What to use for Taulman 618 Build Plate?

[fredini]

People printing Taulman 618- what are you using for a build plate?

Blue painters tape I am getting warpage/separation. Elmer's glue stiick on Blue tape?The Taulman site suggested garolite, but the garolite I bought from McMaster Carr is so badly warped that its unusable. 

[DonadJ]

Elmer's Glue stick on a heated glass bed worked for me using the Taulman Bridge filament, which is a nylon variant, I believe.

Worth a try...

[Adam]

I had good luck with the little bit of nylon printing I did using glass and hair spray asking with a brim. I don't have that much experience with it yet.

[TobyCWood]

618 does MAJOR shrinking! I got limited success printing on garolite. Most success I ever have is with a NYLON plate. Roughed up with sand paper and a thin layer of Aquanet. It sticks and holds... But without the thin layer of AQ it may not come off.

[Ryan Carlyle]

Bridge sticks to PVA glue, but 618 and 645 don't from what I've heard. Bridge is also about the same strength as ABS, so I question the value most of the time.

[Chris P]

My experience is the tensile strength of bridge is easily 10x that of ABS.  I've printed single-wall boxes that were impossible to break, and we had some big strong dudes at MRRF pulling on them for all they were worth last March.

[Ryan Carlyle]

Hmm. Someone connected to a supplier posted some actual test data a while back. Wish I could find the thread. Taulman never posts apples-to-apples numbers on their website. EG it's mostly raw filament specs, not printed part specs. I recall Bridge being about half the strength of the other two, but I could be mis-remembering.

Thing about "breaking" nylon is that it has a very low modulus but enormous elongation at break. So it's flexible. Flexing makes it a lot tougher because of better load distribution, even though the actual yield point is only ~2x higher than ABS. If your concern is how much load a printed part can take before it hits X deflection, ABS is comparable and PC is way better. But if your concern is outright failure strength, nylon is fantastic.

[jimc]

i believe on taulman's website they say the the strength of bridge is between the 645 and 618 so apparently a little stronger. 

[Steve Johnstone]

I'm printing nylon on G11 which works great.

[Fred Kahl]

G11? Not familiar with that. Where do you get it?

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[Jetguy]

McMaster Carr or some other industrial supply.

AKA Garolite

http://www.mcmaster.com/#garolite/=t3d9fp

 

 

On Friday, August 1, 2014 10:37:42 AM UTC-4, fredini wrote:

G11? Not familiar with that. Where do you get it?

On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 1:33 AM, Steve Johnstone <stevene...@gmail.com> wrote:

I'm printing nylon on G11 which works great.

On Thursday, 31 July 2014 20:30:58 UTC+1, fredini wrote:

People printing Taulman 618- what are you using for a build plate?

Blue painters tape I am getting warpage/separation. Elmer's glue stiick on Blue tape?The Taulman site suggested garolite, but the garolite I bought from McMaster Carr is so badly warped that its unusable. 

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[Jetguy]

Many folks are using either G10 on a unheated bed, or G11 on a heated bed.

 

G10 is the lower temp rated version.

 

High Temperature Garolite (G-11)

Suitable for continuous use in elevated temperatures, this fiberglass-based material retains at least 50% of its structural strength at temperatures above 300°F

[Fred Kahl]

Aha- I bought the machinable Garolite, which was badly warped.McMaster told me that all the stock is warped due to the manufacturing process. Any preference between G-10 and G-11?

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[Fred Kahl]

PS: What thickness?

[Ryan Carlyle]

Machinable Garolite uses a linen cloth material. G10/G11 uses fiberglass, which is about a billion times stiffer and stronger.

I'm using 1/8" (3mm) G10 and G11 from McMaster. Works great. Perfectly flat. 

On Friday, August 1, 2014 2:18:30 PM UTC-5, fredini wrote:

PS: What thickness?

On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 3:18 PM, Fred Kahl <fre...@gmail.com> wrote:

Aha- I bought the machinable Garolite, which was badly warped.McMaster told me that all the stock is warped due to the manufacturing process. Any preference between G-10 and G-11?

On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 2:31 PM, Jetguy <vernon...@gmail.com> wrote:

Many folks are using either G10 on a unheated bed, or G11 on a heated bed.

 

G10 is the lower temp rated version.

 

High Temperature Garolite (G-11)

Suitable for continuous use in elevated temperatures, this fiberglass-based material retains at least 50% of its structural strength at temperatures above 300°F

On Friday, August 1, 2014 2:28:23 PM UTC-4, Jetguy wrote:

McMaster Carr or some other industrial supply.

AKA Garolite

http://www.mcmaster.com/#garolite/=t3d9fp

 

 

On Friday, August 1, 2014 10:37:42 AM UTC-4, fredini wrote:

G11? Not familiar with that. Where do you get it?

On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 1:33 AM, Steve Johnstone <stevene...@gmail.com> wrote:

I'm printing nylon on G11 which works great.

On Thursday, 31 July 2014 20:30:58 UTC+1, fredini wrote:

People printing Taulman 618- what are you using for a build plate?

Blue painters tape I am getting warpage/separation. Elmer's glue stiick on Blue tape?The Taulman site suggested garolite, but the garolite I bought from McMaster Carr is so badly warped that its unusable. 

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[Fred Kahl]

Awesome- thanks! I have some G-10 on order!

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