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lubrication for oven fan
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Bill Wright
Jan 2, 2013, 6:31:42 AM1/2/13
to
As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
Bill
Bill
Bob Minchin
Jan 2, 2013, 8:00:25 AM1/2/13
to
Bill Wright wrote:
> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>
> Bill
Ordinary light oil will do the job. Bearings are normally sintered
> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>
> Bill
bronze oilite types and you just want to get some fresh oil to soak in.
hth
Bob
Andrew Gabriel
Jan 2, 2013, 9:59:21 AM1/2/13
to
In article <kc15rc$vlf$1...@speranza.aioe.org>,
Sleeve bearings, I presume?
ISTR Geoff covering this a long time ago WRT boiler fans, and
that it needs a special oil which is soaked into the bearings
under special conditions (heat, vacuum, or something like that).
You might be able to find this post on Google.
However, I suspect that if the bearings have got to the point
of you noticing they need attention, they are probably only
temporarily repairable, in which case it probably doesn't
much matter what you use, but you'll want to clean off any
gunked up oil/dirt first.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Sleeve bearings, I presume?
ISTR Geoff covering this a long time ago WRT boiler fans, and
that it needs a special oil which is soaked into the bearings
under special conditions (heat, vacuum, or something like that).
You might be able to find this post on Google.
However, I suspect that if the bearings have got to the point
of you noticing they need attention, they are probably only
temporarily repairable, in which case it probably doesn't
much matter what you use, but you'll want to clean off any
gunked up oil/dirt first.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
The Natural Philosopher
Jan 2, 2013, 10:09:32 AM1/2/13
to
On 02/01/13 14:59, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
> In article <kc15rc$vlf$1...@speranza.aioe.org>,
> Bill Wright <bi...@invalid.com> writes:
>> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>
> Sleeve bearings, I presume?
>
> ISTR Geoff covering this a long time ago WRT boiler fans, and
> that it needs a special oil which is soaked into the bearings
> under special conditions (heat, vacuum, or something like that).
> You might be able to find this post on Google.
>
> However, I suspect that if the bearings have got to the point
> of you noticing they need attention, they are probably only
> temporarily repairable, in which case it probably doesn't
> much matter what you use, but you'll want to clean off any
> gunked up oil/dirt first.
>
Experience in model aircraft electric motors equipped with plain
> In article <kc15rc$vlf$1...@speranza.aioe.org>,
> Bill Wright <bi...@invalid.com> writes:
>> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>
> Sleeve bearings, I presume?
>
> ISTR Geoff covering this a long time ago WRT boiler fans, and
> that it needs a special oil which is soaked into the bearings
> under special conditions (heat, vacuum, or something like that).
> You might be able to find this post on Google.
>
> However, I suspect that if the bearings have got to the point
> of you noticing they need attention, they are probably only
> temporarily repairable, in which case it probably doesn't
> much matter what you use, but you'll want to clean off any
> gunked up oil/dirt first.
>
bronze/steel bearings suggests that light machine oil (3 in one) will
cure squeals, but if the bearing has run dry to the point of chattering
and destroyed the bronze, or its its a ball race that has seized,
bearing replacement or a new motor is the only solution.
In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
--
Ineptocracy
(in-ep-toc’-ra-cy) – a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.
Bill Wright
Jan 2, 2013, 10:17:22 AM1/2/13
to
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>
I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>
Bill
The Natural Philosopher
Jan 2, 2013, 10:55:25 AM1/2/13
to
up to 200C at most.
That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.
And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
a lot cooler than that.
> Bill
Gazz
Jan 2, 2013, 11:23:55 AM1/2/13
to
"The Natural Philosopher" <t...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
news:kc1l9d$q7n$2...@news.albasani.net...
My parents have just got a new built in oven, it has a feature that when
activated, locks the door and takes the temp upto 600 degrees C, burning off
all grease and crap,
They recently tried it, and said it works brilliantly, just a little bit of
ash on the bottom to sweep out afterwards.
Tho i imagine the fan used on that oven is either well out of the heat, or
uses an oil suitable for the high temps.
news:kc1l9d$q7n$2...@news.albasani.net...
