bicycle frame thread repair recommendations

[Henry Braun]

I need to repair an ovalized M10x1.0 hole on my girlfriend's bicycle -- it's the part of the rear dropout where the derailleur screws on.  Basically I think there are 3 options:

1) Time-sert. this would be my preference and it sounds like it would result in a basically good-as-new repair.  Unfortunately it needs a special insertion tool and the kit costs $100.  Are there any machine shops or similar nearby that could do it for cheaper?

2) Helicoil.  I didn't want to go this route because there aren't many threads in the hole and I'm worried it would come out.  However, the tooling is much cheaper.  I think the Helicoil and time-sert use the same size taps.  Is starting with a helicoil and moving to time-sert if it pulls out an option?

3) Wheels MFG dropout saver. This is basically a special T-nut that holds the derailleur from the back.  It would be extremely easy, since you only need to drill one hole. However, it's a 1/16" larger diameter hole than the alternatives so there would be no going back. Also, some people on the internet have said the back of the t-nut interferes and prevents them from using their smallest cog.  This is my least preferred option for the time being.

What would you do in my situation?

[Jer Davis]

You might want to check with the guy at Peacock Cycles. They're nearby the shop and I think I've seen that he does some frame repairs now and then. He might have some better ideas and can help make sure the hanger is aligned properly when it's all said and done. 

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "tcmaker" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to tcmaker+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[Daniel Feldman]

The Hub did a very similar repair on my bike, using helicoil. Only charged $10 too. 

Daniel

[Henry Braun]

An update, for posterity: 

Somebody (Nate was his name, I think?) at TCMaker was kind enough to refill in the hole with MIG welding. From there I re-drilled and re-tapped it. Good as new!