3D Printing, VOC's & My Health - Oh My...

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

{I Truly wonder if ANYONE gets the Joke of the Subject line - and it's particular format?!?!?}

I've been planning on making this posting for a little while now, about this Problem of mine, although I did DM one person in the forum here that I communicated to about this problem!

AT work recently - like about 2 weeks ago or so - my co-worker made an Interesting observation! And, after he said it - it got me thinking - and he really is RIGHT!

That is - he noted that I have been coughing more - and - Worse part - the coughing sounds like a Smokers Hack - and I do NOT Smoke - Not Cigarettes - and almost NEVER the Wacky Tobaccy either - as it's just TOO DAMN Strong these days!

I Have Slowed down a bit lately, not been doing much 3D Printing - which is a Bummer - as there are SO Many projects I want to complete!!!

So, yup - I feel that the VOC's have Affected BADLY Again. Last time, it was back in like 2021 - I was working at Grumman in Redondo Beach, at the Height of the Covid epidemic. I ended up working on a Paid project for a buddy of mine in San Diego at a BioTech co. - and he needed a reprint of project parts - funnels and racks - that I had designed. I was printing them in my bedroom where I lived - and like 50 small funnels (in ABS - the Worst) - and then like 10 rack units(in PLA). Then, at work - I started clearing my throat more and more - and felt this kind of Chest congestion. Suddenly, I realized my mistake. And, since it was Covid times - and I KNEW it was NOT Covid causing my coughs - I worked from home for a Week (and, CEASED All 3D Printing).

But, now again - I'm printing - on my wonderful Elegoo Carbon - then realized I am coughing more.

So - NOW it's time to DEAL with this Crappy issue!

I've had a whole bunch of thoughts on how to deal with venting of the VOC's. Including shutting the printer in the bathroom when it's running - and using the bathroom fan to try and get the particles out. But, my co-worker bitches that the particles are TOO Heaving - and a high up bathroom fan won't do anything!

I was even looking at the BiQu Panda device (  BIQU Panda Breath Smart Air Filtration and Heating System with Precise – Biqu Equipment   ) - although - for a while there - I kept checking this webpage - and people were Bitching cause BiQu didn't release the product! But, going there today - it seems it NOW Is available for Purchase!

The other thought was to again keep printer in my bathroom, only print whilst a work - but, put a floor standing Air Filtration unit next to it!!!

So - Yeah - I want to know what other folks think about this. And - what's the Best solution!!!

BRING IT ON!

-Kurt

[Ed Street]

Short answer to VOC is this.   

DO   NOT   VENT!!!!!!

Instead, trap it inside a recirculating active carbon filter.  That way it won't end up in bad places like your body.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

That's kinda Tough to do. For 2 reasons. 

1 - If printing in PLA - My printer is required to have lid off and door open. 

-AND-

2 - Even if it's Shut - and I do NOT Print PLA - only things like PETG & PCTG - there is still a Poop shoot on the printer. And, I don't think the Elegoo Carbon has a built in Carbon air filter...

The BiQu device MIGHT indeed be a good solution for me - but, I hesitate to buy it - unless other have done so and confirmed it's a viable option that works well. 

In the end, what you say Does make sense - I just need to figure out a proper implementation!

-K

[Bryan Eckert]

Kurt, I too am coughing a lot, trouble breathing, etc. - not due to VOCs, but because it's cold and DRY out. In a month I won't be doing it anymore. 

Also, I feel like people get it wrong. VOC's are extremely short lived. They bind very quickly to solid particles (ultrafine particles and dust). Which is why when you smell something the smell subsides. It's these particles that can cause health issues when things like styrene from ABS bind to them and get inhaled. 

I have an air quality meter in the room, and VOC meter skyrockets when I take the cap off my Dimafix, or when cooking, or when my wife walks in due to perfume. When printing, it doesn't budge. At all. 2.5 particles may rise slightly. On my open bed V400 it picks up, but nothing ever goes into the red. 

I have a Voxel Vento filter on the back of my H2C, so I can vent the chamber after an ABS print since the back exhaust doesn't get filtered like the chamber. It's a HEPA/Charcoal filter like the one in the chamber and works well. I don't think they make a frame for the Elegoo but Im sure if you look around you can find one. There are lots of HEPA/charcoal filter mounts for the Elegoo on Makerworld. Which is really all you need for PLA.

