Weistek Ideawerk Plus

[Ayuready]

Hi Guys,

Looking around for a small printer workhorse which i can generally bring around in a car. Not exactly super portable but at least smaller than my Creator Pro.

Previously in another thread, JetGuy was giving his support behind this printer and I research a lot more but there was limited info on the net on the Weistek Printer. I also emailed Jetguy for some advice which he had taken his time to pen down his clarification to me despite his busy schedule.

Just wondering if any of you have been using this printer and if you can share if it comes with Nozzle fan? can't really tell from the various video i seen.

Secondly, the new model just launched, seems like an update. http://ideawerk3dprinter.com/16.html

From what i can see, the main upgrade seems to be a heat bed and a higher printing temp range.

Jetguy was explaining to me that this printer work off its own Doraware software which unfortunately do not work on mac, i google the hell out of the site and noticed they had released a special RepG edition that work with this printer and this printer accept the .X3G format.

This gotten me excited, do you think the fact that it is able to work with RegG being an indication that other slicer like maker ware, s3d will be able to work with this? I uploaded a .XML files found in the repG folder, not sure if its meant anything.

I am torned between the simple from printrbot, a cloned Up Plus (wow!3d mini from rep rapper @ http://www.reprap-walmart.com/goods.php?id=196 ) and this. I like this because of its touch screen and it may be easier for usage.

If this printer is able to work with other slicers beyond the Doraware and RepG, this will be the tipping point for me. Hope any other people who had experience with this printer can share. thank you.

Incase you are wondering why i am not considering the original Up Plus 2 is because, i do not really like to print in ABS in my home environment and i read all the temperature are fixed and you have to use proprietary filaments.

Appreciate all your help pls. Cheers!

p/s: Jetguy, thanks for your time on the email, i know you are at the maker faire and all the best to you and your bot!

[Jetguy]

FYI, the bot has an extremely good extruder that integrates the fan such that it cools the extruder and blows on the print via a duct.

Honestly, I cannot stress enough how good I think that extruder is. It uses ALL METAL parts for the feed system except the very top inlet guide which is non-critical to operation

I have never once had a jam, I've even extruded Ninjaflex with it.

[Ryan Carlyle]

Got any good pics / diagrams?

[Chris P]

FYI, the bot has an extremely good extruder that integrates the fan such that it cools the extruder and blows on the print via a duct.

I thought about doing this.  I think it's a bad idea:  The fan that cools the deposited plastic is variable power - the slicer and firmware set the power level depending on how much cooling is needed and material you're running.  So if the same fan is used to cool the cold section of the hotend, you're going to get massive swings in how much heat is removed, which is going to cause issues with consistent extrusion (the cap zone is moving around) and possibly jams in extreme cases.

I guess it would work if the cooling fan runs constantly, but that reduces the flexibility of the overall system.  Either you're printing PLA only and/or using a low CFM fan.

[Ayuready]

I am sold. Can't wait for the refresh version to make its way to the amazon.

[Ayuready]

Can't really wait for the plus anymore.

Going to order the ideawerk soon!

Wish Me luck !

Jetguy, the original ideawerk, what the temperature range? Can it print polycarbonate? Any Ptfe tube used? My ff has them and I hope the weistek open up a new printing dimension for exotic materials for me.

[Jetguy]

No PTFE, all metal hot end.

It has a rather large heater block that has zero insulation around it, but at the same time, the entire head is all metal (Ok, so there is this tiny bit of plastic above the extruder that simply is a guide to get the filament from the hole in the top to the drive gear system on the motor. I'm quite sure the entire system can take the temps and yes, you can edit them in the slicer.

I'm not sure what's up with the latest craze to print polycarbonate but Ok, why not.

[TobyCWood]

I do not understand something about this product... Jetguy writes that it has a Mightyboard yet it only runs with the included SW?  So... you can't print untethered with it... right? USB to computer only... and as such it will only talk to the computer via the Doraware so you cannot send a file to it any other way? Also, it is fully susceptible to fauxUSB(tty) noise issues.

hmmm... not sure i'd recommend that at all. The all metal hot end is great and a boon to overall reliability, but if the controller board is a mighty board then why hobble it with a proprietary front end? They give then they take away!

The Printrbot Metal simple did the opposite... There everything is open source but the UBIS hot end has a PTFE liner, which BTW DOES need service every now and then. It's $200 less, larger build area and can easily be upgraded to a S3D hot end and a HBP. Although it uses the Printrboard which is not as capable as a fully accessible mighty board. It will allow untethered printing, uses gcode so all the SW out there will work with it. It is built like a tank and includes an inductive sensor for auto plane leveling in the Z axis.

I'd look carefully at both before buying.

[Jetguy]

No, you print from SD card just like any other mightyboard based printer.

 

You could technically load sailfish firmware, but that would break the touchscreen LCD functionality thus making it more dificult to use, not easier. The problem is, it's not open source.

They did use the orignal MakerBot firmware and modded it to speak to the LCD module using serial. They pass certain things back and forth. Without open source, it's hard to duplicate that into a modded sailfish.

 

Because we also don't know the steps per mm for the axis and this homes to Z max, not Z min like most replicators, you must do some fancy footwork to find out what start.gcode is required to properly home this machine and print, and also use a custom config in either Rep-G, Makerware, or using GPX to encode the X3G with correct steps per mm for all the axis and include the correct start.gcode.

 

The way they made Doraware, I have not yet been able to hack out those pieces of info. I could guess on steps per mm and such but it's not easily found.

 

So again, no, you do not need to be tethered to a PC, there is a nice touch LCD that allows you to print X3G files from the SD card made by Doraware.

It's just that to date, without some otehr info, i cannot make a profile or config file that would print from another X3G AKA makerBot comaptible software. And unless you really get down to brass tacks, you aren't easily going to get a modified Sailfish firmware on this just quite yet.

 

The problem is, we are so used to wanting or needing those things, they really don't matter. To a novice, it works as advertised. Simply use Doraware, make your X3G, and print.

[Dan Newman]

On 25/09/2014, 10:42 AM, Jetguy wrote:
> No, you print from SD card just like any other mightyboard based printer.
>
> You could technically load sailfish firmware, but that would break the
> touchscreen LCD functionality thus making it more dificult to use, not
> easier. The problem is, it's not open source.
> They did use the orignal MakerBot firmware and modded it to speak to the
> LCD module using serial. They pass certain things back and forth. Without
> open source, it's hard to duplicate that into a modded sailfish.

If they started with the MakerBot firmware, then they are required to distribute
the full source upon demand. It's all part and parcel of the GPL which MBI
used. So, anyone who has one of these printers has had the binaries distributed
to them. They can therefore make a source demand based upon the GPL for the
sources.

