Dovetail log house

[Michael]

This is cool.

http://logdovetailjig.com/cutting_dovetail_notches.html

[DerbyDad03]

On Friday, September 9, 2016 at 12:15:05 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
> This is cool.
>
> http://logdovetailjig.com/cutting_dovetail_notches.html

"When you buy the plans, they include complete instructions both for
building the jigs and for using them to cut accurate notches."

I'm imagining one single instruction in the chapter on using the jig:

"Don't cut the jig."

;-)

[Eli the Bearded]

Nah, it has a bit more than that. There's some sort of slider / guide on
the bar of the chainsaw so that you don't cut the jig. (Unless you cut
too far, I guess.)

Elijah
------
probably a small shim

[Sonny]

On Friday, September 9, 2016 at 4:06:08 PM UTC-5, Eli the Bearded wrote:

> > I'm imagining one single instruction in the chapter on using the jig:
> >
> > "Don't cut the jig."
>
> Nah, it has a bit more than that. There's some sort of slider / guide on
> the bar of the chainsaw so that you don't cut the jig. (Unless you cut
> too far, I guess.)

The finished cuts, for assembly, are smooth. A chainsaw cut is not smooth. You probably stop short, with the chainsaw cut, then finish smoothening with.... a chisel and/or hand plane? If someone is going to build their own log house, that way, I'd suppose they'd have other (dedicated) tools available, as well.

In the third pic (step 3), it doesn't appear he's following the jig's edge exactly. A second cut, along the jig's edge, would likely result in having a ridge, I think.

Sonny

[Sonny]

On Friday, September 9, 2016 at 4:40:06 PM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

> The finished cuts, for assembly, are smooth. A chainsaw cut is not smooth. You probably stop short, with the chainsaw cut, then finish smoothening with.... a chisel and/or hand plane? If someone is going to build their own log house, that way, I'd suppose they'd have other (dedicated) tools available, as well.
>
> In the third pic (step 3), it doesn't appear he's following the jig's edge exactly. A second cut, along the jig's edge, would likely result in having a ridge, I think.
>

The videos show a cleanup (smoothening) procedure.... the saw guides assist with that, too.
http://logdovetailjig.com/index.html

Sonny

[DerbyDad03]

(pssst...it was a joke)

[John McCoy]

Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> wrote in
news:4d2edb6d-d97d-475e...@googlegroups.com:

> The finished cuts, for assembly, are smooth. A chainsaw cut is not
> smooth.

Why do they need to be smooth? In pioneer days, they would
make those cuts with an ax (by eye, to boot) - a good axeman
could get a pretty clean cut, but it wouldn't be smooth like
a plane or chisel cut.

John

[John Grossbohlin]

"Michael" wrote in message
news:2816a4ff-dbaf-4e75...@googlegroups.com...

>This is cool.

>http://logdovetailjig.com/cutting_dovetail_notches.html

I'd like to see some half-blind and full-blind dovetails thrown in for
show... ;~)

[Sonny]

On Saturday, September 10, 2016 at 8:53:57 AM UTC-5, John McCoy wrote:
> Sonny

>
> > The finished cuts, for assembly, are smooth. A chainsaw cut is not
> > smooth.
>
> Why do they need to be smooth? In pioneer days, they would
> make those cuts with an ax (by eye, to boot) - a good axeman
> could get a pretty clean cut, but it wouldn't be smooth like
> a plane or chisel cut.
>
> John

Yeah, that's what I get for thinking (incorrectly) out loud. My experience with chainsaws are pretty much limited to something like firewood-ends smoothness. The pics seemed to show final results as being pretty smooth mating surfaces, so I assumed something else was warranted. One of those videos showed how to get fairly smooth, smooth enough, surfaces.

Another problem is that my saw's chain is probably not always as sharp as their saw's.

On a related "smoothness" note, maybe my thinking is influenced by my latest project. Some time ago, I offered someone, here, some walnut & camelia rootball stock, for turning. I, later, inspected the camelia rootball and discovered some defects, not good turning. I decided to make a dining table centerpiece, for the latest cypress trestle table, by gouging/carving out the bowl with the chainsaw. Subsequent hand sanding is proving to be a labor intensive task, not fun, at all. I'm sick of trying to smoothen chainsaw marks, but it's getting there. *The recent cypress bench project (pics) are for the cypress dining set, as well.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/?

A camelia is a smallish lawn tree/shrub, average about 12'-15' tall. A flowering plant - red, pink and/or white flowers.

