Starter replacement

[michael reichert]

Any tips for this? There was a thread many years ago about how difficult it is to replace the starter along with tips on how to minimize the difficulty. But it does not show up when I search the group for "starter". Now that I need to do it, I can see that the difficulty was not exaggerated

[Joel Sass]

The starter isn't so bad, if I recall. The alternator is not great, though.

Here's the removal per Mazda's manual:

This is definitely something that needs to be done from under the vehicle, and thankfully there's not much to it.

Any further questions, please feel free to ask.

-- Joel

On Sun, Aug 13, 2023 at 7:56 PM 'michael reichert' via 323gtx <323...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Any tips for this? There was a thread many years ago about how difficult it is to replace the starter along with tips on how to minimize the difficulty. But it does not show up when I search the group for "starter". Now that I need to do it, I can see that the difficulty was not exaggerated

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[Jason Culligan]

If I remember from doing it years ago, the difficulty lies in having to remove the diff lock motor to access the starter. There should also be an intake manifold brace that needs to come off. 

Jason Culligan

560 E Parkland Ave 

Evansville, IN 47711

812-319-2840

On Aug 14, 2023, at 6:23 AM, Joel Sass <sass...@gmail.com> wrote:



The starter isn't so bad, if I recall. The alternator is not great, though.

Here's the removal per Mazda's manual:

<image.png>

This is definitely something that needs to be done from under the vehicle, and thankfully there's not much to it.

Any further questions, please feel free to ask.

-- Joel

On Sun, Aug 13, 2023 at 7:56 PM 'michael reichert' via 323gtx <323...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Any tips for this? There was a thread many years ago about how difficult it is to replace the starter along with tips on how to minimize the difficulty. But it does not show up when I search the group for "starter". Now that I need to do it, I can see that the difficulty was not exaggerated

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[mfel...@gmail.com]

I echo Jason's comments.  IIRC, with those two pieces out, it is not terrible.

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[nowi...@yahoo.com]

And another point, at least is important to me, is that the cleaner the area the easier it is.  It also may help to remove the battery to get a better view of the transmission bolts and alignment? 

 

I have TWO of these to do soon.  One car intermittently clicks the solenoid, and after three or four cycles of clicking it finally turns the starter. Does anyone have a cure for that other than replacement?

 

Second car, the starter “overruns”, or you can hear the flywheel spinning the pinion for a second after the engine starts.

 

I have ONE new starter, now to decide which car gets the new one and which starter can be repaired.

 

Thoughts?

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[Mark Todd]

The clicking is caused by the ignition switch.

MT

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[Joel Sass]

I had the overrun issue, and the clicking issue at the same time. I ended up installing a remote start button. It turns out that the ignition switch had started to go bad. Fixed all my issues, and took less than two hours to get installed.

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[nowi...@yahoo.com]

Thanks for the information Joel.  Has anyone rebuilt or repaired the switch?  Can I assume it is the electrical part of the switch that is faulty?  Or perhaps the mechanical to electrical contacts such as in a window or mirror switch where the copper contacts corrode and need cleaning?

 

Would like to keep one of the cars stock.  The driver, perhaps a push switch makes it more sporty.

[Joel Sass]

I did not want to invest the amount of time it seemed would be required to fix this issue, and, sadly, am unsure about where to start looking in the ignition switch. 

Here's a look at the manual page:

You will need to disassemble the ignition assembly to get at the switch, and I am not sure what it looks like in there, because I didn't feel like disassembling my steering wheel. I'm presuming that there's some lubrication which needs to be done on the switch which will have it operating as normal. Just be sure to disassemble the tumbler and switch in a place where you are able to see everything clearly. There's a potential for springs to go flying, and it would be unfortunate to lose one.

-- Joel

[Bob Martin]

The electrical connection is screwed to the tumbler with a single Phillips screw. Easy to access with a stubby screwdriver. But, I never had any luck cleaning the contacts. They burn out and/or short out and that's that. I either replaced the pigtail when I has access to a spare or wired in a start switch.

Bob

Virus-free.www.avast.com

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[mfel...@gmail.com]

I had not googled, but wonder if they make generic tumblers in specific diameters. <<

One could try contact cleaner and switch cleaner, but sounds like Bob has attempted that route with no luck.  I know I had to swap to a push button as well.

Mark

Indy

[michael reichert]

Unbolted the three diff lock motor bolts. But I am unable to free the actuator rod from the diff lock motor. I have tried to twist the rod with a screw driver, but it will not budge even when jiggling the diff lock motor in all three axes. Any tips?

Mike R

[Daniel Roy]

Did you remove the lock bolt? Accessible from the top of the transmission. 

Dan

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[Joel Sass]

Here's the bolt that you are looking for:

That stops the lock shift rod from rotating. It must be removed before you can rotate the diff lock rod.

-- Joel

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[michael reichert]

Thanks everyone for the tips and support. Starter replacement finished and back on the road.