to shove a wire into the rolled edge of the fender...

[Steve Chan]

   Looks like you could use the FFC to wire up the power from the dyno hub to everywhere else on the bike too, couldn't you?

[somervillebikes]

I would have no qualms with the integrity of a taped setup, but coming from a company that builds up TOEI frames to the highest standards, there's something about it that just feels short-cutted. I did something similar, not identical, and it was 100% bulletproof until I ended up recycling the fender for another build. I glued short pieces of aluminum conduit with a 3mm I.D. along the underside of the fender, and routed 3mm O.D.co-axial wiring through the guides to the taillight.  

FWIW, I've used those sheets of aluminum tape for other applications and can confirm that it can be used permanently. I use small pieces of it to patch unused holes in fenders that are re-cycled for other bikes, or in the case of VO fenders that have the pre-cut vertical slot for chainstay bridge attachment, I cover that slot up. Otherwise road spray oozes through and deteriorates the leather washer prematurely. Here's a shot of a patch job:

[Rick Johnson]

I don't see any reason why not. The cable is available in many pitches and number of conductors so there is a lot of possibilities. Of course it would be up to the installer to work out how to integrate the connections.

Rick

Rick Johnson
Bend Oregon

*    *    *

[Clayton]

Anyone selling actual switches outside of Boulderbike (they are out of stock)?

[Lee Legrand]

Clayton,

I think they are built by Boulder so you would have to wait for them unless you are willing to start a business building light switches

[Jan Heine]

The switch itself is a standard part, which I buy from Mouser Electronics. When I first developed the system, I wrote an article in Bicycle Quarterly that showed how I integrated it into my Urban Bike, with photos. It also lists the part number. That was in Volume 6, No. 2...

Since then, both Boulder Bicycles and Hahn Rossman have introduced similar systems based on this idea, but it wouldn't be hard to recreate these if you have a lathe.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle WA USA
http://www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

[Clayton Scott]

Should have that issue at home. Will take a look.Thanks Jan.

On Mon, Mar 2, 2015 at 2:21 PM, Jan Heine <hei...@earthlink.net> wrote:

The switch itself is a standard part, which I buy from Mouser Electronics. When I first developed the system, I wrote an article in Bicycle Quarterly that showed how I integrated it into my Urban Bike, with photos. It also lists the part number. That was in Volume 6, No. 2...

Since then, both Boulder Bicycles and Hahn Rossman have introduced similar systems based on this idea, but it wouldn't be hard to recreate these if you have a lathe.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
Seattle WA USA
http://www.bikequarterly.com

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[Andrew Fatseas]

Having experimented with routing wires through fender edges etc I actually think that the Grand Bois solution is superior.  It doesn't put the wire under any stresses, it's easily removable if you want to change or redo the wiring, the tape is very tough and blends with the mudguard (not that anyone sees it because it's underneath), and it is repairable on the side of the road if something goes wrong.

I know where you're coming from in terms of it not feeling like an elaborate constructeur solution befitting of the highest frames in the land, but it works.

Cheers

Andrew