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Just an idea to open your market... Amtrak station to station shipping is not terribly expensive, and the bot will not get tossed around much if you are going on a single route with continuous service.
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Jetguy will be getting the frame and heaterboard
Ya'll are making me want to build one now. Love my ToM. Have mixed feeling on my Rostock but will keep playing with it. I can help jetguy with yours if you decide to ship it to him.
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So some parts came today.
Does anyone know how I can make the aluminum shiney? Should I tap the holes or just drill if needed and put the bolts through?
Thanks
On May 26, 2013 8:19 PM, "Mark Cohen" <markc...@gmail.com> wrote:
Jetguy will be getting the frame and heaterboard
On May 26, 2013 7:45 PM, "James Armstrong" <armstro...@gmail.com> wrote:
Ya'll are making me want to build one now. Love my ToM. Have mixed feeling on my Rostock but will keep playing with it. I can help jetguy with yours if you decide to ship it to him.
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I think I am going to drill through and just buff the al a bit.
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I think I am going to drill through and just buff the al a bit.
On May 28, 2013 9:29 PM, "JohnA." <john....@gmail.com> wrote:
Polishing aluminum is easiest with a benchtop grinding wheel and progressively finer polishes - it's pretty easy on a big flat item like this, but when the edge catches it's a little dangerous.My holes are tapped for m3 and if you use m3x10 bolts, they are completely flush when screwed in - nothing sticks through the frame. I've seen others just bolted with nuts on the back.My HBP and pulleys showed up today - but I'm still waiting on belts / PSU / hot end / glass.JohnA.
On Tuesday, May 28, 2013 8:32:49 PM UTC-4, TheMakerGuy wrote:
So some parts came today.
Does anyone know how I can make the aluminum shiney? Should I tap the holes or just drill if needed and put the bolts through?
Thanks
On May 26, 2013 8:19 PM, "Mark Cohen" <markc...@gmail.com> wrote:
Jetguy will be getting the frame and heaterboard
On May 26, 2013 7:45 PM, "James Armstrong" <armstro...@gmail.com> wrote:
Ya'll are making me want to build one now. Love my ToM. Have mixed feeling on my Rostock but will keep playing with it. I can help jetguy with yours if you decide to ship it to him.
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Ebay
Search for prusa i3
There sb only one US source
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Ebay
Search for prusa i3
There sb only one US source
On May 29, 2013 3:28 PM, "James Armstrong" <armstro...@gmail.com> wrote:
What source did you use for the kit? I was trying to get the minimum parts such as aluminum and beams since I have a lot of the other parts.--
On Tuesday, May 28, 2013 8:32:49 PM UTC-4, TheMakerGuy wrote:So some parts came today.
Does anyone know how I can make the aluminum shiney? Should I tap the holes or just drill if needed and put the bolts through?
Thanks
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Is the extruder piece upside down?
I am going to drill through my metal as the m3 holes currently can accept an m3 bolt so that means they are to large to tap m3
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No braces
I think the y boltd on with a nut on each side
The wood ones have the brace
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Depending on your extruder their is a dainty back in the mini folder that goes along with the printed platform piece if you know the part i am talking about. It could be in the box frame folder. I am not home so I cant check it out
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Like JetGuy – I also appreciate you guys showing us your progress on building your new Bots. Its great to see W.I.P. stuff, different Bot designs – and also keep the Pics coming!
-K-
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Like JetGuy – I also appreciate you guys showing us your progress on building your new Bots. Its great to see W.I.P. stuff, different Bot designs – and also keep the Pics coming!
-K-
OK – JetGuy – that IS Funny!
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Oh alright.....
Someone wants to show me his laser-fu I think!
Your ultimaker parts are on the way now.
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It was too complicated for me to explain....
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Doing this for 4 years I have seen this come up once in a while. Many people like to use an even number because it just makes sense. But really less works out better to be less constraining. The two are there to drive and guide and it is 2 because you want it to be as long as the part. You want one at each end so it does not wobble. You want the single just to hold it in position and as such it gives an element of play that makes the whole thing moves smoother than having 2. If your part was narrower you might just want one bearing to drive and two round bearings to pinch it on the rods. This is also done on the heated bed.
As for two much play the trick was to put the bearings on the rods first and then zip tie them on to the parts so that everything was lined up nicely and tight. If you just reversed the part without rezip tying it wont be right I am thinking.
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He was my first choice but he didn't include the thermistor and I wanted 14 Guage wire not 16. I have 16 on hand.
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Oh I forgot the most important thing. The main reason people do this is that they can't get the rods perfectly alighned. They are always a small bit off and thats why you need a bit of play or they will bind.
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That worked out nice
I figured out my my wire problems I think
Works out the bowden tube slips up from the front where it connects to the head leaving an inch gap
The wires are ziptied to the bowden
So I guess it pulls on the wires
I cut off the zip ties now
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I help with the bukobot that is at the LA Makerspace. We recently had a problem where it went out of whack. . Turned out the two z steppers got turned out of sync (most likely by some unknowing person) causing prints to get way out of whack.
I don't think the z loading is too much when the machine is in normal operation, but my own experience is that if the z screwleads are accessible, it could potentially lead to the z being way off kilter.
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Good point on the constraint thing, James and I were talking about that and I said, I always like to put the constraint at the top (nuts or the pulleys on the top side of the top bearings) and less the mass (the X gantry) hang below. Now that you say this, with only 5mm diameter screws, it's even more important than the days when I used 8mm screws. That then brings up an interesting and new question as well.
The stock design then does it all wrong IMO. They use tubing as the coupler, which actually is a very good idea, but then that was the only connection to the threaded rod or constraint in most of the pictures I saw. They didn't specify using flanged bearings and the top bearings were just press in and hope is stays. This meant the threaded rods where in compression, the support was at the motors and through the tubing coupling. Even if during assembly you pushed the the threaded rod agaisnt the motor shaft, depending on the shape of the ends of the shaft and the threaded rod could attempt to push the rod out of being concentric. The devil is in the tiny details like this.
So basically, I have always though of the thread rod like a wire and always tried to keep it in tension rather than compression. So that means I actually disagree just a tiny bitm in that constraining both ends of the rod is OK, but its how you do it that matter. The constrating needs to be on the outside edges of the frame, so extreme top and bottom of the threaded rods.
Which then turns into the corrrect way to use these http://www.adafruit.com/products/1175 . You still want to ensure those are ONLY used in tension with the constraint at the far end of the rod (AKA the top in this case) and when tighten the stetscrew at the motor half, just barely pull down on the botom half of the coupler collar to put tension on the threaded rod when locked down.Consider this just Jetguy's thoughts on mechanics.
On Sunday, June 2, 2013 9:20:42 AM UTC-4, Joseph Chiu wrote:
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Hi,
Could you send me the file for the mount? The one on thingiverse isnt as cool as yours.
Also I am ordering a cubd extruder as jetguy is going to try and make me an aluminum angle iron adapter.
Thanks
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Re: Prusa i3 Extruder? January 21, 2013 11:57AM |
Registered: 5 months ago Posts: 6 |
I was talking about my ultimaker
I still have an extra steves extruder and hot end parts lying around
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Actually 30mm is from the center of each hole
Thanks!
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I didnt realize adafruit had the 5mm to 5mm spring couplers so I ordered from ebay in Hong Kong.
Oh well
I did buy by mistake 5mm to 8mm
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Oh i think I saw that mod on thingiverse but I did not see it in the joes git. Maybe I missed it
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