Pool table legs
Puckdropper at dot
Are the large dominating legs on the pool table that size for a structural
reason? Would legs the size of 4x4s hold an average pool table up just as
well, assuming they're braced properly?
I had plans to build a cabinet for our pool table, but it's not looking
like it will get done. We need better legs now, so I was thinking 4x4 or
4x6 posts would work well.
Puckdropper
--
7 balls in one shot! Time to get out the level.
RonB
Probably mostly for looks. However, a regulation sized, slate-top
pool table can be very heavy.
PDQ
In news:01315440$0$3219$c3e...@news.astraweb.com,
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> dropped this bit of wisdom:
> Just a quick question:
>
> Are the large dominating legs on the pool table that size for a
> structural reason? Would legs the size of 4x4s hold an average pool
> table up just as well, assuming they're braced properly?
>
> I had plans to build a cabinet for our pool table, but it's not
> looking like it will get done. We need better legs now, so I was
> thinking 4x4 or 4x6 posts would work well.
>
> Puckdropper
That all depends upon:
1. How big the table is. Nominal 4'X8', 5'X10', 6'X14'.
2. Of what the bed is made. Wood or Slate.
3. How thick the slate is. Nominal 1.0", 1.5", 2.0".
Big tables with thick slate need the 6X6, Medium tables can get by with 4X6 and your band box size would easily get along with 4X4.
There are, probably, very few 2" beds as they went out of favor about 100 years ago. Up to 30 years ago I could still buy the big tables. Since then, I could only get the band box size. Seems every one got a new house and wanted a pool table but nobody thought to ensure their room as made big enough to take a real table.
I got my house, made sure I had a room big enough (25 feet square) and, sure enough, they are not making any BIG tables up here. Just the band boxes. Been looking ever since.
I would not even bother trying to save a wood bed.
HTH P D Q
dpb
> Just a quick question:
>
> Are the large dominating legs on the pool table that size for a structural
> reason? Would legs the size of 4x4s hold an average pool table up just as
> well, assuming they're braced properly?
>
> I had plans to build a cabinet for our pool table, but it's not looking
> like it will get done. We need better legs now, so I was thinking 4x4 or
> 4x6 posts would work well.
They're that way because it gives them the lateral size w/o necessarily
being solid (as well as the aesthetics of course).
The load would be carried ok, the issue is _absolute_ rigidity. It
would be simpler and more effective probably to use 5/4 or thicker
pieces in a corner w/ the width at the top and tapered. Somewhat the
same idea w/o the fanciness and easy to construct.
--
PDQ
In news:62561781-8512-412f...@k17g2000yqh.googlegroups.com,
RonB <rnrb...@yahoo.com> dropped this bit of wisdom:
Found this in my history file. Sorry about the format, just knot that the standard table slate is in the 700 - 800 pound range and go from there.
P D Q
Room & Slate Size Chart
Our plans include four standard pool table sizes. While your table may fit in the room, you must also ensure you will have unobstructed play, or at least plan for obstructions up front. This decision is crucial prior to buying your slate.
In order to use the chart below, you need to know a standard pool cue is 57" long and draw length is about 6". This means you can draw the cue stick back 6" from the cushion nose when the cue ball rests against the cushion without hitting anything behind you.
Playfield + 2x(cue length + draw length) = Room Dimension
You can shave a few inches off by not allowing for as much draw length, but you may be hitting the wall unless you use a shorter cue. Finally, remember that since the playfield is between noses of the opposing cushions, the minimum room dimension is going to be larger by 2x(cushion + rails). No provision has been made in room dimensions for chairs, tables, floor cue racks, wall racks or other items which could become obstructions.
Table Play Space Finished Slate
Size Play field Size Table Size Size
7' Home 38 x 76 13'8" x 16'10" 49 x 87 45 x 83 (450 lbs)
8' Regulation 44 x 88 14'2" x 17'10" 55 x 99 51 x 95 (570 lbs)
81/2' Oversize 46 x 92 14'4" x 18'2" 57 x 103 53 x 99 (620 lbs)
Regulation
9' Tournament 50 x 100 14'8" x 18'10" 61 x 111 57 x 107 (715 lbs)
10' Snooker 56 x 112 15'2" x 19'10" 67 x 123 63 x 119 (790)
For Snooker Tables: Add 2" to each Play Space Size dimension for every 1" of cue length greater than 57".
