PCTG Layer Adhesion

[Bryan Murphy]

I finally got my Canvas for the Centuari Carbon.  So far it works well:



The problem is the layers are splitting when I try to print with my roll of white PCTG:

The black and white rolls are both 3D-Fuel PCTG using the same settings. The black prints great but the white is really struggling with layer adhesion.  Any suggestions?  I already tried drying the filament (no improvement, as I expected).

Nozzle 260ºC

Bed 70ºC

Fan at about 50%

Thanks,
Bryan

[david merten]

I personally stay away from white filament of all types. They have caused me many issues that the other colors don't. Any defect is more noticeable especially burnt blobs. And it gets dirty easier. That's my rant.

It kind of looks like the the white needs higher heat IMO.

            David

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[Kurt]

I second the comments from David. The way White filament is colored - the chemical additives tend to make white filaments a bit more unstable - which is also what I saw at Essentium - and what folks there would tell me. 

I was thinking of going a bit hotter in the nozzle - even though I think that's the temp I have been printing the 3D Fuel Refuel filament - and it works fine. Maybe it's the part cooling fan that needs to be turned down. 

Also - have you tried reaching out to the folks at 3D Fuel? I would suggest sending them an email to get feedback! They REALLY DO Work to support their filament brands - and John the CEO is Really active on the Socials!

-K

[Bryan Murphy]

I haven't tried reaching out to them.  That's a good idea.  I'll try tuning the fan and temp first, those are easy enough to try and what I was thinking of doing anyway.

I'll report back with my results.  I'm incentivized to get the white PCTG printing cleanly so I can wrap up that boat vent project I mentioned in a different thread.

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[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Bryan - I forgot to say...

I'm jealous of you - as I have NOT gotten MY Canvas yet!!! Ugh...

Once I do - now I can do SERIOUS Print Tests - for Timing and Waste - Battling my U1 against my Centauri. That WILL be FUN!

-K

On Friday, June 26, 2026 at 12:21:55 PM UTC-4 Bryan Murphy wrote:

[Bryan Murphy]

Be careful.  Some of the cables are really small and fiddly.  The part cooling fan cable in particular was a disaster to get out.  I nearly destroyed it trying to pry it loose.  Otherwise it wasn't too bad of an install.

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[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Well - Finally - Some good news:

I will indeed keep those things in mind - of the small cables that can break and get yanked off the unit. 

I hope it's Smooth Sailing for the setup!

-K

[Bryan Murphy]

I found the order in the instructions to also be less than ideal.  Don't disconnect the fan connector before taking off the circuit board.  Disconnect the fan and circuit board at the same time (but not the wire), take both off as a unit and then it will be much easier to hold both and get the wiggle you need to pry the cable out.

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[Kurt]

That sounds like a GREAT Suggestion! 

Believe me - I get VERY Frustrated by Instructions that are NOT good - or worse - when they SUCK! And, I say this from the perspective of having been a College teacher - part time - in NYC - teaching 3D CG classes - for 10 years. Including writing a Series of webpage tutorials - that I later turned it into a Book that is Still to this day sold online. I even did Several video tutorials for the classes. 

So - yeah - that's why I get picky about Instructions that are Less than Sub Par...

I just again found where my book is sold - in case anyone might be interested:   3DS Max: A Step-by-Step Approach: Kurt Wendt: Amazon.com: Books

And - NO - it is certainly NOT a Sales Pitch for the book...

-K

[Sean]

I got my Canvas this past weekend and installed it on Monday. Haven't had time to explore much past tuning and a test print.

I found this video from Elegoo more comprehensive than the provided assembly manual.

https://youtu.be/9SPYC6jRePQ?is=vazPlAzR2D8DCc47

Another suggestion I would make in deviation to their instructions is to put the USB cord for the hotend board back two links on the cable chain instead of just the one. It'll still move the exit point to the back of the chain but having the slight extra room doesn't kink the cable quite as bad.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

OMG - I forgot you were getting a Canvas too. VERY COOL! 

Interesting to see how many folks on here got the Centauri - and now the Canvas. 

But, I suspect I am the ONLY Cross-over between Centauri and SnapMaker users...

I am DYING to pit the Two Machines against each other - in a CHALLENGE to the DEATH! 

{OK - that's Extreme - it's a Challenge of Time/Waste - and we KNOW the U1 will win...}

-K

[Bob Swika]

I am also a crossover and have both the Centauri  Carbon and recently got the Snapmaker U1. I have the Canvas on order. I really don’t need the Canvas anymore since I have the U1 now but I doubt there is any way to cancel it. I do really like the Centauri. I have had no issues with it. 

Bob

On Jul 2, 2026, at 11:39 PM, Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!! <vr...@optonline.net> wrote:

OMG - I forgot you were getting a Canvas too. VERY COOL! 

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[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Hey Bob - cool to hear that - as it seems you followed the SAME Path as me - a Centauri - cause I needed a new printer - then a U1 - cause I got excited about having a Reasonably priced Tool Changer!

Will admit - I have had a BUNCH of problems with the U1 - and, for the most part - each time it required a TOTAL Recalibration of the machine. Downside to the Recalib -- you MUST stay by the machine - cause it asks you to do a BUNCH of stuff during the process - from Wiping all the nozzles - after it heats each one up - then a Removal of the build plate - and then putting back on the build plate - in order for it to continue forwards with each step. 

I also find it to be a bit of a bummer - all the tool changes - making for long print jobs. But, it's to be Expected!

-K