eSun ABS+ temp

[Ciro Napolitano]

Hello everyone, nice to meet you all.

I've been looking for an excuse to come say hi to this group forever and I think I might just have found it. 🙂

I've recently started slowly brewing the idea of building a Voron 2.4, mainly because I want a tool changer and the Prusa XL('s price) just isn't for me, I like open-source, doing things myself and yata yata yata...

I haven't decided to do it quite yet, but I thought I'd start by learning to print ABS and then take it from there.

As a diligent and competent maker I've refrained myself from doing a silly first print and printed a temp tower instead. I figured I'd start by getting the temperature right, the rest will come.

Here's my result.

(Temps did vary, I've been looking at the temp sensor the whole time it was printing)

My favourite is either 220 or 225, I'll probably just go with 220, but the point is I was expecting the temperatures to be significantly higher. "Around 260" I heard. "You might need an all metal hotend" I heard.

But in terms of temperature it's just about a 10% hotter than my PLA. Is it because it's an ABS+ or I've terrible research skills and got it all wrong?

I guess my real concern is would I still be good to build my printer out of this stuff or am I going to worry 30% of my printer is going to melt while printing? 🤣

Again I mainly wanted to come say hi so I didn't really go research before posting, please don't hate me.

[Ed Street]

No,  ABS+ is not worth building out of. It fails the Voron build criteria and is frowned upon.  The general rule of thumb on the + materials is that they sacrifice print quality for easier-to-print, which is what you do NOT want.  You do want easy-to-print AND great strength.  ASA would be well suited for that build.  As for temps goes with ABS, it's mostly unnecessary to do a temp tower with it.  Temp towers is more of a PLA thing that is prone to stringing by temp.

[Scott Hess]

Storytime!  [TL;DR: the + stands for "some additive which makes it easier to print, but which messes with layer adhesion."]

A bit over a year ago, I gave in and ordered a V0.2 kit.  A friend convinced me that rebuilding an old bedslinger (a 12v Wanhao i3) to print my ABS parts would be a good learning experience, and it certainly was.  As part of that, I watched a ton of videos on YouTube, and got some black eSun ABS+ to practice with because Nero3D mentioned it a couple times.  I had gotten some Polymaker ABS for my main build, but I figured I should do my practicing and initial tuning using something other than my "good" filament.

So I stripped everything apart, rebuilt and added things like a MOSFET for the heated bed, more electronics cooling, Klipper, Z braces, cardboard box enclosure, filter in the enclosure, etc.  Soon I was laying down PLA, so then I loaded the ABS+ to take the next step, and it was easy-peasy, just worked.  Great!  As I calibrated, I naturally got to a temp tower, and the tower was pretty much identical from surprisingly low temps to moderate temps - and had basically no layer adhesion, it just crumbled apart in my hands.  I also noticed that it was very matte.  Obviously not hot enough, right?  Ran the tower again while watching the displays to make sure it was actually changing temps, and it was actually changing temps.  Then I pushed the temps as far as I could, managed 280C, and still nothing, heat didn't seem to matter, which didn't make sense at all.  Maybe my printer wasn't measuring heat correctly?  I had already had to debug a 10k-versus-4.7k resistor problem throwing off the temp measurements.  So I pulled out a second thermistor, wired up an Arduino Nano as a secondary MCU, and took an independent temp from elsewhere on the heater block.  It wasn't identical, but the generated graph tracked pretty closely with the primary thermistor.

At that point I got frustrated over having wasted time rebuilding that stupid machine.  I threw on the Polymaker ABS.  Temp tower _immediately_ showed expected results with a clear too-high section.  Layer adhesion was miles better, it took work to pull things apart.  So I got printing, and it all worked fine.

And, of course, at that point I started noticing that every day or two someone would post on Facebook about eSun ABS+ and people would come out of the woodwork discussing layer adhesion.  Sigh.

Again - that ABS+ was super easy to print, and it looked fine.  I ended up using it for skirts and tophat and other non-functional parts, and it was fine.  No delamination or anything, and with four perimeters the parts were plenty strong enough.  It's possible that it would have been fine for functional parts, but I wouldn't chance it.