> On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>
>>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>>
>> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>>
>
> ovens are really not that hot.
>
> up to 200C at most.
Some go higher.... but on a cleaning cycle,
>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>
>>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>>
>> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>>
>
> ovens are really not that hot.
>
> up to 200C at most.
My parents have just got a new built in oven, it has a feature that when
activated, locks the door and takes the temp upto 600 degrees C, burning off
all grease and crap,
They recently tried it, and said it works brilliantly, just a little bit of
ash on the bottom to sweep out afterwards.
Tho i imagine the fan used on that oven is either well out of the heat, or
uses an oil suitable for the high temps.
harry
Jan 2, 2013, 12:11:39 PM1/2/13
to
On Jan 2, 11:31 am, Bill Wright <b...@invalid.com> wrote:
> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>
> Bill
If a sintered bronze bearing has run dry,the micro holes on the
> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>
> Bill
bearing surface are "wiped over" and disappear.
This means lubricant held within the sintered metal is no longer
released on to the bearing surface. (Probably used up anyway.) If you
going to oil them, it therefore needs to be long before they run dry.
It wont get into the sintering as per it originally was even then.
So any oil/lubricant you add will only have a temporary effect anyway.
Andrew Gabriel
Jan 2, 2013, 12:14:09 PM1/2/13
to
In article <kc1mup$leq$1...@dont-email.me>,
"Gazz" <no...@m.ta> writes:
>
> Some go higher.... but on a cleaning cycle,
>
> My parents have just got a new built in oven, it has a feature that when
> activated, locks the door and takes the temp upto 600 degrees C, burning off
> all grease and crap,
>
> They recently tried it, and said it works brilliantly, just a little bit of
> ash on the bottom to sweep out afterwards.
There must be several other DIY uses for that... ;-)
>
> Some go higher.... but on a cleaning cycle,
>
> My parents have just got a new built in oven, it has a feature that when
> activated, locks the door and takes the temp upto 600 degrees C, burning off
> all grease and crap,
>
> They recently tried it, and said it works brilliantly, just a little bit of
> ash on the bottom to sweep out afterwards.
harry
Jan 2, 2013, 12:14:33 PM1/2/13
to
On Jan 2, 3:55 pm, The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid>
wrote:
device to stop heat transferring along the shaft
wrote:
> On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
>
> > The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>
> >> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>
> > I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>
> ovens are really not that hot.
>
> up to 200C at most.
>
> That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.
>
> And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
> a lot cooler than that.
>
The shaft on quality ovens fan motors is fitted with a thermal break
>
> > The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>
> >> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>
> > I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>
> ovens are really not that hot.
>
> up to 200C at most.
>
> That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.
>
> And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
> a lot cooler than that.
>
device to stop heat transferring along the shaft
Brian Gaff
Jan 2, 2013, 12:18:41 PM1/2/13
to
I think it tends to evaporate, not enough of it to actually do much, but I'd
have thought it should be non toxic at least.
I don't fancy Lamb with 3in1 sauce.
Brian
--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Bill Wright" <bi...@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:kc1j2f$2fk$2...@speranza.aioe.org...
have thought it should be non toxic at least.
I don't fancy Lamb with 3in1 sauce.
Brian
--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Bill Wright" <bi...@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:kc1j2f$2fk$2...@speranza.aioe.org...
Graham.
Jan 2, 2013, 3:27:54 PM1/2/13
to
On Wed, 2 Jan 2013 17:14:09 +0000 (UTC), and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>In article <kc1mup$leq$1...@dont-email.me>,
> "Gazz" <no...@m.ta> writes:
>>
>> Some go higher.... but on a cleaning cycle,
>>
>> My parents have just got a new built in oven, it has a feature that when
>> activated, locks the door and takes the temp upto 600 degrees C, burning off
>> all grease and crap,
>>
>> They recently tried it, and said it works brilliantly, just a little bit of
>> ash on the bottom to sweep out afterwards.
>
>There must be several other DIY uses for that... ;-)
Count me out. I've opted for burial.
