Help finding the ceiling joists.
Angel De Vicente
Hi all,
I'm sure this is a very basic question, but hey, I'm beginning with all
this DIY stuff.
I just bought one of these Edwardian Airers, which has pulleys to be
screwed to the ceiling joists (the instructions say the plaster won't be
strong enough).
The ceiling in my kitchen seems to be made of plasterbord (as far as I
can tell), and I tried to tap onto them to find the difference in sound
that would tell me where the joists are, but to my surprise I could not
tell any obvious difference. (Either the joists are not touching
directly the plasterboard, which I doubt, or my hearing abilities are
far worse that I thought).
Obviously I don't want to take down the plasterboard, so is there any
way to find where the joists are? (At least I know in which direction
they are running!).
Thanks,
--
---------------------------------------------------------------
- Angel de Vicente Garrido -
- Department of Artificial Intelligence. Edinburgh University -
- http://www.dai.ed.ac.uk/daidb/people/students/9605767.html -
---------------------------------------------------------------
Bernie Hayden
I'm no expert either, but a couple of things you could try (sorry about long
message):
1 How do you know which way the joists run? This must help you find the
position.
2 If the ceiling is plasterboard panels, the chances are that if you look
closely enough you'll see the joins. The joins would be directly under
joists as the edges of the boards would need to be fixed into the joists.
If you can't see any joins at all, it was either done by a real expert or
you've actually got lath and plaster.
3 You can get a fairly cheap battery operated 'detector' from B&Q etc, which
you pass across the ceiling and it will beep when it goes over a nail or
pipe. The one I've got makes a different beep when passing over electric
cables - worth knowing for obvious reasons! I think some of them detect
joists too.
4 If there's no difference in the knocking sound, are you sure you haven't
got a suspended ceiling, ie a 'false' one hanging down from an original
higher ceiling. If so it won't be strong enough for your airer.
5 Failing all else, can you lift a floorboard upstairs and take a look?
Bernie Hayden
Angel De Vicente wrote in message <359668...@dai.ed.ac.uk>...
Kim Carter
In article <359668...@dai.ed.ac.uk>,
Angel De Vicente <ang...@dai.ed.ac.uk> writes:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm sure this is a very basic question, but hey, I'm beginning with all
> this DIY stuff.
>
> I just bought one of these Edwardian Airers, which has pulleys to be
> screwed to the ceiling joists (the instructions say the plaster won't be
> strong enough).
>
> The ceiling in my kitchen seems to be made of plasterbord (as far as I
> can tell), and I tried to tap onto them to find the difference in sound
> that would tell me where the joists are, but to my surprise I could not
> tell any obvious difference. (Either the joists are not touching
> directly the plasterboard, which I doubt, or my hearing abilities are
> far worse that I thought).
>
3 suggestions -
1 - Go to the room above, lift floorboards and measure
2 - Use a joist/studding detector (available from eg B&Q and many other places)
3 - Use a metal/pipe detector (available as above) or a magnet to detect the
nails holding the plasterboard up
Kim
nightjar
Angel De Vicente <ang...@dai.ed.ac.uk> wrote in article
<359668...@dai.ed.ac.uk>...
>
> Obviously I don't want to take down the plasterboard, so is there any
> way to find where the joists are? (At least I know in which direction
> they are running!).
>
You can get stud and joist detector units at most DIY stores. They work
fine on plain plasterboard, but are less effective (or even totally
useless) on lath and plaster and plasterboard with thick decorative
finishes.
One way to find joists is with a piece of bent wire. An old wire coat
hanger is fine. You bend it into a U shape, but with a square base to the
U. The two legs should be about 9" long and of equal length. The base of
the U should be similar, but does not need to be exactly equal to the other
two. You drill a small hole in the plasterboard. If you hit wood, move over
about 6" and try again - you might be right on the edge of the joist. Pass
the bent wire up through the hole so that the one leg is above the ceiling,
the base passes through the hole, and the other leg lies under and parallel
to the ceiling and lies along the length of the joists. Now rotate the wire
slowly in the hole until the upper leg hits the side of a joist. You can
mark this position on the ceiling from the end of the other leg. You now
have one edge of one joist. You will usually find that the other joists are
spaced at 16" (400mm) centers and are about 2" (50mm) wide, so finding the
other joists should be easy.
