2005 Audi A6 electrical problem

[Simon Finnigan]

Hi everyone,
I've got a 2005 Audi A6, 2.0tTDI that is showing a weird electrical fault.
On starting the car and driving, after a fairly random period of time
between 0 and 15 minutes the car will throw up four warnings for faulty
bulbs. The bulbs are rear left brake, rear left light, rear left indicator
and rear left reversing light.

All the bulbs are ok and work fine before the errors come up, and start
again immediately if the ignition is turned off then on again. Including
(for example) the brake light coming back on as you turn the ignitin back
on if you leave your foot on the brake.

I've unplugged and reseated the connector to the light cluster, looked at
the light cluster which see,s to be in good condition and checked that when
the rear light goes, there are still two other bulbs working on the rear.

Anyone got any ideas on what this might be?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[Chris Whelan]

No direct experience, but the general rule of thumb with faults of this
type is to check all earth connections.

Undo any earth bolts or screws in the area, clean the metalwork back to
bright, then reconnect.

Googling suggests it's a very common fault. In some cases it's suggested
that the earth connection to the cluster is inadequate, and providing a
separate earth connection will cure it. Others have needed to replace the
cluster.

After that, I'm guessing this is a multiplexed car? As all the faults are
in one area, it could be a module fault. You may need specialist help, or
be prepared to fork out for parts to test with.

Chris

--
Remove prejudice to reply.

[Mrcheerful]

have you checked their operation with multiple bulbs on at the same time, as
it may be a poor earth which overloads with several bulbs on together. and
have you checked that the wattage of each bulb is correct (and of course
that they are the correct bulb for the hole)
Most lighting faults that I repair are user error, either wrong bulbs or
wrongly fitted.

[Simon Finnigan]

The bulbs are all (with one exception) those that came with the car two
years ago, and the fault only started a week or so ago. The fault also
happens without lights being used - turn the engine on on the drive way,
leave all lights turned off and it will still do the same thing. The
exception to the old bulbs is one that was changed about six months ago, so
seems unlikely to go for almost six months before demonstrating the fault.
Ive checked the bulbs are all as specified by Audi as well.

[Mrcheerful]

then all you can easily do will be to check and clean all the connections .
For what it would cost in bulbs (compared to getting an auto electrician to
look at it) it would be worth just replacing every bulb on that side with
new, just in case.

[tony sayer]

>then all you can easily do will be to check and clean all the connections .
>For what it would cost in bulbs (compared to getting an auto electrician to
>look at it) it would be worth just replacing every bulb on that side with
>new, just in case.
>
>

Is there an electric control module around somewhere?. On Audis I've had I've
sometimes run a soldering iron over the printed board where accessible and
thats often cured rather odd faults..

There are a few Audi forums around on the net .. a post there might help..
--
Tony Sayer

[Simon Finnigan]

There will be a module, but god only knows where. All that is easily
accessible at the rear is the light cluster itself and the plug/cable to
it. Nothing else is visible.

[Chris Bartram]

Do you have any water leaks/damp carpets?


The bulb detection is done by the Central Convenience or Central
Electrics module (convenience, I think). One some VAG cars these are in
a dubious position (the passenger footwell, for example), and they get
wet, and corrode. Passats and the first Skoda Superb suffer with that a lot.

If you can find someone with VCDS to scan it, that might reveal some info.

[Mrcheerful]

some VAG had the module directly below the windscreen, subsequent to
windscreen replacement it was ideally situated to get the possible resulting
leak.

[Rob]

Its a common fault for these vehicles where the earth wire in the
connecting plug is burnt out within the connector. Generally is caused
by a high current draw.

It faults on the dash because of the computer or on board power supply
module and has picked up a high resistance in the circuit.

You need to replace the bulb carrier the connector housing and the earth
wire terminal. LHS

Hope this helps.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <k05s1u$s1t$1...@dont-email.me>,

Chris Bartram <ne...@delete-me.piglet-net.net> wrote:
> The bulb detection is done by the Central Convenience or Central
> Electrics module (convenience, I think). One some VAG cars these are in
> a dubious position (the passenger footwell, for example), and they get
> wet, and corrode. Passats and the first Skoda Superb suffer with that a
> lot.

