Problems with blobs on round wheels

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Ray Price

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Oct 14, 2022, 1:16:26 PM10/14/22
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I've had this design for 4 or 5 months, and it prints beautifully on my CR10s PRO v1 via PrusaSlicer.

Unfortunately, not so well on my CR6SE via PS.

The issue is that the outside perimeter has numerous small blobs when printed on the CR6SE, but is smooth as a baby's bottom on the CR10s PRO.

Here is an album of the issue, along with the extruder sections from each profile (CR10sPRO and CR6SE).


I've also attached the .3mf file for reference.

Running latest PS (2.5)

Any ideas on how to resolve this?  Speed maybe?


WI-LetterWheel-C-27 v6-x5-seampaint-Testing.3mf

bkaufm...@gmail.com

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Oct 14, 2022, 3:18:07 PM10/14/22
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because that is on corners, could it be a linear advance/pressure advance difference?

Kurt at VRFX

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Oct 14, 2022, 3:34:32 PM10/14/22
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I also noticed it was on the corners. Sounds like an issue that Input Shaping might resolve. But, maybe slowing the print down may also help. Just a thought...

-K

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bkaufm...@gmail.com

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Oct 14, 2022, 3:41:31 PM10/14/22
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Possibly. I run input shaping on all my machines, but pre/post comparison seems to be more around ringing and VFA. I am not seeing either here. But as was said, slowing down will probably improve things. It remains a question as to what is different in these two printers though. 

Ray Price

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Oct 14, 2022, 11:28:44 PM10/14/22
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Slowed it down (not exactly intuitive in PS), and that looks like it fixed the problem.

Thanks

Kurt at VRFX

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Oct 15, 2022, 1:34:43 PM10/15/22
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Hey there Ray,

I'm glad to see my suggestion solved your issue. And, it really was a WAG.

Now, after reading what you wrote - I had several thoughts.

I'm curious. I saw you mentioned it was not easy to do in PrusaSlicer. But, the other option - AFAIK - is to actually slow it down on the printer when its running. I know when I was last working at Essentium - and they had a Creality that a couple of us folks printed on (long story as to WHY there was a Creality - consider we have these Big Arse Hi-Tech printers for which the co. created) - but, I remember how one of the dudes was showing me how to push UP the speed of printing while its printing. As such, you should be able to slow it down that way.

Now, all that being said - I think slowing it down is a tentative solution - as I think the problem may be a little deeper. While working at Essentium - when having print issues - sometimes the key to the resolution was in the settings of how things are printed/sliced. So, you're real issue MAY be the Flow of the plastic - and maybe THAT needs to be Slowed down and NOT the speed of your print head. If too much plastic is being pushed out too quickly - that would cause an issue like what you see. The issue may also be happening on the insides of the object - you just only see it as a problem on the outside of the object.

As such, I think you might want to look into your Flow settings for your printer/slicer. And, you should then use some kind of Test objects that can print fast. Like if you print ONLY the outside walls of your wheel - and maybe have like 3 shells - that you could play around with Flow - and do the testing quickly!

Anyway - its just a thought...
-K

Ray Price

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Oct 15, 2022, 3:20:48 PM10/15/22
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Thanks for the input Kurt.

For PS, you can evidently modify print speeds on the Print Settings | Speed tab until the cows come home, but your print times won't really budge until you also go to the Filament Settings tab and activate "Enable auto Cooling" in the Cooling section, followed by bumping up the "Slow Down if layer print time is below" setting (under "Cooling Thresholds").  Not sure if this is a case of PS being "TOO" helpful or what, but that is the only way I could get the print times to change (after some sleuthing on the PS forum).  My print times went from 1h 40m to 2h so that is a bit of a bump compounded by the fact that this wheel is used as a set of 5 in my design.  I'll have to see if I can bump up the speed to retain quality but get a faster turn around.  Through all this I did have a chance to use the PS Elephant Foot compensation and that worked wonderfully.  Will have to keep it in mind for other things.  Really cleaned up the first layer "squish", which I've conventionally taken care of with a deburring tool.

As far as print settings, up until now, the CR6SE has been pumping out beautiful prints, some of which have had lots of opportunities to demonstrate issues with flow.  When I have a chance I'll see if I can circle back, but now that I think about it, I believe I did calibrate the extrusion (using Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration (teachingtechyt.github.io)) when I originally replaced the extruder and hotend with Microswiss gear, so it should be good.