Nightjar
Angel De Vicente
Hi,
Thanks for the replies so far. Some extra information and some queries:
1) The idea of lifting floorboards above is not possible. Mine is a top
flat in a flat roof building.
2) Are there any `multi-detectors' that will help me to detect joist,
cables, pipes, etc., instead of buying separate ones?
3) Bernie Hayden wrote:
>2 If the ceiling is plasterboard panels, the chances are that if you look
>closely enough you'll see the joins. The joins would be directly under
>joists as the edges of the boards would need to be fixed into the joists.
>If you can't see any joins at all, it was either done by a real expert or
>you've actually got lath and plaster.
That would be great, but a couple of weeks ago (when I didn't plan to
put the airer) I covered the ceiling with one of these polytirene veneer
(sorry the wrong? spelling), so now I see the edges of the veneer, but
not of the plasterboard :-(
>4 If there's no difference in the knocking sound, are you sure you haven't
>got a suspended ceiling, ie a 'false' one hanging down from an original
>higher ceiling. If so it won't be strong enough for your airer.
I must admit I'm not sure whether it is a suspended ceiling or not, but
I doubt it. There where no obvious T-joins or anything like that.
Besides, the kitchen guys put an extractor to the roof, and although I
did not look carefully, the distance to the roof (to the open world, I
mean) seemed fairly small (30-40 cm?).
4) Hugh Davies wrote:
>Do what I do. Drill 126 holes in the ceiling in a line across where a joist
>aught to be. :o(
I thought about that, but certainly doesn't look very appealing :-(
Although I may end doing it unless I find some other way!
Thanks again,
mil...@my-dejanews.com
In article <359668...@dai.ed.ac.uk>,
> Obviously I don't want to take down the plasterboard, so is there any
> way to find where the joists are? (At least I know in which direction
> they are running!).
Tried and trusted method:
go to outside wall that is running parallel to the joists.
first measure approx 3 inches from the wall, then measure
every 16 inches along ( perpendicular to joist dir) until
you come to the area you are interested in then stick a
bradawl through the plasterboard. Either it keeps going
or it hits wood. Theronin keep moving an inch along and try
again. Fill the small holes later on with polyfiller.
Just be gentle and it won't be too bad...
Jon
-----== Posted via Deja News, The Leader in Internet Discussion ==-----
http://www.dejanews.com/rg_mkgrp.xp Create Your Own Free Member Forum
Barren Fluffit.
Angel De Vicente wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Thanks for the replies so far. Some extra information and some queries:
>
> 1) The idea of lifting floorboards above is not possible. Mine is a top
> flat in a flat roof building.
Wimp. Flat roofing's not so tough ! :0)
>
> 2) Are there any `multi-detectors' that will help me to detect joist,
> cables, pipes, etc., instead of buying separate ones?
Yes but try to practise with it elsewhwere to get the sensitivity right.
>
> That would be great, but a couple of weeks ago (when I didn't plan to
> put the airer) I covered the ceiling with one of these polytirene veneer
> (sorry the wrong? spelling), so now I see the edges of the veneer, but
> not of the plasterboard :-(
And I guess it doesn't respond to filling that well either.
Is the light fitting screwed into a joist ?
>
Rick Hughes
bought one myself )
Then get the smallest drill bit .. 1/16 th or smaller, drill a hole ..
move 3" .. keep doing this till you find a joist.
A pain but I have had to use this method more than once, and 1/16 holes
are very easy to fill, and ceilings were being painted anyway.