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>In article <kc1mup$leq$1...@dont-email.me>,
> "Gazz" <no...@m.ta> writes:
>>
>> Some go higher.... but on a cleaning cycle,
>>
>> My parents have just got a new built in oven, it has a feature that when
>> activated, locks the door and takes the temp upto 600 degrees C, burning off
>> all grease and crap,
>>
>> They recently tried it, and said it works brilliantly, just a little bit of
>> ash on the bottom to sweep out afterwards.
>
>There must be several other DIY uses for that... ;-)
--
Graham.
%Profound_observation%
sm_jamieson
Jan 2, 2013, 5:24:39 PM1/2/13
to
On Wednesday, January 2, 2013 4:23:55 PM UTC, Gazz wrote:
> "The Natural Philosopher" <t...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
>
> news:kc1l9d$q7n$2...@news.albasani.net...
>
> > On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
>
> >> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>
> >>
>
> >>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>
> >>>
>
> >> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>
> >>
>
> >
>
> > ovens are really not that hot.
>
> >
>
> > up to 200C at most.
>
A "hot" oven is generally 250C. Both my ovens (built-in and combi) have max at 250C, but the built-in one also has a 275C setting for use with the catalytic cleaning mode.
> "The Natural Philosopher" <t...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
>
> news:kc1l9d$q7n$2...@news.albasani.net...
>
> > On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
>
> >> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>
> >>
>
> >>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>
> >>>
>
> >> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>
> >>
>
> >
>
> > ovens are really not that hot.
>
> >
>
> > up to 200C at most.
>
Simon.
Grimly Curmudgeon
Jan 3, 2013, 3:49:17 AM1/3/13
to
On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 15:17:22 +0000, Bill Wright <bi...@invalid.com>
wrote:
>I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
Best use whale oil, then.
wrote:
>I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
Clive Page
Jan 3, 2013, 4:26:50 AM1/3/13
to
On 02/01/2013 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
I've found it necessary to re-oil the fan motor in our oven every year
> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
or so for a good many years. No conflagration yet (but some odd smells
immediately after re-oiling). I don't think the fan gets as hot as the
interior of the oven.
--
Clive Page
geoff
Jan 3, 2013, 5:44:14 PM1/3/13
to
In message <kc1b1s$a0r$1...@dont-email.me>, Bob Minchin
<bob.minc...@YOURHATntlworld.com> writes
Depends on the type of bearing, doesn't it
depends on the fault
If it's ball races - once they're worn, they're knackered, you can lube
up , but worn is worn, you're only putting off the inevitable
If its sintered bearings, if the bearings are tight, lubing might work,
if they are worn - fucked and prolly the shaft with it
--
geoff
<bob.minc...@YOURHATntlworld.com> writes
depends on the fault
If it's ball races - once they're worn, they're knackered, you can lube
up , but worn is worn, you're only putting off the inevitable
If its sintered bearings, if the bearings are tight, lubing might work,
if they are worn - fucked and prolly the shaft with it
--
geoff
geoff
Jan 3, 2013, 5:45:08 PM1/3/13
to
In message <kc1i09$ipk$1...@dont-email.me>, Andrew Gabriel
<and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> writes
--
geoff
<and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> writes
>In article <kc15rc$vlf$1...@speranza.aioe.org>,
> Bill Wright <bi...@invalid.com> writes:
>> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>
>Sleeve bearings, I presume?
>
>ISTR Geoff covering this a long time ago WRT boiler fans, and
>that it needs a special oil which is soaked into the bearings
>under special conditions (heat, vacuum, or something like that).
>You might be able to find this post on Google.
>
>However, I suspect that if the bearings have got to the point
>of you noticing they need attention, they are probably only
>temporarily repairable, in which case it probably doesn't
>much matter what you use, but you'll want to clean off any
>gunked up oil/dirt first.
>
If the shaft is 6mm, we can generally repair them
> Bill Wright <bi...@invalid.com> writes:
>> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>
>Sleeve bearings, I presume?
>
>ISTR Geoff covering this a long time ago WRT boiler fans, and
>that it needs a special oil which is soaked into the bearings
>under special conditions (heat, vacuum, or something like that).