The MightyBoard firmware from MBI is under GPL v3. See Section 6 which likely
covers how they are distributing binaries of their modified MightyBoard firmware.

Dan

[Christopher]

Does this mean that Flashforge,Mbot and other chinese clones need to release source for their boards ? 

[Dan Newman]

On 25/09/2014, 1:11 PM, Christopher wrote:
> Does this mean that Flashforge,Mbot and other chinese clones need to
> release source for their boards ?

Most of them are just installing Sailfish. If they make changes, then yes
they are required to make the revised sources available to anyone to whom
they distribute the binaries.

Dan

[Dan Newman]

On 25/09/2014, 1:11 PM, Christopher wrote:

> Does this mean that Flashforge,Mbot and other chinese clones need to
> release source for their boards ?

Or do you mean schematics for their boards? If that's what you mean,
then you'll need to look at the Mightyboard rev E Thing at thingiverse
and see what license MBI posted it under.

Dan

[Jetguy]

Again, just to be clear about the Weistek, from the tones(sounds it makes during startup and print), the fact it consumes X3G, the fact it runs on the mightyboard, I know it's derived from MakerBot firmware. I also believe it's not Sailfish because it cannot read 4GB SD cards and some other clues like the tones.

 

They might be violating the license, but that between MakerBot and them. To be honest, I think that is rather rampant across the field as Wanhao D4 OEM firmware is clearly not open source either, and I doubt early Flash Forge OEM firmware was following the licence either.

[Dan Newman]

On 25/09/2014, 1:55 PM, Jetguy wrote:
> Again, just to be clear about the Weistek, from the tones(sounds it makes
> during startup and print), the fact it consumes X3G, the fact it runs on
> the mightyboard, I know it's derived from MakerBot firmware. I also believe
> it's not Sailfish because it cannot read 4GB SD cards and some other clues
> like the tones.
>
> They might be violating the license, but that between MakerBot and them.

Anyone to whom they distribute their derived binaries can demand the sources
under the GPL. However, only MBI would have legal standing in a court of law.
Actually, since MBI's mightyboard sources include code derived from Marlin and
Sailfish, those copyright owners might have standing as well. But since
MBI has always been so careless with their sources and copyright notices,
it would likely require jumping through additional hoops to prove that Marlin
and Sailfish have a stake in the case as well. And then, we
are talking about a company in China where what IP law exists is mostly
lip service and for something as small as this, getting anything enforced
is no pratical. Asking nicely and pointing out the benefits of playing
nicely is likely the best course for anyone interested in obtaining the
sources.

Dan

P.S. Back in the early '80s when I was involved with some open source
software before the term existed, we had some difficulty with HP: they
had modified the sources (PMDF) for the HP 2000 minicomputer. But they
wouldn't share them as required by our simple one page license. So,
one of our customers at UC Irvine instigated a boycott and in the space
of about a month or so, there was over $2M in sales put on hold by
various universities around the country. That made HP stop and listen.
And no, I don't think that would work here though.

[Ayuready]

Hi guys, I love the discussion on this printer as this is pretty much where it get discuss before.

They now have a RepG version of slicer for usage on mac where they say is specifically for weistek.

I had attached a file I found from the repg folder with sole parameters in the first post, not sure if it meant anything. I hope some guru will be able to reverse engineer some of the step per mm, starting g code etc so that other slicer can be use.

[Ayuready]

Hi toby, I did consider the simple metal but the new capabilities that it will bring to the table for me is that I still can't print high temp material. So the weistek is more attractive at thr moment.

Jetguy, the printbed looks like MDF board, what the material they are using? Possible to replace with a thin sheet of glass?

[TobyCWood]

I have to agree with Jetguy on wondering why you are using the higher temp materials as such a high level requirement for a low end, beginner's 3D Printer. If the higher temp materials are so important to you then you may want to consider spending a little more. Hey... Jetguy... have you tried PET+ on the Weistek yet or maybe some bridge Nylon? I know of a guy around here who upgraded to S3D/HBP on his MSimple and is printing ABS and Nylon. Which was weird because if this guy wanted to he could have bought an F306.

[Ayuready]

Hi Toby,

On my own, I am looking for a small printer so if the weistek can extend my capabilities (an option which I not used I may or may not use) it makes it more attractive.

Sort of like a future proof. Rather than somewhere down the road I have to acquire a 3rd printer just because my two printer are limited by Ptfe.

That being said. Even if it can't print the high temp materials reliably, it still seems like a kick ass small printer to print my regular PLA and the portability is a added bonus.

Anyway welcome the insights bro!

[Jetguy]

FYI, the main bed is an aluminum plate (unheated). They include a removable thin perfboard plate meant to be held on with clips that they provide. I found that printing on painters tape applied directly to the aluminum plate works better than anything.

I'm looking at your file now and that's great, we have on piece of the puzzle, I just really need to get the start.gcode and then I can make us all custom profiles.

So we are a lot closer than I was a while back as far as getting alternate slicers to work. I'm afraid without their source though, getting a modified Sailfish on it is a bit of a stretch.

[Ayuready]

Hi Jetguy, there is a bunch of files in the repg folderi downloaded. I am not sure what matters and what are useless to this.

The entire file folders and program can be downloaded here with all the various codes and machine profile I think.

https://www.sendspace.com/file/3dbkma

[Jetguy]

FYI, I just downloaded the rep-g version myself and I think I can now at least get us some alternate software working.

Between the machine.xml and this start.gcode we have what we need. For those folks who read gcode all the time, enjoy this!

Notice the title "with a heated platform" even though the standard 150 doesn't have a heated platform, the mainboard is ready. But what makes this funny is that the title doesn't match the function of the file. M104 is the extruder heater command. There is no code in that file for a heated bed- yet the title says heated bed.

Another huge note, they are doing it oldschool like very early T-O-M days for Z axis homing offset in gcode, not using a stored offset in the firmware. Thus, it is extremely important to know that let's say you use the perfboard plate and then you want to try my printing on tape directly on the aluminum plate method. The resulting X3G files are DIFFERENT if you use the tool to reset the Z gap, it changes the start.gcode and obviously that's embedded into the resulting X3G file. On mine, the advantage of not using the perfboard is that I re-leveled the bed to the default 145mm max Z height the software defaults to. If you look in this file, you can see the g92 command defaulted to a value less than 145mm meaning it's compensating for the thickness of the perfboard.

My intent is to try to see if the firmware will store onboard offsets, get a proper eeprom map working and switch to a more modern recall homing offset style start.gcode.

So yes, this is major progress in the correct direction.

(**** beginning of start.txt ****)

(This file is for a WeisTek WT150 with)

(a heated build platform)

(**** begin initilization commands ****)

M104 S220 T0

G21 (Metric FTW)

G90 (Absolute Positioning)

M18 (This disables the stepper motors.)