Rick
Angel De Vicente wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm sure this is a very basic question, but hey, I'm beginning with all
> this DIY stuff.
>
> I just bought one of these Edwardian Airers, which has pulleys to be
> screwed to the ceiling joists (the instructions say the plaster won't be
> strong enough).
>
> The ceiling in my kitchen seems to be made of plasterbord (as far as I
> can tell), and I tried to tap onto them to find the difference in sound
> that would tell me where the joists are, but to my surprise I could not
> tell any obvious difference. (Either the joists are not touching
> directly the plasterboard, which I doubt, or my hearing abilities are
> far worse that I thought).
>
> Obviously I don't want to take down the plasterboard, so is there any
> way to find where the joists are? (At least I know in which direction
> they are running!).
>
> Thanks,
Mark Roberts
Go upstairs, lift carpet etc and look for nails in chipboard/floor
covering. Measure disance from wall and note which direction they're
going in; they'll follow the joist u c.
Go downstairs and measure from the wall and mark the ceiling.
With a bradawl push up through the plasterboard in 3 places 1" apart
either side of the mark (in a line at right angles to the joist
direction). At least one of the holes will be on the joist and from this
you can work out where the joist is and where its edges are (assuming a
2" joist).
This will stop you loading up the dryer with 25 pounds of wet clothes
and it crashes down because you screwed it into the last 2mm at the edge
of the joist :-)
Polyfilla the other holes.
--
Mark
David Pickles
When faced with this problem myself, my solution was to
marry a doctor and send her up a stepladder with her
stethescope. Highly effective, but some people might find
this course of action a little drastic...
David
In article <359668...@dai.ed.ac.uk>,
Angel De Vicente <ang...@dai.ed.ac.uk> wrote:
>
> Obviously I don't want to take down the plasterboard, so is there any
> way to find where the joists are? (At least I know in which direction
> they are running!).
-----== Posted via Deja News, The Leader in Internet Discussion ==-----
http://www.dejanews.com/ Now offering spam-free web-based newsreading
Mungo Henning
Further points:
1) Note that hitting wood is not sufficient (I agree with the
method that Rick gave, but...) Make sure that your fitting is in
the centre of the two-inch joist, not just clipping an edge of
it. (You've drilled six holes so far, another couple won't matter :-)
2) Be careful of mains cables clipped to the joist (someone may have
mentioned this already). Being equally guilty of ignoring this as
others may be, I must have a guardian angel looking over me who
deflected my cable-searching (using the steel tape measure approach)
for the light cable away from the nest of connections... gulp! :-o
Mungo
Ally McDonald
In article <6n81o6$sg5$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>,
no.spam.t...@bigfoot.com says...
>
> When faced with this problem myself, my solution was to
> marry a doctor and send her up a stepladder with her
> stethescope. Highly effective, but some people might find
> this course of action a little drastic...
>
--
Ally | Please do not duplicate usenet follow-ups by email.
| Check my address for Anti-Spam measures.
Nigel Orr- Delete no.uce. for non-commercial email replies- Sorry!
>Besides, the kitchen guys put an extractor to the roof, and although I
>did not look carefully, the distance to the roof (to the open world, I
>mean) seemed fairly small (30-40 cm?).
Is that in the same room? Couldn't you remove the extractor
temporarily and find the first joist along from it, then measure
along?
Nigel
Please Check AntiSpam for email replies...
Jeremy....@british-airways.com
In article <359668...@dai.ed.ac.uk>,
>
> I'm sure this is a very basic question, but hey, I'm beginning with all
> this DIY stuff.
>
> I just bought one of these Edwardian Airers, which has pulleys to be
> screwed to the ceiling joists (the instructions say the plaster won't be
> strong enough).
>
> The ceiling in my kitchen seems to be made of plasterbord (as far as I
> can tell), and I tried to tap onto them to find the difference in sound
> that would tell me where the joists are, but to my surprise I could not
> tell any obvious difference. (Either the joists are not touching
> directly the plasterboard, which I doubt, or my hearing abilities are
> far worse that I thought).
