SnapMaker Slicer - a Prime/Purge Object???

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Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!

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Aug 28, 2026, 5:54:09 PMAug 28
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So - in the world of multi-color 3D Printing - I know some folks have solved the problem of Purge/Prime towers by instead printing an object of a tower - and the Purging/Priming gets done via this "Throw Away" object. Someone in the forum here was printing a Chameleon character - and using That as the Throw away object. 

But, I am honestly Curious to know if ANYONE here has done that with the SnapMaker Slicer for their U1 Printer?!?!?!?

-K

3D Printing Tips and Tricks

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Aug 28, 2026, 10:51:56 PMAug 28
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Towers eating into your print time?
You want to minimize tool changes. Does your slicer allow you to do more than one layer per tool? You might be able to get away with two layers per tool easy. Beyond that it depends on the object.

Have you tried setting retract on tool change to a length that will pull the material out of the melt zone and then printing without a wipe purge tower?
I do it all the time on the XL... for PLA. Petg still needs a wipe tower depending upon the quality of the petg.

Gary Myles

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Aug 28, 2026, 10:54:13 PMAug 28
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I will suggest using something like Print-A-Blok as the purge/prime object

As the end object will still be useful 

 However it seems that ever since Bambu came along, very, very few consider this as an option, and would rather dump the poop, or make a purge/prime tower and throw it away.

I have no clue how to educate people on this
Particularly as this year, so many new tool changers have entered and will enter the market 



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3D Printing Tips and Tricks

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Aug 29, 2026, 2:51:09 PMAug 29
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With so many Toolchangers entering the mkt there will be added pressure to solve the prime wipe puzzle for reals.
The retraction out of the melt zone on parking and the silicon brushes for each tool on my XL are the closest Ive gotten to an actual solution. I.e., no purge and no tower.

Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!

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Aug 30, 2026, 11:06:46 AMAug 30
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So - yesterday I started going down the Rabbit Hole with the SnapMaker Slicer - in my case, it was specifically for trying to implement Sequential printing. 

And - just a tidbit on this - for those that are not Too Familiar with Sequential printing. The deal is, once you begin to prep for sequential printing - the Slicer will show a boundary box - so you can make sure you don't have Collisions. In my case - I have 2 Short parts - and then 2 Tall parts. In this pic - you can see I have one of the Short parts selected - and I am moving it around - and when you begin to move it - you will see the Bounding Box:
Sequential Layout.jpg

Now - you CAN Push things close to the Edge of the print volume  and it's OK that the bounding shape (which are really rectangles with Large Chamfers on them) actually goes OVER the edges of the build plate. 

And - here is the final completed sequential print:
Completed Seq Print.jpeg

In may not be obvious - but, there are a number of good reasons to Do Sequential printing (which you CAN Also doing on a Single head printer). If it's Non-Obvious - feel free to ask here for more info - or simply Google for the answer...

Anyway...

Reason for going down Rabbit Hole - was, cause, on other printers/slicers - I have been able to Control those Bounding boxes. I could NOT find that option in the SnapMaker Slicer! But, whilst looking - that's when I came across a whole bunch of options - and a Bunch of options Very specific to the tool changing process - as you mentioned Andy.

I really SHOULD Try the whole idea of pulling the material out of the Melt Zone! I should really do some Serious Experiments of doing Exactly That!!!

But, it begs the question - Why does it always work Fine for you with PLA - but, NOT always with PETG? What's the big Differentiator? I also then wonder if PCTG would work better then PETG - and work more like PLA in regard to this process?!?!?  Hmmm...

-K

3D Printing Tips and Tricks

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Aug 30, 2026, 12:21:57 PMAug 30
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Some PETG formulations leave very fine, wisps of strings no matter what you do in settings. The faint wisps combine and eventually you get a blob that can fall into the print. A tower can help, but Ivehad the blob foul up the tower and knock the system out of register when it collided with it.
PETG also an be stickier and strings can tag along on to the hotend… these usually end up on the tower keeping the print clean.
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