Alliance U100 antenna rotor
klem kedidelhopper
I used to install the Alliance U100 rotors for all my antenna jobs.
These rotors had 4 terminals that connected to the control box. I just
came across an Alliance rotor that looks just like a U100 however it
has 5 terminals instead of 4. I have never seen this model of Alliance
rotor before. Does anyone know what the purpose of the fifth terminal
was for and if there is any way that this rotor could be used with a
standard U100 four terminal control box? Someone else suggested that
the fifth terminal was for a similar system as the U100 but it was
solid state. If so, was the solid state circuitry in the box or the
rotor? Because as I remember from disassembling and repairing some of
those, inside the rotor were just motor windings and a stop switch, I
wonder if in fact the electronics was all in the box and the fifth
terminal was just something to do with the solid state "improvement"
to the system, one could possibly ignore the fifth terminal and just
use a standard U100 ratchet type box? Lenny
Jerry Peters
the solenoid in the control box & advances the dial by 1 detent.
Jerry
Dave M
Your 5-terminal rotator unit is likely model C-225. It's definitely a solid
state control box, and can't be modified to control a U-100 rotor. The
rotors are different inside; the U-100 rotor having a reversing capacitor
and the motor, the C-225 having the motor and a position-sensing
potentiometer.
Go to http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/alliance/rotorservice and download the
Alliance Antenna Rotor Service Manual and you'll be able to see the details
of both models, and why they aren't compatible.
--
David
dgminala at mediacombb dot net
klem kedidelhopper
> of both models, and why they aren't compatible.
>
> --
> David
> dgminala at mediacombb dot net
so many different types of rotors. In every new antenna installation I
ever did I always used a U100. The funny thing is in all these years
of mixing and matching old four terminal stuff I either picked up or
had lying around I never had a problem getting a box/control combo to
work. But after looking at the schematics I guess I've been extremely
lucky. It's truly a shame they went out of business, They had the best
product for TV in the industry. I never had to climb up on someone's
roof even years later to replace a defective Alliance rotor. The
current Chinese Channel Master is a real POS. I wouldn't even install
one for a customer. Lenny
Michael A. Terrell
I had to, quite a few times to replace the soft seal on rotors that
were 25+ years old. I would pull the rotor, replace the old screws with
stainless, clean and relube the bearings. If it had the open pot to
drive a meter for position I would clean the resistance wire & sliding
contact, and use GC Tunerlube on the wire. Add a new non polar
electrolytic to the control box & replace the old wire between them, and
they would run another 25 years. :)
Some I serviced were so old that they simply had a lamp to tell you
that the rotor was at the end of it's rotation.
--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
klem kedidelhopper
wrote:
an apartment house near where we lived in The Bronx. A friend who was
a Ham radio operator gave me an old control box to operate it. The
control box put out the correct voltage to operate the motor but the
system had no position indication. I believe they were mismatched.
This motor had a stop switch and a small aluminum "chock" that would
jam the motor if it tried to go further than 360 degrees. I removed
the chock feeling that it was an unhealthy thing to do and installed
an indicator light circuit wired to the stop switch contacts in the
motor. The light would come on as you approached 360 degrees from
either direction. I'm 65 years old and am still using that rotor/box
combination. Can't say enough about Alliance equipment. Lenny
Michael A. Terrell
klem kedidelhopper wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > I had to, quite a few times to replace the soft seal on rotors that
> > were 25+ years old. I would pull the rotor, replace the old screws with
> > stainless, clean and relube the bearings. If it had the open pot to
> > drive a meter for position I would clean the resistance wire & sliding
> > contact, and use GC Tunerlube on the wire. Add a new non polar
> > electrolytic to the control box & replace the old wire between them, and
> > they would run another 25 years. :)
> >
> > Some I serviced were so old that they simply had a lamp to tell you
> > that the rotor was at the end of it's rotation.
>
> an apartment house near where we lived in The Bronx. A friend who was
> a Ham radio operator gave me an old control box to operate it. The
> control box put out the correct voltage to operate the motor but the
> system had no position indication. I believe they were mismatched.
> This motor had a stop switch and a small aluminum "chock" that would
> jam the motor if it tried to go further than 360 degrees. I removed
> the chock feeling that it was an unhealthy thing to do and installed
> an indicator light circuit wired to the stop switch contacts in the
> motor. The light would come on as you approached 360 degrees from
> either direction. I'm 65 years old and am still using that rotor/box
> combination. Can't say enough about Alliance equipment. Lenny
They were one of the best, along with some CDE rotor models. The
Channel Master/Radio Shack rotors were definitely lower quality. I saw
a lot that were under five years old that were just plain worn out. I
replaced a lot of AC capacitors in the CDE rotors, and worn out or
cracked ball bearings.
I had a spare U100 control box housing, and made a nice test speaker
out of it. A piece of cloth cover wire mesh for the grill over a good
quality 4" speaker, and a line transformer. A pair of DPDT switches let
me select 4/8 ohms or 25/70 volts at a half watt to service the building
wiring of school intercoms.