Updating a dec 2011 thing-o-matic

[Eric Palmer]

Hello all,

I bought a thing-o-matic in December of 2011. Used it for about a year and then life got in the way of fun.  I am in the process of unboxing it and setting it up. Last time I used it the y axis was not working. Hopefully an easy fix.

I'm wondering what the state of software is for the TOM?  I have a xp laptop that I can dedicate to the TOM and I have macs as well.  I want to design, print dimensionally accurate parts.  Mostly for my DIY projects. I've tried google sketchup an it's User Interface does not work for me.  

I'm looking for recommendations from the design, cad side (I did use openscad some and liked it for simple parts) all the way through the process including firmware on the TOM electronics.

Thanks in advance for your help.  

Eric

DaddyOh

[c f]

I can't offer much help on the CAD side, although you might check out Autodesk's 123Design software.

In regards to your machine, my similar vintage ToM works fine with makerbot's Makerware software once you've installed the latest Sailfish firmware on your machine (http://www.makerbot.com/sailfish/install/). I'm not sure if Makerware runs on XP, but it works fine on OS X and newer versions of windows. 

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[Eric Palmer]

Thanks for the fast reply. 

Sent from my iPhone

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[David Slater]

Hi Eric,

  I am in exactly the same boat.  I asked the same question and got no reply.  So I have decided not to mess with the software/firmware until I get the thing working well mechanically.  I expected to learn a lot along that path and so far I sure have.

  Apparently you need a LCD Interface to run with the newest software so I have displays from China and parts from Digikey coming my way.  In the mean time I have been making upgrade parts, searching the web for info and part numbers, leaning openscad and blender (ugh), and learning how to make printed circuit boards.

  So far I have added a support for the Yaxis Idler, freed up the Xaxis removing one set of bronze sleeve bearings replaced with 2 bearing follower, added X & Y Max endstops (kept hammering the belt), installed a mirror above the heated build platform for a build surface, tried several types of build surface tapes and currently using a light wash of ABS disolved in Acetone, extended the Zaxis bearings with o-ring buffered bearing holders (didnt see a any signifigant improvement), started printing and installing nut holders as I disassemble/reassemble the thing, noticed the filament stock I bought 3 years ago had absorbed moisture (tiny volcanos on sides of free flowing extruding filament, bought a large plastic container to hold the stock with some 100% silica cat litter in the bottom, and I redesigned the Xaxis idler to allow oil pads on the idler and axis rods.

  My thing was a birthday present from my Son and I really enjoyed building it and making trivial stuff.  It reminded me of my first exposure to a HP XY chart recorder which had awesome precision in my eyes. Even our thing slow speed build is amazing to a first time viewer.

  Usually equipment has a twisted attitude and will absolutely not work when you most need it.  My thing has been just the opposite and has come thru for me every time I needed it to.  First time a Stanley automatic door was broken at a motel I was living in.  I helped the maintenance guy figure it out and there was a small nylon wheel broken/worn at the bottom of the door.  I went up to my room and found a parametric wheel design on Thingaverse and in half an hour had a replacement built and installed. Several months ago I fired up my thing hoping I could make a special bracket catches for my Workmate Bench legs.  I started to use openscad to design them then thought I should do a google on it.  There they were and it did not take long to print them.  Same for a handle for a second older Workmate Bench.  Same for the dishwasher.... WOW

  So it seems you and I are 2-3 years behind the times mucking about in a cloud of dust raised by the high speed much much better sailfish crowd.  Thats OK we will catch up eventually and have fun learning along the way.  It is just a hobby.

  Hope this helps.  I am interested in what your doing and have learned.
73,

later, slater 

[Dan Newman]

> Apparently you need a LCD Interface to run with the newest software so I
> have displays from China and parts from Digikey coming my way.

I've not seen any Thing-o-Matic firmware which REQUIRED a Gen 4 LCD interface.
MBI's stock firmware (which ended at 3.1) does not require an LCD interface.
The Jetty Firmware (3.2 - 3.5) does not require an LCD interface. And
the Sailfish Firmware (4.0 - 4.6) does not require an LCD interface.
(Jetty Firmware was renamed to Sailfish.)

Dan

[Eric Palmer]

Dan, that is good to know.

David,

I will do the same and get the TOM mechanically solid and working before I upgrade software.  I built this with my 13 year old daughter and we used it solid for a year. But High School robotics got in the way (for both of us) and when it broke I just never got back to it. Also I did not have a good space for it. Been working on my work area and it now has a place for3D printing.

We had made several upgrades (levelers, etc) and will probably do more.  I do hope to build a printer with a larger (much larger) print volume. Maybe a reprap of some kind.  I also have laser cut acrylic sheets for the sides of the printer so that we can demo at Elementary and Middle School and reduce the ability of the kids to reach in. they need brackets printed and installed.