Why would they get wet in the passenger footwell? Unless the windscreen or
whatever is leaking? It's actually quite a good place for electronics -
better than under the bonnet where they get cooked.

--
*Stable Relationships Are For Horses. *

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1kopn42.1m7nza218lmw70N%itali...@gmail.com>, SteveH
<itali...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Dave Plowman (News) <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

> > In article <k05s1u$s1t$1...@dont-email.me>, Chris Bartram
> > <ne...@delete-me.piglet-net.net> wrote:
> > > The bulb detection is done by the Central Convenience or Central
> > > Electrics module (convenience, I think). One some VAG cars these are
> > > in a dubious position (the passenger footwell, for example), and
> > > they get wet, and corrode. Passats and the first Skoda Superb suffer
> > > with that a lot.
> > Why would they get wet in the passenger footwell? Unless the
> > windscreen or whatever is leaking? It's actually quite a good place
> > for electronics - better than under the bonnet where they get cooked.

> I believe it's usually due to leaves blocking a drainage duct under the
> bonnet - with a secondary cause being leaky door seals.

But unless mounted in a stupid position, wouldn't you notice your feet
getting wet before it reached the unit?

--
*In "Casablanca", Humphrey Bogart never said "Play it again, Sam" *

[Chris Whelan]

On Sun, 12 Aug 2012 11:00:21 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

[...]

> But unless mounted in a stupid position, wouldn't you notice your feet
> getting wet before it reached the unit?

If it's like the Passat, it's not really mounted, just literally laid on
the floor under the carpet. The carpet and underfelt are quite thick, and
time-consuming to remove. It is entirely possible for the under-carpet
area to be wet enough to damage the electronics, probably by the moist
air condensing on the PCB, without the upper surface of the carpet
feeling significantly wet.

[Chris Bartram]

On 12/08/12 11:00, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <1kopn42.1m7nza218lmw70N%itali...@gmail.com>, SteveH
> <itali...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Dave Plowman (News) <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>> In article <k05s1u$s1t$1...@dont-email.me>, Chris Bartram
>>> <ne...@delete-me.piglet-net.net> wrote:
>>>> The bulb detection is done by the Central Convenience or Central
>>>> Electrics module (convenience, I think). One some VAG cars these are
>>>> in a dubious position (the passenger footwell, for example), and
>>>> they get wet, and corrode. Passats and the first Skoda Superb suffer
>>>> with that a lot.
>>> Why would they get wet in the passenger footwell? Unless the
>>> windscreen or whatever is leaking? It's actually quite a good place
>>> for electronics - better than under the bonnet where they get cooked.
>
>> I believe it's usually due to leaves blocking a drainage duct under the
>> bonnet - with a secondary cause being leaky door seals.
>
> But unless mounted in a stupid position, wouldn't you notice your feet
> getting wet before it reached the unit?
>

No. It runs through the pollen filter, IIRC, down the bulkhead, and
soaks the insulation (and the CCU) first, rather than dripping on you
feet. The carpets get damp and the windows start to steam up all the time.

http://www.veedoubleu.com/?page_id=4

[Rob]

On 12/08/2012 1:00 AM, Chris Bartram wrote:
> On 11/08/12 12:46, Simon Finnigan wrote:
>> tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk> wrote:
>>>> then all you can easily do will be to check and clean all the
>>>> connections .
>

> The bulb detection is done by the Central Convenience or Central
> Electrics module (convenience, I think). One some VAG cars these are in
> a dubious position (the passenger footwell, for example), and they get
> wet, and corrode. Passats and the first Skoda Superb suffer with that a
> lot.
>
> If you can find someone with VCDS to scan it, that might reveal some info.

Thats correct - the unit detects that there is a high current draw.

But the problem has nothing to do with this unit or water or what ever.
Its only detecting a tail lamp high resistance and throwing it up on the
dash.

See my other post.