-scott

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[TobyCWood]

1 question for ya Scott… was downward cooling on when you were printing this abs+? If it was, then that’s your problem. For any ABS downward cooling has to be minimized or even completely off.

[Ciro Napolitano]

Hey @scott,

that's some amazing information you shared with me right there, thank you very much!

Is it just me or today it's becoming more difficult to get accurate information? 

I'm just going to go on a little OT here but I promise I'll tie it all back in.

When I discovered about Klipper for example, all the information I had to go on was "it gives you massive performance improvement" and the various Youtube videos explaining how to set it up, but not much more. Nothing explaining why it'd give you performance improvements, what sort of improvements on what aspects, how when and why it came to be, nothing concrete.

I lost interest in it in about a week of research and moved on. It was only when I digged an old RPi out of a box by chance that I said I'm just going to give it a go. 

Later I found out about all the pressure advance and input shaping, and those for me were purely print quality improvements. I guess it's kind of my fault for not connecting the optimization of the acceleration with the speed improvement, but I still have a feeling like that sort of information should be more accessible.

Now might be a good time to mention that I have only been around 3D printing for about a year and before I was kind of oblivious to it.

Now I am kind of traumatized by the need to ask for help, because of how hard it's become to me to find good information, and I'm very glad I've stumbled across the podcast, the group and you sir. This was the first time I got information quick, easy and exhaustive in a long time.

Anyhoo, the sole reason why I went with eSUN in the first place was because I am a very happy user of their PLA. At the beginning I tried lots of different brands, never really had any particular problem with any of them, but eSUN had nice colours, printed great and the price was right, so I stuck to it.

This time when I started looking for ABS I've gone straight for "eSUN ABS" in the search bar, I noticed they only made the + stuff, so I Googled it and "it's got additives and it's easier to print" - Sweat! - I said and proceeded to order. I haven't even considered looking at other brands. I did notice it being cheaper than the PLA, but I thought it was because maybe the market doesn't like ABS too much since it's difficult to print and all that, so demand and offer has done it's thing. Now I feel like eSUN might have done me wrong personally on that.

And this is to say that I printed a fan duct for one of my machines today and I noticed the quality being not on par with the same part printed in PLA. I'm glad you also had a similar experience and shared it with me, I can just label it under "materials issue" and move on, because I was honestly thinking maybe it's a peculiarity of the part itself.

I am printing a Voron part with it as I am typing, I'm going nice and slow, little hotter, little overextruded, just because failure of this part's quality check will make the purchase of the 4x more expensive Polymaker stuff much easier on my conscience.

Meantime I'd be glad if you or anybody else had tips on how to print the actual ABS. 

So far I got:

• make sure bed is clean and level;
• use enclosed printer
• little to no part cooling

Hi @Ed!

I was actually thinking about ASA. As far as I know it should be pretty much the same thing, with added UV resistance, which sounds ideal to me.

Anything else I should know about this material?

[Chris Albertson]

I have some eSin ABS+ in the printer right now.   It works well and is easy to print but I would not use it for functional mechanical parts.   The plastic is way too flexible.   If you look up the physical properties of various plastics, this is about the worst one of them.     Why Do I use it?   I'm making cover plates for wall switches right now, these get sanded and painted and are non-structural.  I wanted ease of printing, easy to sand and finish, and low cost.

The best plastic for making Voron printers I've found so far is the one Formbot uses to make their printed parts, Paeetus "ABS-GL". It is just the normal ABS bit with 10% glass fiber added.   The parts come out stiffer and don't warp.

BTW, I am printing the eSun ABS+ at 260 C and 105 C bed temp.   I may not need 260 C but it seems to stick to the build plate better if it goes down hot. (your reasults could vary.)

Finally, for mechanical arts, the temperature tower helps you some.  But the real test is to break some parts.  Put them in a vice and rip them apart.   See how they fail.  The last thing you want is to always fail by layer adhesion.  The best is if they fail randomly like the way a glass pickle jar would if you tried to bend it.   Random means the material is homogenous.

I don't have a favorite filament, I like to match it for intended use cases.

[Ed Street]

Voron parts have a guideline for the slicer settings. You want a set number of walls, position on the bed, infill pattern, and infill density.