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[Ed Street]

Keep in mind to just because PLA is 'safer than ABS/ASA' does not make it harmless.  There are still VOC emissions and other things.   I think I just invalidated a good 80%+ of the community's flawed thinking: PLA is 'safe,' so nothing is needed.  Many chemicals you can grow 'allergies' to; they build up over time with usage, and they become a serious problem.

Given that, a TRUE HEPA filter with active charcoal is about the only thing that would trap them properly.  Does this mean most 3d printers have a design flaw in this regard?  Yes, yes, they do!

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Bryan - I suspect you're right - about winter weather causing me to cough more - it does seem to make sense! 

Now - your suggestion of "HEPA/charcoal filter mounts for the Elegoo on Makerworld" - I did indeed just now look them up and I found several options - which I will get to in a moment. 

However, you made the comment of - "Which is really all you need for PLA" - are saying that it's sufficient for PLA - but, NOT Sufficient for PETG/PCTG/ABS? And, it's really ABS that Stinks the most!!! But, I Seriously want to print ABS as well!

I'm looking to head over to MicroCenter today - get me some more filament - but, also - some HEPA/charcoal filter sheets. 

Here are some printable frames I saw on MakerWorld:

     Centauri Carbon HEPA Filter - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

     Centauri Carbon HEPA + Active Carbon filter - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

I also saw this bucket - to attached to back of printer to the Poop Chute:

     Shit bucket for Centauri carbon - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

I figured that would make sense - not only to catch the Purges - but, also to help Trap the VOC's inside the printer - and make sure the only access is via for particles & air flow is via the Filter unit!

So - folks - any feedback would be Greatly appreciated!!!

-K

On Wednesday, February 4, 2026 at 9:20:22 AM UTC-5 Bryan Eckert wrote:

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Ed - I TOTALLY Agree with you - re: 3DP Design Flaw!!!

-K

[Bryan Eckert]

Air filters for VOC's are activated carbon, which the VOCs bind to. The HEPA captures particles the VOCs have already bound to.

My H2C is great for ABS/ASA because it is sealed (even the poop chute), and the air recirculates through the filters. 

Blasting it once through the filter isn't going to capture everything but it definitely will reduce by a significant amount. 

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/0028d3a0-0cab-4c75-b1d8-318503197c05n%40googlegroups.com.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

I'm SO Jealous of you and your H2C!

My trip to MicroCenter today was Mostly a Failure - in regards to help for Filters! Ugh...

More on that soon...

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

I found it Completely Abysmal - and also Inline with what Ed said about 3D Printer designs - and the lack of the co's considering the VOC's and the effects on Humanoids - that I would go into MicroCenter - and the ONLY THING They had for air filtering was this unit for the X1C:

     Bambu Lab Activated Carbon Air Filter for X1 - Micro Center

It was Cheap - so I bought it - figuring I could Potentially make use of it - and, as my Centauri is essentially a knockoff of the X1C - I should be able to implement it. 

But, Can I???

-K

[Bryan Eckert]

Here you go kurt:
https://www.printables.com/model/1263262-elegoo-centauri-carbon-filter-holder-for-voxelpla

Also, the VoxelPLA version of the filter is both HEPA and carbon, and costs less!

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/6c2c593f-ce89-4168-a538-6dfd585e1d29n%40googlegroups.com.

[Bryan Eckert]

Kurt here's the frame for the Voxel Vento, which I have on the back of my H2. Much larger filter so air flow is better. You can probably take this frame and modify it to fit the Centuri:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1805347-vento-air-filter-for-bambu-lab-h2-printers#profileId-1925503

[Kurt]

Bryan - thanks SO Much for your follow-up! 

BOOM - it's DONE! I just ordered the  VoxelPLA filter - actually got Five of them - so that I got FREE Shipping!

I may start with the Printables parts - and print them up ASAP - in prep for getting the delivery by like either this Thur. or Friday. And - Bang - I'm gonna start Seriously Cranking on printing parts!!!

-K

[Bryan Murphy]

Are you going to do anything else to your CC1 to help seal the cracks?  I'm tempted to do that with mine as well as adding some extra insulation to the inside panels.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/9cd61deb-aa31-404f-84d2-9f1e1abdc92bn%40googlegroups.com.

[david merten]

Hey get all your improvements done to the carbon and let me know how they work. I am about ready to get one. It has several features i can really use now. And I am impressed with what I have heard on this group. It keeps calling my name......

       David

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/CAP%2B1M2ebU-q8JODjtx3S7%3DbR%3DE0v-ZkYvSe_ettXLEE5zttTbg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Dan Flemming]

Have you ever thought it might be your ac unit contaminated with mold & mildew?