>
> way to find where the joists are? (At least I know in which direction
> they are running!).
>
> --
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> - Angel de Vicente Garrido -
> - Department of Artificial Intelligence. Edinburgh University -
> - http://www.dai.ed.ac.uk/daidb/people/students/9605767.html -
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
>
I found the easiest way is to use a sharp stiff piece of wire and poke
through the plasterboard. Obviously this can leave small holes if you're a
particularly bad guess-timator but these can easily be hidden with a bit of
filler or paint. I used a sharpened piece of coat hangar wire. I got lucky
second hit.
I suppose care should be taken not to go through a pipe or cable - be gentle!
-----== Posted via Deja News, The Leader in Internet Discussion ==-----
Joe Tozer
I've done this in the past by knocking long (50mm) panel pins throught
the ceiling at regular interval, until I've found a joist, the next
joist is then relatively easy to find. The panel pins leave pretty
unoticable holes which could easily be coved with paint if you're
feeling fussy.
In article <359668...@dai.ed.ac.uk>, Angel De Vicente
<ang...@dai.ed.ac.uk> writes
>Hi all,
>
>I'm sure this is a very basic question, but hey, I'm beginning with all
>this DIY stuff.
>
>I just bought one of these Edwardian Airers, which has pulleys to be
>screwed to the ceiling joists (the instructions say the plaster won't be
>strong enough).
>
>The ceiling in my kitchen seems to be made of plasterbord (as far as I
>can tell), and I tried to tap onto them to find the difference in sound
>that would tell me where the joists are, but to my surprise I could not
>tell any obvious difference. (Either the joists are not touching
>directly the plasterboard, which I doubt, or my hearing abilities are
>far worse that I thought).
>
>Obviously I don't want to take down the plasterboard, so is there any
>way to find where the joists are? (At least I know in which direction
>they are running!).
>
>Thanks,
--
Joe Tozer http://www.tozer.demon.co.uk
"Numbers will account for a great
deal of the sufferings of humanity" . . . . . Myles na Gopaleen
Frank Erskine
In article <6UyR3CA0...@martem.demon.co.uk>, Mark Roberts
<Ma...@martem.demon.co.uk> writes
>covering. Measure disance from wall and note which direction they're
>going in; they'll follow the joist u c.
>Go downstairs and measure from the wall and mark the ceiling.
>With a bradawl push up through the plasterboard in 3 places 1" apart
>either side of the mark (in a line at right angles to the joist
>direction). At least one of the holes will be on the joist and from this
>you can work out where the joist is and where its edges are (assuming a
>2" joist).
In my dentist's surgery, as you sit back in the chair staring at the
ceiling there are loads of holes obviously made with either a bradawl or
a 1/8" screwdriver, to find the correct position to fix his lamp!
--
Frank Erskine
Sunderland
http://www.g3wte.demon.co.uk/
Matthew Marks
In article <KsHurEAALsm1Ew$B...@g3wte.demon.co.uk>,
Frank Erskine <fr...@g3wte.demon.co.uk> writes:
>
> In my dentist's surgery, as you sit back in the chair staring at the
> ceiling there are loads of holes obviously made with either a bradawl or
> a 1/8" screwdriver, to find the correct position to fix his lamp!
...or bits of tooth hitting the ceiling at high velocity. :-) At my dental
surgery, I just notice the wonderful dry rot in the skirting boards.
--
Matthew @rd.bbc.co.uk My opinions, not Auntie's
Jon Rouse
Matthew Marks wrote:
>
> At my dental
> surgery, I just notice the wonderful dry rot in the skirting boards.
Either he's got the chair adjusted wrongly or he's tackling your piles
instead of your caries.
--
The views expressed are my own and may not represent those of my employer
Derek Uttley
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm sure this is a very basic question, but hey, I'm beginning with all
> > this DIY stuff.
