New Klipper install with Octoprint. No display after "Flashing" Ender 3 v2

[Dan Flemming]

I'm installing Klipper with Octoprint and Everything installed correctly.

UNTIL...

I used a 14.5 gb sd-card and copied klipper.bin onto it.

Of course I renamed it to 3v2firmware.bin.

Inserted it into the sd-slot but nothing ever happened, no screen, nothing at all.

No sure what is wrong.

Can anyone help?

Also I have upgraded my extruder to direct-drive (same extruder/stepper now on linear rail).

I did the e-step test.

I marked 10mm from the end of filament, then 100mm, then 20mm.

BUT THAT WON'T WORK, because I can't see the end of the filament where it goes into the hot-end.

So, I marked the top of the filament where it entered, with 10mm past the end of the drive-block, marked 100mm, and 20mm and used octoprint's control tab TOOL-E to "extrude" 100mm.

It moves 96mm.

(The M92 command isn't recognized in the terminal tab (or the other M5??, forgot command name), so I can get the value in the firmware.

I have Putty & Winscp, but don't know what to look for...

[Dan Flemming]

Don't get up!

Thanks for the help everyone!

Maybe someone will return your effort when you need it most.

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[Chris Collucci]

If it looks like nothing happened when you tried to load the new firmware, then I'm guessing that means its' the same name as the currently loaded firmware so it won't load it (because it has the same name).  Try giving it a different name and see what happens?

[Edward Simpson]

If it hasn't loaded the new firmware, try renaming the file to something simple like 'firmware.bin', most boot-loaders can't handle complex file-names or might be hard-coded to only look for one specific string?

[Dan Flemming]

I did rename it to firmware.bin

Apparently NOTHING happens when flashing the printer.

It did work, I'm up & running at 200 mm/s with max acceleration at 6000 mm/s.

This is totally awesome to watch!

In my tower test I was printing at 7000 mm/s and the print was so nice, I didn't have to chance anything.

2.6 seconds to make a layer on the tower at the top layers!

301 layers.

I'm glad I didn't quit!

But at times, I thought about it...

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[Dan Flemming]

I put my camera mount back on my printer and printed a small model.

Ringing galore!

Took it back off and it's fine.

I'll find another way to mount it, just NOT on the printer.

Strange how additional add on part effect the print.

[Kurt at VRFX]

Dan - I Beg to Differ - its NOT strange at all!

What you saw is why there is a difference between a Bowden vs. Direct Drive 3DP's! Its about the basics of the mechanics of these kinds of machines. Folks want things to move FAST. But, the Faster you go - if you have a Gantry with a good bit of weight on it - like your Extruder (which has both the feeder motor AND the heating unit) - the added weight causes a problem. Like the old term of momentum - and object in motion STAYS in Motion - unless acted upon by an outside force. So - when that print head is moving forwards - then you have a motion shift - like a move into the opposite direction - then print head WANTS to keep moving forwards - and it will cause a Slight bend in the gantry when this happens - and does a slight overshoot of the printing - which can be seen as blobs on print jobs at times.

So - printers were created with Bowden drives - to get the weight of the feeder motor OFF the gantry. Thus - reducing weight on the Gantry. But, that can also cause its own issues. Since, now - the filament is pushed from the back-end, into a tube up to the heating unit/nozzle. This makes things a little more complicated with regards to retraction. But, worse - it makes it more difficult to print flexible materials!

The other option some have done - is to use these Much Smaller & lighter feeder motors on the print head - I think the one is called Pancake - or something like that. So, it becomes almost a hybrid - reduced weight like a Bowden system - yet also functioning as a Direct Drive system.

Now - you DID put the camera on the Gantry. Right?? In your message - you were not clear - you just stated you "put my camera mount back on my printer and..." - but, you didn't say Where you put it on your printer. So - yes, my response makes a big ASSumption as to where you mounted it. But, since you stated the problem it caused - I suspect I am right about where you mounted it.

There is something else you may consider - which is a Different kind of camera - but, I suspect they are VERY Pricey! There was a post on the forum here a little ago - and some folks went Crazy over it - cause it was DAMN Cool. Myself -  I could NOT Really watch the videos for more than a couple seconds - as they would give me Motion Sickness very quickly. But, the deal was - it was a camera down by the nozzle tip - and the video is literally a close up view as its printing and see the flow of plastic out the nozzle. I suspect that in that case - its a special camera and VERY Small!