  I recently had this coughing, but I have hepa filters to filter my 3d printer air.

  I removed the front panel on my 4 ton ac unit and was shocked at how much black mold was inside the fan unit housing!

  I wished I'd taken pictures, you puld have squirmed at the sickly site. 

  My ac vendor wanted $450 to clean it, I did it for free, and it only took me 45 minutes (because I was cautious and not sure of how to proceed).

  Then I asked them about a light that kills the mold & mildew, they wanted $650!

  I bought on on Amazon and installed it myself for $70, then bought a wifi plug (4 for <$20 and created a timer to run 4 hours on, 4 hours off.

  Made a world of difference for me!

  Now I'm thinking of buying a system to kill all the mold & mildew in my overhead ductwork.

  Found a few, but they aren't cheap, but still under $300 for a decent one.

  This may not be your problem, but a new location might have this problem, it don't cost nothing to find out.

  Simple turn off the power, take the panel off and see if you can find mold...

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/CAPZzpqtiGXcSkwOAkwCy-hgvvtvjMxVViXPBoN0XbTGzCq1JwQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

What Cracks?

Yeah dude - I know there are going to be spots where particles can escape - and I may have to also consider that. Yes - gaps around door and such. I will have to see. BIG Test is - if I print like an 8-hour print in ABS - whilst I am at work - and I get back - and my place doesn't STINK - I know I am pretty close to a viable solution!

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

I will indeed keep folks posted!!!

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Dan - in my case - my Entire building is NEW - and, in fact - nobody every lived in my apartment unit! 

Just sayin'...

-K

[Kurt]

I'm rather bummed! Since - yesterday I ordered the parts, and I believe I saw a confirm that said I should get the package by like Thur. or Fri. - but, then today - I go and try the tracking # again - and now USPS claims I won't get it until Sat. - like 9pm the latest! 

That Stinks - cause I wanted to Test out the Stink Removal before then!!!

Oh well - I will have to be Patient (even though I am NOT a Dr.!)...

-K

On Monday, February 9, 2026 at 1:21:46 PM UTC-5 david merten wrote:

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

OK Bryan - parts printed today - whilst I was at work. Yeah - it's PCTG. Looks pretty SWEET!!!!!!!!

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

OK - DUH!!! A Pic would help...

[Bryan Eckert]

Looks great let us know how it works!

On Tue, Feb 10, 2026 at 6:38 PM Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!! <vr...@optonline.net> wrote:

OK - DUH!!! A Pic would help...

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[Ed Street]

Few tidbits and me fumigating my wisdom on the topic at hand ;)

* Cracks, gaps, seals, doorways, etc., are not super important; they need to be air-tight. Why? Because they will provide fresh air to the printer. The main job is to run *ALL* the air into and through the carbon chamber as many times as you can. In fact, keep it on for about oh say 5-10 mins, even 30 if you want, after the print is finished to clean up the air.

* Want to make the filtration even more effective? CLEAN THE INSIDE WALLS before long printing. Why? VOCs will STICK to clean surfaces more readily and faster than to dirty surfaces.  That equates to LESS the carbon filter has to remove.  I have tested this time and time again, and dirty inside means I smell it faster.  Clean inside means less smelly.

* CHANGE the carbon pellets often, like every 50 hours or 30 days.  I find that on my system, I would change it more often than that.  Use your nose; if you smell it, then change the filter, i.e., pellets.  Volume of VOCs produced is directly related to your flow rate, not temperature, but how fast it runs through the nozzle. Want to play it safe with smells?  A lower flow rate will take some of it off. Also, a Rapido 2 UHF hotend pushing max flow rate on ABS really stinks.  Ask me how I know ;)

* DO *NOT* use carbon pellets that contain acid.  Many of them do, and you will F&^K up your printer and destroy it; that acid will eat everything and will have a ton of rust.  Want to make acid even more potent?  Enclose it in something and keep bouncing it around. Everything inside that will die a horrible death.

* Also, again, venting VOCs just smears it around, and yes, it can come back inside for you to breathe.  It's better to trap it, neutralize it, and turn it into something you can handle more safely.

* That "new' smell you have in things?  Yea that's VOC, those air fresheners for cars?  yup, VOC.  That new-car smell is a phthalate plasticizer, etc. It is present in most 'new' things, too.  In fact, this is why a new print build plate is dirtier than a used plate ;)  It's the stuff that makes plastic soft. It leeches out, and when that happens, the plastic is no longer soft and is now hard.

