SON SL connectorless dynamo to light?

[Sam Kling]

I have a new SON SL connectorless dynamo wheel and a new custom fork to match. But I'm totally stumped as to how to connect it to the light--a Schmidt Edelux II.

There's a wire coming out of the fork near the crown, and a wire (2, actually) attached to the light. How do I connect them together? I can't find any instructions anywhere and am at a complete loss. 

Thanks for any wisdom!

[Corey Thompson]

Hi Sam,

I've always treated the inner wire on the Edelux (the one that has clear insulation) as the hot, and the wire that surrounds it as ground.  With a connectorless "SL" type fork, the fork itself acts as the ground.  So you attach the wire coming from the fork to the center wire on the light (this can be done with small plugs, or directly solder the wires together), and the other wire on the light to the light mount/rack/fork.  Schmidt supplies a ring terminal for this with a 6mm hole, but if you don't have one, you can just pinch the wire between a couple washers on the light mounting bolt.

-Corey

Thompson Custom Bicycles
Olympia, WA

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[Sam Kling]

Thanks, this is super helpful!

On Jul 2, 2023, at 12:56 PM, Corey Thompson <thompson...@gmail.com> wrote:



[rfa...@gmail.com]

From my experience the negative outer core of coaxial edelux wire doesn’t need to be connected to anything as the body of the light is grounded. Therefore the outer core wires can be clipped off and the. Sealed with a bit of heat shrink with a 2mm bullet connector on the inner live wire.  

[Corey Thompson]

"From my experience the negative outer core of coaxial edelux wire doesn’t need to be connected to anything as the body of the light is grounded. Therefore the outer core wires can be clipped off and the. Sealed with a bit of heat shrink with a 2mm bullet connector on the inner live wire. 

That's an excellent point, but test first because not every generation/version of the Edelux grounds through the body!  Also make sure that you have a good metal to metal contact between your light mount and your fork.  Thick paint or powder coat will act as an insulator and the light won't work. 

Slightly unrelated, but if anyone from Schmidt is reading this... could you PLEASE get rid of the integrated wire and just use a screw terminal like on the unswitched upside down version?  Please?

[Devin McCutchen]

Sorry to resurrect a zombie thread, but I have a related question. Through a series of trades I ended up with the odd-ball UNSWITCHED hanging Edelux ( SCH680000). This is designed for some sort of secondary/external switch (like a fancy stem cap switch. The light has one plugged terminal and no wire leads.

Just wanting to ground truth my thinking here: I need one wire to go from the dynamo hot lead to the single port on the mount. I then have two options for the return current: either find a way to connect the negative terminal on the hub to the frame in some way in order to return it to the hub body (assuming a clear metal-to-metal pathway), OR I can use a second wire to directly connect the hub's negative to the hub body. AM I right here? OI just can't fd a wiring diagram anywhere to make sure I'm not off base.

Secondarily, any thoughts/help on the smartest war to wire-in a tail light? I assume it would have to be using the hot wire in parallel since there is no tail light spade connector as with other Edelux lights I've had.

Thanks for the help!

 - Devin

Sacramento, CA

[Jeff Bertolet in Raleigh, NC]

As far as wiring the headlight, that sounds right to me.

For the taillight, I don't know of any taillights that will handle a hot wire from the hub, it will overload it and burn it out within a few days/weeks. A company I assemble bikes for did this 15 years ago and had to replace a bunch of taillights and we had to rewire the front end.

Taillights are designed to handle lower voltages (and DC current, IIRC), and headlights with taillight leads are designed to provide that lower voltage and change the hub AC current to DC for the benefit of the taillight.