I finally got around to my first real ride of the season, about month
behind schedule. I was able to get an impression of the new Lyon fork
on mixed terrain. Overall, I would say the bike feels the way it did
before-- since the geometry has not changed. But slight to moderate
bumps are better damped by the more compliant fork. Large bumps-- tree
roots, pot holes, etc, still feel about the same, but those are less common. For 95% of the road imperfections you feel when
you ride, the new fork smooths them out. The bike still shimmies, no
change there (I kept the same Cane Creek headset, but I might swap it
out for a Miche roller bearing unit).
I had been gifted a SRAM
Rival road group last fall, so I decided the existing Stag build would
be ported over to my new L'Avecaise, and the Stag would receive the SRAM
group. This is my first foray into SRAM territory, and so far I like
it. The double-tap shifting took about 10 seconds to become familiar
with, and after one ride it feels completely intuitive, and the weight
of the action feels just right. I like it better than Shimano's
integrated shifting. I haven't tried Campy Ergo, but that's going on my
L'Avecaise build. I did have to ditch the Rival road crankset for a
SRAM mtn double with gearing more appropriate to what I need, and that
ended up being a hassle because I learned you can't use a SRAM road
double FD with a SRAM mtn double crankset. Ugh, what a convoluted market
of proprietary compatibilities. It's insane. Eventually I settled on
an XX double 42/28 with an X9 double FD. I'm very pleased with the
shifting. The Rival "Wifli" RD with medium cage handles a 32T cog just
fine, no shifting issues there, either. I do note that the SRAM
drivetrain is much quieter than the Shimano DA7800 it replaces.
Since
the Stag's earlier dynamo wheelset built around polished PL23s were getting ported
over to the L'Avecaise, I took advantage of Pacenti's sale to pick up a
set of SL23s in black, to go with the grey/black SRAM group. I laced
them to a set of older DA7700 9-speed era hubs, which spin beautifully.
No dynamo setup, I figure I can always grab the L'Avecaise's dynamo
wheel if I need it. I also picked up another set of Compass Babyshoe
Passes, Extralight, in black. I'm pretty happy with how it all came
together. I had never build V-section rims, but was joyed with how quickly and evenly they tensioned.
New cockpit with VO decaleur-supported Berthoud GB28. I'm really liking the feel and action of the SRAM shifters.
New
Lyon fork with mid-fork low rider braze ons, specified behind the
blade. The paint matching is not perfect, but damn close. Also new
Portland Design Works fender release tabs, for enhanced safety on woody
trails.
Borrowed my friend JPT's mudflap idea, translucent plastic with a strip of reflective tape.
Cateye
battery taillight with light and motion sensing, and solar charging!
Too bad it's a weak LED, and only does flash mode. Still a neat little
light.
--Anton
Anton, thanks for update. I continue to be impressed with the Stag's performance. While the bike filled my desire for fender-ed bike with big tires, lights, front loadable, for distance riding, I really did not want to love this bike. It was an experiment. I was dubious of the tubing spec. (acoustically it does not sound like thin-wall) I also have other "nicer" steel bikes. But after a year and a half on this and my other bikes, I am convinced that the sensations I feel while climbing or cruising at speed are not imagined. It accellerates more slowly initially than my lighter bikes, but does so smoothly and continues accellerating with ease, surprisingly so for such a heavy bike. Sometimes the other bikes have that initial jump but seem more difficult to sustain. Also on climbs it never has that bogging down feel. It just keeps going. I am able to maintain cruising speed on flats with ease. I guess that's what we mean by "planing".
The handling is fine also. It has a bit of a noodley feeling with big, quick adjustments of the steering, but under normal riding is not an issue. Bike is just as stable as my other bikes at high speed and may be a faster descender, not sure. My bike does slowly develop shimmy hands-off at high speed. I decided I am okay with that. I had issues with my Miche headset binding. Pretty sure it was defect. Miche on girlfriend's bike worked fine, binding predictably. So I went with Cane Creek 110. Also, I sometimes use small saddle bag on the back which actually seems to mitigate the tendency toward shimmy.
With Paul Touring cantis braking has been great-better than all but the short-reach caliper brakes. As good or better than the mid reach caliper on one of my bikes. Recently, I accidentally got the "Supra" version of the Kool Stop salmon pads rather than the "Mountain" version, also salmon, and found that they require much less toe-in to avoid judder and squeal. They also seem to have more meat on them.
Hi Evan. The Lyon fork definitely fixed the problem of the overly rigid Stag fork, so the ride is improved.
Comparing it to the L'Avecaise, they're very similar, and the fit of the L'Avecaise has been replicated from the Stag using a shorter top tube and longer stem. The L'Aveciase rises above in a few areas. Both bikes are equally smooth and supple riding. But the L'Avecaise is supremely stable at all speeds, with not a hint of shimmy or twitchiness. The shorter top tube with longer stem may have helped here. And it goes where my hips point it, with or without a front load, and more intuitively than the Stag (the Stag will go where I point it without a front load, but not with one). The L'Avecaise's trail is around 32mm, while the Stag's is 37mm. Not sure if this is a significant enough difference to feel, or if this is factoring into any of my qualitative comparisons of the two bikes, but there you have it.
"I've personally built a lot of bikes with trail numbers in the 38-40mm range and really like that. I found that this provides the best combination of riding well unloaded, with very heavy front loads, and with anything in between. It feels strange to have one universally good trail number, but it has worked for me across rando, touring, commuter/porteur, and cargo (cycle-truck) bikes. I think my most rando-esqe bike has more like 35mm trail, and the Travel Gifford that was used to test the Rat Trap Pass tires might also benefit from a little lower trail (since the high volume tires have more pneumatic trail).
30mm trail does work really well for the specific use of carrying a light load on the front. I find that makes it the front end feel too light and twitchy when there is no front load (where 40mm feels fine), and is also a little harder to control with very heavy front loads."
Since there is some discussion here about top tube length vs stem length and the effect on handing I was wondering about someone like myself who because of neck issues with age need to have their handlebars fairly high. Because of this I went with a Large sized frame, the 58 cm top tube length had me using a 60 cm stem. I wanted to keep the seat post at a minimum height so the handlebars were not too high. Handlebars are Nitto Noodles although I have been thinking of putting some V.O. Gran Cru Randonneurs in their place as it would allow more height, allowing me to lower the stem at least an inch which would look more balanced at least. I do have some other older bikes, one a 56 x 56 cm Fuji that is now 65b low trail - I use a 60mm stem on it with the V.O. Rando bars and sometimes find I need to position myself back over the Brooks B17 a bit more, although the ramps on the V/O/ are long allowing me to stretch out, as long as I have some decent height I am usually fine though I think I should get a slightly longer stem. Head and seat tube are both 73 degrees.