> >
> > I just bought one of these Edwardian Airers, which has pulleys to be
> > screwed to the ceiling joists (the instructions say the plaster won't be
> > strong enough).
> >
> > The ceiling in my kitchen seems to be made of plasterbord (as far as I
> > can tell), and I tried to tap onto them to find the difference in sound
> > that would tell me where the joists are, but to my surprise I could not
> > tell any obvious difference. (Either the joists are not touching
> > directly the plasterboard, which I doubt, or my hearing abilities are
> > far worse that I thought).
> >
> > Obviously I don't want to take down the plasterboard, so is there any
> > way to find where the joists are? (At least I know in which direction
> > they are running!).
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --
> > - Angel de Vicente Garrido -
> > - Department of Artificial Intelligence. Edinburgh University -
> > - http://www.dai.ed.ac.uk/daidb/people/students/9605767.html -
> > ---------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
> I found the easiest way is to use a sharp stiff piece of wire and poke
> through the plasterboard. Obviously this can leave small holes if you're a
> particularly bad guess-timator but these can easily be hidden with a bit of
> filler or paint. I used a sharpened piece of coat hangar wire. I got lucky
> second hit.
>
> I suppose care should be taken not to go through a pipe or cable - be gentle!
>
> -----== Posted via Deja News, The Leader in Internet Discussion ==-----
> http://www.dejanews.com/rg_mkgrp.xp Create Your Own Free Member Forum
There is a little electronic device on the market called a stud locator. It
will work equally well, of course, for detecting joists in ceilings. They only
cost around $30 Canadian over here (approx £13) and are an excellent addition
to the tool box.
D.
Steve Barnes
Joe Tozer wrote:
>
> I've done this in the past by knocking long (50mm) panel pins throught
> the ceiling at regular interval, until I've found a joist, the next
> joist is then relatively easy to find. The panel pins leave pretty
> unoticable holes which could easily be coved with paint if you're
> feeling fussy.
>
I have one of those combination metal/electricity detectors. Cost
me less than a tenner in B&Q, and is sensitive enough to locate the
nails holding up the plasterboard.
Worth the investment!
--
Steve Barnes
Malcolm Austen
In article <KsHurEAALsm1Ew$B...@g3wte.demon.co.uk>,
Frank Erskine <fr...@g3wte.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>In my dentist's surgery, as you sit back in the chair staring at the
>ceiling there are loads of holes obviously made with either a bradawl or
>a 1/8" screwdriver, to find the correct position to fix his lamp!
HI! (de M0AEN)
I've (too) often thought that an essential requirement of a dentist's
ceiling is that is should have lots of interesting features to focus
the mind on!
regards,
Malcolm.
Jon Rouse
Derek Uttley wrote:
>
> There is a little electronic device on the market called a stud locator. It
> will work equally well, of course, for detecting joists in ceilings. They only
> cost around $30 Canadian over here (approx £13) and are an excellent addition
> to the tool box.
I've found mine totally useless on lath and plaster - I think old houses
have thicker plaster than the stuff these things were tested on.
John Laird
In article <359CF8...@it.postoffice.co.uk>, Jon Rouse <rou...@it.postoffice.co.uk> writes:
> Derek Uttley wrote:
>>
>> There is a little electronic device on the market called a stud locator. It
>> will work equally well, of course, for detecting joists in ceilings. They only
>> cost around $30 Canadian over here (approx £13) and are an excellent addition
>> to the tool box.
>
> I've found mine totally useless on lath and plaster - I think old houses
> have thicker plaster than the stuff these things were tested on.
That's disappointing, as I was about 50% sold on buying one for finding
the uprights in our lath-and-plaster walls. I'd hoped they would work
quite well as there are *lots* of nails holding the lath to the woodwork,
judging by the odd patches of wall I have stripped back.