Slate - A Short History
The slate used in our pool table plans is known as "oversized" slate. This slate is larger than older, "standard" slate so it can be bolted between the slate frame and the rails. Previously, pool table slate was bolted through the sides of the table into lead anchors or turnbuckle mechanisms. You may have noticed the pretty rosettes used to conceal the bolts? Some larger (10' and 12') tables still use standard slate. But when table weight approaches one ton, weight is no longer an issue.
Use of oversized slate has two distinct advantages: First it is constrained in a sandwich by the rail and slate frame. Designed and assembled properly, pool tables using oversized slate are the superior choice for strength and reliability. Secondly, oversized slate weighs more than standard slate. This means your table is heavier! Why is this important? Because a heavier table is sturdier. This is especially important on the smaller tables. How would you like it if you bumped your hip on the table and the balls shook or moved? This is why we recommend our customers should use 1" slate on the smaller tables (7' and 8'). Of course 1" slate must be used on larger tables. 11/2" - slate is used on 10' tables, and 2" on nearly all 12' tables (snooker and carom).
We use slate on billiards tables for a variety of reasons. Try to think of some before reading on. The first is because it is abundant. Next it can be mined, honed and lapped (flatness) inexpensively. So why do we not use granite? Easy, it doesn't have the wicking (moisture absorbing) properties of slate. Honing granite is also more expensive. Slate actually wicks moisture FROM the cloth resulting in more consistent playing conditions. Even today you sometimes hear serious players complain about "slow" tables when humidity is high. In fact slate heaters are still used in a few places, mostly in Great Britain.
So what is the best slate? Ask 100 people. About 90 will say Italian. A few will say Brazilian, and 1 may say Chinese. The slate we used on our Mission pool table is 3-piece, 11/16", doweled, Pennsylvania slate. Our opinion is it probably does not matter! Here is why: Assuming the slate is flat (correctly honed) and your house is temperature controlled, wicking is not an issue. Moreover, the Italian Slate Industry (OIS), whose members enjoy a huge market share, have (to our knowledge) never issued physical test results comparing their slate to other sources. The way we see it a business should invest to grow or retain market share. We have received business inquires from Brazil and China. We reply by requesting samples and physical test reports. We have received neither from any! It is quite possible all of these products play well. Frankly, we do not have enough information to make an informed decision nor a customer recommendation. By the way, our Pennsylvania slate plays wonderfully.
Fortunately Italian slate is plentiful and proven. In our opinion, there is none better, but the other sources may be as good. In fact, proper table assembly is more important than the origin of your slate.
----------
dpb
And, you'll probably want/need to add a bottom to spread the load
somewhat on the floor.
--
RonB
>
Many years ago, when I was a Boy Scout, our church was preparing to
demolish an old parish hall to make room for a new facility. The 100
year old building was three stories with the top floor used for
recreation and storage. The parish sold an old regulation-sized pool
table but it had to be moved to the parking lot. Our scout master saw
the opportunity for a service project and volunteered his troop to
move it down two sets of stairs, each with an intermediate landing.
We got a hand full of adults and a several 90 to 130 pound boys
together on a Saturday morning for a "little job". It took about 1
minute to realize we had bit of more than we could chew. The table
had a massive walnut body and a very thick slate top. With a great
deal of grunting (and muffled swearing.....Boy Scouts) we managed to
get it about 30 feet to the head of the stairs. That is when a dad, a
construction worker, stopped us. We were informed there was no way we
were going to put that "2,000 pound" table on the aging staircase.
The church eventually got a couple of guys to disassemble the table
and rigged up a block and tackle to lower the pieces from the upstairs
balcony. I still think, to this day, that the construction dad kept
us from turning several of us into grease streaks.
Puckdropper at dot
news:hcamo3$7o6$1...@news.eternal-september.org:
>
>
> Found this in my history file. Sorry about the format, just knot that
> the standard table slate is in the 700 - 800 pound range and go from
> there.
>
> P D Q
>
> Room & Slate Size Chart
>
Thanks PDQ. It was an interesting read. I understand a little more about
what's going on with the pool table now, and see that the legs aren't for
strength as much as they are stability.
Puckdropper
--
5 balls in one shot! Perhaps the level's warped?
Puckdropper at dot
news:hcanja$clp$2...@news.eternal-september.org:
The original legs had T nuts and 5" round disks that worked as levelers
and weight spreaders. I'll probably use something very similar (if not
the same parts--provided I can find them.)