>You might be able to find this post on Google.
>
>However, I suspect that if the bearings have got to the point
>of you noticing they need attention, they are probably only
>temporarily repairable, in which case it probably doesn't
>much matter what you use, but you'll want to clean off any
>gunked up oil/dirt first.
>
--
geoff
geoff
Jan 3, 2013, 5:48:06 PM1/3/13
to
In message <kc1j2f$2fk$2...@speranza.aioe.org>, Bill Wright
<bi...@invalid.com> writes
its not pooling in the cooker
Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
temp. fix
--
geoff
<bi...@invalid.com> writes
>The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>
>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>
>I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
>
>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>
>I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
its not pooling in the cooker
Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
temp. fix
--
geoff
geoff
Jan 3, 2013, 5:50:25 PM1/3/13
to
In message
<2f84c328-605b-410f...@r14g2000vbe.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harry...@btinternet.com> writes
Really ?
and just when you were doing so well ...
--
geoff
<2f84c328-605b-410f...@r14g2000vbe.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harry...@btinternet.com> writes
and just when you were doing so well ...
--
geoff
geoff
Jan 3, 2013, 5:51:48 PM1/3/13
to
In message <2ghae8ta5slgficj6...@4ax.com>, Grimly
Curmudgeon <gri...@gmail.com> writes
What,. After the initial application of snake oil in the advertising
department?
--
geoff
Curmudgeon <gri...@gmail.com> writes
department?
--
geoff
geoff
Jan 3, 2013, 5:53:12 PM1/3/13
to
In message
<305701eb-99cb-4d8f...@r3g2000vbn.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harry...@btinternet.com> writes
--
geoff
<305701eb-99cb-4d8f...@r3g2000vbn.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harry...@btinternet.com> writes
>On Jan 2, 11:31�am, Bill Wright <b...@invalid.com> wrote:
>> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>>
>> Bill
>
>If a sintered bronze bearing has run dry,the micro holes on the
>bearing surface are "wiped over" and disappear.
>
>This means lubricant held within the sintered metal is no longer
>released on to the bearing surface. (Probably used up anyway.) If you
>going to oil them, it therefore needs to be long before they run dry.
>It wont get into the sintering as per it originally was even then.
>
Yes you were harry, you really were doing quite well before this post
>> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>>
>> Bill
>
>If a sintered bronze bearing has run dry,the micro holes on the
>bearing surface are "wiped over" and disappear.
>
>This means lubricant held within the sintered metal is no longer
>released on to the bearing surface. (Probably used up anyway.) If you
>going to oil them, it therefore needs to be long before they run dry.
>It wont get into the sintering as per it originally was even then.
>
--
geoff
Frank Erskine
Jan 3, 2013, 6:56:53 PM1/3/13
to
On Wed, 2 Jan 2013 09:14:33 -0800 (PST), harry
<harry...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>On Jan 2, 3:55 pm, The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid>
>wrote:
>> On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
>>
>> > The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>
>> >> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>
>> > I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>>
>> ovens are really not that hot.
>>
>> up to 200C at most.
>>
>> That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.
>>
>> And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
>> a lot cooler than that.
>>
>The shaft on quality ovens fan motors
High quality?
<harry...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>On Jan 2, 3:55 pm, The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid>
>wrote:
>> On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
>>
>> > The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>
>> >> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>
>> > I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>>
>> ovens are really not that hot.
>>
>> up to 200C at most.
>>
>> That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.
>>
>> And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
>> a lot cooler than that.
>>
>The shaft on quality ovens fan motors
Low quality?
E quality?
ITWSBT.
--
Frank Erskine
Frank Erskine
Jan 3, 2013, 7:10:41 PM1/3/13
to
On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 15:55:25 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
<t...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>
>>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>>
>> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>>
>
>ovens are really not that hot.
>
>up to 200C at most.
>
>That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.
>
>And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
>a lot cooler than that.
>
Don't the fans merely circulate the air? So the temperature will be
<t...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>On 02/01/13 15:17, Bill Wright wrote:
>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>
>>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>>
>> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>>
>
>ovens are really not that hot.