[Chris Bartram]

On 12/08/12 11:34, Rob wrote:
> On 12/08/2012 1:00 AM, Chris Bartram wrote:
>> On 11/08/12 12:46, Simon Finnigan wrote:
>>> tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk> wrote:
>>>>> then all you can easily do will be to check and clean all the
>>>>> connections .
>>
>> The bulb detection is done by the Central Convenience or Central
>> Electrics module (convenience, I think). One some VAG cars these are in
>> a dubious position (the passenger footwell, for example), and they get
>> wet, and corrode. Passats and the first Skoda Superb suffer with that a
>> lot.
>>
>> If you can find someone with VCDS to scan it, that might reveal some
>> info.
>
>
> Thats correct - the unit detects that there is a high current draw.
>

Low current draw, surely? High resistance, once the connector you
mention has failed and the lights pack in?

> But the problem has nothing to do with this unit or water or what ever.
> Its only detecting a tail lamp high resistance and throwing it up on the
> dash.
>
> See my other post.

Prsumably the connnector is a bit under-specced, gets hot, and fails?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <VCLVr.775348$PE.1...@fx04.am4>,

Ah - right. I was assuming it was mounted on the bulkhead above floor
level. Do they do other stupid things on this model?

--
*If you don't pay your exorcist you get repossessed.*

[Rob]

yep

[tony sayer]

In article <1kopqio.15mgm1i10x2a5hN%itali...@gmail.com>, SteveH
<itali...@gmail.com> scribeth thus

>Dave Plowman (News) <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
>

>> Ah - right. I was assuming it was mounted on the bulkhead above floor
>> level. Do they do other stupid things on this model?
>

>In theory it's a good place to put it - many cars have ECUs bolted to
>the floor under the seats.
>
>But it's not great when you get leaks.

On my A6 its in the passenger foot well and would have to have flooded
to get that area wet. And it looks well sealed anyway..


--
Tony Sayer

[Simon Finnigan]

Rob <mesa...@google.com> wrote:
> Its a common fault for these vehicles where the earth wire in the
> connecting plug is burnt out within the connector. Generally is caused by
> a high current draw.
>
> It faults on the dash because of the computer or on board power supply
> module and has picked up a high resistance in the circuit.
>
> You need to replace the bulb carrier the connector housing and the earth wire terminal. LHS
>
> Hope this helps.

Would this account for the bulbs working for up to 15 minutes before going
faulty?

[Simon Finnigan]

Managed to get it on VCDS, error is an intermittent short to earth IIRC
(the file isn't available to me at the moment).

[Simon Finnigan]

SteveH <itali...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Dave Plowman (News) <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
>

>> In article <k05s1u$s1t$1...@dont-email.me>,
>> Chris Bartram <ne...@delete-me.piglet-net.net> wrote:
>>> The bulb detection is done by the Central Convenience or Central
>>> Electrics module (convenience, I think). One some VAG cars these are in
>>> a dubious position (the passenger footwell, for example), and they get
>>> wet, and corrode. Passats and the first Skoda Superb suffer with that a
>>> lot.
>> Why would they get wet in the passenger footwell? Unless the windscreen or
>> whatever is leaking? It's actually quite a good place for electronics -
>> better than under the bonnet where they get cooked.
>

> I believe it's usually due to leaves blocking a drainage duct under the
> bonnet - with a secondary cause being leaky door seals.

I've had this problem before with a Passat, there are no leaks or damp
patches I can find anywhere.

[Rob]

On 13/08/2012 4:11 AM, Simon Finnigan wrote:
> Rob <mesa...@google.com> wrote:
>> Its a common fault for these vehicles where the earth wire in the
>> connecting plug is burnt out within the connector. Generally is caused by
>> a high current draw.
>>
>> It faults on the dash because of the computer or on board power supply
>> module and has picked up a high resistance in the circuit.
>>
>> You need to replace the bulb carrier the connector housing and the earth wire terminal. LHS
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>
> Would this account for the bulbs working for up to 15 minutes before going
> faulty?
>

Yep

[Simon Finnigan]

So the fix is a new bulb carrier (grey plastic unit with all the bulbs in
it), the connector housing (the plug that goes onto the carrier?) and is
the earth wire terminal on the carrier, connector or elsewhere?

Thanks!

[Rob]

Have you inspected where the problem is?

Just go to the dealer spare parts and ask them for the bits - tell them
whats happened and they should put you on the right path, if their worth
the salt.

I can't find a view on the web.

[Chris Whelan]

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 09:23:27 +0000, Simon Finnigan wrote:

[...]