I also love the sound of 3DPrinters when they print. I was thinking of getting a frequency analyzer chip and using some high intensity RGB leds in the corners, to make a light show that responds to the print sound.

Probably crazy but seems fun.

Eric

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Eric Palmer

[David Slater]

Dan,  Thank you.

Eric,

  I keep a quadrill notebook to document my "experiments", even tape some "extrusions" on pages for later comparison.  Nice to go back and see for certain what I had done.

 Not sure why I did not say anything about the "music".  I have often thought about trying to figure out what motions create what sounds and doing Happy Birthday or something.  There is just too much other stuff to do.

  Also forgot to mention I had an internal extruder problem you might see, expecially since your bot is similar age.  First thing happened was the extrusion stopped mid print.  I disassembled the nozzle and tube to find a ring of "hardened/?burnt?" abs right at the nozzle just below the end of the teflon tube.  I cleaned it out and noticed the tube was slightly smaller diameter at the bottom in the heater block area. (3/4 inch).  Put it back together and later it hung up again during a build.  This time I found an acutal burnt piece inside the nozzle and the tip deformed ovally.

  I attirbute the burnt piece to being sucked in during a retract.  I had let the outside of the nozzle get dirty so the extrusion would stick to it easily.  My fix was to chuch the nozzle in my drill press and use various grades of wet or dry paper to polish the face to mirror finish.  Now I put a bit of high temp grease on the nozzle and have not extrusion stick.

  The ptfe tube was a puzzle.  I used a modified qtip to find the internal shape of the nozzle.  Chucked the tube into the drill press.  Filed it to same shape noting the exit hole was now round and centered.  Added a nylon spacer at the top to force the tube tight against the nozzle.  The tube measures .255 which is slightly under the tube diameter.  Could not find a source for the correct replacement (my google skills are poor) so ordered some oversized stock from McMaster Carr.  Will see how it goes.

  I think you said your thing was out of service.  Would be glad to print what you need and would be glad to help you troubleshoot it.

  It seems your familiar with kids abilities.  My 9 year old grandson lives in Singapore.  Do you think he is old enough to build a thing with my help via Skype?
73,

later, slater

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[Eric Palmer]

David,

I meant to mention before I see you signed your email with 73.

I'm a new ham (general) KK4MWM and just have a triband kenwood TH-F6 handheld.  Anyway, just wanted to acknowledge the 73.

Eric

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Eric Palmer

[MacGyver]

I've been using my Thing-O-Matic that came with the MK/7 extruder without an in interface the entire time.  In fact I never even bothered to buy the interface.  

For most of my designing I just use TinkerCad because I got a free account there a couple of years back.  It's great you can import models add to them then export them in .stl format ready to print most of the time.

[David Slater]

Hi MacGyver,  I will look into Tinkercad.  Thanks for the tip.  I have been most successfull with OpenScad and direct modification of the gcode files.  I need to do a lot of studying for Blender so will investigate Tinkercad.  Thats what I mainly do just Tinker.

Hi Eric,

  Congratulations on getting your ticket. I have not worked anyone with the MWM suffix yet but have worked KK4FUN, KK4GEE, & one qsl card exchange with KK4LSG.  Do you know about QSL.com?  Drop me a note at WA3...@Gmail.com
73

[Erwin Ried]

I have my 2011 TOM with an old jetty fw because it works really nice in resolution and everything :)

For the software, if you like 123D 2d plane style of creating models you will like autodesk inventor

[Nathaniel Swartz]

Tinkercad is really great, but also check out SketchUp.  It can't export to STL directly, but you can export to another 3d format then use netfabb basic to check the object for any errors and export it to STL.  

[James Grossman]

Resurrecting a dead thread since it is the closest I've found to my question...

I've been rebuilding/fixing my ToM after years of neglect - when I got it, the fancy LCD interface and MK7/8/whatever extruder had yet to be invented - has anyone had any luck in finding those parts these days? I've looked around ebay and the like without much success... I don't mind sourcing parts, but I'd rather not try to make my own pcb.

[MacGyver]

I've had my TOM for over 3 years now and have never had the LCD interface.  I've always just printed from RepG using USB because I couldn't ever get my SD Card to work right.  Now I've just switched to Simplify 3D and after some tweaking I'm getting better prints than ever again over USB alone.  If you decide to go the S3D route I have the start.gcode and end.gcode scripts to get you started.

Good Luck!

[Ethan Dicks]

I am running a 2010 ToM (Mk5) right now. I am also searching for a
viable solution for a replacement stepper printhead that can take 3mm
(there are a number of inexpensive solutions for 1.75mm but I have a
stock of 3mm on hand in many colors). I already have a spare stepper
driver. I just need to find/design an adapter plate for a RepRap
printhead (I think there may be one or more on Thingiverse) and make a
"modern" printhead to fit.

As for the interface, I built my own and handwired the board.
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:98460 It took several evenings.

-ethan