>
>up to 200C at most.
>
>That;s well below the flashpoint of most oils.
>
>And I am fairly sure that most fans blow IN not out. So they are running
>a lot cooler than that.
>
much the same whether sucking or blowing...
In fact, don't they have two fans - one to circulate the hot air and
another to cool the outer casing, which is of course the one that runs
on after you've turned the oven off?
I think I'd be considering graphite or PTFE for lubrication at these
sorts of temperature.
--
Frank Erskine
harry
Jan 4, 2013, 3:05:04 AM1/4/13
to
On Jan 3, 10:50 pm, geoff <tr...@uk-diy.org> wrote:
> In message
> <2f84c328-605b-410f-9b95-57669fa77...@r14g2000vbe.googlegroups.com>,
> harry <harry130...@btinternet.com> writes
Yes really. I used to repair them years ago.
> In message
> <2f84c328-605b-410f-9b95-57669fa77...@r14g2000vbe.googlegroups.com>,
> harry <harry130...@btinternet.com> writes
harry
Jan 4, 2013, 3:09:57 AM1/4/13
to
On Jan 4, 12:10 am, Frank Erskine <frank.ersk...@btinternet.com>
wrote:
The motor is not subjected to oven temperatures and neither are the
bearings, they wouldn't last two minutes and as I said, the motor
shafts on the better fan ovens have a thermal break to keep motor and
bearings cooler.
wrote:
bearings, they wouldn't last two minutes and as I said, the motor
shafts on the better fan ovens have a thermal break to keep motor and
bearings cooler.
The Natural Philosopher
Jan 4, 2013, 8:57:10 AM1/4/13
to
Ball races of a light variety will seize in grease.
You need a very light anit-corrosion protection or nothing muvjh at all
fora ball race.
Only stuff under big lateral forces needs any 'lubrication'
Anyway the result is the same: once ball races go, there is no way back
usually.,
harry
Jan 4, 2013, 12:01:15 PM1/4/13
to
On Jan 4, 1:57 pm, The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid>
wrote:
> On 03/01/13 22:48, geoff wrote:> In message <kc1j2f$2f...@speranza.aioe.org>, Bill Wright
> > <b...@invalid.com> writes
Well if you buy a new ball race, it will be packed in grease.
Ball races should not be subject to lateral forces unless they are
taper ball races.
wrote:
> On 03/01/13 22:48, geoff wrote:> In message <kc1j2f$2f...@speranza.aioe.org>, Bill Wright
> > <b...@invalid.com> writes
Ball races should not be subject to lateral forces unless they are
taper ball races.
Brian Gaff
Jan 4, 2013, 1:17:02 PM1/4/13
to
Yes look at the problems on the international space station with the race
ring of one of the solar array bearings and they only turn slowly, once
debris is allowed in there it just acts to grind away the surfaces.
Brian
--
From the Bed of Brian Gaff.
The email is valid as bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user.
"The Natural Philosopher" <t...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
news:kc6n3l$c47$1...@news.albasani.net...
ring of one of the solar array bearings and they only turn slowly, once
debris is allowed in there it just acts to grind away the surfaces.
Brian
--
From the Bed of Brian Gaff.
The email is valid as bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user.
"The Natural Philosopher" <t...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
news:kc6n3l$c47$1...@news.albasani.net...
> On 03/01/13 22:48, geoff wrote:
>> In message <kc1j2f$2fk$2...@speranza.aioe.org>, Bill Wright
>> <bi...@invalid.com> writes
>>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>>
>>>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>>>
>>> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>>
>>
>> In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
>> its not pooling in the cooker
>>
>> Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
>> temp. fix
> usual error.
>
> Ball races of a light variety will seize in grease.
>
> You need a very light anit-corrosion protection or nothing muvjh at all
> fora ball race.
>
> Only stuff under big lateral forces needs any 'lubrication'
>
> Anyway the result is the same: once ball races go, there is no way back
> usually.,
>
>
>
> --
> Ineptocracy
>
> (in-ep-toc'-ra-cy) - a system of government where the least capable to
>> In message <kc1j2f$2fk$2...@speranza.aioe.org>, Bill Wright
>> <bi...@invalid.com> writes
>>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>>
>>>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>>>
>>> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>>
>>
>> In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
>> its not pooling in the cooker
>>
>> Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
>> temp. fix
> usual error.