--
John Laird (jo...@yrl.co.uk) "I have discovered a truly elegant sig,
Yezerski Roper Ltd sadly there is no room here to show it."
http://www.yrl.co.uk
Derek Uttley
These things don't rely on nails to detect joists or studs. I believe they
measure changes in material characteristics (permativity?) detected by the
electronics. I have never tried them on lath and plaster, just wallboard, on
which they are superb.
D.
David Pickles
dut...@newbridge.com wrote:
>
> John Laird wrote:
> >
> > In article <359CF8...@it.postoffice.co.uk>, Jon Rouse <rou...@it.postoffice.co.uk> writes:
> > > Derek Uttley wrote:
> > >>
> > >> There is a little electronic device on the market called a stud locator. It
> > >> will work equally well, of course, for detecting joists in ceilings. They only
> > >> cost around $30 Canadian over here (approx £13) and are an excellent addition
> > >> to the tool box.
> > >
> > > I've found mine totally useless on lath and plaster - I think old houses
> > > have thicker plaster than the stuff these things were tested on.
> >
> > That's disappointing, as I was about 50% sold on buying one for finding
> > the uprights in our lath-and-plaster walls. I'd hoped they would work
> > quite well as there are *lots* of nails holding the lath to the woodwork,
> > judging by the odd patches of wall I have stripped back.
> >
> These things don't rely on nails to detect joists or studs. I believe they
> measure changes in material characteristics (permativity?) detected by the
> electronics. I have never tried them on lath and plaster, just wallboard, on
> which they are superb.
Likewise, I have a comparable device which is intended to check for
the presence of metal objects (electric cable/pipework) beneath the surface
of plaster prior to drilling; when we moved to our last house - a Victorian
terrace - the thing turned out to be totally useless. This was because the
original plaster used consisted of 50% rusty nails and other assorted bits of
metal together with animal hair, old bits of crockery, glass etc...
David
-----== Posted via Deja News, The Leader in Internet Discussion ==-----
Andy Dingley
<rou...@it.postoffice.co.uk> wrote:
>I've found mine totally useless on lath and plaster -
I found it worked OK on _dry_ lath and plaster, but a slightly damp
ceiling confused it.
Jerry Fisher
Any make recomendations ?
Sorry if I missed it earlier.
Jerry.
david....@gmail.com
I've a similar problem... I tried the multiple drill hole technique and found what I thought was a joist, but it seems to be a really thin strip of metal running the length of the ceiling. Has anyone got any thoughts this as I can't find wood? Only these metal strips...
Cheers
Andy Burns
> I tried the multiple drill hole technique and found what I thought
> was a joist, but it seems to be a really thin strip of metal running
> the length of the ceiling. Has anyone got any thoughts this as I
> can't find wood? Only these metal strips...
noise reduction from the room above, e.g. the joists run E-W, then the
bars are run N-S from those, and the plasterboard screwed to the bars
instead of the joists.
<http://www.siginsulation.co.uk/show_prod.asp?ProdID=2809&CatID=21&SubCatID=86>
alan_m
property? If 50 +years old it is probably lath and plaster
https://photo.mybuilder.com/2_thumb/447262_4e98d3bf17.jpg
If lath and plaster the wooden strips (laths) will be nailed at each
joist so the nails can be found with a metal detector.
Although not the cheapest, I recommend a Zircon M40
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwmAME_Vw_E
That Youtube video also includes a demonstration about finding
the nails in lath and plaster
--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk
WeeBob
strips.
And if it's thin strips of metal, there probably are no actual joists
(in a suspended ceiling).
2p.
harry
> Hi all,
>
> I'm sure this is a very basic question, but hey, I'm beginning with all
> this DIY stuff.
>
> I just bought one of these Edwardian Airers, which has pulleys to be
> screwed to the ceiling joists (the instructions say the plaster won't be
> strong enough).