Kurt Gluck

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Oct 19, 2025, 8:41:12 PMOct 19
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Any recommendations on brands etc of deburring tools ?   I am thinking of getting one

Kurt-A

(Other Kurt)

Ray Price

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Oct 19, 2025, 8:46:16 PMOct 19
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I've had this one for 6+ years and very happy with it.  Have changed the blade once, but was probably an operator headspace issue 


Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!

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Oct 20, 2025, 7:08:17 AMOct 20
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Interesting question there Sir!

But, and I hate to sound Negative - but, is the need for this tool because you have problems with the prints?

I would definitely like more input on your end - maybe even pics of what you want to "Deburr"!

-K

Kurt Gluck

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Oct 20, 2025, 12:00:44 PMOct 20
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I have watched too many videos where people tell me that I should get one. So… thats why.  
I mean I normally just RIP the helper disk or brim off the savage that I am.

Kurt-A

PS: Major success last night.  We are trapping stray cats (TNR) we had 11 traps lent to us.  Of two different sizes. We were told when you get more than one cat in a trap you have to transfer them so there is only one in a trap.  Not likeing the method of puttin the two traps faceing each other and usein your LEGS to fill the gap I quickly tinkercaded up an adaptor.   It almost fit.  I am now printing one that should fit. BUT last night between 2:30 and 4:30 AM I caught 6 cats in 5 traps Then this morning I got the rest (11 total, my neighbor got the 12th).  Anyway I had to do the transfer so I hackswawed the slightly oversized adaptor and it worked !

I love practical prints - 15 hours 500 grams. 


Sent from my iPad

On Oct 20, 2025, at 7:08 AM, Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!! <vr...@optonline.net> wrote:

Interesting question there Sir!

But, and I hate to sound Negative - but, is the need for this tool because you have problems with the prints?

I would definitely like more input on your end - maybe even pics of what you want to "Deburr"!

-K

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Kurt

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Oct 20, 2025, 12:37:21 PMOct 20
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Yo Kurt - you brag of the print job - but, no pics?!?!?

Also - we need pics of cats in traps. I'm a huge fan of cats - I Sincerely hope there is a happy ending to the story!!!

Understood now re: Deburr tool. Got it. Yes - actually - it will greatly help in removal of helper disc - or cleanup after removal. That ALL does indeed make sense.

-K

Kurt Gluck

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Oct 20, 2025, 1:42:23 PMOct 20
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Sadly at 3am when I went to oddity the model tinkercad was caught up in the Amazon outage and down 

So I  reprinting the adapter after modding it in the slicer 

Can’t send a pic of the adapter in use as all 11 cages have cat 

Can’t send pic of cats since if you cover the cage with a sheet the feral magically calms down and stops running at the end of the cage at 90mph 


Kurt-a

On Oct 20, 2025, at 12:37 PM, Kurt <kurt.the...@gmail.com> wrote:

Yo Kurt - you brag of the print job - but, no pics?!?!?

Sean

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Oct 20, 2025, 9:55:35 PMOct 20
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My opinion concerning deburring tools from 30 yrs in the metal working industry. 

There's primarily 2 sizes/series tools the B series and S series.

The B series is designed more for light duty work but is sharper and better suited for plastics deburring. Though if excessive pressure is applied it can dig in and gouge due to it's sharpness. I personally prefer this type to the other.

The S series is more for more heavy duty deburring on Stainless steel and cast iron. 
The type of edge grind that it has is too oblique for plastics and unless held at specific angles when used it will chatter. Most of the Chinese knock offs you find on Amazon and the like are this type. 
 
An easy way to tell the two series types apart is the length of the shank that goes into the handle. The S series is longer than the B series.

This printed unit from Makerworld popped up in my social feed a bit ago. It uses bots of breakaway utility blades as the cutting edge and has a corner similar to a corner plane used in woodworking. It looks like it could be a decent option. I've been meaning to try it out. 


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Kurt Gluck

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Oct 28, 2025, 12:35:22 AM (10 days ago) Oct 28
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Kurt-1

Here is that print job result (version 3 which works).  Was useful in transferring a cat between traps


We caught 11 cats and had them TNRed.  They have recovered been released and keep Comming back for more food. 

Kurt-A

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