G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 (Declare the current position to be (0,0,0,0,0))

(**** end initilization commands ****)

(**** begin homing ****)

G161 Y X F2500

G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0

G1 X5.0 Y5.0 Z-5.0 F450

G162 Z F450

G161 Y X F2500 (Home X axis maximum; go until reaching the end stop.)

G92 Z143.12

G92 X-75 Y-75 (set zero for X and Y)

(**** end homing ****)

M108 R8.0 (Extruder speed = max)

G1 Z10 F500

M6 T0 (wait for toolhead parts, nozzle, HBP, etc., to reach temperature)

M101

G04 P15000

M01

(**** end of start.txt ****)

[Ayuready]

Hi Jetguy,

Thanks a lot. I will love to pair this printer up with my s3d or even a makerware!

Glad that I am able to contribute in this small way.

Await ur deciphering !

[Jetguy]

FYI, using S3D is going to be rather easy to get going.

Note about workflow:

Because this uses radically different steps per mm than most machines, the easiest method today is going to be editing an S3D profile for the Weistek with the start and end.gcode function. Then you export normally and uncheck the X3G box because using S3D without specifying a custom ini file for GPX will produce an incorrect X3G. That said, simply export the gcode and open that gcode in the Weistek version of Rep-G. Then export to SD card.

At some point, I can probably streamline the process. Makerware is going to be a bit more challenging because they made it slightly harder to edit for different machines. The big kicker there is that some of the start.gcode required for the Weistek may induce error messages in the checks are built into Makerware. Long story but basically, MakerBot made it so that it's very tricky to modify start.gcode and not trigger the failsafe checks as a method to prevent other manufacturers from using their software (or that's the theory at least).

[Jetguy]

Another note, until I get this all sorted, the Weistek uses 0.4A rated motors, not the 0.84A rated motors like everyone else. As such, it's imperative to not send it the wrong start.gcode from say a replicator because it may increase the current settings to the motors. On a technical note, they wouldn't burn up or anything bad, they are rated for 12V and the little power brick isn't going to massively over power them. What will suffer is print quality and noise from current clipping. I need to ensure I can baseline the bot settings before we start experimenting and have a known point we can go back to if required.

So again, I know I can create  profile now that will work, I know all the rules and such behind this particular machine.

[Ayuready]

All are great news. Thanks for spending the time on this. Suddenly my purchase is worth a lot more with your Midas touch

[Dan Newman]

On 26/09/2014, 1:27 AM, Jetguy wrote:
> FYI, using S3D is going to be rather easy to get going.
> Note about workflow:
> Because this uses radically different steps per mm than most machines, the
> easiest method today is going to be editing an S3D profile for the Weistek
> with the start and end.gcode function. Then you export normally and uncheck
> the X3G box because using S3D without specifying a custom ini file for GPX
> will produce an incorrect X3G. That said, simply export the gcode and open
> that gcode in the Weistek version of Rep-G. Then export to SD card.

FWIW, I run S3D with custom GPX profiles all the time (as in 100% of the time).
You uncheck the box to automatically run GPX and then you just put in the
necessary shell commands to run GPX as you wish to but with a custom gpx.ini
file. (I posted a while back in the S3D forums how to do this plus how to
work around a GPX bug on OS X.)

Dan

[Jetguy]

Thanks, I know it can be done, I just try to baby step it first.

Get a profile working and then do the final step of producing the X3G.

That way you can troubleshoot where it went wrong and then produce a finely tuned profile that is fully automated to X3G.

[Jetguy]

OK, so here is some VERY important info as a backup and help other folks who want to try alternate software and potentially firmware.

The stock firmware reported as 7.2 (most likely derived from MakerBot firmware).

As I noted earlier, the Weistek does not use the more common 0.84A motors, they do use 0.4A high inductance motors. As such, the Vref is VERY much different than our standard settings. It's imperative not send the machine gcode from a Replicator containing the Vref write commands built into start.gcode.  Weistek stock software profiles ALSO do not use the onboard homing offsets, they use older G92 commands written into the start.gcode. I think it's still possible to use offsets and that might make life easier -YMMV.

[Jetguy]

Note, this is not 100% perfect but here is a Makerware Desktop config file. Simply save your current ReplicatorSingle.json to a backup folder and replace with this one.

Note, the default front edge prime slams into the right side of X axis but the print still prints centered. I'd love to get rid of that but other than being annoying, it doesn't hurt anything.

[Jetguy]

Important note about that file. The Weistek works like the old Thing-O-Matics in that Z axis homes max and the start.gcode then contains an Z distance you must calibrate for your machine. In Makerware, the start.gcode is in the json config file.

As such, that file is set for 145mm which is perfect on mine if you do not use the perfbaord and put blue tape on the aluminum build plate and level it at that distance.

In the jason, is the Z value

"start_position" : {

"replicator_start_position": [

"G92 X-75 Y-75 Z145 A0 B0",

You have to stop and restart the service for that change to take effect.

Factory default assuming using the perfboard is:

Z143.12

[Ayuready]

Hi Jetguy,

Thanks for all the effort!

Have u printed using makerware?

I am still awaiting shipment hehe so exicted

[Jetguy]

Yes, prints are amazing just using the bog standard profile.

Like I said, minor annoyance is the initial purge that unfortunately runs the head too far right but prints are still centered so in the end, just ignore it.

If it was a setting I could fix, I would but it's just one of those things to live with.

S3D profile won't have this problem, it's just a thing unique to Makerware.

[Joseph Chiu]

Would a ToM profile work better here?

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[Jetguy]

Problem is, how to make makerware use a T-O-M purge on a NON-T-O-M machine.

 

If you can figure out the total disaster that they have created that is built into these profiles, best of luck. Again, this was created using Makerware Desktop which I don't remember even seeing supports the T-O-M.

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[Jetguy]

Again, for the record, I have yet to ever get Makerwre to work my my standards with the T-O-M, let alone making it work correctly with a different hacked in machine.

I basically gave up hope. Maybe it works for someone else.

[Ayuready]

Hi jet guy,

Thanks a lot for the update. When u said the purge line move too far right does it mean the extruder will move too right and bang creating the usual Tak Tak Tak sound?

Which profile do u use it with? So cool that a weistek can use makerware!

[Jetguy]

Yes, on all counts. Yes, it moves the extruder right until it skips steps AKA tak tak tak.  Was that not obvious from all of my previous statements? I'm not sure how else I can explain that better.

I was using Makerware DESKTOP but using the last version of Makerware (non-desktop) would be the same.

Machine type profile should be obvious, the name of the file you replaced is REPLICATOR SINGLE.