[Kurt A 3d]

Kurt-1

My filtration is the XL's premade filters. They are pricey.   You have to replace them every 500 hours of printing. They use carbon and hepa.

Since you are doing this yourself, some suggestions:   Consider getting your carbon from a PET supply store for fishtanks.  I dont know if you can source cleaner/safer carbon, and Ed's acid comment is well taken, I dont know if the marine carbon is low acid but there probably can't be much wrong with it or it would kill peoples fish. 

I get this stuff from amazon for filtering my cats waterfowl: Marineland Black Diamond Premium Activated Carbon, Filter Media for Aquariums, 40 Ounces "Amazon's AI says: Yes, according to customer Q&A on the product page, the Marineland Black Diamond Premium Activated Carbon is acid-free. This makes it suitable for aquarium use without affecting your tank's pH balance."

As I said before the idea is to have a positive airflow through the filter.  Recirculating the air back through the printer will of course help with your maintaining chamber heat, on the other hand the crap you dont want to breath is also bad for your printer :-).      

Consider getting a VOC measurement device. Also besides the filter on the printer, get an air cleaner as well. I have a number of levoit-core-300's in my house. The filters that also claim to remove VOCs cost more, and you have to replace filters more often than you would like ($$).

Kurt-A

[Ed Street]

Here is an excellent resource on this very topic.  Also, not all carbon is the same. Also on this link is vendors, specs and the rust issue I addressed.  Even if you dont go with the nevermore you can certainly gain some megga education on this topic.    https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro?tab=readme-ov-file

[Kurt]

I'm SO Excited - I got a message and turns out it will get delivered TWO Days Early!

I look forward to seeing how this turns out. I've actually been doing prints of a couple ABS parts - I may do a whole batch of those parts tomorrow - to see if the printer really stinks up my apartment whilst I am at work!

[Kurt]

Ed - I went to that link - looks like some interesting read. I had no idea that some of the carbon filtration stuff might have acids involved - which could mess up my printer. I will also take your advice and Clean the inside of my printer as well!

Looking forward to getting the package today - and installing things tonight!

[Ed Street]

Here is where/how the acid enters the manufacturing chain.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Activated_carbon

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Hey there Ed - that's some VERY Interesting info indeed!!!

I have to say - this whole discussion would be Great Fodder for a potential podcast segment for Andy!

So - here we go...

I got the filters. Sadly though - the purple part I printed was a Tad TOO small for a proper fit of the filter. That being said - and I hope it's not a bad idea to have done this - but with some effort I was able to squeeze it into the plastic part - as one can see here:

I did indeed install it - as you will see from the following pic. And, now it's time to open up a further discussion - which directly has to do with a lot of what you wrote about Ed - and keeping all the VOC's Trapped inside the printer! So - here are my thoughts - in regards to this pic:

There were Two of those kind of grill areas on the back of the printer - one is now covered with the purple printed part and the filter. I'm assuming that is where air is vented Out of the print - and the vents I am pointing to with the Red arrow - is where air is venting IN to the printer. The rectangular area under the purple parts is obviously the purge chute. What I had in mind is that that whole entire area should be covered - such that are coming OUT of that filter area should essentially be fed BACK Into the printer - and if the Entire area was covered properly - maybe with like a Flap area near the purge chute - that would then circulate all the area back into the printer. 

What do YOU Think Ed???

-K

[markni...@gmail.com]

Kurt,

Since you initialy made note of this product: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Filament-Bambu-Lab-Snapmaker-Voron2-4/dp/B0GMQG8CKP?crid=1M5IUSNK2T8FO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Ak4N48Ftu0I7vjI7r_6Ux8OBcCCiPxy9AnLisjJ5UYM-CRXRpxYpzfLjJofF8lkl-matqGcC09lDYdmq1DyHhPPbw7auTjMxg2ywQQBTC4UCSPsup-aUSUGeInhsAujApNM4WzwKvH_SYf9dbrrRR3m5O-ZrMlFE0rLAn8q5n3s.av0jPUdhQSB0WyW7KgMFhc4HESyri_6Htx3TNVwF_80&dib_tag=se&keywords=biqu+panda+breath&qid=1771095958&sprefix=biqu+panda+breath%2Caps%2C1273&sr=8-3

The Bqu Panda Breathe looks very cool, but it's not cheap.

[Bryan Eckert]

Panda Breath does NOT fit in the Centauri Carbon unfortunately.