> So the fix is a new bulb carrier (grey plastic unit with all the bulbs
> in it), the connector housing (the plug that goes onto the carrier?) and
> is the earth wire terminal on the carrier, connector or elsewhere?

If it was my money, I would temporarily wire in an extra earth,and try it
for a day or so.

Without know the construction of the cluster, it's difficult to be
specific, but most of them have some sort of "busbar" system carrying the
connections inside. If so, identify the earth one by inspection, and
clean a part of the bar. Wrap a suitable piece of wire around the bar,
and tighten a cable tie over the connection. Find a route for the wire to
something that bolts to the bodywork to connect the other end to.

If the problem is a poorly-designed earth arrangement, replacing the
cluster might only be a short-term fix. Certain BMW's have a similar
design fault, and I have effected a cure on two cars now along the lines
of what I have described.

[Simon Finnigan]

The bulb holder has a clear layout making it easy to identify the earth,
but it becomes a sealed unit before fitting to the car so I'd have to drill
a small hole through it, solder the wire onto the bus bar and then find
somewhere to earth it. There are no obvious earth points visible near the
light cluster so I'd have to create my own - remove paint, drill a hole and
then try to get a good connection to it. Tempting, but I'll also need to
put a plug in the Seth wire to allow me t disconnect it in the future, to
make changing bulbs easier.

[Chris Whelan]

On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 09:55:33 +0000, Simon Finnigan wrote:

[...]

> The bulb holder has a clear layout making it easy to identify the earth,
> but it becomes a sealed unit before fitting to the car so I'd have to
> drill a small hole through it, solder the wire onto the bus bar and then
> find somewhere to earth it. There are no obvious earth points visible
> near the light cluster so I'd have to create my own - remove paint,
> drill a hole and then try to get a good connection to it. Tempting, but
> I'll also need to put a plug in the Seth wire to allow me t disconnect
> it in the future, to make changing bulbs easier.

My thoughts were more on a temporary method to see if it's an earth
fault. With care, a reasonable 'Heath Robinson' setup will do that.

The alternative is the cost of a replacement cluster, which may not fix
the fault, or may develop the same fault in the future.

You won't need to solder a wire; just wrap it, then use a cable tie to
stop it moving. (One car I did this to was still OK after a year,
although I emphasised to the owner it was a temporary repair.)

Without knowing the exact physical layout, it should be possible to get
the wire out of the light unit without any drilling. (You only need
something like 1mm2 to improve the existing earth.) It won't matter if
the cable is squashed or trapped, after all! You don't need an earth
point close to the light; anywhere would do although inside the boot
would clearly be easiest. I would eat my hat if there isn't an existing
earth point somewhere in there!

[Simon Finnigan]

I've cleaned up a bit of black from the earth terminal, and the car hasn't
given the errors on a couple of short drives, so I'm fairly confident that
this is the issue. I'm just wondering whether the new bulb holder,
connector etc is the best solution - if it's an earth problem, unless the
new connector etc have been redesigned (the bulb holder is a year old, it
came with a new light cluster to replace a cracked one) the fault will come
back eventually. Providing a second earth completely independent of the
original, sometimes faulty one seems like a better long term solution.

Any opinions for and against?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <oXpWr.1549750$I_.10...@fx28.am4>,

Chris Whelan <cawh...@prejudicentlworld.com> wrote:
> My thoughts were more on a temporary method to see if it's an earth
> fault. With care, a reasonable 'Heath Robinson' setup will do that.

I'd connect a DVM between the cluster ground and a good car ground and see
what the voltage drop was first.

--
*Ever stop to think and forget to start again?

[Simon Finnigan]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

> In article <oXpWr.1549750$I_.10...@fx28.am4>,
> Chris Whelan <cawh...@prejudicentlworld.com> wrote:
>> My thoughts were more on a temporary method to see if it's an earth
>> fault. With care, a reasonable 'Heath Robinson' setup will do that.
>
> I'd connect a DVM between the cluster ground and a good car ground and see
> what the voltage drop was first.

On checking the connector today, there was a black mark on the earth
terminal. Cleaning it off with a screwdriver has apparently resolved the
problem, for now. Since its a known issue I want to try and ensure it
doesn't come back at a less convenient time, like during the MOT :-)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article
<792042802366644237.042345...@news.individual.net>,

Simon Finnigan <simonf...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> On checking the connector today, there was a black mark on the earth
> terminal. Cleaning it off with a screwdriver has apparently resolved the
> problem, for now.