Understand that when you choose a machine type, that in turn drives 99.99% of the menus in Makerware.

You CANNOT CHANGE THE NAME of a machine type (yet another joy of Makerware, hence why it's NOT named Weistek 150), so we had to use an existing, but less commonly used machine type and Replicator Single.

Again, step 1 with ANY machine is choose the correct machine type, then after that, the menus are driven by that primary choice.

As such, you would then only see profiles relevant to the machine type from that point on. The machine type is what determines what start.gcode is typically included and that's what makes this work.

[Dan Newman]

On 27/09/2014, 9:16 PM, Jetguy wrote:
> Yes, on all counts. Yes, it moves the extruder right until it skips steps
> AKA tak tak tak. Was that not obvious from all of my previous statements?
> I'm not sure how else I can explain that better.
>
>
> I was using Makerware DESKTOP but using the last version of Makerware
> (non-desktop) would be the same.
> Machine type profile should be obvious, the name of the file you replaced
> is REPLICATOR SINGLE.
>
> Understand that when you choose a machine type, that in turn drives 99.99%
> of the menus in Makerware.
> You CANNOT CHANGE THE NAME of a machine type (yet another joy of Makerware,
> hence why it's NOT named Weistek 150), so we had to use an existing, but
> less commonly used machine type and Replicator Single.

Actually, you can introduce a new machine type with it's own file and
name. It will show up as "bot" under "Type of MakerBot". HOWEVER, you
cannot connect to it from USB. You can only export X3G for it.
So, if you want to be able to connect over USB you have to usurp
one of the existing bot types as Jetguy has done. And usurping
"Replicator Single" is a bit of a no-brainer. Other than Dave
at EEVBlog, I don't know that anyone else in the world ordered
a Rep 1 SINGLE from MBI.

Dan

[Ayuready]

Thank you to Jetguy and Dan for the added explanation.

No fault on your explanation part, just that i am not so good at the standard terms used.

cheers!

[Ayuready]

Hi jetguy, did u manage to do The custom gpx conversion so that this little workshorse can be slice and converted directly using s3d?

Seems like beside here there no community for this brand of printer at all :(

[Ayuready]

Printer arrived!

Vert solid construction. If it falls on to your leg, it will break your leg. Haha

Having issue installing on my win7... Driver and signature issue. Will update again.

[Christopher]

Hope you don't mind bringing this topic back up. 

I got a Weistek Ideawerk Printer and have managed to use Makerware as the slicer thanks to Jetguy's Profile.

It works really well even though I think that the firmware and software of the printer is the bottleneck. 

Now I would like to use Simplify3D with the Weistek printer but I'm having problems setting it up as I have no actual knowledge of g-code yet. 

Therefore I wanted to ask if you mind sharing your simplify3d weistek machine profile and the custom gpx file? 

Thanks :) 

[Jetguy]

I haven't done this, and my Weistek is loaned to the local school so I'm unable to test.

I can attempt to make a FFF and an INI but no guarantees it works.

[Christopher]

If it isn't too much of an effort for you a starting point would be great :)

[Christopher]

Thanks to Dan and Jetguy I was able to create a Simplify3d profile for the Weistek Ideawerk 150 for anyone who wants to use another slicer then RepG or Makerware. Please make sure that you level your printer to 144 mm when using my profile otherwise you may run into your nozzle. You can change it in the profile though. Will be working on a Cura profil, just don't have access to the printer right now.

I'm using this gpx terminal command: %gpx -rvp -c %weistek-150.ini %example.gcode

[John Doe]

Can someone please show sample prints from this WT 150? Does anyone now what is the difference between WT150 and WT200 and WT280 (this one supports many filaments)? I'm thinking about buying one since it's very cheap , $400.

[James Armstrong]

You small workhorse just got larger:

http://3dprint.com/35671/weistek-e-master-3d-printer/

[Navzptc]

Christopher,

I have just purchased S3D after seeing you had kindly written the .fff and .ini files for the Weistek, but to be honest I am at a loss on where to use the .ini file.

I have managed to load in the .fff file, but am reluctant to try and use the program as I feel the .ini file is also required - a search for any .ini file has not come up with anything in the program folder.

Any assistance, direction etc. which you can provide to get S3D working fully would be much appreciated.

Regards,

Andy

[Jetguy]

It's mightyboard based controller meaning the firmware ONLY can read an X3G not gcode directly. The converter that does that is GPX by whpthomas. 

Simplify 3D uses GPX for all MkaerBot printers and clones to do the X3G conversion  except that on the profile settings, instead of checking the box you have to SPECIFY a script that points to that ini file.

AND, that works best if that ini file is in the Simplify 3D program folder where GPX is.

So yes, don't try to print without this as you'll not get very far. 

[Jetguy]

Dan covers it here. http://www.forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1071

So, just as i  said:

Step 1 put the ini file in the same location as the gpx.exe (search for gpx.exe and right click to get "open file location" on windows)

Step 2 edit the profile settings and on the scripts tab, ensure you uncheck create X3G and put the correct script in the box.

Again, Dan spells it out for you.

a. go to the Scripts tab
b. uncheck "Create x3g file for MakerBot printers using GPX plugin"
c. In the "Additional terminal commands for post processing" put in this command

/Applications/Simplify3D-2-0-1/gpx -p [output_filepath]

d. Replace "Applications/Simplify3D-2-0-1/" with the actual directory path to your gpx executable. "[output_filepath]" is literally that string.

[Navzptc]

Jetguy,

 VMT for your assistance with getting S3D working with my WT150, and hopefully with the information you have provided I will be able to move forward.

One problem I still have to work around is to get the printer talking to any other program apart from the 2 that Weistek produce for it - I have tried all combinations of speed settings and it just will not talk!

Any ideas?

Regards,

Andy

[Navzptc]

Now talking OK with the printer :)

Set 'flow control' to 'on' after seeing someone else with a similar problem in S3D forums!

[Jetguy]

It will not talk to any program and whatever you do, stop trying before you really, really mess up.

It's a mightyboard running a highly modified MakerBot based X3G firmware. This is why only Makerware and Replicator-G can talk to it because they properly communicate over S3G/X3G binary protocol.

If you connect using the wrong profile with Replicator-G, you could overwrite the axis limits and steps per mm and really mess it up.

If I can give you any advice today, DO NOT plug in USB. Print only from SD card ever.

[Jetguy]

Again, there is no backup firmware anywhere.

No known backup off eeprom settings.

It is imperative that you do not connect over USB to anything that might write to eeprom (AKA onboard preferences) in Rep-G.

Basically, if you inadvertently choose the wrong profile in Rep-G or use the wrong rep-g, or some other tool like Makerware and edit onboard preferences it might be hard or impossible to get back to a working state.