ABS/ASA basics:

* Fan speed depends on what fan you have; ABS loves movement but not mad amounts like PLA, so as low as 30% and as high as 80% should be good.  For bridges and overhangs, it's fine to bump that up.

*Bed temperature: While many might suggest 90C, it's important to note that the glass transition temperature for ABS/ASA is 105C. Therefore, setting it around this range is optimal. A slightly higher temperature of 110C can significantly enhance bed adhesion and prevent warping.  If you have problems maintaining that temperature, use bed fans and add insulation to the chamber.

* The optimal chamber temperature is 65C, but most commercial printers spit out 60C, so the higher the better. The problem you run into is that electronics will break down stupidly easily at 70C+, so either don't put electronics in the chamber (best), drop the temp (trade-off), or use 60C ish.  A higher bed temperature will help that chamber temperature as well.

* Nevermore / active carbon filter. This is a MUST. You do want some active means to remove styrene gas, which is a VOC. Wiping down the walls of the chamber before EVERY print will indeed reduce the airborne gas levels. Why is this? Styrene particles love to bind to clean surfaces better than dirty ones. A clean surface does drop the airborne levels up to 20%.  If you smell styrene then you need to replace the active carbon, they come in bags and they are acid-free (acid-based charcoal will destroy your printer very fast) HEPA filters in the room can also help, however, let your nose be the guide, if you smell it you are breathing it, so clean, clean, clean and clean more, change the carbon filters and fan on in the room, vent the room you should be good.

* ABS is more prone to overhangs and angles than PLA. Be mindful of this, and all should be well. You will have more problems with ABS on angles than with PLA. The gap is something like 5-10 degrees; I don't have the exact numbers right now.

* Hot end temps, 240C to 260C for both.

* ABS / ASA will string if you see that, then toss it in the filament dryer for 4-5+ hours, and it should be good from there; a quick sample print will tell you if it needs more time in the dryer.

Here is my ERCF v2, which is 98% finished. It is printed exclusively in ASA and has a total of about 10-12 colors. It is on top of my Voron 2.4 with glass panels.  When this photo was taken, I had some wiring to do and was redoing the knob.  I am also going to powder-coat all the screws before it is over; I just have not had time to do that yet.

Hope this helps ....

Oh, and the Voron glass mounts and light blocks inside the chamber are printed in ASA purple.

[Scott Hess]

There could be a thousand things - but switching filaments fixed it, and many others reported similar issues, so I’m not super inclined to debug further!

This wasn’t a lamination issue, it had reasonable bed adhesion and parts at that size weren’t warping.  Once I got rolling with the polymaker, I didn’t have many problems printing voron parts. I was even able to print the top hat out of the abs+, which are good-sized parts.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/18bca65a-58e1-4f07-baa8-ddd46a115371n%40googlegroups.com.

[Scott Hess]

I don’t feel like eSun tricked me.  The abs+ was easy to print, it looked nice, it printed really well across a wide range of temps, etc.  I think the additives worked ! It just didn’t have the layer adhesion I needed for that project.

Klipper advantages are kind of around having an overpowered cpu paired with microcontrollers to run the stepping.  It makes it lots easier to experiment and tweak, perhaps to excess.  I recently built a Marlin firmware for a printer, and it was comparatively annoying :-).  All that said, klipper can be a big carry for some, since you’re basically maintaining a new computer.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/56aa9473-d056-47cd-a336-401fd8ce6143n%40googlegroups.com.

[Scott Hess]

Hmm, also, my theory with polymaker was that it was just a couple rolls, I’m not committing to always buy a premium brand forever!  It mostly shows as $21 on Amazon, which is low enough that I mostly don’t care to play around to save money.

As far as printing, evenly heated bed, enclosure, etc.  I had mine in a closed room in hopes of reducing any leakage around my cardboard box.  I printed on kapton tape on bare aluminum, and it worked really well.  Parts went down well, and they just popped off after cooling.  I had some hotend fan leakage downward that I had to fix with strategic kapton tape.  You may need some light part fan cooling, which caused me some problems because my fan couldn’t do low enough flow.  I ended up with a new fan shroud and an adapter to use a smaller fan.

Also dial in your flow/EM, so that your print head isn’t hitting the part all the time.  I use the Ellis calibration guide, mostly.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!]

Yo there Ciro!