A smear of Vaseline etc should slow it down corroding again - if it is
corrosion.

> Since its a known issue I want to try and ensure it
> doesn't come back at a less convenient time, like during the MOT :-)

Is a bulb failure warning on when all the bulbs work a failure?

--
*You are validating my inherent mistrust of strangers

[Chris Whelan]

On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 15:21:32 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

[...]

> Is a bulb failure warning on when all the bulbs work a failure?

AFAICT, the warning light system for bulb failure is not testable.

The OP implies that during fault conditions, the actual lights are not
working:

"All the bulbs are ok and work fine before the errors come up, and start
again immediately if the ignition is turned off then on again. Including
(for example) the brake light coming back on as you turn the ignitin back
on if you leave your foot on the brake."

which clearly would be a failure.

[Simon Finnigan]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

> In article
> <792042802366644237.042345...@news.individual.net>,
> Simon Finnigan <simonf...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> On checking the connector today, there was a black mark on the earth
>> terminal. Cleaning it off with a screwdriver has apparently resolved the
>> problem, for now.
>
> A smear of Vaseline etc should slow it down corroding again - if it is
> corrosion.

It looks more like the result of an electrical spark to me, but it's at a
difficult angle to view close up. I'd say there's a very good chance it's
the result of a bad connection.

>> Since its a known issue I want to try and ensure it
>> doesn't come back at a less convenient time, like during the MOT :-)
>
> Is a bulb failure warning on when all the bulbs work a failure?

The bulbs don't work when the failure warning comes on - when the warning
happens, the car stops using those lights until the ignition is turned off
then on again. The wonders of everything being electronic and intelligent
:-)

[Simon Finnigan]

If this happens when the bulbs are being tested. The lights may work for
10-15 minutes, then fail, so the bulbs may have been tested ok at this
point - would the car fail the MOT for something that failed after it was
tested, but before the final pass/fail was decided?

The message informing the driver about the bulb failure only appears when
the lights have stopped working.

[Simon Finnigan]

Simon Finnigan <simonf...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> I've got a 2005 Audi A6, 2.0tTDI that is showing a weird electrical fault.
> On starting the car and driving, after a fairly random period of time
> between 0 and 15 minutes the car will throw up four warnings for faulty
> bulbs. The bulbs are rear left brake, rear left light, rear left indicator
> and rear left reversing light.
>

> All the bulbs are ok and work fine before the errors come up, and start
> again immediately if the ignition is turned off then on again. Including
> (for example) the brake light coming back on as you turn the ignitin back
> on if you leave your foot on the brake.
>

> I've unplugged and reseated the connector to the light cluster, looked at
> the light cluster which see,s to be in good condition and checked that when
> the rear light goes, there are still two other bulbs working on the rear.
>
> Anyone got any ideas on what this might be?
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.

Further to this, bodging a temporary earth to the metal connectors inside
the bulb holder seems to have solved the problem.

Thanks all for the advice.

[swha...@googlemail.com]

Hi Simon

I have the same problem as you, but dont really understand what you meant by your fix? Would you mind letting me know a bit more detail so I can fix my lights too, photo would be perfect if not being too cheeky.

Thanks

Sam

[Scott M]

swha...@googlemail.com wrote:

> I have the same problem as you, but dont really understand
> what you meant by your fix? Would you mind letting me know
> a bit more detail so I can fix my lights too, photo would
> be perfect if not being too cheeky.

I doubt you'll get a reply two years on, but it's a common fault on cars
for the earth connection to a cluster to burn out as it has to take the
current from all of the bulbs at once. Pull the connector off the
cluster and it's usually obvious from the charring which one has overheated.

Bypass this by running chopping the wire off and extending it (or run a
fresh wire from the bodywork) to the relevant bit of the metal spider
inside of the cluster.

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

[Simon Finnigan]

I'm still here too :-)

This is pretty much it. Open up the light cluster and get a good connection
to the earth part of the metal links inside, then run that cable to a good
earth. I'm not really in a position to get photos at the moment sorry, but
I do remember that it was very clear from the connector which connection
was failing and was therefore the earth.