So again, for your own safety, do not ever plug this in USB.

[Navzptc]

Jetguy,

OK, all understood and no way was I going to play with the firmware settings, just wanted to see if I could get bed moving etc.

Now have it writing x3g code to chosen folder - will give it try later.

Thanks again.

Andy

On Sunday, 8 February 2015 01:09:52 UTC, Jetguy wrote:

Again, there is no backup firmware anaywhere.

No known backup off eeprom settings.

It is imperative that you do not connect over USB to anything that might write to eeprom (AKA onboard preferences) in Rep-G.

Basically, if you inadvertently choose the wrong profile in Rep-G or use the wrong rep-g, or some other tool like Makerware and edit onboard preferences it might be hard or impossible to get back to a working state.

So again, for your own safety, do not ever plug this in USB.

[Jetguy]

I get that you are not going to play with firmware settings- not intentionally.

My point to the larger group is there are some automatic things that happen in certain software the instant you connect to the printer over USB EVEN if you do nothing other than connect.

So, you either really, really, really, know all the rules and understand everything about that

Or

You smartly avoid the risk and do not ever plug it in USB.

Again,  something as simple as say using Replicator-G 40 from the public web repository and connecting using a default profile of anything OTHER than a Weistek (pmachine type which does not exist), can and will instantly write values to the steps per mm and axis lengths. SInce replicator-g also defaults to auto connect on startup= INSTANTLY screwing yourself royally.

Again, as simple as having the printer plugged in USB and starting the wrong version of software= instant disaster without even clicking a mouse.

[John Gelnaw]

On Saturday, February 7, 2015 at 10:45:21 PM UTC-5, Jetguy wrote:

I get that you are not going to play with firmware settings- not intentionally.

My point to the larger group is there are some automatic things that happen in certain software the instant you connect to the printer over USB EVEN if you do nothing other than connect.

So, you either really, really, really, know all the rules and understand everything about that

Or

You smartly avoid the risk and do not ever plug it in USB.

Again,  something as simple as say using Replicator-G 40 from the public web repository and connecting using a default profile of anything OTHER than a Weistek (pmachine type which does not exist), can and will instantly write values to the steps per mm and axis lengths. SInce replicator-g also defaults to auto connect on startup= INSTANTLY screwing yourself royally.

Again, as simple as having the printer plugged in USB and starting the wrong version of software= instant disaster without even clicking a mouse.

Wow-- Software that automatically changes parameters on an unknown device without any prompting, without doing any sort of verification.

That's really, really, bad software. 

I'll make make a note to avoid this software.

[Gail]

Hi,

Thanks a lot for this interresting thread.

By curiosity I'll give a try on a friend version of S3D with my Wt150.

But unfortunatly, i cannot get the x3g version of the gcode and I dont understand what is missing.

My path to gpx.exe look like :

C:/program files/simplify3d2-1-0/gpx -p "[output files]"

But nothing appen.

The quotes " are added as Dan mention it for this version of S3d.

WT150 ini file is in S3d directory.

Any idea ?

Thanks.

[Navzptc]

Gail,

FIRST of all a BIG Thank You to Christopher for writing the setup files, and to Jetguy for steering me through this maze of setting up :)

I have now printed 4 objects which have come out superb, and the difference in creating the gcode/x3g files between S3D and the provided programs is like chalk and cheese - well impressed with S3D!

Gail, like you, I was pulling my hair out, and finding the setup rules not working to provide the required files, but after looking around I have found the answer :)

Create a new folder in root of 'C drive' - I have named mine C:\S3DGPX (Found this info on one of the forums, can't remember which - But Thank you to the person providing this info!).

Copy across to this folder the GPX.exe program (from S3D folder), the Weistek_WT150.fff file and Weistek-150.ini file from Christopher in this thread.

Rename the Weistek-150.ini file to gpx.ini in the newly created S3DGPX folder.

In the FFF settings page in S3D add the Weistek.fff profile, and in the terminal box for post processing add:- c:\S3DGPX\gpx -prv "[output_filepath]"

Don't forget to adjust your Z height in the Weistek_WT150.fff file to your own Z height (lines 117 & 120) from Christophers value (144mm) - Mines 119.60 due to my heated bed I made.

Try a print, and then start changing the values to suit :)

Hope you enjoy the prints, like I am with S3D.

Regards,

Andy

[Gail]

Hi Andy,

Thanks a lot for helping. I deeply agree with all thanks you give around, that really makes everyone move forward.

My friend and I were tearing our hair out searching about this damned gpx post processing instruction...
Now it works great. Now conviced by S3D, I'm on the way to get my own copy.

Anoter question about heating bed, is your machine a WT280A ?, also called ideawerk Plus, or have you adapted your wt150. In this last case I would be very interrested by any details about how you manage it.

Again, thank you very much for taking time to answer,

Best regards,

Gail

[Kurt @ VR-FX]

Hello there Gail,

I see that you are new to this Forum - and I wanted to say Welcome to the group. Its refreshing to find some females joining the group - considering most technical forums are just too over-run w/Guys!

And - I hope you won't  get too offended by some of the postings and replies. People here tend to post and speak their minds. Many actually bust on me because of a Single project I had printed, Way back - for a couple women here in the NYC area. And, some folks here use any excuse to try and bring it up. Some had pushed me to make a new derivation of one of my other projects - the project I am truly known for - my Dragon - and take part of that design and apply it. Which, in the end - I did do - and posted here. But, maybe I shouldn't have - since now I am also known too much for that. However, I don't mind - its all in fun - and that's what's important.

FYI - so you know what I look like - as well as what my Big Dragon looks like (as well as for any other Newbies in the group) - this is Me & My Dragon:

Anyway - Gail - I hope you enjoy your time here in this forum - and I am SURE you will get a lot of great insights. And, if you don't mind reading Really Technical and Extensive write-ups, I'm sure you will get a kick out of some of the posts by JetGuy!

Regards,
Kurt

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[3duser]

Interesting on the Weistek site where it says the Plus extruder can go to 280 C.

[Navzptc]

Hi Gail,

Yes, it is a homebrew heated bed - Mk 1, I already have plans afoot for the Mk 2 version!!

I will have a bit more time later tonight to post more info on how I have done it, and my idea for the next version!!!

Glad to hear you have got S3D working now - works great doesn't it :)

To vrfx, nice Dragon - goes to show what you can do with some imagination with these printers.

Andy

[Kurt @ VR-FX]

Hey there Andy!