>
> Ball races of a light variety will seize in grease.
>
> You need a very light anit-corrosion protection or nothing muvjh at all
> fora ball race.
>
> Only stuff under big lateral forces needs any 'lubrication'
>
> Anyway the result is the same: once ball races go, there is no way back
> usually.,
>
>
>
> --
> Ineptocracy
>
The Natural Philosopher
Jan 4, 2013, 1:18:09 PM1/4/13
to
geoff
Jan 4, 2013, 4:42:20 PM1/4/13
to
In message
<68f26dce-a10f-445e...@j4g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harry...@btinternet.com> writes
You used to do all sorts of things years ago ...
Unfortunately, they world has moved on and left you behind.
I repair them now
--
geoff
<68f26dce-a10f-445e...@j4g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harry...@btinternet.com> writes
Unfortunately, they world has moved on and left you behind.
I repair them now
--
geoff
geoff
Jan 4, 2013, 4:48:25 PM1/4/13
to
In message <kc6n3l$c47$1...@news.albasani.net>, The Natural Philosopher
<t...@invalid.invalid> writes
drives, these are predominantly 626ZZ (or as I use VV), I buy a couple
of thousand at a time - they run in grease
>
>You need a very light anit-corrosion protection or nothing muvjh at all
>fora ball race.
You're out of your comfort zone there
>
>Only stuff under big lateral forces needs any 'lubrication'
>
>Anyway the result is the same: once ball races go, there is no way back
usually.,
>
You got it right there
--
geoff
<t...@invalid.invalid> writes
>On 03/01/13 22:48, geoff wrote:
>> In message <kc1j2f$2fk$2...@speranza.aioe.org>, Bill Wright
>> <bi...@invalid.com> writes
>>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>>
>>>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>>>
>>> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>>
>>
>> In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
>> its not pooling in the cooker
>>
>> Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
>> temp. fix
>usual error.
>
>Ball races of a light variety will seize in grease.
Burt we're not talking about miniature ones as found in e.g. hard
>> In message <kc1j2f$2fk$2...@speranza.aioe.org>, Bill Wright
>> <bi...@invalid.com> writes
>>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>>
>>>> In this case if light oil doesn't work replace the fan unit complete.
>>>>
>>> I was assuming that light oil would catch fire in an oven.
>>
>>
>> In the case of sintered bearings, its absorbed into the phosphor bronze,
>> its not pooling in the cooker
>>
>> Ball races don't run in oil, they run in grease. Oil will only give a
>> temp. fix
>usual error.
>
>Ball races of a light variety will seize in grease.
drives, these are predominantly 626ZZ (or as I use VV), I buy a couple
of thousand at a time - they run in grease
>
>You need a very light anit-corrosion protection or nothing muvjh at all
>fora ball race.
>
>Only stuff under big lateral forces needs any 'lubrication'
>
>Anyway the result is the same: once ball races go, there is no way back
usually.,
>
--
geoff
geoff
Jan 4, 2013, 4:49:26 PM1/4/13
to
In message <kc76d0$bh2$4...@news.albasani.net>, The Natural Philosopher
<t...@invalid.invalid> writes
So, shall we stick to the ones for the function in question then?
--
geoff
<t...@invalid.invalid> writes
--
geoff
harry
Jan 5, 2013, 1:39:25 AM1/5/13
to
> <68f26dce-a10f-445e-838c-98faa22ad...@j4g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
I moved on from that job.
The ones with thermal breaks didn't fail.
The ones with thermal breaks didn't fail.
Tim Lamb
Jan 5, 2013, 4:24:50 AM1/5/13
to
In message <kc76d0$bh2$4...@news.albasani.net>, The Natural Philosopher
<t...@invalid.invalid> writes
<t...@invalid.invalid> writes
>> Well if you buy a new ball race, it will be packed in grease.