If you really need a photo, I could probably get one on Thursday - if you
need it, let me know by email ASAP, and send a reminder on Thursday morning
- got the memory if a sieve :-)

[swha...@googlemail.com]

Thanks Simon and Scott appreciated, got a rough idea what you mean now, will take a look tomorrow, nice one

[mitro...@gmail.com]

Sábado, 11 de Agosto de 2012 8:27:09 UTC+1, Simon Finnigan escreveu:
> Hi everyone,
>
> I've got a 2005 Audi A6, 2.0tTDI that is showing a weird electrical fault.
>
> On starting the car and driving, after a fairly random period of time
>
> between 0 and 15 minutes the car will throw up four warnings for faulty
>
> bulbs. The bulbs are rear left brake, rear left light, rear left indicator
>
> and rear left reversing light.
>
>
>
> All the bulbs are ok and work fine before the errors come up, and start
>
> again immediately if the ignition is turned off then on again. Including
>
> (for example) the brake light coming back on as you turn the ignitin back
>
> on if you leave your foot on the brake.
>
>
>
> I've unplugged and reseated the connector to the light cluster, looked at
>
> the light cluster which see,s to be in good condition and checked that when
>
> the rear light goes, there are still two other bulbs working on the rear.
>
>
>
> Anyone got any ideas on what this might be?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.

You could find an answer to your problem here:
http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?36617-Brake-Light-Failure-Indicator-shows-brake-bulb-fault-but-bulbs-are-ok/page2&s=a2f0d9f120d77a6ffdf43cb887d354f6

Ou here:
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t14501690-audi_a6_lh_rear_turn_signal_amp_brake
(it's the first answer)

It's a problem of moisture!

[Tim]

Pull up the carpets on driver and passenger sides and check for damp.




<mitro...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:416769d8-0c50-4f70...@googlegroups.com...

[Simon Finnigan]

<mitro...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Sábado, 11 de Agosto de 2012 8:27:09 UTC+1, Simon Finnigan escreveu:
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I've got a 2005 Audi A6, 2.0tTDI that is showing a weird electrical fault.
>>
>> On starting the car and driving, after a fairly random period of time
>>
>> between 0 and 15 minutes the car will throw up four warnings for faulty
>>
>> bulbs. The bulbs are rear left brake, rear left light, rear left indicator
>>
>> and rear left reversing light.
>>
>>
>>
>> All the bulbs are ok and work fine before the errors come up, and start
>>
>> again immediately if the ignition is turned off then on again. Including
>>
>> (for example) the brake light coming back on as you turn the ignitin back
>>
>> on if you leave your foot on the brake.
>>
>>
>>
>> I've unplugged and reseated the connector to the light cluster, looked at
>>
>> the light cluster which see,s to be in good condition and checked that when
>>
>> the rear light goes, there are still two other bulbs working on the rear.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone got any ideas on what this might be?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> You could find an answer to your problem here:

> http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?36617-Brake-Light-Failure-Indicator-shows-brake-bulb-fault-but-bulbs-are-ok/page2&s¢f0d9f120d77a6ffdf43cb887d354f6

>
> Ou here:
> http://www.fixya.com/cars/t14501690-audi_a6_lh_rear_turn_signal_amp_brake
> (it's the first answer)
>
> It's a problem of moisture!

Thanks fôr the reply, I worked it out eventually as an earth problem that
was fixed with a bit of DIY :-)

[drufitc...@gmail.com]

I took the unit out, I took of the bulb section and the outer shell i put in front of a blow dryer on low warm heat for 1hr. I sanded off the bulb connectors and then sprayed a little WD40 on the earth. I let it all dry. Wiped off the bulbs replaced them and put it all back in. I left it for an hour then I drove my car. Seems to be working without an issue. Dru

[Scott M]

Well, good for you.

But what the hell are you talking about?

[Simon Finnigan]

Fingers crossed that'll have it sorted then. Good luck!

[drufitc...@gmail.com]

It did solve the problem for a day or so but the light problem started again! I then changed the bulbs and now it's sorted. I looked at the old bulbs and they were corroded inside and although they would work intermittently that was the problem.