Wiring a wireless thermostat
Golan
I am trying to replace and old mechanical thermostat with a new
wireless digital thermostat. At the moment the system is controlled by
Honeywell ST6400C Programmer,
The old thermostat is Honeywell T6360
http://europe.hbc.honeywell.com/products/pdf/en0r8281uk07r1204.pdf
The wiring to the old thermostat is
3=N
1=L
And one goes to the Earth
I am trying to replace the old thermostat with SALUS RT500RF
http://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/instructions/RT500%20RF%20MANUAL%203(1).pdf
The problem is that I can't understand the wiring diagram; also there
is no option to earth in the new thermostat
I tried to connect only the L and the N but the problem is even when
the thermostat suppose to stop the heating it is still keeping it on,
the light on the receiver goes off but the electrical connection is
not been disconnected
HELP .... :(
Thank you
John
"Golan" <go...@etzuvim.com> wrote in message
news:9f5cbf3c-c037-4652...@v4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
You should have a live, Neutral, switched feed and earth (3 cores and earth)
Have you checked to see what you have at the boiler end of the circuit?
Golan
> "Golan" <go...@etzuvim.com> wrote in message
>
> news:9f5cbf3c-c037-4652...@v4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > Good evening.
>
> > I am trying to replace and old mechanical thermostat with a new
> > wireless digital thermostat. At the moment the system is controlled by
> > Honeywell ST6400C Programmer,
>
> > The old thermostat is Honeywell T6360
>
> >http://europe.hbc.honeywell.com/products/pdf/en0r8281uk07r1204.pdf
>
> > The wiring to the old thermostat is
> > 3=N
> > 1=L
> > And one goes to the Earth
>
> > I am trying to replace the old thermostat with SALUS RT500RF
>
>
> > The problem is that I can't understand the wiring diagram; also there
> > is no option to earth in the new thermostat
>
> > I tried to connect only the L and the N but the problem is even when
> > the thermostat suppose to stop the heating it is still keeping it on,
> > the light on the receiver goes off but the electrical connection is
> > not been disconnected
>
> > HELP .... :(
>
> > Thank you
>
> You should have a live, Neutral, switched feed and earth (3 cores and earth)
>
> Have you checked to see what you have at the boiler end of the circuit?
I checked the wires from the thermostat to the programmer.
1 wire go to the N (CH on)
1 wire go to Live witch for some reason is connected to the wiring
center
1 earth
i have no idea where to start.
may be it is not the right thermostat for the system.
Heliotrope Smith
"Golan" <go...@etzuvim.com> wrote in message
news:9f5cbf3c-c037-4652...@v4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>
> I am trying to replace and old mechanical thermostat with a new
> wireless digital thermostat. At the moment the system is controlled by
> Honeywell ST6400C Programmer,
>
> The old thermostat is Honeywell T6360
>
> http://europe.hbc.honeywell.com/products/pdf/en0r8281uk07r1204.pdf
>
> The wiring to the old thermostat is
> 3=N
> 1=L
> And one goes to the Earth
There is no neutral on the old stat. Just live in and switched live out plus
earth.
>
> I am trying to replace the old thermostat with SALUS RT500RF
>
>
http://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/instructions/RT500%20RF%20MANUAL%203(1).pdf
>
>
> The problem is that I can't understand the wiring diagram; also there
> is no option to earth in the new thermostat
The new wireless stat does not need an earth as there is no mains going to
it. It is powered by batteries.
Mains power is required at the reciever only.
>
> I tried to connect only the L and the N but the problem is even when
> the thermostat suppose to stop the heating it is still keeping it on,
> the light on the receiver goes off but the electrical connection is
> not been disconnected
>
> HELP .... :(
>
> Thank you
What make/model boiler are you wiring up?
Golan
> "Golan" <go...@etzuvim.com> wrote in message
>
> news:9f5cbf3c-c037-4652...@v4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>
> > Good evening.