>>
>> Ball races should not be subject to lateral forces unless they are
>> taper ball races.
>>
>that entirely depends on the ball race.
Try angular contact ones:-)
>>
>> Ball races should not be subject to lateral forces unless they are
>> taper ball races.
>>
>that entirely depends on the ball race.
I think bearings fitted with sideplates during manufacture would be
packed with grease. Taper rollers and bearings intended to be lubricated
by the user might just be oiled.
>
>
--
Tim Lamb
geoff
Jan 5, 2013, 9:02:01 AM1/5/13
to
In message
<8913c1d6-3b53-4e35...@r13g2000vbd.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harry...@btinternet.com> writes
As I said - the world has moved on
--
geoff
<8913c1d6-3b53-4e35...@r13g2000vbd.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harry...@btinternet.com> writes
>On Jan 4, 9:42�pm, geoff <tr...@uk-diy.org> wrote:
>> In message
>> <68f26dce-a10f-445e-838c-98faa22ad...@j4g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
>> harry <harry130...@btinternet.com> writes
>> In message
>> <68f26dce-a10f-445e-838c-98faa22ad...@j4g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
>> harry <harry130...@btinternet.com> writes
>> >> >The shaft on quality ovens fan motors is fitted with a thermal break
>> >> >device to stop heat transferring along the shaft
>>
>> >> Really ?
>>
>> >> and just when you were doing so well ...
>>
>> >> --
>> >> geoff
>>
>> >Yes really. I used to repair them years ago.
>>
>> You used to do all sorts of things years ago ...
>>
>> Unfortunately, they world has moved on and left you behind.
>>
>> � I repair them now
>>
>> --
>> geoff
>
>I moved on from that job.
>The ones with thermal breaks didn't fail.
Nobody would fit one now
>> >> >device to stop heat transferring along the shaft
>>
>> >> Really ?
>>
>> >> and just when you were doing so well ...
>>
>> >> --
>> >> geoff
>>
>> >Yes really. I used to repair them years ago.
>>
>> You used to do all sorts of things years ago ...
>>
>> Unfortunately, they world has moved on and left you behind.
>>
>> � I repair them now
>>
>> --
>> geoff
>
>I moved on from that job.
>The ones with thermal breaks didn't fail.
As I said - the world has moved on
--
geoff
notrub
May 6, 2016, 11:44:04 AM5/6/16
to
replying to Gazz, notrub wrote:
Lol @ 600 degrees C - you mean Fahrenheit! About 315 C
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/lubrication-for-oven-fan-862234-.htm
Lol @ 600 degrees C - you mean Fahrenheit! About 315 C
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/lubrication-for-oven-fan-862234-.htm
Fredxxx
May 6, 2016, 2:17:05 PM5/6/16
to
On 06/05/2016 16:44, notrub wrote:
> replying to Gazz, notrub wrote:
> Lol @ 600 degrees C - you mean Fahrenheit! About 315 C
Now that might have been funny 3 years ago, but not now?
> replying to Gazz, notrub wrote:
> Lol @ 600 degrees C - you mean Fahrenheit! About 315 C
harry
May 6, 2016, 3:50:05 PM5/6/16
to
On Wednesday, 2 January 2013 11:31:42 UTC, Bill Wright wrote:
> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>
> Bill
The problem is heat transmitted along the shaft.
> As per header. What's the best stuff to use?
>
> Bill
Some fans have a thermal break and normal lubricants can be used.
Other without the break, I have never found a long term successful lubricant.
Amazed the motor lasts as long as it does.
Fredxxx
May 7, 2016, 5:57:05 AM5/7/16
to
Perhaps Bill will be along shortly saying he's been through 2 ovens since!
JT
Jun 23, 2017, 12:44:04 PM6/23/17
to
replying to Gazz, JT wrote:
I think you meant degrees F. 600 degrees C would be over 1100 degrees F, way
too hot for built in oven.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/lubrication-for-oven-fan-862234-.htm
I think you meant degrees F. 600 degrees C would be over 1100 degrees F, way
too hot for built in oven.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/lubrication-for-oven-fan-862234-.htm
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