I'm REALLY Glad you posted!!! I'm sorry to hear you felt Wary about posting - and felt you needed something SERIOUS to talk about before posting!

Either way - Welcome to the Hive Mind!!!

Wow - this thread blew up FAST - as in - Intense and LONG Arse replies. These day - I've been working longer hours - so, very little time to read the forum and reply - but, I do my best...

Sadly - I should be posting More and Replying MORE - since I am VERY Entrenched in the 3D Printing world! 

Heck - I still think VisionMiner is a bit of a Game Changer in the 3DP World, in regards to Getting things right with Hi-Temp Exotic Materials printing! Of course, since that's why I deal with at work and really Pushing things - Hells Yeah - it keeps me busy!!!

This reply may be long  - but, alas - so has everyone else's...

Too bad I hear folks Blasting the ABS+ kinda thing. Honestly - I was always a HUGE Fan of ABS - cause of Acetone Welding - and, of course, I melt that Shit down and do my Abstracts. But, ABS on a standard hobby level printer can be a BITCH to print - due to Warping and Delamination! 

Sure - ALL my stuff in my early days - on my CupCake - was ALL ABS (Not only the Amazing Dragon project - but, that fun Dildo Project). But, with a small build volume like the CupCake - ABS printing is more Viable. However, you go BIGGER - and your PROBLEMS Get Bigger with ABS...

Yeah, long day for me - going to cut this short. But, DANG - I still have a LOT OF Reading to do in this Thread!!!!

That one pic in the thread was WILD - it looks almost like it was a Rendering - but, it WAS a Photo! Thank Mr. Street for sharing that Cool Arse Pic!

OK - that's it for now...

-K

On Thursday, May 2, 2024 at 12:43:01 AM UTC-7 Ciro Napolitano wrote:

[Ciro Napolitano]

I have the polymaker stuff in my Amazon cart right now sitting at 31.99€ with a 11% off (originally 36.01).

I mean, it's not the end of the world, but it is significantly more expensive than the eSUN.

Also I don't see many colours available. I haven't decided on a colour scheme yet, but I also didn't want to go red and black.

Oh, by the way I've finished the CW2 main body print with the eSUN and... Meh. 

Definitely sturdier than the single wall fan duct but i don't know much about ABS to be honest, I feel like PLA is still much stronger. Maybe it's because it's lighter?

[TobyCWood]

PLA is not stronger in general than abs… unless of course you anneal it, but then it’s near impossible to maintain tolerances.

[Scott Hess]

I’m in the US, so pricing might vary.  For me the plain blacks and reds come up $21 or $22.

I haven’t printed tons with ABS, but I recently printed a bunch of parts for a bedslinger out of a no-name filament that cost like $13, and they have been pretty darn solid.

My inclination is to not trust special-additive ABS for functional parts, unless you know you need the special part of the formulation.  The problem with the $13 filament above is that it was literally no name, so who knows if the next roll will work as well?

-Scott

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/CAB4M3Kqt7-NDCWuORojGCuMeV_pk2mSFaCvi6A2Q5mfXbwXNcQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Ciro Napolitano]

Guys, I'm so sorry I am just now realizing I have only seen a limited amount of replies coming through my email, please don't think I tried to ignore you, I'm completely new to these Google Groups.

@Chris Albertson, I am honestly pondering what the benefits of this ABS+ would be. Yes it is easy to print, but so is PLA. Actually PLA is far easier. Maybe making dishwasher safe stuff? I recently made a cup holder and a snack tray for my niece's stroller in PLA and my sister asked me if she could throw them in the dishwasher, and I said no, because they'd probably get damaged.

But thanks for the printing settings. I'll give them a go right now, see if the part I printed improves. Still not gonna use it, but I'll take it as a learning opportunity.

 @Ed Street, HOLY COW THAT IS COOL! I didn't know there was a multimaterial system for the Vorons. I still prefer the idea of the tool changer, but WOW THAT'S COOL!

Thanks for all the advice on printing ABS/ASA. I am now running another eSUN ABS+ with the nozzle at 260 and the bed at 100. I don't dare going hotter just because I've ordered an all metal hotend but it hasn't arrived yet, and the bed max temp was set at 100 in the printer.cfg when I downloaded it, so I figure someone that knows better than me set it like that.