>
> The ceiling in my kitchen seems to be made of plasterbord (as far as I
> can tell), and I tried to tap onto them to find the difference in sound
> that would tell me where the joists are, but to my surprise I could not
> tell any obvious difference. (Either the joists are not touching
> directly the plasterboard, which I doubt, or my hearing abilities are
> far worse that I thought).
>
> Obviously I don't want to take down the plasterboard, so is there any
> way to find where the joists are? (At least I know in which direction
> they are running!).
>
> Thanks,
> --
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> - Angel de Vicente Garrido -
> - Department of Artificial Intelligence. Edinburgh University -
> - http://www.dai.ed.ac.uk/daidb/people/students/9605767.html -
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
Joists are at 16" centres normally.
Use a thin screwdriver and poke holes in the plasterboard ceiling until you find a joist. The small holes are easily filled.
harry
>
> Thanks for the replies so far. Some extra information and some queries:
>
> 1) The idea of lifting floorboards above is not possible. Mine is a top
> flat in a flat roof building.
>
> 2) Are there any `multi-detectors' that will help me to detect joist,
> cables, pipes, etc., instead of buying separate ones?
>
> 3) Bernie Hayden wrote:
>
> >2 If the ceiling is plasterboard panels, the chances are that if you look
> >closely enough you'll see the joins. The joins would be directly under
> >joists as the edges of the boards would need to be fixed into the joists.
> >If you can't see any joins at all, it was either done by a real expert or
> >you've actually got lath and plaster.
>
> That would be great, but a couple of weeks ago (when I didn't plan to
> put the airer) I covered the ceiling with one of these polytirene veneer
> (sorry the wrong? spelling), so now I see the edges of the veneer, but
> not of the plasterboard :-(
>
> >4 If there's no difference in the knocking sound, are you sure you haven't
> >got a suspended ceiling, ie a 'false' one hanging down from an original
> >higher ceiling. If so it won't be strong enough for your airer.
>
> I must admit I'm not sure whether it is a suspended ceiling or not, but
> I doubt it. There where no obvious T-joins or anything like that.
> did not look carefully, the distance to the roof (to the open world, I
> mean) seemed fairly small (30-40 cm?).
>
>
> >Do what I do. Drill 126 holes in the ceiling in a line across where a joist
> >aught to be. :o(
>
> I thought about that, but certainly doesn't look very appealing :-(
> Although I may end doing it unless I find some other way!
>
>
> Thanks again,
> --
You don't lift the floorboards, you look at the nails in the floorboards. The joists will be at right angles to the floorboards.
Brian Gaff
ceilings with metal strips between rectangular pieces of plasterboard or
similar and simply plaster over them to make it level. I call it a bodge
but there may well be wiring in the suspended part and its probably the
cheapest way, till that is you need to find something really solid to screw
to!
Brian
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DICEGEORGE
[g]
rick
house, you screw clips on each joist with an acoustic pad between clip &
joist. Then clip in tracks at 90 degrees to the joist - screw fixing
ceiling boards to the tracks.
Makes significant difference to sound transmission between floors.
Vir Campestris
> You don't lift the floorboards, you look at the nails in the floorboards. The joists will be at right angles to the floorboards.
are parallel or orthogonal to the visible ones.
I reckon the joists are about this much apart. Perhaps a cubit?
None of these rules are 100%.
Andy
The Natural Philosopher
> I reckon the joists are about this much apart.
--
Future generations will wonder in bemused amazement that the early
twenty-first century’s developed world went into hysterical panic over a
globally average temperature increase of a few tenths of a degree, and,
on the basis of gross exaggerations of highly uncertain computer
projections combined into implausible chains of inference, proceeded to
contemplate a rollback of the industrial age.
Richard Lindzen
Vir Campestris
> On 13/09/16 21:41, Vir Campestris wrote:
>> I reckon the joists are about this much apart.
>
> You are wrong. They are in fact that much apart.
>
>
complete with bark. (this was a peasant's cottage!)
Andy