Thanks So Much for your comment. Yes, its quite true. What some may find
more interesting - is the Original dragon was completely done on an MBI
CupCake - an Original and Unmodified CupCake. And - FYI - NO Supports
involved (or animals hurt! :-) - sorry, couldn't resist). I designed
it - and cut it up into MANY Pieces - over 250. Even the legs - main leg
parts - where cut into 3 pieces - in order to not need supports. And -
sure - it was a PITA to assemble part of it. And, a true "labor of love"
- since it was Literally Hundreds of printing hours - and probably a
couple hundred hours to design, start & remove print jobs, assembly, and
finishing. When I got accepted into World Maker Faire 2012 - I wanted to
show something at the Faire that was Different. Something that could
Prove pushing the limits via 3D Printing. To me - it was about making
something big - but, from Many parts. And that's Exactly why I produced
the Dragon. Its about 4.5 feet from tip of tongue to tip of tail - or a
little over 6 feet if you go along the curve of the Body.

-K-

[Gail]

Thank vrfx for your friendly welcome and congrat for your realisation !

Today I've learn two things : how to make S3D works well on a WT150 and that my pseudo makes me look as a female ! I'm not english natives and not aware about it ! Just a french word play.

For Andy : cant wait about details and maybe tricks to do same as you. Is your heated bed connected to motherboard ? Have you tried higher temp with you extruder ? Do you print ABS successfuly ? Or nylon or other kind of filament that needs high temperature ?

Thank in advance for giving more details and maybe picture if you agree to.

Best regards,

[Kurt @ VR-FX]

Ouch - Seems you REALLY Stumped me!

Yes - in the English speaking realm of folks - Gail is typically a
female name. I was reading your posts - and had assumed by your writing
that you were a native English speaker. But, after you comment below - I
re-read one of your posts - and, I do now see how I may have missed that
you are not a true native English speaker - considering some of your
wording. So - seem you got me.

So - U R French - and a Guy???

Come on - cough up the truth - its OK - no need to hide from us little
guys...

:-)
-K-

[Navzptc]

Gail,

Here you go - pictures of the bed plate, temperature controller (from the 'Bay) and as fitted on my printer.

I used 4 x 25W 2.2 ohm resistors for the heating element (2 sets of 2 resistors connected in parallel, with each set then wired in series) which are connected to my PSU which gives about 86 Watts out.

Resistors are mounted with thermal epoxy to the 5mm Aluminium plate, and thermistor for the temperature controller is mounted in the middle of the plate.

4mm glass plate mounts on top of the Aluminium plate.

I am waiting for a 10cm square silicon heat pad to arrive from China, which I will use with a 3mm plate instead of the above which will be thinner and lighter - MK 2 version.

I just use PLA which I run normally at 210 C with bed plate at 60 C.

Hope this helps,

Andy

[Kurt @ VR-FX]

Andy - Such a Hefty looking and Fancy HBP - and yet you are only printing PLA? Seems almost overkill. Although, with your setup - sounds like it would be a Fast heat up for going up to temps for ABS. So - its Four Resistors under the aluminum plate? And the heat spreads well enough? Just curious...

-K-

[Navzptc]

vrfx,

To be honest I have had no urge to try ABS, as happy with the PLA I am using.

Main priority was to get S3D working and being able to print direct onto glass and get rid of those raft lines etc. you get on items.

Will maybe try ABS some time in the future.

Yes, the plate heats up quickly and evenly (resistors were placed to have the same area to heat) and controller does a good job of temperature control.

The silicon pad which is winging its way here looks very thin, but handles 100W at 12v, so I should be able to slim things down when that arrives.

Andy

[Gail]

Andy,

Thanks a lot for sharing, very interesting achievement.

For your MK2 version I think that your are trying this heater : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/4-X4-100W-12V-KEENOVO-Universal-Silicone-Heater-Pad-w-Thermostat-of-80-Deg-C-/281462979400?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4188803b48

With thermostat integrated it could only reach 80 D°C

Do you consider this one, but with maybe more complex control system : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/150X150mm-500W-220V-3M-PSA-K-Type-TC-Steel-Sleeve-Keenovo-Silicone-Heater-Pad-/281307209680?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417f375fd0

They are also the Printrbot heated bed that fit to WT150 : http://printrbot.com/shop/simple-metal-heated-bed-white/

And some instructions to install it : https://www.youmagine.com/designs/printrbot-simple-metal-heatbed

Regards,
Gail

[Navzptc]

Gail,

Yes, that's the pad I'm going to be using, but I am replacing the thermistor with one of my own - I contacted the manufacturer and my thermistor is the same body shape as the ones they use so an easy job to swap.

As it develops 100W it should easily be able to achieve the temperatures which my version obtains at the moment, but will give me more Z movement as it will be a slimmer build.

I will let you know how I get on when I receive it.

Andy

[Gail]

Andy,

Fine.
Do you now if there is any opportunities to connect and drive it thru WT150 motherboard with gcode ?

Your are also talking about changing the thermistor but in this product, I understand that a thermostat is driving the heat on that pad ? Could you be more explicit ? Maybe your are using external controller for driving temperature ?



Gail

[Navzptc]

Gail,

No chance to use the board as components are missing, but the board was made with that capability if those components were fitted :(

As I said in my earlier post, I am using that external temperature controller for the bed which takes its information from the thermistor mounted underneath (I will be changing the pad one to a different value) - It then just supplies power, or turns off as required.

Andy

On Monday, 9 February 2015 11:14:27 UTC, Gail wrote:

Andy,

Fine.
Do you now if there is any opportunities to connect and drive it thru WT150 motherboard with gcode ?

Your are also talking about changing the thermistor but in this product, I understand that a thermostat is driving the heat on that pad ? Could you be more explicit ? Maybe your are using external controller for driving temperature ?

Gail

Le lundi 9 février 2015 10:40:05 UTC+1, Navzptc a écrit :

[Navzptc]

Revised Heated Bed Plate - Mk 2

Well the silicon heater pad arrived from China the other day, and I have made up the Mk 2 heated bed plate. and very pleased with it - It weighs 150 gm less than the old resistor version and heats up a lot quicker (8A draw compared to 6); also it is a lot thinner.

Constructed using a 4mm glass plate, 3mm aluminium plate with 5mm standoffs - Thermistor was thermal epoxied to the aluminium plate where the cables exit which seems to work well.

Andy

[Gail]

Hi Andy,

Good job indeed !

So it seems that the reduced size of the heater is enough to heat the full plate. I've you tried higher temp like more than 100° ?
I'm very curious about your wiring on this silicon heater.

On my side I'm looking on this item to get the same result : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/CoolCube-New-1pc-Makerbot-3d-Printer-Kit-PCB-Heated-Bed-Hot-Bed-120-120mm-12V-/161568734274?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item259e3f3c42

I would like to drive it thru a Ramps board. At this time it's only an idea.