Regarding the Stirene management, I actually have my printers in the shed outside, so I am not really worried at all. The enclosure on my printer seems to do a great job since temperatures in there easily reached 70C while printing yesterday.

Hey @Kurt The 3D Printer Guy, glad to see you took time out of your busy schedule to come say hi. Sorry your work life is keeping you away from your hobby, but you know what they say - The thing that keeps the printer printing is money. :)

Worry not about long replies. I believe there's a correlation between hobbies like Making and thirst for knowledge, and there's always a bigger chance to pack more information in a longer message. Plus it definitively takes longer to write than to read.

@TobyCWood, so far I have that impression, but of course it'd be fairer to have the hammer do the talking. :)

@Scott Hess, I think I'm going to look into more brands just because of the color options, but if I had to chose right now I'd go for the Polymaker.

[Ed Street]

Microcenter offers online sales and free shipping. This filament is very interesting. Although it is branded as 'inland,' two companies make it, I am told: eSun and Polymaker.   $16.99 / spool is a good price for ABS.   It also passes the acetone test, which is good and not good at the same time.

I have used a number of brands of ABS. Some will NOT pass the acetone test, and many will tell you it is NOT ABS if it fails the acetone test. That is incorrect, and here is why: coloring added may not pass the acetone test. The ratio of color to ABS can and will cause that test to fail very fast.

Believe it or not, Bambu also has some very good filament. They often have sales and big discounts. Catch those sales, and it drops by $8 per spool. They do not make their own but have a company like Polyform make it for them.  

So far I have seen no reason to use any of the + filaments at all.

MMU / tool changers for the Voron are plentiful. There is the project you can drop on the Bambu AMS to any Voron (okay, any printer using Klipper), and several clones are being worked on. ERCF v1 and v2 are at least four tool changer options that I have seen. As for the preference for MMU vs. tool changer, why can we not have both on one unit?

[trash....@gmail.com]

I printed my original voron 2.2 out of abs+ it was a huge mistake the A/B motor mounts cracked in about a week. I had a kid and 6 years later I'm just finishing up that build as a voron 2.4 :)

[Ciro Napolitano]

@Ed, please don't put ideas into my mind. The tool changer is plenty enough. 😏

@trash....@gmail.com got it, stay away from ABS+ and keep the latex close (iykwim).

[Ciro Napolitano]

Since we're here, I thought I'd show you the two parts printed at 220 on the left and 260 on the right.

I don't know if you can tell from the picture but the one on the right is significantly matter than the left one. 

I think my printer also doesn't like staying at 260 because I see some extrusion hiccups. Doesn't matter, all metal is on its way.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!]

Chris - you're Killing Me with this "...these get sanded and painted..." Deal! UGh...

If its ABS - why not Acetone Vapor Smooth them? FORGET Sanding and Crap like that!!! That's the Magic of ABS! You Vapor smooth them - and those kind of parts can look AMAZING!!! Look actually Injection Molded! IF you don't believe me - Say So - and I can show you some Amazing PROOF!

Just sayin'...

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!]

Ed - again, gotta say - that pic is WILD! What does ERCF stand for? The pic almost looks like CG - with all the colors - but, I see the details of the wall in the background - so I know its REAL. But, Really - there's an Odd quality to the pic. Would be great if you can show us another pic of your unit - or AFTER it is finished - as you stated - its kinda a WIP. Maybe show it with filament on it. Hell - make a NEW Thread and give us MORE Details - as I am SERIOUSLY Curious!!!!!

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!]

Scott - I think there's more to Klipper than you mentioned. 

There WAS a Video someone posted on this forum - showing the AMAZING Thing about Klipper and Vibrations or Resonance.  This is a Major Key to the Tech. And, maybe Ciro missed this...

Making something like a Bed-Slinger Move FAST is a bit of a BITCH! But, this is where Klipper can SHINE! The movements of the bed forwards and backwards - the point of calling it a Slinger - this is the problem. The whole bed moving forwards - an Object in Motion wants to Stay in Motion! Thus the problem. And, Klipper - properly implemented - looks to Cure the problem by calculating a bunch of the motion stuff! Calclulating overshoots - but, more like - sway of the bed, the machine, the motion - and, in the end - takes the calculations into effect - and tweaks motion paths to compensate for this. 

