Finishing Room To-Do List

[George Gelly]

Several people have asked me what's left to do in the Finishing Room.  

As I've unfortunately had to start traveling, my time to work on the project has been severely limited.  As much as Rick Wiggins and Jon Alt have tried to keep things going, it's hard to do if you don't had a roadmap :-(.

So, here's a list of things (with notes) left to be done (or, so I think anyway).

Feel free to contact me on this group or directly (geo...@gelly.net) with questions.  

In the meantime, I would coordinate with Jon Alt (wood...@tcmaker.org) to get involved.

1. Finish interior exhaust stack [skill: ducting metal work and installation]
1. Adding top 2’ piece with s-brackets and drive cleats… may also require some surgery on the ends of the rectangular ducting that’s already been cut
2. Mounting the stack to “slot” in the wall using 90-degree brackets (remove the “1st try” wood panels)
3. Add a 8” start-collar that is “lined up” with the exit duct to the top of the stack and cut/crimp, screw, and tape a “bridge” piece of 8” duct to make the connection.
2. Finish Exterior exhaust stack [skill: ducting metal work and installation, masonry drilling, sheet metalwork]
   
1. using the pre-cut piece of corrugated tin (on top of the finishing room) and cut a hole that matches the 8” exhaust hole in the outside window.  Silicone the top edge of the panel and screw (with 1-5/8” torx screws) the panel to the marine plywood covering the window (likely will require 6-8 screws… so not a lot of screws).
2. using the 8” tee (and potentially a small “bridge” piece of 8” ducting) to have the tee going vertically. Add chicken wire to the bottom (with screws and tape… or perhaps a piece of 8” ducting that hasn’t been “clicked together”… so it’s an open “c”).  Add the 5’ piece of 8” ducting to the top, put chicken wire over the high side and put the “cone cap” on top of that.  Will also require some kind of stabilization rod attached to the masonry near the top of the vent as it will likely not be able to stand on it’s own.
3. Finish interior intake stack [skill: ducting metal work and installation]
   
1. Have ordered a 12” round to 8”x14” adaptor.  Will need to adapt this to the 8”x20” rectangular and also will likely need a small bridge piece of 12” ducting cut/crimped, screwed and taped.
2. Will need to strap, screw, and tape the 6th exit vent next to the 12” entry.
3. Using 90-degree brackets, attach a defuser panel to each of the 6 ceiling exit vents.  This may also require using foam tape on the defusers to get a good seal on the thin sheet metal on the “boot”.
4. Complete Power Wiring [skill: 115v house wiring, custom switchbox]
1. Need to run a 2nd SOO wire cable (whick we have) from the 2nd breaker in the power panel (next to the classroom door) to the “on/off” switch’s 2nd power input.
2. We need to construct a covered box (which I have the parts for) that has a spot for 4 “toggle” switches (that I also have) and a spot for the speed adjustment “pot” that controls the exit fan
3. Run a set of thermostat wire (which I have) long enough to get from the exhaust fan to the existing on/off switch to replace the short, existing power and adjustment wires running to the exhaust fan (both the power and speed adjustment wire pairs can be combined into one length of thermostat wire… as there are enough conductors for that).  This will allow the speed adjustment “pot” to be moved into the covered box in #2, above.
4. Rewire direct SOO wire connectors from the current on/of circuit through 3 of the toggles in the box and then to the intake fan, the interior lights, and the “blue flashing” light junction boxes on the top of the room.
5. Run another SOO wire from the new 2nd circuit to a NEW weather proof box (with we have) to connect the exhaust fan and speed power controller (the fan is directly wired inside the box, the speed controller plugs into a jack inside the weatherproof case).
6. Will need to label the switch box (i.e. “exhaust speed control”, “exhaust power”, “intake power”, “lights”, and “TARDIS”).
5. Get the sink in-place and get the water/drains hooked up [skill: plumbing]
6. Need a spigot from the water supply [skill: plumbing]
1. Install from the sink to run outside the room and be in place on the small wall panel between the Finishing Room and the Machine Shop.
7. Install Manometer (pressure differential) gauge [skill: general instrument installation]
1. We already have this gauge
8. Steel transition plate made and installed for the entrance door floor jam [skill: measuring, metalwork sourcing, installation]
9. Paint the exterior of the room (in the front side) [skill: oil-based painting]
1. paint in the box on top of the yellow paint cabinet
2. There is an oil-based primer that would go on first
3. Use “TARDIS blue” for the rest

[Jonathan Alt]

Here is a link to the document I will be using to keep track of these items.

I am in need of someone that knows electrical!  If you even have just an hour to knock out one of the electrical tasks...it would be appreciated if you could contact me!

Thank you


https://www.dropbox.com/s/j4pxwzidhubs1pp/Finishing%20The%20Finishing%20Room.xlsx?dl=0

[Jonathan Alt]

If you have experience with installing instrumentation - let us know.  We'd like to install a Manometer in the room - (I'm sure if you have low voltage experience and don't mind reading a manual - you could do this!) Thanks