However a Bento Box would work great.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/72cf7956-80aa-4186-823e-70a99ea38053n%40googlegroups.com.

[Ed Street]

Where to start.  

First, I pulled the Centauri Carbon, which appears to be what you are showing.  On the back are the exhaust/intake ports.  For a true closed-loop system, you would need to place the filter between the two and recirculate the air back into the printer.  So an additional fan would force exhaust out of the exhaust port, into and through the carbon pellets, and back into the printer.  The required flow must exceed the static pressure at the exit of the poop chute.  Otherwise, it would be a waste of effort, as the air would take the path of least resistance and flow out the port.

Let me use an example that should be easy to understand,  in diving, the most common method is open circuit, which is almost all printer designs, and that is just spew it out wherever and really don't care where or what.  semi-closed, which we won't go into just yet, and closed-circuit.  In closed, the exhaled breath is recirculated through a scrubber and oxygen is added to make up for the used amount, then goes back into the lungs for another breath, then rinse / repeat ad nauseam.   This is the goal we should strive for with 3d printer.  Once a print is done then WHERE is the voc's?  its on the walls, tubing, fan blades, and above all else mostly in the active carbon pellets, which is disposable.  Above all, they are strategically trapped, contained, and dealt with accordingly. 

[Ed Street]

Forgot to post this.   https://www.printables.com/model/1321242-centauri-carbon-fan-intakeexhaust-noise-suppressio  use 2 fans, one sucks, one pushes over the respective ports, and put the filter behind the fans and form a U shape over that so air must flow through the filter.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Mark - yes - I know it's not cheap - it's like $190. But, the extra cost it Worth it - if it does the job! That being said - seems it's not Viable based upon Bryan's feedback!

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Yeah - Bryan - bummer the Panda would not work. I mean - I looked at it - and it seems it should fit in the inside side of the Centauri. But, alas - I didn't take any measurements...

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Ed - what I posted - was indeed the idea of recirculating. So - the exhaust port out - but, pull the air back in - and also enclose the poop chute. So - it SEEMS to me you are repeating back to me when I already mentioned...

As for your next post...

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

That printed part makes NO sense - unless - you are saying - to put a fan in between those 2 port holes. But, that printed part does NOT Take the Poop Chute into Consideration!

Just sayin'...

Yeah - my project is still a bit of a Work-in-Progress...

[Ed Street]

Ok how about this then?  :)  Needless to say the green filter would be sealed so no air gets around ti.  the link was to the mount for the printer and this would be the additional sections to add to it.  Also mounting would be in the duct section.  This is an exploded view and the ductwork would be a U shape.

[Ed Street]

the static pressure from the fans should counteract the poop chute air loss.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Hey there Ed,

Thanks for the quick 3D CG Mockup - which is VERY Much appreciated. However, I hope you are not going to consider my reply as slamming of your suggestion or condescending - as that is Truly NOT what I want to relay...

So, I will be honest - I feel that your solution is going to make things overly complicated. NOT Only the addition of Fans - but, how do you power them up? I know - at times - folks can connect a fan into the existing controller boards of a 3DP - but, I suspect that is NOT what you're suggesting I should do!

My original point - use the Existing 3DP fans to make things work - Do INDEED make a Closed loop between exhaust fan (which has the filter) and the other fan grating on back of the machine. Also, my plan - just kind of Close up the poop chute! I think this is a kind of cute implementation:

     Elegoo Centauri Carbon poop chute door - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

My idea would be to implement that - or Similar - even use a bit of TPU in the design to help seal things up. 

Also - there's Another BIG problem with all of this - and Sealing up the 3DP - and making a closed loop circulation system:   PLA!

Your thoughts???

-K

[markni...@gmail.com]

Kurt,Assuming that you get your filtration system worked out, Creality makes a smaller, less expensive heater, that should work in your Centuari Carbon.:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FL7RX9CG?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Kurt A 3d]

Are you trying to 

1) Clean the air you breathe?

2) Efficiently heat the printer?

3) Not Gum up your printer?

Not all of these goals are aligned

While the only experience I have in these matters is running my XL with its enclosure and its fan, and I dont print ASA, my reading would seem to indicate that the best thing you can do is exhaust the air (as with a fume hood) out through to the outside - using negative pressure to keep pulling fresh house air into the printer.  This is not energy efficient and keeping the chamber heated will be a challenge.   