>
> > I am trying to replace and old mechanical thermostat with a new
> > wireless digital thermostat. At the moment the system is controlled by
> > Honeywell ST6400C Programmer,
>
> > The old thermostat is Honeywell T6360
>
> >http://europe.hbc.honeywell.com/products/pdf/en0r8281uk07r1204.pdf
>
> > The wiring to the old thermostat is
> > 3=N
> > 1=L
> > And one goes to the Earth
>
> There is no neutral on the old stat. Just live in and switched live out plus
> earth.
>
> > I am trying to replace the old thermostat with SALUS RT500RF
>
>
> > The problem is that I can't understand the wiring diagram; also there
> > is no option to earth in the new thermostat
>
> The new wireless stat does not need an earth as there is no mains going to
> it. It is powered by batteries.
> Mains power is required at the reciever only.
>
>
>
> > I tried to connect only the L and the N but the problem is even when
> > the thermostat suppose to stop the heating it is still keeping it on,
> > the light on the receiver goes off but the electrical connection is
> > not been disconnected
>
> > HELP .... :(
>
> > Thank you
>
> What make/model boiler are you wiring up?
The boiler is vaillant ecomax 612
Honeywell ST6400C Programmer
i dont think ican wire a wirless thermostat in the currect
configration. is there any digital thermostat that i can buy that will
work with just a N and L wires ?
John
neutral although you have a black wire.
Imagine a simple switch - it has a live and a switched feed. This is what I
think you need. If you were connecting live to neutral you would get a
short.
( although I think you need a neutral to make it work)
Golan
Can it be that the simple mechanical thermostat dose not have
neutral ?
in that case is a 2 wire digital thermostat will work ??
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp;jsessionid=KEQ3DYQRQGNNUCSTHZOSFFQ?id=39124&ts=43139
Heliotrope Smith
there is NO neutral . The (probably red) takes the live to the thermostat
(switch) and the (probably black) takes the live back to the boiler.
> in that case is a 2 wire digital thermostat will work ??
>
>
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp;jsessionid=KEQ3DYQRQGNNUCSTHZOSFFQ?id=39124&ts=43139
Ed Sirett
This subject comes up at least once a week (during the colder half of the
year). We need a FAQ or a wiki page on it. Some one must be able to to
write down something sensible.
Modern heating controls are double insulated and require no earthing,
having no metal casing or chassis. Sometimes there is a spare terminal to
park the unneeded earth wire on.
--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
John Rumm
> The old thermostat is Honeywell T6360
>
> http://europe.hbc.honeywell.com/products/pdf/en0r8281uk07r1204.pdf
>
> The wiring to the old thermostat is
> 3=N
> 1=L
> And one goes to the Earth
OK, reading between the lines here. It sounds like someone has used
ordinary two core and earth cable to hook up your old stat and has only
made use of some of its functionality. In reality I would guess you
*don't have any* neutral connected to the old stat.
The old style stats work better if there is a neutral present, however
they will still work without it.
Forget the colours of the wires: one will be a permanent live connected
to pin 1, and the output from pin 3 will be a switched live.
> I am trying to replace the old thermostat with SALUS RT500RF
>
> http://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/instructions/RT500%20RF%20MANUAL%203(1).pdf
>
>
> The problem is that I can't understand the wiring diagram; also there
> is no option to earth in the new thermostat
With the earth, cover it in earth sleeving, and fold it back on itself.
That way it is available if needed in the future. Its not needed now.
> I tried to connect only the L and the N but the problem is even when
> the thermostat suppose to stop the heating it is still keeping it on,
> the light on the receiver goes off but the electrical connection is
> not been disconnected
You probably connected your black wire to the pin identified as neutral
in the diagram thinking it is neutral.
Instead, look at the top 230V operation diagram in the manual, you want
to connect your red wire to the terminal marked L, and your black to the
one marked SL (On).
For completeness you should sleeve the black wire with red at both ends
to save further confusion. Both wire in the cable are live - one
permanent, one switched.