Sonny

[John McCoy]

"John Grossbohlin" <nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:F66dnWMs36sviUnK...@earthlink.com:

You'd be amazed at some of the joints medieval carpenters
used in timber framing. Take a look at the illustration
on page 25 (*) of this document:

http://www.buildingarchaeology.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Structural-
Carpentry-Hewett.pdf

The style and complexity of the joints used is a major
factor in dating old buildings in the UK - joints started
as simple laps, became progressively more complex into
the late 1300s/early 1400s, and then simplified again as
brick construction became more common, and the old skills
were lost.

John

(* page 25 of the pdf, page 264 of the book it was
extracted from)

[OFWW]

On Fri, 9 Sep 2016 14:56:08 -0700 (PDT), Sonny <cedar...@aol.com>
wrote:

Sonny, I have to say I just love your shop. To be a kid and hanging
out there with all the stuff around, and even as an adult wondering
just what kind of treasures lurk in the dark corners or covered up
somewhere.

It brings back memories for me and would make a great background for
some TV wood working show.

Must be a lot of memories lurking there.

Sorry for the intrusion, but I just had to say it.

[Sonny]

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 7:28:13 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

> Sonny, I have to say I just love your shop. To be a kid and hanging
> out there with all the stuff around, and even as an adult wondering
> just what kind of treasures lurk in the dark corners or covered up
> somewhere.
>
> It brings back memories for me and would make a great background for
> some TV wood working show.
>
> Must be a lot of memories lurking there.
>
> Sorry for the intrusion, but I just had to say it.

Thanks. It is a fun place to hang out, also, more so now that I have a frig in there. The place needs major decluttering and cleaning, though. I have remnant scraps scattered about and a few half-projects in the works.

There's an outside overhang area that's a wood storage area. That needs decluttering, also. At the moment, the whole place looks kinna trashy and disorganized. I have an older (original) shop and it's, essentially, been abandoned (other than storage), partially because of clutter.

I don't have children, so no grands, either, but the nephews' and nieces' children enjoy coming over, especially to help clean up.... for $20 a pop. There's a few assorted projects of theirs, also, that they've forgotten to take home, like a "Z" (some "chest"(?) emblem/insignia of some cartoon/TV character he likes), a crucifix made for another's mother, and left over construction materials for making a forge (frame, firebox), to name a few.

Additionally, there are some major plans in the works, as I've bought a new telescope. I need to rebuild parts of the area (originally a hand tool shop) behind/attached to my home's garage, to accommodate the telescope and to accommodate its loading, for going/viewing at the camp. The present doors (front & back), in this area, are 40" wide. The scopes footprint/mobile base is 53" wide. The kids are anxious for this telescope venture, also.

So, yeah, the shop is a fun place to hang out and to dream-up some other useful projects, as well. I would suppose project ideas come in at a rate of 1 every 2-3 weeks, though not all get off the ground. It's fun to "dream", also.... especially when you test/ask the kids how they would plan/initiate/what supplies/etc. the building of their idea, and, in the process, learn the tools, safety, etc.

I rarely build anything for myself, anymore. Most projects are for someone else's benefit or pleasure, in some way. It's the construction I enjoy....and their visiting, when they (kids) come over and "supervise" the construction of *their project.

Sonny

[OFWW]

On Tue, 18 Oct 2016 04:48:22 -0700 (PDT), Sonny <cedar...@aol.com>
wrote:

Awesome! Thanks for sharing, it would be worth cleaning up for free or
for finding a lost "jewel" in there.

Take some pictures of the scope setup to share, nice to have a full
life like that.

[Sonny]

On Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at 12:06:14 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

> Take some pictures of the scope setup to share, nice to have a full
> life like that.

Just got the scope 2 weeks ago and it needs to be assembled outdoors or in an area accessible through a larger doorway, than I presently have.... meaning, out of the house.

Here's a view of it, from Meades website:
http://www.meade.com/lx850-acf-14-f-8.html

The Wheeley Bars (mobile base) is the Large Size Universal, the "Custom" model with the six 10" wheels: http://www.jimsmobile.com/buy_wheeley_bars.htm

I also need to install some AC/heat in the (previously) hand-tool shop area, as that's where the scope will be stored.

I always take pics of stuff.

Sonny

[OFWW]

On Tue, 18 Oct 2016 10:32:53 -0700 (PDT), Sonny <cedar...@aol.com>
wrote:

WHOA! Sure beats the crap out of my scope. Auto GPS positioning and
location finder for your scope? Out of sight!

Possibilities unlimited, with a WIFI Camera, everyone can see what's
going on with the big screen TV at the same time.

Have Fun! By the time I drag mine outside, set up the 3way leveling
and find a certain object to calibrate my location it is darn near
sunup, lol.