Now, I have heard - and, HELL - Someone correct me if ANYTHING I am saying here is wrong. But - some of these compensations also SMOOTH Out printing Details. So, it also makes things like Sharp corners not fully possible. Again - this is things I have been hearing about Klipper - and trying to keep it all arranged in my head! 

And, due to these smoothing out of corners - it makes it Essentially NOT Viable for more Engineering purposes. At least - that's what I seem to be hearing from some sources...

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!]

OMG - Scott - I have not heard of ANYONE Printing on Kapton tape for AGES!!!

Wow - what a Blast from the PAST! I used a good bit of Kapton tape on Assembly of my original MakerBot CupCake printer!

Folks - I believe a Material like Kapton tape was involved with the original Lunar Lander! (Well - Ah - AssUming we Actually Landed that Sucker on the Moon!).

But, yeah, after I started working with Kapton Tape on my CupCake - I then understood it's ability to handle HIGH HEAT!!! Which the Lunar Lander Supposedly Needed to Deal with...

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!]

Yo there Ciro - as for "... took time out of your busy schedule to come say hi. Sorry your work life is keeping you away from your hobby,.."

Busy indeed!!!

I was at work early today (like 10:30am) - Sat. & restarting a customer print job - BIG PARTS - printing in Copy Mode w/2 heads - parts taking like 14 hours to print - and I started up the Next set - gotta print total of 10 PAIRS of parts - each part is like around 225grams of CF-Nylon - and then back this evening to check on the parts I restarted this morning. So - Busy - Ugh - Ha ha ha...         Hell - I will be back tomorrow to check the parts printed good - then start up the Next set - so, by tomorrow morning - there will be 2 Sets of 10 Sets printed so far...

As for your Hobby Reference! Dang dude - think again...

I'm one of the 1st ones in this forum to Own a serious StrataSys 3DP - the Mojo - back in 2013. Listen to the Podcast Episode # 507 - to have a nice Chuckle over Andy talking about ME and my Mojo - in segment #2 in that podcast! I've been doing 3D Printing on the Desktop since 2011, Owned my Mojo since 2013 (and, its NO Longer a Hobby when the machine cost me a $10K Lease) - and I've now worked at FOUR different 3D Printint companies!!!

So Hobby? HA ha ha...

Nope - Way More than a Hobby...

-K the 3D Printer Guy! 

Alias the Bot-Guy

Alias the Dragon-Meister!  (See the pic:)

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!]

That's funny - since, for Some folks - their Printer IS Their Kid!!!

Yeah - I'm joking - but, kinda serious...

-K

[Graeme Hunter]

FUI - Esun ABS+ doesn't vapor smooth. Must be due to whatever they mean by +. (Is it the % styrene component that enables smoothing??). I've had it side by side in my smoothing chamber with Esun ABS. The ABS can turn to a puddle while the ABS+ is barely shiny.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!]

Hey Graeme - that's a BUMMER INDEED! It's also good to know - as I will stay away from that ESun Plus Variant! 

I know there was another PLUS version of ABS from another Mftr - which was mentioned on the forum years ago. 

ON a side note...

Joey of ToyBuilder Labs connected me with an ESun dude Years ago - maybe 2017. And, that person agreed to have me at the ESun booth at Inside 3DP Expo that year. I was actually showing off the Work-in-Progress of my 9 foot long Dragon. At the time, I had the Head and I think a couple feet/Legs - which I showed off. That was fun! The ESun guy actually gave me their version of a 3D Printing Pen - which was pretty cool that they would do that. I still have that Pen!

-K

[Ed Street]

Kurt,  ERCF is an Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder.  It is an MMU for almost any machine that runs Klipper. GitHub is here: https://github.com/Enraged-Rabbit-Community/ERCF_v2    It is not CGI by no means.  You can see more details on one of the rollout videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJCPerBsM3Q  . As for my build, I have some things I need to do with the tool head, like one or two sensors there and maybe canbus, I have not come to a decision on that just yet.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!]

Thanks Ed for the feedback on ERCF term. And, yeah, understood - your pic is not CG. 

-K