If I went with 4x4 posts (which I have to glue up from 2x4s anyway), I
could notch out for 2x4 diagonal braces between the legs. There'd be no
chance of storage under the table, but it's not being used for that
anyway.
Puckdropper
--
All in on the break! Did somebody move the sawhorse?
Rick Samuel
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:00a220dc$0$32332$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
> dpb <no...@non.net> wrote in
> news:hcanja$clp$2...@news.eternal-september.org:
>
>> dpb wrote:
>>> Puckdropper wrote:
>>>> Just a quick question:
>>>>
>>>> Are the large dominating legs on the pool table that size for a
>>>> structural reason? Would legs the size of 4x4s hold an average pool
>>>> table up just as well, assuming they're braced properly?
>>>>
>>>> I had plans to build a cabinet for our pool table, but it's not
>>>> looking like it will get done. We need better legs now, so I was
>>>> thinking 4x4 or 4x6 posts would work well.
>>>
>>> They're that way because it gives them the lateral size w/o
>>> necessarily being solid (as well as the aesthetics of course).
>>>
>>> The load would be carried ok, the issue is _absolute_ rigidity. It
>>> would be simpler and more effective probably to use 5/4 or thicker
>>> pieces in a corner w/ the width at the top and tapered. Somewhat the
>>> same idea w/o the fanciness and easy to construct.
>>
>> And, you'll probably want/need to add a bottom to spread the load
>> somewhat on the floor.
>>
>> --
Plus people will lean, sit and so forth, on it. Some shots are a real
stretch. Now you have a side load.
Leon
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
1x1's would be sufficient to hold it up! Have you seen the drawer units
under water beds? 1/2" and 3/4" sticks are used.
Larger legs afford you the opportunity to properly brace the legs so that
there is absolutely no to very little detectable movement, especially when
you hop up on the table to take a shot or set your girl friend up there to
take a different kind of shot. ;~) With out proper rigidity the table
moves when you bump it and the balls relocate.
Mike Marlow
"PDQ" <ugo...@here.inv> wrote in message
news:hcamo3$7o6$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>
> Probably mostly for looks. However, a regulation sized, slate-top
> pool table can be very heavy.
> Found this in my history file. Sorry about the format, just knot that the
> standard table slate is in the 700 - 800 pound range > and go from there.
If by Standard, you mean Regulation, then it's more like just under 600
pounds. It is very common to find bar and home tables that are only 3/4"
slate and not full 1". This further cuts the weight. Better to figure that
most tables are going to come in around 400-600 pounds, depending on the
length and the thickness of the slate.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
skeez
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>Just a quick question:
>
>Are the large dominating legs on the pool table that size for a structural
>reason? Would legs the size of 4x4s hold an average pool table up just as
>well, assuming they're braced properly?
>
>I had plans to build a cabinet for our pool table, but it's not looking
>like it will get done. We need better legs now, so I was thinking 4x4 or
>4x6 posts would work well.
>
>Puckdropper
I have an old 40's ish Gandy table. the legs are 3/4" partical board
with veneer on them. they have a block in the top and the bottom of 2"
mahagany. 2 sides are longer to form an "L" that wraps around the
corner of the frame. this "L" is bolted to the frame on those 2 sides.
This is a comercial table that spent the first 40 years of its life in
a pool room. It is still rock solid after all these years believe it
or not! this table has a 3 piece slate top 1" thick. I would guess the
wieght to be around 800 LBS fully assembled. strength is not so much
the issue as lateral support is. you dont want the table moving
laterally. [as the pedulum swings and all that!]
skeez
Jack Stein
> Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> dropped this bit of wisdom:
>> Just a quick question:
>> Are the large dominating legs on the pool table that size for a
>> structural reason? Would legs the size of 4x4s hold an average pool
>> table up just as well, assuming they're braced properly?
4x4's are more than enough to hold up a slate. Bracing is the big
issue, you will have lots of weight going sideways when someone bumps
it. Your best bet would be to look at how commercial tables are
constructed and find a method that suits you. The internet is loaded
with info on this. The body is straight forward, basic joinery for most
tables. Nothing fancy. Here are a couple of links to give you some ideas
http://www.bestbilliard.com/resources/buildtable.cfm
http://www.kirchelconsulting.com/pooltable/
>> I had plans to build a cabinet for our pool table, but it's not
>> looking like it will get done. We need better legs now, so I was
>> thinking 4x4 or 4x6 posts would work well.