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
John Rumm
> This subject comes up at least once a week (during the colder half of the
> year). We need a FAQ or a wiki page on it. Some one must be able to to
> write down something sensible.
Sounds like a good plan...
Your wish is my command (well sometimes) ;-) :
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Thermostat_wiring
Now all we need is some content. I could shamelessly nick some diagrams
from that the PDF quoted above as a handy starting point.
Fancy adding any more relevant topics to the skeleton?
John
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:13jvbod...@corp.supernews.com...
Guys - in the instructions it clearly looks as though it needs a Neutral -
as it is a wireless one it requires power. The instruction states "The unit
still requires 230v feed for volt free operation." This implies 3 wires and
earth.
John
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:13jvbod...@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
>> The old thermostat is Honeywell T6360
>>
>> http://europe.hbc.honeywell.com/products/pdf/en0r8281uk07r1204.pdf
>>
>> The wiring to the old thermostat is
>> 3=N
>> 1=L
>> And one goes to the Earth
>
>
T4360 A does not have a neutral - the connection between the stat and the
"Heating Load" (the boiler) is the switched live - it is not neutral.
Please - look at the diagrams and get your terminology right
John Rumm
>>> The old thermostat is Honeywell T6360
>>>
>>> http://europe.hbc.honeywell.com/products/pdf/en0r8281uk07r1204.pdf
>>>
>>> The wiring to the old thermostat is
>>> 3=N
>>> 1=L
>>> And one goes to the Earth
>>
>
> T4360 A does not have a neutral - the connection between the stat and the
> "Heating Load" (the boiler) is the switched live - it is not neutral.
True, but we are talking about the T6360 which does have provision for a
neutral connection in the A and B variants. Only the 6360B seems to
actually have a use for it in that it has the heat anticipator
(according to the spec table)
> Please - look at the diagrams and get your terminology right
Indeed.
John Rumm
> Guys - in the instructions it clearly looks as though it needs a Neutral -
> as it is a wireless one it requires power. The instruction states "The unit
> still requires 230v feed for volt free operation." This implies 3 wires and
> earth.
Yup, it quite possibly does for the receiver (the transmitter has
battery power).
This is one of the occasions where it is actually harder to wire the
wireless version than would normally be the case for a wired version!
John
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
Sorry - I got the model numbers mixed. I got a bit carried away when I saw
the diagram without the accelerator.
Perhaps there is a case for ease of wiring for the receiver to be fitted
close to the boiler - provided it is within range of the transmitter.
I believe the OP has a live and a switched feed (in black) are we agreed?
And that the model also needs a neutral.
John Rumm
> Sorry - I got the model numbers mixed. I got a bit carried away when I saw
> the diagram without the accelerator.
>
> Perhaps there is a case for ease of wiring for the receiver to be fitted
> close to the boiler - provided it is within range of the transmitter.
>
> I believe the OP has a live and a switched feed (in black) are we agreed?
> And that the model also needs a neutral.
Yup, the original stat possibly has provision for a neutral, but it
looks like it has not been installed that way. The black wire sounds
like it is the switched live. (the original connections only make sense
for the A and B variants of the T6360).
The new stat's receiver will need a neutral (to allow the receiver to
draw power for itself). Assuming it is positioned close to the boiler
this could be connected via a length of multicore control flex, rather
than fixed wiring using 3&E. Alternatively the stat may currently be
connected to a wiring concentrator if it is being used to control the
boiler indirectly via a two or three port valve and possibly an external
"programmer".
Heliotrope Smith
"Golan" <go...@etzuvim.com> wrote in message
news:9f5cbf3c-c037-4652...@v4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
Set up the receiver close to the wiring centre.
Remove the wire link on the receiver.
From the wiring centre find the permanent live & neutral and connect to L &
N on receiver.
Trace the old stat wires in the wiring centre, disconnect and do away with
these and connect to COM and NO.
Should now be able to set up transmitter and get things working.