-K

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[Dan Flemming]

Yep it was on a 10" extension that slipped onto the x axis stepper, and is mounted on a ball/socket swivel system.

It mounted elsewhere, off the machine.

Also move the pi off it too.

It's strange, my 1st tower print came out perfect!

(Without camera & pi)

After I put the camera back on, it messed the tower up.

(Too much ringing)

3rd time I removed the camera and got a decent print to calculate with.

Now my pi quit booting and I'm dead in the water agian.

(No screen to print anything with).

Maybe those Sonic Pads aren't so bad one you go through all the bull-poop I've gone through...

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[LukeH]

In my experience, I’d a Raspberry Pi won’t boot, it is almost always a bad SD card. Sure, other things can go wrong, but not nearly as often as the SD card failing.

[Dan Flemming]

Yep,

Thought of that too!

Got another sd card, formatted it (it was already fat32, but did a quick anyway), copied the printer.bin to it but it still wouldn't give me the green light.

I had to find a Jyers .bin just to be able to use t by e printer agian (since klipper don't support the stock screen).

The way my luck's been running, I may get hit by a meteor!

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[Luke Hartfiel]

You don’t need a screen on the printer itself to run Klipper or RRF, since the entire interface is designed to used by connecting to the printer using any device with a web browser (such as your phone, tablet, laptop, or even the Raspberry Pi, if it has some sort of screen connected to that). That’s why most of these low resolution, monochrome LCD displays aren’t supported (like in an Ender 3). In fact, when I build a printer these days I don’t bother with a screen at all, since it is more convenient to use my phone because it is always with me, I can move it and control the printer from whatever side I am working from, and I can just carry it to another room and continue to monitor the print. 

I wouldn’t let that stop you using Klipper though. You can control basically everything Klipper can do through Octoprint or Mainsail.

On 17 Oct 2022, at 1:38 pm, Dan Flemming <newmi...@gmail.com> wrote:



[Dan Flemming]

Thanks Luke,

I was running klipper with Octoprint and finally got everything configured and was ready to start printing.

I unplugged everything and moved it back to my enclosure, but the pi quit working (red light only), and now I can't access the printer without a wifi interface.

I've re-flashed the pi a few times, re-built the sd card...

No luck.

I have an old 10" tablet, it's a shame I can't use it to interface the printer with it.

So,

I'm back to Jyers.

I even have a problem with Jyers.

It won't heat both bed and hot end at the same time.

I have to "tune" the hot end to the desired temp to get them both heating at the same time.

Looked in cura (expert mode) to see if there was a setting, but no.

[Dan Flemming]

I make a mistake in my explanation.

"Thought of that too!

Got another sd card, formatted it (it was already fat32, but did a quick anyway), copied the printer.bin to it but it still wouldn't give me the green light."

It wasn't "printer.bin", it was an image through the pi imager.

[Dan Flemming]

I'm currently installing octo4a on a tablet.

Hope this works.

[Dan Flemming]

It worked!

BUT,

After I got everything up and running (octoprint & server) I thought I could just use a recent backup (a backup after I got klipper installed & setup), to update octoprint to where it was before my pi failed.

Was working too,

Then disaster struck!

The lenovo (sorriest piece of junk ever), froze 3/4 through the backup.

Then when I tried to login, it wouldn't accept my name & pw!

Had to uninstall, then reinstall everything!

When the poop hits the fan, I'm going to get splattered!

[Luke Hartfiel]

Whenever I set up a Raspberry Pi device for anything (not just 3D printing stuff), once it is working, I shut everything down properly, then take the SD card and image it to a backup drive.

That way when there is a problem because the SD card fails, or a power outage causes bad files on the card, or I have a hardware failure, or (most likely) I try to “improve” the system by upgrading subsystems or adding features and break the whole thing, I can load the image to a fresh card and be back up and running in a few minutes with the last good configuration.



> On 18 Oct 2022, at 10:11 am, Dan Flemming <newmi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> 

[Dan Flemming]

Yep, good advice.

I even made a backup of octoprint before trying to "install the backup" that failed.

I have a backup of my .bin's too.

I know I'll finally get klipper back up and running, because I've already seen the huge benefit.