Either will work well. Regardless, you can use 2x's if constructed
correctly, or, 10x10 tree stumps will not work well if not constructed
to prevent racking and movement when bumped. I have a cheap ass table
$1000 new and when they installed it, I was amazed at how under built it
was. It plays good but don't bump the sucker. When I saw them put it
together, I knew the first time I covered it I would be rebuilding the
basic frame. It needs it now, and I keep putting it off because I don't
really feel like getting too involved (LAZY)
> That all depends upon:
> 1. How big the table is. Nominal 4'X8', 5'X10', 6'X14'.
Pool tables on the US are 3.5 x 7 (bar box) 4x8 (2 sizes) and 4.5 x 9.
5x10 and 6x12 are snooker tables found mainly in Europe and Canada.
A "regulation" table is twice as long as it is wide. 4 1/2 x9 is the
normal pro tournament size. Most league tournaments in Vegas are played
on 3 1/2 x 7' tables.
> 2. Of what the bed is made. Wood or Slate.
>
> 3. How thick the slate is. Nominal 1.0", 1.5", 2.0".
Many cheap home tables are 1/2" slate (mine). If the table is shabbily
made (mine), as in 2x4 with minimum bracing, it is probably 1/2" slate.
1" slate is common in better new tables, and thicker stuff is usually
found in high end and antique tables.
> Big tables with thick slate need the 6X6, Medium tables can get by with 4X6 and your
band box size would easily get along with 4X4.
Bar box is what I think you mean. You can look at all sorts of big and
small tables with skinny legs, French cabriole legs are common. Tables
with giant fat legs could be 3/4 boards made into a box.
> There are, probably, very few 2" beds as they went out of favor about 100 years ago.
Up to 30 years ago I could still buy the big tables. Since then, I could
only get the band box
size.
7' to 9' tables can be bought any where tables are sold in the US. The
larger Snooker tables not so much. Decent tables have 1" slate, high
end (expensive) have thicker stuff. Bar tables are generally 7' and one
piece slate. Home tables are normally 3 piece slate.
Seems every one got a new house and wanted a pool table but nobody
thought to ensure
their room as made big enough to take a real table.
> I got my house, made sure I had a room big enough (25 feet square) and, sure enough,
they are not making any BIG tables up here. Just the band boxes. Been
looking ever since.
I would not even bother trying to save a wood bed.
Where is "up here?" and what is a band box? I've never heard the term
before?
--
Jack
Got Change: The Individual =======> The Collective!
http://jbstein.com
PDQ
In news:hccj6p$7af$1...@news.eternal-september.org,
Jack Stein <jbst...@comcast.net> dropped this bit of wisdom:
<BIG SNIP>
>
>> I got my house, made sure I had a room big enough (25 feet square)
>> and, sure enough,
> they are not making any BIG tables up here. Just the band boxes.
> Been looking ever since.
> I would not even bother trying to save a wood bed.
>
> Where is "up here?" and what is a band box? I've never heard the
> term before?
"Up Here" -- Kanukistan.
"Band Box" usually refers to some item whgich is too small to permit enjoyable usage.
As I see it, no table under nominal 5'X10' is big enough to permit enjoyable useage.
Did you ever notice that the Yankees shortened the cues to go along with the smaller tables and even usurped the name "Billiards" to refer to the game of "9Ball"?
My intro to pool was billiards and snooker on the big 14 foot tables. The "Band Box" did not appear until small bars tried to permit some sporting by getting sub-standard sized tables with coin machines incorporated. The 4'X8' tables were reserved for "Bang Ball" aka "Rotation", "Spots&Stripes", "9Ball" and "Golf". Snooker and Pocket Billiards were concidered "The only proper pool games". I only ever played true Billiards (no pockets in the table) once. This is the game that illustrates true "Cuemanship".
P D Q
Puckdropper at dot
news:hccj6p$7af$1...@news.eternal-september.org:
> PDQ wrote:
>
>> Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> dropped this bit of
>> wisdom:
>>> Just a quick question:
>
>>> Are the large dominating legs on the pool table that size for a
>>> structural reason? Would legs the size of 4x4s hold an average pool
>>> table up just as well, assuming they're braced properly?