Regards,
Gail

Le dimanche 15 février 2015 03:20:57 UTC+1, Navzptc a écrit :

Revised Heated Bed Plate - Mk 2

Well the silicon heater pad arrived from China the other day, and I have made up the Mk 2 heated bed plate. and very pleased with it - It weighs 150 gm less than the old resistor version and heats up a lot quicker (8A draw compared to 5); also it is a lot thinner.

[Navzptc]

Gail,

The wiring is simple on my layout - Power for the heater pad is switched via a relay in my controller, which gets its information from the thermistor mounted on the heated platform.

Be interested on how you get on with your idea - Might try the higher temperature some time to see what it gets up to :)

Andy

[Dabba Doo]

Hi guys,

any news about the Cura profile, respectively any hints how to configure Cura for the WT150?

Many thanks

[Jetguy]

Being it's an X3G based printer and firmware, your best bet is to study exhaustively the configuration for the Replicator-G machine.xml config and probably either create a custom profile based on that for GPX or import gcode into the supported version of Rep-G and export from there.

Given there is no firmware updates, this is a custom variant, you CANNOT LOAD SAILFISH, and heaven forbid you connect and jack up the parameters in the printer, attaching any other software over USB should be avoided. You can seriously brick this thing (as it it won't print correctly) should you mess up the internal eeprom space.

[Dabba Doo]

Thanks, I already got that from the previous posts.
My WT150 arrived yesterday (special price, 333€), and I think it is an excellent option for that price.
Setting it up was a little bit difficult, but only because the manual isn't very helpful. Once set up and adjusted, it ran just fine.

There's not much in the machine.xml, just basic parameters and switches. I suspect that Weistek has done a lot of modifications in the Replicator-G code itself, and therefore a vanilla version of it won't play that well with this printer. But I'll give it a try.
For now, it runs very well as it is.
Maybe I'll dump the E²PROM contents when I'm in the mood, and do some experiments with the firmware later.

[Dan Newman]

> Maybe I'll dump the E²PROM contents when I'm in the mood, and do some
> experiments with the firmware later.

Be careful with avrdude 5.10: for quite a while with 5.10 it incorrectly
dumped EEPROM from ATmegas.

I've read that the firmware is a fork of the Jetty Firmware; i.e., Sailfish 3.x.
If so, then I suspect the Weistek RepG variant is doing RPM-based gcode. (Jetty Firmware
3.5 supports Vol 5D and RPM gcodes, but there were a number of bugs in RepG back
then as regards Vol 5D. MBI never fixed them but we fixed them in the Sailfish
variant of RepG 40. It's anyones guess what Weistek has done.)

Dan

[Jetguy]

Being I got it to print with Makerware- I'm going with no major changes here.

It's running NORMAL 5D gcode-transcoded to X3G per normal X3G based printers.

The trick is it is CUSTOM firmware and as such, it does use homing offsets, it doesn't use M132 recall homing offsets, you cannot just flash sailfish ore else you'll break the touchscreen interface and probably SD card operations as well. 

But again, getting it work with other slicers is a know, and there is no reason to change the firmware, and certainly, dumping the eeprom gets you nowhere, I already have dumps of the stock firmware.

[Jetguy]

Also note, the stepper drivers are ALL 0.4A so don't monkey around with the digipots either or else you'll instantly set into stepper clipping. Given the motor coils self regulate @ 12V and the source is 12V- they are nearly or are clipping now. 

[Dabba Doo]

As I'm pretty new to 3D printing, I don't fully get it.
What exactly do I have to do to get it running with makerware?
Respectively, my main goal ist having a working toolchain for Linux (meaning, everything from Freecad to printout).

[Jetguy]

Given you are new- leave it the heck alone and use the supplied customized version of Rep-G.

Playing with Makerware and custom machine configs is probably only to get you in trouble. Same with the whole eeprom thing- leave it alone.

Again, if you don't know, you aren't an expert, you aren't familiar with the tool chains it's  learning curve.

Again, you are playing with fire here. You want to run Linux- except there is no official Linux software for this machine. Right there, in and of itself- you are digging a hole.

In a nutshell you need to get this really quickly

Gcode is human readable lines of commands to move the printer

X3G is an encoded version of gcode using the steps per mm and other values found in the machinename.xml file in the machines folder of Rep-g (HINT, it's specific to this machine and ONLY found in the special version of rep-g they provide) That XML is what give you the list of machine types in Rep-g. BUT THIS IS NOT SLICING. This is basics of command and control

Rep-G uses a separate application to actually slice an STL into gcode. That is Skeinforge AKA SF50 (50 is the version). That application has it's own folder and profiles and configs. (we just call them profiles. A KEY aspect of any printer is the start and end gcode files that are appended to the actual print gcode for the machine type. The start gcode contains all the commands to home and setup the coordinate system, turn on the heaters and basically prep the machine for the print to start. End gcode is opposite and safely ends the print, loweres the bed, cools the nozzles and shuts everything down. It MUST match the start.gcode so that everything ends in a safe state.

Just like Rep-G, Makerware has a configuration file that is machine specific.  Due to the fact Makerware is meant to support Makerbot printers, it is not as flexible or configurable. Basically I've figures out what you can change and what you CANNOT change. Makerware config files are *.json files. the machine type one is in the S3G/profiles folder and again the format is machinename.json.

I posted a sample config in this thread earlier.

Unlike Rep-G, the machine config file here also contains the start.gcode.

NOW FOR THE KICKER TO PAY ATTENTION TO!!!

The Weistek homes Z MAX. In order to set first layer height, they are editing the start.gcode to set the Z gap!!! This is different than any other printer and is a throwback from very early MakerBot Thing-O-Matic Z calibration days. As such, on my printer, I removed the stupid perfboard build plate and apply masking tape directly on the aluminum build surface. This in turn gives you the MAX build height and you use the leveling screws to fine adjust the final Z gap.

[Dabba Doo]

Thanks for the explanation.
But I should have been more specific. I'm not a Noob, in fact I'm an engineer of electronics, I know how G-code works, I can program microcontrollers, I've designed stepper motor controls before, it's just that I'm new to 3D printing and its special vocabulary.
I'm aware that playing with other software means asking for trouble, but I like to play around.

BTW: As the WT150's extruder seems to be all metal, do you think it could be used at higher temperatures to print other materials?
As the firmware doesn't support it, some hacks to trick the temperature sensor would be needed, but that's nothing I haven't done before.

I already saw that Weistek is using Skeinforce. Is it a recommendable slicer? It seems to be incredibly slow.

And an additional question: Can I control the fan somehow?
For some special filaments it's recommended to print the first layers without fan.

We really should start a Weistek wiki (or is there already one?).
If not, I'd be happy to start one, if you guys are willing to share your wisdom.

And thanks for sharing the experience of printing directly to the
build plate. What sort of tape do you use? Additional glue stick or hairspray?
Do you have to clean the plate afterwards?
Do you use a print base, or does it work without?