Recirculating the air, and keeping the printer airtight will gum the machine up.  Long ago (early '80s) I read a memo that was concerned about the outgassing from vinyl  looseleaf binders and the bad effect it had on the electronics in telephone switching systems.   (They were concerned about the electronics not the people :-) ).   The issue is that with every major release of software everyone would get all new binders for all the documentation and they all outgassed plasticizers (sorry can't spell worth a damm).  One of the suggestions by the way was to reuse looseleaf binders.  ANYWAY 3 printing of course releases a ton more crap than just putting a bunch of  looseleaf binders on a shelf.

So, my point (there is one here) - you might think that recirculating the air helps clean it more since it passes through the filter multiple times, BUT on each subsequent pass through the printer it of course is going to pick up more crap,   If you assume that for a single pass through the printer while its printing your air (A) picks up (C) crap than in 5 passes it would pick up 5C.   Now if you assume that on a pass through your filters you clean X units of crap (where X < C ) then after 5 units of time you would only clean 5X, but its worse than that because your air is going to be dirtier on each pass than if you were just disposing of it.  See the air in the printer on the 2nd pass will have C-X + X in it plugging the filter up faster and faster, and depositing all sorts of crap on your belts, electronics, printbed and everything else in there.   

The only advantage of recirculating the air is that it saves on heat. 

I dont know of anyone who gets rid of sawdust in a shop by recirculating the sawdust back through their tools. 

Kurt-A

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

I really don't think I need an extra heater - as I've been heating the chamber and printing ABS mostly fine. Although I did get a fail on my last print job - and it seemed that the fail must have occurred within like the last 10 minutes of the print job - but, mostly cause I was trying to print parts in a rather Unstable orientation. The problem was - printing the part in an orientation to put the layer lines to handle the most Stress of using of the part - problem is - small surface in contact with bed - and there is indeed a connected Brim:

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Mostly to keep the air in my apartment Clean - so I am NOT breathing in the particles. Your math seems to make sense - but it may be a bit exaggerated - as this filter being both Carbon & HEPA - I think it even more efficient than you think! So - I do NOT think there is as much stuff staying inside the machine and gunking it up as you seem to believe! Just sayin'...

And - recirculating saw dust air - I think that comparing apples to oranges. 
-K

[3D Printing Tips and Tricks]

Ok then.., instead of making this all absurdly complicated, just buy yourself a room hepa filter!

Limited-time deal: LEVOIT Air Purifier for Home Allergens Pet Hair in Bedroom, Covers Up to 1073 ft² by 56W High Torque Motor, AHAM VERIFIDE, 3-in-1 Filter with HEPA Sleep Mode, Remove Dust Smoke Odor, Core300-P, White https://a.co/d/0b6I6vx4

[Bryan Eckert]

Just as a little tidbit on recirculation through a filter - approaching some 800 hours on the H2C, mostly ABS. 

The inside of the machine is fairly clean. I haven't had to clean it like I would have in the past with machines that didn't circulate through a carbon filter. Replaced the filter at 500 hours, wiped off the rods and that's about it. Windows don't have a haze on them.

One caveat though - I mainly print Polymaker Polylite which uses a "cleaner" resin stock that supposedly doesn't outgas as much. So is it that, or the filter? Probably a bit of both. I do know when I open the door printing polylight the smell is faint, but I have printed a few rolls of Sunlu "silver" for a project and the strong odor I'm used to is there with that brand.

Kurt since the panda breath doesn't fit I really would suggest a bento box. A lot of folks installed them in their X1C's to print ABS/ASA and most of what I've seen people say it really helps. You can buy them through BIQU, or VoxelPLA or make your own.

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[Kurt A 3d]

You replace the XL filters every 500 hours (you can push to 600) anyway 500 hours of printing comes quickly unless you are selling a used printer in which case folks seem to say that their 2 year old Prusa XL has only 25 hours of print time on it.  (I had a hard reset last January so I only have 13 months of stats and I am like @ 180 days ( 4320 hours) of print time since last January).  

Kurt-A

[Bryan Eckert]

Yes 500 hours does come quickly! Especially when every print I do is about 10 hours long. 

I got some replacement filters off Amazon, they are HEPA/charcoal so I'm wondering how well they will do. It was a 2 pack for $14 or so.

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[Kurt]

The ones I got from Voxel were like $5 a pop - and if you buy a batch - like or so - you get free shipping!

[Bryan Eckert]

Yeah I got some of those too for my X1C. Just replaced one actually. I like them.

The H2 chamber filter isn't square, it's tall. Unfortunately the Vento filter they have doesn't fit the space, I hope they make one for the chamber soon.

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