>
> 4x4's are more than enough to hold up a slate. Bracing is the big
> issue, you will have lots of weight going sideways when someone bumps
> it. Your best bet would be to look at how commercial tables are
> constructed and find a method that suits you. The internet is loaded
> with info on this. The body is straight forward, basic joinery for
> most tables. Nothing fancy. Here are a couple of links to give you
> some ideas
>
> http://www.bestbilliard.com/resources/buildtable.cfm
> http://www.kirchelconsulting.com/pooltable/
I've done some internet searching, but all that showed me was 4 legs, one
in each corner. Massive looking things, too. I guess that's the popular
style now.
>
>>> I had plans to build a cabinet for our pool table, but it's not
>>> looking like it will get done. We need better legs now, so I was
>>> thinking 4x4 or 4x6 posts would work well.
>
> Either will work well. Regardless, you can use 2x's if constructed
> correctly, or, 10x10 tree stumps will not work well if not constructed
> to prevent racking and movement when bumped. I have a cheap ass table
> $1000 new and when they installed it, I was amazed at how under built
> it was. It plays good but don't bump the sucker. When I saw them put
> it together, I knew the first time I covered it I would be rebuilding
> the basic frame. It needs it now, and I keep putting it off because I
> don't really feel like getting too involved (LAZY)
>
*snip*
I've got an idea on how to build the legs quickly, inexpensively, and
relatively easily. I might run in to some problems mortising for the
braces, but that's simply lack of experience.
When the table eventually fails or gets replaced, I'll keep the legs and
put some other table on top!
Puckdropper
--
This is playing great! Wait... Who replaced my saw horses with cinder
block?
Lew Hodgett
"PDQ" wrote:
=====================================
"Up Here" -- Kanukistan.
"Band Box" usually refers to some item whgich is too small to permit
enjoyable usage.
As I see it, no table under nominal 5'X10' is big enough to permit
enjoyable useage.
Did you ever notice that the Yankees shortened the cues to go along
with the smaller tables and even usurped the name "Billiards" to refer
to the game of "9Ball"?
My intro to pool was billiards and snooker on the big 14 foot tables.
The "Band Box" did not appear until small bars tried to permit some
sporting by getting sub-standard sized tables with coin machines
incorporated. The 4'X8' tables were reserved for "Bang Ball" aka
"Rotation", "Spots&Stripes", "9Ball" and "Golf". Snooker and Pocket
Billiards were concidered "The only proper pool games". I only ever
played true Billiards (no pockets in the table) once. This is the
game that illustrates true "Cuemanship".
=================================
My dad was a money player in his youth.
Spent many hours with him, bent over the green felt with a cue in my
hand, learning either 3 cushion billiards or either straight pool or
cribbage (Any 2 balls that added up to 15) on a pool table.
Snooker came later.
Up until I was at least 16, he would spot me 40 in a 50 ball game of
straight, then whip by butt by running the table in 2-3 turns.
Finally beat him when he started wearing glasses and his sharp
eyesight was so sharp any more.
He used to refer to the "Bang Ball" games above as "Slop" games, IOW,
no skill required.
Lew
PDQ
In news:0065f672$0$23486$c3e...@news.astraweb.com,
Lew Hodgett <sail...@verizon.net> dropped this bit of wisdom:
Seems we spent a similar childhood.
I also ken how the eyes betray one with age.
WSould that I/we were 20 again.
P D Q
Lew Hodgett
"PDQ" wrote:
------------------------------------------------
Seems we spent a similar childhood.
I also ken how the eyes betray one with age.
WSould that I/we were 20 again.
Cleaned out mom's place last year and found my dad's 20 OZ cue hanging
by a tip clamp in the closet.
Hadn't been used since 1959 or maybe even earlier.
Mom told me she bought that cue from a local doctor for $3 and gave it
to my dad about 1938-1940 time frame.
Found a home for it.
My shooting days are long gone.
Could not handle the frustration of not being able to do what I once
did with ease.
Time moves on.
Lew
J. Clarke
Just a comment but did you ever see a movie called "The Color of Money", the
sequel of sorts to "The Hustler"? If you haven't you might want to give it
a watch (if you haven't seen "The Hustler" you might enjoy that one
too)--when you have you'll know what reminded me of it.
>
> P D Q
ups...@teksavvy.com
<jclarke...@cox.net> wrote:
>Just a comment but did you ever see a movie called "The Color of Money", the
>sequel of sorts to "The Hustler"? If you haven't you might want to give it
>a watch (if you haven't seen "The Hustler" you might enjoy that one
>too)--when you have you'll know what reminded me of it.