Thanks in advance.

[Jetguy]

Yes, the extruder is all metal

No need to trick anything. You simply set the temp in gcode. What makes you think the firmware didn't support higher temps? (unfortunately, I don't have mine in front of me to test what the max temp is)

No the fan MUST RUN anytime the extruder is over 50C. It is cooling the cold end of the extruder. DO NOT WORRY ABOU FIRST LAYER.

Skienforge is slow as a slicer and that's why I did a quick makerware config as a proof of concept. With that, there are unsolvable errors. For example, Makerware attempts a wipe that exceeds the x axis limits, No big deal, it just skips steps and makes a lot of noise but it still printed centered after the wipe.

Build plate:

Again, I use blue painter tape from Lowes. No Hairspray or anything else. the MAIN reason is the pain the neck manual offset that is in the start.gcode. Using the bare bed, they sized the machine exactly 145mm as I remember. So, no upper surface other than tape and the leveling screws provide all the fine adjustment you need. Otherwise, if you add glass or other surface- you MUST compensate and subtract that thickness from the line in the start.gcode. Their tool and calibration thing does that in their slicer- but hint- it's not persistent across sessions!!! So my "trick" that I figured out they designed the machine to print on the aluminum is the best way bar none.

NO base print- assumed you meant raft.

Here is my advice.

Use the supplied software- get familiar with the machine, the quirks I listed, and understand how it all works. THEN after you get good- then go on your quest for alternate slicers and so forth.

[RGr]

Am Samstag, 9. Mai 2015 10:57:26 UTC+2 schrieb Dabba Doo:

...

I'm aware that playing with other software means asking for trouble, but I like to play around.

...

Dear all,

I also got my WT150 this weekend, and after two successful prints I started to look at the ReplicatorG options
a bit closer and thought that updating the firmware might be a good idea (obviously, before finding this group...).

As Weistek doesn´t really provide a lot of documentation (eg., I couldn´t find anything about firmware upgrades)
but DID provide this RepG software with the Firmware upgrade option, I´m afraid that a quite a few new users
might fall into this trap.

Anyhow, any idea on how I could get the printer to work again?
I tried to downgrade the firmware again to 7.2, but it seems that this is the generic Makerbot version,
ie. not the modified Weistek firmware....

Thanks so much for your help!

[lassi_kinnunen]

a) try to reflash original firmware if you can get a dump from some other owner.

b) if you bought it in the usa or euro, and you just used replicatorg as provided and pressed update fw from there....

......contact your seller. they're on the hook for design defects and if they provide a sw to be used with it that bricks the machine if you press update then sure, they're on the hook for providing a solution.

[Dabba Doo]

As soon as I find the time, I'll try to read out the original firmware.

I have an Atmel AVR JTAGICE mkII, so this shouldn't be a problem.

Did anybody notice that RS is now selling this printer under their own brand?
http://de.rs-online.com/web/p/3d-drucker/8286356/
736€

Conrad sells them for 333€:
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/1058487/3D-Drucker-Weistek-WT-IdeaWerk-3D-Printer-WT150?ref=searchDetail

BTW: I tried blue painters tape, but with little success. May it be that the local brand (Tesa) doesn't work, or that my PLA is the problem, but nothing worked.
Neither plain tape, nor rubbing it with alcohol nor glue stick. I tried all distances from practically zero to 0.4mm.
I've ordered a Buildtak plate, let's see how this works out.

Regarding calibration:
Is it right that the calibration is only in start.gcode, and that the Weistek calibration utility just writes this file?
What about ReplicatorG's control panel? Can I also use this for calibration instead? I tried the 'Center X' button once, and it instantly drove the extruder to the the right, stressing the belt. I guess that the WT150's coordinate system is different from that of the replicator?

Thanks for your patience.

[Jetguy]

Yes, everything I wrote is true. Why else would I write it?

Yes, the coordinate system is the OLD style like the T-O-M.

G92 not M132

G92 says I am here

M132 says read back stored eeprom and then say I am here.

This firmware doesn't support M132.

You home so that the printer is at a KNOWN physical position

You know what that position is in the coordinate system (AKA homing offsets)

You write the LOGICAL position to memory (not EEPROM) using G92 Xoffset Yoffset Zoffset

Now the printer is homed and has a proper coordinate system

This printer homes Z MAX not Z MIN. This is why there is a positive Z axis homing offset unlike printers that home Z min (AKA the Replicator).

NO you cannot use Replicator calibration scripts.

Yes, the utility is changing the start.gcode G92 Z offset

[Dabba Doo]

Thanks for the clarification.

What about x and Y? Where exactly is zero here? At the lower left edge of the print bed?

And how would I write a start.gcode for Cura?
I'd really like to use Cura.Skeinforce need ages to slice more complex models, and often runs out of memory. Cura seems to do a much better job here.
 

[Jetguy]

Not arguing that SF is slow.

The coordinate system is NORMAL Makerbot style with 0 centered in the middle of the bed and using positive and negative values.

Hence why the start.gcode is so important and understanding how G92 command "sets up" the coordinate system AFTER homing to a known physical location

G92 literally marries up the PHYSICAL position with the LOGICAL coordinate.

#1 the start.gcode is clearly visible to get to inside of the supplied replicator-g (edit profile- LOCATE= folder where code is stored)

USE THAT CODE

#2 understanding that the machine DOES NOT USE GCODE DIRECTLY, means somehow, some way, you need to convert to X3G and also know- that conversion MUST use the steps per mm and other details found in the machine.xml file of the same supplied Rep-G

Usage:

After you edit and get the correct start.gcode and end code- and your coordinate system is right- you MUST convert to X3G

You can:

Simply open the created gcode from whatever slicer you choose and use it to export

OR

Properly configure a GPX ini file and use GPX for the conversion.

Again, everything, and I do mean everything, is in the supplied Replicator-G. It's probably easier for you to at least test using Rep_G to do the final conversion. This means no extra processes and thus potential for errors and troubleshooting. Once you get it working with Re-G doing X3G conversion- THEN and only then attempt GPX conversion integrating into Cura or whatever slicer you choose.

Given I no longer have a printer to test with- you are on your own here. I can point you where to look for the info- but ONLY YOU can actually enter and configure your software and then test to make sure it's right.

[Dabba Doo]

Ok, so Cura should be able to produce valid G code, if it is set to Makerbot flavor, and X/Y zero in the middle, assuming the coordinate system is set right in  startup.gcode.
What about the fan speed and temperature? Does the WT150 understand the Makerbot commands here?
Or do I have to set that also in the startup.gcode?

When I use GPX, can I send the data also directly to the printer over USB, or does it only work for offline printing?