Two dated, but very good movies. The Color of Money is a continuation
of the movie The Hustler where Fast Eddie Felson (Paul Newman) finally
wins against Minnesota fats, (Jackie Gleason). Fast Eddie then goes
into self exile. The Color of Money is where Fast Eddie starts playing
pool again a number of years later.
One really needs to see both movies to get a sense of the story.
Lew Hodgett
"J. Clarke" wrote:
> Just a comment but did you ever see a movie called "The Color of
> Money"
(Paul Newman and Tom Cruise)
, the
> sequel of sorts to "The Hustler"?
(Jackie Gleason and Paul Newman)
Lew
LDosser
news:4ruke51h28mgrfr4j...@4ax.com...
The sequel was diminished by Cruise.
ups...@teksavvy.com
wrote:
>>>sequel of sorts to "The Hustler"? If you haven't you might want to give
>The sequel was diminished by Cruise.
No unexpected. While some of his action movies have been passable, I
have yet to see him excel with serious drama.
Jack Stein
>
> In news:hccj6p$7af$1...@news.eternal-september.org,
> Jack Stein <jbst...@comcast.net> dropped this bit of wisdom:
> <BIG SNIP>
>>> I got my house, made sure I had a room big enough (25 feet square)
>>> and, sure enough,
>> they are not making any BIG tables up here. Just the band boxes.
>> Been looking ever since.
>> I would not even bother trying to save a wood bed.
>>
>> Where is "up here?" and what is a band box? I've never heard the
>> term before?
>
> "Up Here" -- Kanukistan.
That's in Kanada right?
> "Band Box" usually refers to some item whgich is too small to permit enjoyable usage.
Down here, in the USSA, many bars have 7' tables, and they are generally
called Bar Boxes. Where I live, most bars have 8' tables. In my
lifetime, I don't recall ever seeing a table larger than 9'.
> As I see it, no table under nominal 5'X10' is big enough to permit enjoyable useage.
> Did you ever notice that the Yankees shortened the cues to go along with the smaller tables
and even usurped the name "Billiards" to refer to the game of "9Ball"?
There is some confusion down here regarding Billiards. Billiards refers
to all cue sports. There is pocket billiards, known as pool, and carom
billiards. Both pocket billiards and non-pocket billiards fall under
billiards. Many think only pocketless billiards is billiards. The term
has been abused and confused the world over. In the USSA, 9 ball is
always considered pool. Some people don't think it is billiards, usually
by those who never heard of 3Cushion or other carom sports.
> My intro to pool was billiards and snooker on the big 14 foot tables. The "Band Box" did not
> appear until small bars tried to permit some sporting by getting
sub-standard sized tables
> with coin machines incorporated. The 4'X8' tables were reserved for
"Bang Ball" aka
>Rotation", "Spots&Stripes", "9Ball" and "Golf". Snooker and Pocket
Billiards were concidered
>"The only proper pool games". I only ever played true Billiards (no
pockets in the table) once.
> This is the game that illustrates true "Cuemanship".
3C is no more a billiards sport than any other cue sport. As far as
Cuemanship, all cue sports require true cuemanship to excel. Generally
though, only 3C players get snobby about it:-)
I would need binoculars to see the end of a 14' table. I started out
on 9' tables and still enjoy them, but my eyes prefer 7'.
--
Jack
Got Change: USA =====> USSA!
http://jbstein.com
Jack Stein
> Jack Stein wrote in
>> 4x4's are more than enough to hold up a slate. Bracing is the big
>> issue, you will have lots of weight going sideways when someone bumps
>> it. Your best bet would be to look at how commercial tables are
>> constructed and find a method that suits you. The internet is loaded
>> with info on this. The body is straight forward, basic joinery for
>> most tables. Nothing fancy. Here are a couple of links to give you
>> some ideas
>>
>> http://www.bestbilliard.com/resources/buildtable.cfm
>> http://www.kirchelconsulting.com/pooltable/
>
> I've done some internet searching, but all that showed me was 4 legs, one
> in each corner. Massive looking things, too. I guess that's the popular
> style now.
I guess you didn't look at the two links I listed above. One uses a
simple box style leg that only looks massive, and the other is a
cabriole leg, not massive. Both links are for building your own table,
and have ample pictures of how they do the legs.
If you go to my web page, under Billiards, you will find links to about
40 sites for pool tables, and about every one has pictures of tables
with both massive looking, and non-massive looking legs.
--
Jack
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